Knitting a Victorian Shetland Lace Scarf Pattern (in 2020) - A 144-year old Mystery Scarf

Pattern now available on Ravelry! ravel.me/shetland-lace-myster...
The Victorian Shetland Lace Shawl, or Wedding Ring Shawl, is an iconic part of knitting lore. The more practical scarf, less so.
The Victorian and Edwardian era(s) have seen a surge of popularity on costube recently. While everyone else is sewing corsets and combinations, I've been knitting a scarf. The Victorian Shawl is fairly well known, in both knitted and woven varieties, but scarves seem a more practical garment, meant for both prestige and warmth.
I found myself wandering through the Richard Rutt Collection on the University of Southampton's knitting archive. I found myself intrigued by a scarf pattern in a book attributed only to "A Lady".
Could this be a pirated or missing Frances Lambert or Jane Gaugain pattern? Or could this be a traditional pattern contributed by a local knitter?
I picked up my Addi Turbo needles and a skein of silk/wool blend, and determined to find out for myself.
Along the way, I found myself wondering...just who is this scarf meant for? And what does knitting have to do with Gilbert and Sullivan, and Courtney Love? The answer might surprise you!
Bibiliography:
Lovick, Elizabeth. The Same, but Different: Shetland Lace in a European Context. KBTH Lace Virtual Conference, March 2006
www.knittingbeyondthehebrides....
Lady, A. The Home Knitter: A Manual For Making Useful Articles for the Family. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter, & Co, 1876
archive.org/details/krl003763...
Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006.
www.amazon.ca/Victorian-Lace-...
“The Richard Rutt Collection.” In the Loop - Knitting Collections, University of Southampton
www.southampton.ac.uk/inthelo...
Sources for tracking pattern authorship & notes on IP piracy in the arts:
Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006.
Knitting terms developed by Jane Gaugain: Page 15
Diamond Border Pattern by Jane Gaugain: Page 37
Piracy of Frances Lambert's intellectual property: Page 41
www.amazon.ca/Victorian-Lace-...
Gilbert & Sullivan IP piracy (via Wikipedia page linked below)
Rosen, Zvi S. The Twilight of the Opera Pirates: A Prehistory of the Right of Public Performance for Musical Compositions. Cardozo Arts & Entertainment Law Journal, Vol. 24, 2007, accessed 21 May 2007. See also Prestige, Colin. "D'Oyly Carte and the Pirates", a paper presented at the International Conference of G&S held at the University of Kansas, May 1970
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilbert...
Love, Courtney, “Courtney Love does the math.” Salon. June 14, 2000. www.salon.com/2000/06/14/love_7/
Misc Image Sources:
Kendrick, C. - www.loc.gov/pictures/item/var..., Public Domain, commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Andrea Fleming - Courtney Love, CC BY 2.0, commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Sidney Paget (died 1908) - www.artintheblood.com/twis/twi..., Public Domain, commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
David Shankbone - flickr, CC BY 2.0, commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
NASA/JPL-Caltech - NASA, Public Domain, commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Music:
Butterflies in Love - Sir Cubworth
C Major Prelude - Bach
Two of Us - Saidbysed
Sangria - Saidbysed
Dancing Star - Aakash Gandhi
Divine Life Society - Jesse Gallagher
Kiss the Sky - Aakash Gandhi
🎥 Socials and more:👇🏼
stringchronicity.net/linkables/
#knitting #historic #shetland #scarf #pattern

[@louisacapell]

Pretentious? No, I don't think so. Knitting , crocheting and sewing for charitable causes is all some elderly ladies I know are able to do and it brings them joy and they feel useful. And they are! They're treasures.

[@eddavanleemputten9232]

I don’t think it’s pretentious either. A few years ago I heard one of the hardest things for homeless people to get is good, warm socks. I had a yarn stash explosion and needed to de-stash. Despite not being fond of knitting socks at all (childhood trauma from horrible sewing and needlework classes) I decided to knit as many pairs of socks I could. Then I went to every place I knew I could find homeless men and women trying to warm up a bit… and asked who wanted new, warm socks. Those socks were gone in minutes and the amount of heartfelt thanks I got was… close to uncomfortable. I’s knitted those socks to get rid of unwanted yarn. It was, in a way, self serving. Little did I realise the impact it would have. I still don’t like knitting socks. But I definitely know the value they can have. And if I need to de-stash again, I’ll find projects to make someone happy with something warm and cozy to comfort them. It’s not much but it makes a difference. It really does,

[@debbiewilliams2946]

I can imagine it knitted in white and worn wapped around the neck with the ends crossed in front and pinned with a brooch. Like a jabot.

