Kobra 3 Z Axis Fix (English)

[@wilmspark]

It's very cool that you took the time to make this video to help others. Thank you!

[@RichardSandstrom1163]

Good Job!!! Thanks for posting this to help people understand how to fix their Z Axis.

[@ionutz89ful]

could you provide a link with same bearings from UK amazon or something like that? as I can't really find the same ones, when I search for them :(

[@theartmasta]

I've ordered the bearings and i hope this will fix it. Ive had no end of layer squish and banding since i started printing with this troublesome machine

[@michaelgruber5372]

Bzgl. Montage der Kugellager: Zuerst den oberen Teil der Kupplung festmachen, dann das Gewicht auf die Lager drücken lassen und dann erst unten festschrauben?

[@silentcorestudios]

Ja, den unteren Teil der Kupplung erst festziehen, wenn das Gewicht des Gantries über die Gewindestange voll darauf lastet und der obere Teil fest ist..

[@winglo7246]

I had kind of the same problems. After disassembling the 2 rods i found out that in my case the Z-backlash modules were so tight i really had to put some force in it to just get the rods trough them. I replaced both modules for Cr10 anti backlash T8 modules and all my Z axis problems are gone..

[@silentcorestudios]

This is because the motor is working at its performance limit due to its incorrect load. With mine, it is was enough to lift and support the filament tubes just a bit. The problem is the axial incorrect load, the motor could perform much greater radial load...

[@winglo7246]

@@silentcorestudios In my example that was not the case as i disassebled the whole rod. I only had the rod with the baklash module in my hands and tried to turn the backlash/lead screw module. It was almost unmovable, only with excessive force. The second rod was simular. Those leadscrew/baklash modules were way too tight.. As i said, after replacing both i can put the axis up and down with easy if i turn the axis on the motor side.

[@olehandwerk4692]

Thank you! I had the same problem - the plastic parts were too tight on the thread, and I could barely move not good by hand. With the Cr10, it's much better now! I'm also going to do the bearing upgrade. Thanks for the help!

[@pawprints-z8o]

Thanks for the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Any chance you could provide Amazon links to something that would work? It would make it easier for non-experts that do not understand German to source the parts. Even if not ordering from Amazon, we can use the link as a reference to source somewhere else. Many thanks!

[@GESion140]

Miniature axial ball bearings [F5-12M]-M-d1-12 [5x12x4 mm] For use in special conditions. The miniature axial bearing F5-12M-M-d1-12 is small and is suitable for mounting in limited space and on thin shafts. It absorbs loads from an axial direction and can be dismantled.

[@silentcorestudios]

The link with all the specs is in the video description..

[@SweetchuckIPAD2]

@@silentcorestudios the link is off

[@silentcorestudios]

@@SweetchuckIPAD2 Seems like the whole website is down for the moment..

[@checkoakela7435]

God job friend!

[@introspect2]

Great video - thank you. Serious question, why wouldn't you just use a single sealed bearing instead of this setup??? Seems like the open bearing unit would gather a lot of dust

[@silentcorestudios]

Before there was just a hole and the dirt fell directly into the stepper motor. This option consists of only 2 bearings, it is an extremely simple solution, there are certainly other approaches. I will test and use it this way for now.

[@majkysilipa]

Why they (Anacubic) dont use 2 motors for Z axis? Motor is not so expensive ...

[@NetrunnerAT]

Simpliefy Design. Dual Z-Axis need different Startup Routine to Balance the gentry.

[@majkysilipa]

@NetrunnerAT aaa, ok

[@calilifestyle]

thanks

[@regstamand9051]

Why 2 sets of bearings ?

[@iamabsolutebeing]

Because of the needed hight, its better than using washers or other parts..

[@regstamand9051]

Thank you for the clarification, I ordered one way bearings and will be doing this. My 1st layer is all over the place even with self leveling every print hoping this is my solution

[@stevenjunge6022]

Did you think it solves the problem with the first layer?

[@silentcorestudios]

Not sure, but the original design is not right, so its good to do the upgrade anyway..

[@NetrunnerAT]

​@@silentcorestudios i use 3d Printer since "Mandel" Design releases on GitHub. Over so many years, No one use axial beerings to unload z-axis wight. I will give it a shot. Possible new Anycubic steppers are Cheap Like hell.

[@jesperahman738]

This is a very common design, not sure i´d call it a design flaw. All 3D-printers I've owned during the last 10 years have had the same type of Z-axis design with the gantry weight on the stepper motor axle. I haven't seen a single issue related to this.

[@silentcorestudios]

Well, it might work to a point, but the gantry became quite heavy, these days.. Design wise, its not a correct layout, the thrust bearing IS missing and it would not be the first printer suffering from this issue: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/qcwx4e/i_finally_figure_out_why_my_layers_were_uneven/?rdt=39114

[@Poshtron79]

There is a simpler and much more efficient solution that it is small bearing that does not solve the problem on high prints. it is the brass ring that now comes the X gantry that allow the Z axis to go up and down. at the moment you will have nothing else more efficient.

[@felixrichter3939]

Welcher Messingring genau?