How to Install the Tesla Wall Charger Connector | Full Detailed Guide

[@quu433]

I just commented on another video for this installation that had many electrical code violations. I am an electrical contractor with 36 years of experience and 23 years in business. I want you to know I am very pleased with your tutorial. Good Job!!

[@BrianFischer]

Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback! Most of the time it's, "why didn't you do this," or "you did this wrong," so I like hearing these comments from time to time!

[@terpcraigcali6717]

If so then u know for a 60amp breaker u need number 4 gauge wire.

[@WadeFinancial]

@@terpcraigcali6717 shut up

[@jstevens501]

@@terpcraigcali6717 #6 thhn at 75 degrees is good for 65 amps. # 6 romex ( 60 degree table) is good for 55 amps. you can put 6 romex on a 60 as long as your load does not exceed 55 amps. I have never been called for putting 6-2 on a 60.

[@RT-qz5ci]

Nobody cares. Going around criticizing other peoples videos like you’re the judge. Make your own video if you’re so good

[@1950wecollins]

If anyone is considering installing a Tesla home charger: PLEASE READ THE MANUAL! My comments are to your viewers that believe the 60 amp breaker should be a GFCI. The Tesla manual says: DO NOT install a GFCI breaker. As you know, the Tesla charger already has one built in. Also, the manual says External disconnect switches are neither required nor recommended. You did a great job with this video.

[@hemidog216]

27 years of industrial 480v III phase experience here. You did a phenomenal home wiring demonstration for this install. For all those who want to wire in a home air compressor outlet and or a home use welder outlet. This is the same process. This demonstrates the safe and correct way to wire in an 240v outlet.

[@BrianFischer]

Thank you for the feedback!!

[@gapo62angler93]

Landing the breaker wires first is really not safe especially if the line side is further down from the load side , it is a good practice to land the load side first then the line side last just in case someone accidentally turns the breaker or switch on , it’s always a good practice. ✌🏽

[@EasyFusionRain]

I watched about 10 of these and yours was the most informative and helpful. Small things like mentioning the brand of your panel to match with the breaker you're buying. Most people don't realize these things when reading the Tesla manual and trying to do it themselves.

[@taylorlightfoot]

Some inspectors will fail you if you don't match the breaker brand to the brand of your box. Good info indeed.

[@everfragozo4410]

@@taylorlightfoot or some time the madafookrs.wont fit lol lil fyi

[@Corbin8]

Good info. I appreciate you leaving in the part where you had to remove the charger base, run the conduit, then reinstall the base. Many people would have edited that out.

[@yosh1to]

IMHO, this is one of the best DIY tech tutorial video in the history of KZbin (and I watch A LOT). Other DIY KZbinrs talk too much, beat around the bush, too many dad jokes, etc. but yours gets to straight to the point and details quickly with the right amount of humor, organized, and the BOM. One thing I would add is, if installing a subpanel in the process, one should always double check the wire gauge going into the main panel can handle the new load, main panel’s max current rating, main breaker’s capacity, and correct wire gauge going from main to sub (this can change depending on various factors including distance from main to sub, max current usage, wire material/type)

[@andresantiago3590]

Nice video, to save people money, you don't need to use 6awg Cooper ground wire. You can use 10awg copper

[@michellerobertgriffin3767]

Your the man. I’m not an electrician but have done many tasks at home. You just allowed me to give my wife a Tesla charger for home. Thanks awesome video.

[@rhkiku]

Electrician here One thing, please use a level when bending conduit. Klein has a really good level for conduit bending. When you were remounting the charger, putting a level on the longer part of that 90 would have been a good way to make sure your conduit is dead on. It also needs a means of support too. Might want to slap a 3/4" one hole strap in the middle of that pipe. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER STRIP WIRES WITH HAND TOOLS, ESPECIALLY STRANDED (THHN)! Using side cutters or lineman's pliers could kink, or fray the wire. Use a utility knife when stripping larger gauge wires. Use strippers for any gauge smaller than 10AWG. Another thing safety wise, NEVER use a non contact voltage tester when testing to see if a circuit is off, especially a sub panel. We call those widow makers. You need to use a multimeter to check to see if the circuit is indeed off. There's a lot of videos on how to properly use a multimeter, and don't cheap out on them. Get a good one. I personally use a Fluke T5 600. That model is easy to use, and perfect for home projects as the settings read both AC and DC. Fluke is a highly trusted brand among electricians. You don't want to cheap out on a multimeter. It's a life saving device. Other than those little things, you do great work! The bend looked great with it being eyeballed. You knew and eliminated the risks. For fucks sake, I saw a guy on here put a metal fish tape in a live panel doing the exact same job you did. KEEP IT UP!!!