[@MaireColclough]

I've had a very similar mental picture. 😃

[@turtle4llama]

I audibly gasped at 1000 meters of 50/50 silk and wool lace weight. To die for.

[@MaireColclough]

This is why we stash in the good years. So we can use our hoard in the lean ones 😉 I still have plenty left for a small shawl, so I'm saving it back until the right project beckons...

[@Padraigp]

@@MaireColclough i watched a thing about gossamer shawls on I think the shetland islands...some UK island where they sounded dutch...they had 6 miles of gossamer yarn in each shawl. Mind blowing. If i can find it ill post a link. everyone here will like it

[@eddavanleemputten9232]

@@MaireColclough - That’s part of the reason why I started spinning: making the good stuff myself means I’ve got more budget for it. Fibre costs less than yarn. For anyone considering it, a new spinning wheel can be a big investment but “new” can mean “new-to-me”. My time doesn’t cost me anything and spinning is fun. It gives me the yarn I want. It took practice but I’m spinning lace weight now.

[@shelleythompson2049]

FYI: when purchasing new knitting needles check out your local op shops and hospice shops. Us old ladies die all the time and our collections of needles end up somewhere. My last 5 sets of circulars have cost $1 each at a hospice shop.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

As one of those “weak and feeble invalids” I can confirm that making things for others does indeed make me feel better… though I’m not so keen on the wording. Wow. Also, I know this is an old video, but I’ll admit to avoiding your (and others’) knitting content because I knew if I started watching historical knitting content, then I’d want to pick it up, and I already have enough fibre arts, darn it! (Pun not intended). But I’m sure you can guess that I fell to the dark side, seeing as I’m commenting on such a knitting video. I need more storage. Thankfully embroidery floss doesn’t take up too much space ( and especially not when wound onto cards and put into those very handy storage boxes). I can’t say the same for my epic fabric collection, and my not-yet-epic but I’m sure it will get there yarn collection. Whoops. But I made myself a pair of fingerless mitts as a first try it out and see how I like it project, and I think I’m hooked now. Especially because, as the pretentious “A Lady” pointed out, knitting is something (some) disabled people can do. Much like hand sewing, and hand embroidery, knitting is something I can do in bed, and it’s really wonderful to be able to make something, and be able to make things for other people.

[@elliegreen872]

Love the humour, glad the algorithm recommended this, hope your channel keeps going.

[@francestsoukalidis8401]

Hello from Australia. Was very entertained by your skills and your humourous presentation. Last week,.I found Shetland Wool Week on KZbin which showed some knitters from the 1950s. Their test for a scarf/shawl was to pas it through a wedding ring to test it's fineness. Perhaps you have seen them.

[@MaireColclough]

I have! And this scarf definitely would pass that test 😃

[@norahfitzcharles1957]

I don’t think the ‘lady’ was being pretentious. She spoke in the language of her time and culture which may sound odd to those of us more used to hearing ‘globalised’ English What she did do is supported her contemporaries by providing them with an outlet for their creativity and desire to help those less fortunate. She also provided us with a fascinating insight into womens’ lives in 19th century Edinburgh

[@farasanchez2618]

I love this scarf ! I am presently doing it in some sock yarn from my stash not sure if I’ll have enough for a scarf so it may be a table runner of sorts. Just bought fingering yarn and can’t wait to start. Thank you so much for this look back in time.

[@imalikconnor]

I don't use straight needles either. I'm always losing one of them. I never lose the second needle on my circular needles.

[@jackiejames4551]

It's a lovely scarf, I especially like the diamond pattern. Thanks for taking us along on your knitting adventure.

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you so much! I'm quite partial to the diamond pattern, myself 😃

[@knitwit014]

I have a pile of early 1900 crochet books. I need to pull those out again.

[@MaireColclough]

UPDATE: Pattern is now available on Ravelry! ravel.me/shetland-lace-mystery-scarf-from-1876 This was definitely a fun project, and I feel very lucky to have found a pattern that was so easy to work up. If there's enough interest, I may chart out the pattern and upload it to Ravelry so other knitters can enjoy this delightful little piece of 1800's Shetland Lace.

[@robinveldhoen8528]

And why should I pay the price for JJ's story sins?

[@MaireColclough]

Oh, you know that whole "Mystery Box" thing was overplayed. Besides...it's the phrase that's in timeout, not you 😄

[@ying-shijie]

I'll learn how to read a chart just to knit this, you watch me 😤😅

[@HandcraftedbyRLS]

Food for thought. First loved this video, thank you and you have a new subscriber. Second with reference to "A Lady" , did you know that in her later years ( and in 1876 she would have been reigning for almost 50) Victoria was a knitter, a darner or socks, and modestly loved that which made her feel like a housewife and not just a queen. Just a thought.

[@cheskydivision]

I know this is a couple years old but there is a great video about Shetland shawls and how they are made. I believe it was from 1964. It was very interesting.

[@melaniehellum1281]

Love it one day I will be able to do such knitting. Am spinning some Marino and silk blend on my supported drop spindle so exiting to see this project lovely.

[@HandyHelons]

Wow. Stunning work! I’m terrible about blocking, but this just shows how important it is! It’s just beautiful.

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you! I'm really pleased with how it turned out 😃

[@nicoletinker8081]

There are a lot of good crochet items on that site too. Thanks

[@susanmyrawills]

Just found you and subscribed. Enjoyed your humor! thanks

[@gardenlove2782]

Great detective work and well put together posting! And such a fine lace!

[@barbarawolf4168]

Thank you for your video. This is the first time I saw one of your videos and my first thought when seeing how it knitted up was that it would be a nice dresser or livingroom table scarf. It looks really beautiful.

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you!

[@carlytasmith5754]

I knitted 3 Victorian lace doilies from patterns in Piecework magazine. The fun part was figuring out what the Victorian abbreviations meant and how to interpret them in my knitting. They came out very nice🧶

[@catherinemelnyk]

There's a lady in, I believe North Dakota who sells very old knitting patterns both on eBay and Etsy. It's a long German name, something like Schmetterling or something like that. I doubt they've been updated.

[@christenagervais7303]

What a fantastic video! The scarf turned out beautifully and the history lesson was enjoyed! Hi from Ottawa!

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you so much!

[@laurenmiller3886]

I loved your video, as well as your sense of humor🤗 This was my first time watching one of your videos and I am now a subscriber. Great knitting job btw 🤗

[@thedoctor5991]

Haha, glad you acknowledged the fact that many people just refer to the hooks and needles in 'mm' instead of the confusing UK and US numbers/letters!!

[@MaireColclough]

I find mm is a little more precise 😃

[@TealCheetah]

Your editing has already imrpooved so much in your more recent vids!

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you! 😃

[@christenagervais7303]

You have a very interesting way of knitting. I've never seen that way done before!

[@MaireColclough]

It works for me...I guess that's the important part 😃👍

[@christenagervais7303]

@@MaireColclough As with any craft, whatever works best for you! Your work is beautiful.

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you very much! 💜

[@MrsSweetpeach]

@@MaireColclough Does your knitting technique have a name? I knit continental, but your way looks quite ergonomic and I'm interested in giving it a try.

[@MaireColclough]

@@MrsSweetpeach It's the lever knitting style used by Stephanie Pearl-McPhee (The Yarn Harlot). I just use circular needles rather than DPNs and long needles. :)

[@minjenra]

Absolutely loved this. Thank you for making it and please feel free to add the chart. Stay safe.

[@MaireColclough]

A little late, but getting caught up on some outstanding comments...the pattern is now available on Ravelry, if you're interested. Link in the description 😃

[@kateanderson6]

Hey, thank you from New Zealand, I really like you style of commentry. Thanks again, Kate

[@elizabethraworth64]

Just found your channel ! So now binge watching while I organize my craft corner.

[@spiritwaterwolf]

I'm so happy to have just found this video. I've been knitting for quite some time, but because I favour my left hand, learning from family members was challenging. I found lever knitting worked best for me, and also found it caused less irritation with my arthritis... Then came the circular needles that as you mentioned, more comfortable to work with..... I'm now having a great time knitting, and wanting to learn to read vintage or older patterns. Thanks so much for sharing ☺️

[@MaireColclough]

You are so welcome! 😃

[@personalexperience3637]

What is 'lever knitting?