[@BrianFischer]

Richard that's great feedback that will be very helpful on my next project. THANK YOU for keeping it clear and constructive.

[@rhkiku]

Anytime! I'm always down to help, and add a few tips to save someone's life haha. Keep up the good work.

[@gapo62angler93]

And please do the wiring termination in the breaker last , terminate wires in the wall charger first then the breaker , for safety. ✌🏽

[@cascivic]

Dumb question but if your box is "sunk" into the drywall can you come out of the knockout and through the drywall to conduit? Or does it have to be Romex? Tyia can't wait to get my model 3

[@TheCorrster]

Thank you for your help! Your video helped me safely install the wall charger after ages of planning. So happy to have it done.

[@SeeFutHunn]

You should actually use a multimeter to check for voltage in the panel instead of a tester. The tester has a minimum for it to actually detect anything and sometimes circuits can be backfed.

[@keithharrington8715]

A lot of people have a problem figuring out wire ampacity. At about time 9:28 you talked about number 6 wire and 60 amps. Yes the wire, like thhn, might have a high temperature rating and high amp capacity.....90 degrees c and 75 amps (nec section 310) however the circuit smpacity is sized for the weakest part.... Nec 110.14 deals with terminal connections. 100 Amp is the break over point between 60 degrees c and 75 degrees c. Yes, I am saying that (unless other wise labeled) your wire connection point (terminal) on your breaker puts you in the 60 degree column and that number 6 thhn wire rating is dropped to 55 amps. Hope that helps.

[@BrianFischer]

Keith - It sounds like you know what you are talking about here, but for others who might be reading can you explain this in layman's terms?

[@EzDuZit2012]

You did a good video. I learned some from you and learned some from others. I liked yours because of your DIY comments. I DIY'd my M3P with XPEL PPF stealth satin. It's not a pro job but have had many compliments. Took me a month lol. I totally get your DIY comments. Thanks for the video.

[@ronniemullis8717]

Another Blooper could be when you finished as you was flipping the breakers on you were standing back hoping you wouldn’t see sparks! Job well done, Thanks

[@kadhimtech6976]

Finally someone said what I need to get to install the charger….. petter than paying $650 for a technician

[@pawleysguy158]

You need to torque the connectors on the wall unit to 50 inlbs. Very important. Requires a torque screw driver. Never use two wires of the same color.

[@oscarcortez4616]

Why not use wires of the same color? Where in the code says you can’t? Unless if it’s a neutral

[@linhnguyen-li6us]

I have watched other videos about this. And the white wire is very confusing. Your videos about the ground wire are simple and to the point no fuss. Just make sure it does not go to the white bus bar but the ground bus bar.

[@JulianSwishers]

You shouldn't stand directly in front of the panel when turning on breakers you just installed, incase of anything you just installed goes wrong, the breaker(s) could cause an arc flash and in result burn you or even kill you. Its always taught to use your non dominant hand and stand beside the panel and not in front of it incase it does blow up. Just a tip from an electrician.

[@BrianFischer]

Julian I appreciate the tips! That'll be helpful for future projects.

[@jacobgomez-gregory9182]

Thank you. Both of y’all lol.

[@garbo8962]

Besides standing to one side you should ALWAYS take in a deep breath & hold it whole turning all circuit breakers and safety switches on & off. In the event if an Arc flash you would not inhale up to the 10,000 degrees into & severely burning your lungs. Common sense but took me over 30 as an industrial electrician to learn this.