[@spiritwaterwolf]

@@personalexperience3637 lever knitting is where 1 main needle is used in loading the stiches on. Another term used is also Irish style cottage knitting. Traditionally it was 1 long needle positioned under the arm while the other needle did the work loading the new stitch onto the stationary needle. it's better understood if to be seen, and I am sure there are some video references on KZbin. instead of using a long stationary needle positioned under the arm, I have found the circular needle can keep a stable position, where one hand works the yarn and the other the needle. Again, I am sure that there are some video resources available on KZbin. 😊

[@merindymorgenson3184]

Beautiful scarf! The first part looks crocheted!

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you! It's 100% knit, but it's designed quite cleverly. 😀

[@dawnchesney-turner9602]

Just happened to accidentally access your video - REALLY enjoying all aspects of your work and commentary!

[@gglaurengg]

This is such a great video! I’m inspired to find an old pattern without a picture and knit it. : )

[@MaireColclough]

Definitely give it a try! 😃

[@ying-shijie]

This is absolutely stunning. I'm awed by your patience and skill in figuring this out! Do you share the patterns anywhere with your updates and recommendations? I understand you must have put in lots of time and research so I could understand not wanting to go through the process of translation and sharing it as a free pattern but I thought I'd try my luck and ask? It really is stunning, I'm absolutely in love with knitting lace but am too inexperienced to tackle the old patterns I've found without inevitably tearing it apart before I tear my hair out instead! Either way, definitely subscribing and thank you so much for this video!!

[@MaireColclough]

Hello and thank you! I'm working on the pattern - it's just a matter of making a few spare moments to get it done. Thankfully, most of the notes I need jog my memory are in the video 😄

[@ying-shijie]

@@MaireColclough oh bless you and all your ancestors. May your yarn never tangle and your stitches never slip 💜

[@MaireColclough]

I could use good wishes like that...thank you! 😄 💜

[@gailcullinan349]

Wonderful video, I have learnt so much. Thank you

[@Jennifer-jn2gv]

Your scarf turned out very nicely. I'm enjoying your podcasts, thanks for taking the time to share your knitting adventures. Perhaps a little set of writers using the leftover yarn although you didn't say you were looking for suggestions. Greetings from Tasmania ☺️

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you so much! As it turns out, I only used about a quarter of the skein, so I think I may try to squeak out another medium-sized shawl out of it later 😀

[@elliegreen872]

Thanks for this,loved the video.

[@br6480]

Hipster bait😂😂😂 Beautiful pattern.

[@heatherelise327]

Excuse me, I had to go and be sick from the intro to that book. By which I mean, sick from how LUCKY I feel to get to spend my "spare time" knitting people socks. Ugh. That aside, your project was lovely 🙂 well done- I am an amateur knitter at best, and I definitely need a visual reference to be able to follow a complicated pattern! That you could do something so advanced without knowing what it was is pretty rad.

[@MaireColclough]

Aw, thanks. This was actually a pretty easy pattern to follow. At some point I'll make the time to translate the pattern with my changes so others can make their own pretty little thing. (And yes, that intro was just way too much. So much too much, it hurts) ;)

[@resourcedragon]

@@MaireColclough: I thought you did a very good job of reading it out aloud!

[@resourcedragon]

Quick note regarding old UK needle sizes and US customers. For the US customer, if you've had anything to do with stretching piercings, the needle sizes are the same as those gauges.

[@Darvit_Nu]

This was a very interesting video to watch! I love to knit, crochet, tunisian crochet & Nalbind beautiful functional items for loved ones to wear or use. I really enjoyed listening to the background historical information very much :) Liked & subscribed! ^_^

[@rebeccarisk1772]

I enjoyed this, thank you for sharing

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoyed it 😀

[@roxannlegg750]

I am in awe of this type of knitting..youre very talented!