[@TheBrickBrack]

NICE!! Thanks for covering all the bases! I'm also not an electrician, so when I realized I'd need to crack into my breaker box for this install, I got a little nervous. Your video was in-depth and broken down into good, plain english, lehman's terms. You made everything totally easy to understand and gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my own! I like that you've got some good validating comments from experienced electricians in here too! Great job!

[@ykhemani]

Thanks, Brian! This video was super helpful! I’m converting a NEMA 1450 outlet - I replaced the recessed 2 gang residential (plastic) box where the outlet was installed with a surface mounted steel box. I’m mounting the Tesla wall charger above the box. Both are secured to a 3/4” piece of ply wood. A couple of lessons learned: * the 3/4” conduit coming out of the steel box does NOT line up with the hole at the bottom of the Tesla wall charger. The Tesla wall charger’s hole is slightly further away from the wall than the EMT I had coming out of the steel box. * I don’t normally work with high voltage, and my wire cutters were not sufficient to cut the wires (I believe it’s 2 gauge). Need to go to Home Depot and pick up bigger wire cutters. * I was torn about using the steel box vs going directly into the back of the Tesla wall charger. I decided on the steel box because it provides me an easy way to take the Tesla wall charger with me and wire nut the wires in the box if we ever move. * This was a 4” steel box. If I did it again, I’d use a larger box.

[@BrianFischer]

Glad it was helpful! Indeed, cutting the wire is difficult. Try to avoid scoring the copper if you can as another person mentioned. The box is a good idea. I'm in the process of selling my home and being able to easily disconnect it and take it with me is turning out to be a huge advantage now.

[@finestpix]

I watched this again as I'm moving and reinstalling the charger at my new location. I wish I could give you another 'like'

[@GreyEagle3]

He made it look way to easy !

[@phugwad]

Excellent video for anyone planning to install the Tesla level 2 connector/charger. Even for those of us who have done lots of wiring, it addresses the issues specific to the Tesla charger, ie power inlets, connections, assembly of faceplate, etc. Well done!

[@demoticshadow2494]

Only have 100 amp but told.max.load shouldn't be issue? Can we still install

[@thejuliens9155]

This video was very helpful and great I love the way that you not only took your time but shoulder step by steps on ways of doing everything properly. I also love the bloopers at the end that was a great touch and shows great characteristics and that were human thank you and have a blessing.

[@davidfridley9791]

Great video! I just ordered my Tesla and I will for sure be referencing back to this to install my charger!

[@howtimflies204]

Good video, you're a natural. Good for you for using what looks like the THHN wiring which is required by code for the 60 amp circuit.

[@BrianFischer]

Thank you Tim! I appreciate the feedback. What Tesla are you deciding on getting or have bought?

[@howtimflies204]

@@BrianFischer I have a Model Y coming in 2 weeks but they keep pushing it back a day so if I use an integer function it may be 2 months 😆. It says 16-19th . LR white, black wheels, and hitch.

[@howtimflies204]

🤔 just found out they are deleting the passenger lumbar support. BMW and others are too because of part shortages.

[@carlosmesa5077]

THHN does not mean 60amp, it means it is not approved for wet locations and 90c ampacity rating can be used

[@jstevens501]

@@carlosmesa5077 find another trade. painting maybe? or drywall?

[@monsooncaps6741]

You may not be an electrician but you’re doing a great job. Very impressed sir!

[@CookiePepper]

Torque driver is really important, especially for DIYers who do not have experience. 50 in-lb is really really really tight. Not secured connections could cause fire. Considering diameter of your screw driver and face expression while you were tightening, you only applied 27.5 in-lb.

[@BrianFischer]

@CookiePepper - I would agree looking back on it now. Any brand of torque driver you'd recommend?

[@williambratton8900]

The way you did the wiring you risk burning down the house. You can avoid such a risk by torquing down the wire connections on the wall charger and breaker. Both units provide their torquing requirements. Since you are using stranded wire you need to torque the wire , back off and torque again. Do this three times to get the wires to spread for the best connection.

[@BrianFischer]

Thanks for the commentary. I added an addition back in June in the pinned comment to advise people to use a torque screwdriver.

[@DblOSmith]

I've seen so many of these install videos, I feel I could do it myself.... but I'm still having an electrician do it. lol. Good vid.

[@taylorlightfoot]

Good video, but one important step was skipped. It's highly recommended to use an actual torque screwdriver to verify you reached the 50lb ft setting required on the Tesla terminal and also the torque setting required as indicated on your circuit breaker. It may not seem that important, but when running 48Amps through those connections, an improperly torqued connection will lead to excessive heat. After using a torque screwdriver, you'll also be surprised how much tighter you really needed to make the connections from what you might think was sufficient doing it solely by feel. The Wall charger also has a temperature monitor that sits/mounts right over the Tesla wire terminals and if it senses heat from improperly torqued wires, you will see overheating errors and/or the charger decreasing the maximum charge rate to a value lower than 48A.

[@trex2092]

Correct, "German Torque" does not cut it. Torque it to specs. 50 in/lb. I have seen the problem of under torqued connections and had to go back behind an electrician and correct the problem and run the wire into another lug since the first one was fried because it was too loose.

[@444MarlinSS]

It dont matter if its a tesla charger or a electric kitchen oven. ALWAYS WIGGLE THE WIRE AT THE TERMINATION POINT AS YOU TIGHTEN THE LUG SCREW!.Then you torque to specifications.

[@tonymai1844]

clear instruction, clear pictures. I understand more clearly how to do on my own. I would do it my self

[@xcqematic1]

Great video! Why find studs? Cant you just use drywall anchors for this weight?

[@bobuk5722]

Hi folks, if in the UK doing this is illegal if not a registered qualified electrician. For more info consult Part P of the UK Building Regulations. We are not allowed to DIY a new radial circuit from the Consumer Unit (aka fuse panel in the US). It's not just voltage and frequency that is different, how the electricity is brought into the property, how protective conductors are installed and how circuits are protected are all different from US practice. Even how connections are made can be different. When you come to sell your house you will need the relevant certificates issued by your electrician to confirm the installation has been correctly installed and tested.

[@TrendyStone]

Luckily in the US (most states) we have more freedom.

[@balthezor]

I built a brand new house and had an electrician put this in before drywall was in. But I still watched this entire video lol

[@BrianFischer]

I bet he watched my video 😆

[@gteichrow]

Thank you so much for this video!!! Helped give me the confidence to finish taking out my old Gen 1 and put in a Gen 3. Took all the mystery out.

[@edgards]

As a future Tesla owner, thanks for making this video. I'm planning to tackle this project in the next few weeks and I'm kind of nervous as I've never done electrical work at high current/voltage.

[@flyingjeff1984]

Nice video. When working with stranded wire, tighten, loosen, tighten.

[@3pointslow]

love the bloopers dude. great work coming from a journeyman electrician.

[@kamalakrsna]

What about mentioning the terminal screws r supposed to tighten to a specific torque ?

[@user-ql2gv9zd8f]

Tks! You made it very easy for me to connect mine. Very CLEAR and understandable.

[@donnywhann8732]

You only needed 10 gauge for the ground wire. The red electrical tape used for securing actually marked your ground as a hot wire. Electrical tape is an insulator, and meant for marking not securing. Just use another zip tie if you want it more secure, and definitely get rid of that red tape on it. Overall a cool video.

[@BrianFischer]

Thank you for pointing that out. Obvious mistake on the red electrical tape. 6 gauge ground won't hurt I wouldn't imagine.

[@donnywhann8732]

@@BrianFischer upsizing ground wire won’t hurt it at all, but you could’ve saved a couple of bucks using 10. Pennies probably, but it’s not wrong.

[@jieeshen]

Can you just connect the ground to the metal conduit instead of an extra green wire?

[@taylorlightfoot]

@@jieeshen I don't think it's code for circuits above 20A. The screw fittings can become loose or someone can forget to tighten them, the separate wire is required to ensure a good safety path. Also the Tesla wall charger will measure the resistance of the ground path and won't be happy if it's not a good solid connection.

[@billgatewood9578]

I would have used #4 wire because this is considered a continuous load and ampacity should be calculated at 125% of load.