[@MaireColclough]

Knitting lace is just making holes in your knitting. I just figured out the directions and used a magnifier lamp to see the stitches 😉

[@roxannlegg750]

@@MaireColclough Oh - i can make holes in my knitting well enough...just not in the right places, nor where i want them nor the right size!!! MY HOLES APPEAR AT RANDOM ROTFLMHO :-) It s my one needlework achilles heel. For now - the Dr Who scarfe for hubbie will have to suffice. He told me that holes at random were going to be screen accurate! LOL Methinks i shall still to dressmaking , millinery and embroidery.!

[@MaireColclough]

@@roxannlegg750 He's not wrong about the Dr. Who scarf...it's definitely a forgiving (if long and somewhat tedious) pattern ;) Oooo...Millinery! I like hats :D

[@roxannlegg750]

@@MaireColclough Oh aparantly fighting cybermen and daleks took its toll on the scarfe HAAA. I have researched it al LOT and will have made three by April. ANd yes - hats are wonderful, bonnet making and hat making is underrated and under represented in historical costuming episdoes. Maybe i should correct that!

[@MaireColclough]

@@roxannlegg750 You're one up on me re: the scarf. Somehow, I don't feel the need to compete by knitting two more ;) (and yes, hat making is very much under-represented!)

[@AwesomeReversibleKnitting]

Great video, thank you!

[@Norfolk250]

0:01:54 I just had a RuPaul moment reading the symbols in the left of that description page --- wonder if that all added-up to a valid-back-when saying or word! HA!!

[@steffirossmann1168]

Amazing thank you

[@isabellaholden8997]

Fascinating. Thanks for sharing this interesting project.🇿🇦😷👍🙏

[@MaireColclough]

Glad you enjoyed it! 😃

[@yasmingeorge5173]

Its beautiful, I wish I could create something like that.

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you very much! It's definitely possible to create a scarf like this. The pattern(s) are available online, and if you're not a knitter, now's a great time to learn 😃

[@mariawhite7337]

"I'm sure I messed up... and that's fine!" THANK YOU. Finally someone who understands my struggle!

[@catherinemelnyk]

2.0mm is usually what I use for making socks.

[@angellinafosse1936]

How do you get your bangs to look so good?

[@MaireColclough]

100% pure luck. 😄

[@TealCheetah]

Basket cat!

[@TheGabygael]

Archive.org is a reeeeally deep rabbit hole that goes straight to wonderland (geez what a cheesy comment i just wrote )

[@MaireColclough]

Even so, you're not wrong! 😁

[@hollerinannes7780]

Ok, call me crazy... but what if we knit several of these on size 8 with worsted weight, and sew them together into a blanket

[@MaireColclough]

Eventually I'll have a moment to translate /interpret the pattern for modern knitters...and then whatever you do with it is entirely up to you. Go crazy with either the alpaca or the red heart. I'll just be happy it's bringing you joy 😁

[@pamf9018]

Iam sogoi g out to that website of old knitting books

[@brigidscaldron]

KITTEH!!!

[@brigidscaldron]

Archive.org? Oh sister you have just sent me on a deep dive! Lol

[@brigidscaldron]

I’m not a knitter but this was fascinating!

[@MaireColclough]

She sure is 😉

[@MaireColclough]

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed 😃

[@mayafantana5310]

Schal is German for scarf

[@NatureEllaJ]

🙏🥰✨💫🌹

[@angelapennock2639]

It’s the technique not the needles that cause discomfort.

[@resourcedragon]

I'd agree with you there! I was doing a rather complex Arran pattern some years ago and I buggered my wrist for a few weeks. When I was able to resume work on that project I took it a bit more carefully.

[@Inkdraft]

Pretentious? I don't think so, I rather prefer that lovely language over the vulgar, poorly spoken grammar of today.

[@MaireColclough]

That's the beauty of language...it grows and evolves. I enjoy the writing of Jane Austen, but there is still a certain loveliness in the image of the modern Lizzie Bennett yeeting one Mr Wickham from her parlour. 😁

[@dorcaswalker1867]

I don’t get the o stich, especially with o2

[@joelbaker9366]

I've translated the diamond element of the pattern for personal use (just that bit as a scarf), and do get a bit of how confusing it can be. The "o" stitch (raise the thread over the needle) is the same as a yo (yarn over). So you're doing a double yarn over to increase the stitch count, and still keep pattern with the k2tog. This is also why you have the knit/purl combo on the next row corresponding to where the double yarn over is. You can't knit into both yarn overs and have the stitches remain sound. I hope this helps.