[@raypabs5374]

If you are using a 60 amp breaker or circuit, are you not required to use 4 guage wiring even if that is a short run? 6 guage wires are only rated to handle a max of 55 amps.

[@literaldirt]

#6 line and #10 ground, but it’s wrong how he installed.

[@andrewpham8665]

Very Nice Sir! Now I know I only need 6/2 and not 6/3 cable for wall charger.

[@Emergenttheory]

Thanks for the instruction and the bloopers well known to any DIYs

[@BrianFischer]

It happens! I'm not going to pretend this install was completed without any errors!

[@captainron7904]

i would of put one of those plastic nut on the end of the EMT after the locknut that goes into the load center so the wire does not chafe on the metal on both ends

[@dalevanderzee4086]

Nice job Brian. I might add that you leave the texted overlay comments on a bit longer. I did see about using the torque wrench (it flashed by) but more on this would be good. You torque both the breaker wires and the outlet wires

[@rcmen231]

Great video. Keep making more. It’ll be worth it. If not for the $$$ do it to have your kid be able to go see them. And they are helpful to the community.

[@331SVTCobra]

Note that stranded wire offers better conductivity. Solid wire will work, but stranded is better.

[@lukenolan79]

Ow by the way the Best installation video anyone has done on the Internet for The gen 3

[@Outdoor-Space]

Nice work Brian!! Great info, very clear and informative! Thank you for sharing.

[@hssaini31]

Excellent video covering almost everything

[@johnmahon4409]

Great video, I feel a lot better about installing the charger myself now!

[@rickleduc7262]

Excelent instructions video. Thanks Brian.

[@jeremytaylor6523]

Brian, Nice work, just curious on your wire size. Why did you use #6 wire (ampacity rating is 55A), instead of #4 wire (ampacity rating 85A)?

[@t-davis]

can you make a video on how to safely disconnect one (for people moving homes). thx!

[@bxu789]

nice job and video with instructions.

[@Sovereign_Citizen_LEO]

4AWG is the wire size that should be used for 60 Amp continuous. 55 Amp is the max continuous amperage on 6AWG. 60 Amp is the absolute Maximum for 6AWG (not Continuous). And I believe according to the NEC, 65 Amps is the peak temporary for 6AWG (maybe 10 or 15 seconds). I don't know what the specs of the Tesla Charger are. While 6AWG might work, I wouldn't use it for that purpose. Nice video though. I don't own a Tesla (wish I did), but am doing a Solar Install.

[@edwardcarrillom]

Everywhere I look it says you need a 4 guage wire for a 60 amp breaker not a 6 guage. Any explanation on that?

[@Jonathan_O]

What’s with all the pieces of wood? Just mount it directly on the drywall or better yet flash mount it.

[@cmd4630]

Do I really need to do the loop that Tesla has in it's instruction when connecting the wires to the charger connector? My installation is going to be indoors in the garage. Wiring is not long enough to loop around, but it's more than sufficient to do a direct connection. Thanks.

[@SanFranciscoHermes]

Wow! You are a genius!!! Thank you for such an informative video!!!

[@keithharrington8715]

Reading a wire ampacity chart: Table 310.16 in the National Electric Code gives max. Amps for both copper and aluminum wires. Current moving through wires generates heat. Heat is an enemy to current flow....more heat, less flow. Number 8 wire is the same size/same wire capacity no matter what insulation is on it. The copper is the copper! But, we put a blanket of protection on the wire to protect it from shorting with other wires, but also, the wires envirnment (water,

[@keithharrington8715]

Sorry, fat finger:.... Wire envirnment...environment....water, heat. Sunlight and more). That means the different the insulation releases heat differently. It is kinda like sleeping with a sheet in the summer, a light blanket in spring/fall, and a heavy blanket for winter. That is why there are the different columns and temperatures ratings. Our number 8 wire has 3 different ratings based on the insulation ( wires ability to get rid of heat).... 40/50/55. For a 50 Amp circuit it might work.... Hold on, the circuit breaker is normally heat rated also. It is based on its design ability to get rid of heat. NEC 110.14.(C) tells us that a breaker less than 100 amps normally has a 60 degree c temperature ability to get rid of heat and any wire connected to it, to it's terminals, must use that rating. So, no 8 thhn might be rated to carry 55 amps at 90 degrees, to connect it to the breaker the wire rating must be dropped to the 40 amps in the 60 degree C column because of the breakers ability/design. If you are at home trying to size wire, the connection to the breaker means you must use the lowest rating of the wire 60 degrees c because of the breaker terminal connection. Hope I got it all and it makes sense.

[@JFM1170]

Good job its not that hard to do, you just have to take your time.

[@markkennard861]

This is prescribed electrical work. Here in NZ. If the home owner completed prescribed electrical work then they can be fined. What was your Earth loop Impedance test results and what are the RCD test tripping times ? Dont worry, I don't expect you to answer those questions... Just trying to get my point across. If you get a fire and there is no electrical certification then no insurance.

[@BrianFischer]

That is why I say check your local laws. Based on my location, a PFC test is not required, nor is a measurement of the trip time for a RCD.

[@markkennard861]

@@BrianFischer I guess our electrical is strict as we are 230v single Phase. If an electrician here fills out a certificate and does not complete the necessary tests the Electrical workers registration board can fine and remove your practicing license, = go hungry. Quite a big deal.

[@RT-qz5ci]

Awesome job man. Love your attention to detail. Installing this monday and feel way better about it

[@BrianFischer]

Glad I could help! That's the goal!

[@TheJuggernoob1]

This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

[@spike378]

Now I have to run 2 8awg and 1 10awg wires through a 1/2 inch conduit underground. I wish my garage was attached.

[@dpdp006]

Very useful video …you did cover covered everything imo.

[@quadbears]

Fantastic explanation! Wow! Truly. great job.

[@FrederVision]

This charger only needs a bond wire? Not a neutral wire.? Mine are not tied together in my panel. Seems like best practice would call for a neutral over a bond for quick tripping in case faults.

[@TrendyStone]

False. The Tesla Wall Connector does not use a neutral. Two hots and a ground. Neutral is always connected to ground in the main breaker.

[@Honarithmusic]

Thanks for the awesome video! How many wires required total 3 or 4? I plan to put on conduit can I use the ground wire smaller one and the rest 6 gauge?

[@skiptloo]

If I get a 50a gfci for the house, do I install another one in the detached garage sub panel?

[@flyingscot3666]

awesome video dude - looked at some real dross b4 I found this one - gr8 job - demonstrating that Tesla owners can actually be real hands on useful practical people.... although I think we might be in the minority based on the videos I have watched......I've subscribed - cheers

[@ronjoe1]

A well done video, very informative.

[@reaford2004]

Best video I’ve seen on this

[@BrianFischer]

6/25/23 Revision - The screws that hold the wiring into place on the charger need to be torqued to 50 in-lb. It's incredibly difficult to judge this based on feel. Looking back on this now, I would recommend renting a torque screwdriver from somewhere like Autozone or Home Depot if available. Otherwise, you will need to purchase one of these tools to ensure you're reaching the Tesla torque specification. If this is too loose, the wires could theoretically slip out and become a fire hazard. 2/11/22 Revision - In addition to a non-contact voltage detector. Use a good multi-meter to check if the circuit is indeed off. Use a utility knife to strip the larger gauge wire and use a level to ensure the conduit is at perfect 90. Thanks Richard Kikuchi! 4/30/21 Revision - Do not use red electrical tape shown at 11:35 to secure the wire. Instead, add another zip tie to firmly secure it. Red electrical tape will mark that wire as "hot". Voltage Detector - geni.us/Htbi [Amazon] Blog Post - geni.us/iVTsB [BrianMFischer] Get 1,000 free Supercharger miles: geni.us/hbpBGI7 [Tesla] Tools _____________________________________________________________________________ Dewalt Drill + Impact Driver Set - geni.us/dw5QIx [Amazon] Voltage Detector - geni.us/Htbi [Amazon] Step Drill Bit - geni.us/9phch5u [Amazon] Conduit Cutter - geni.us/Bjy2 [Amazon] De-burring Tool - geni.us/e8ur [Amazon] Stud Finder - geni.us/xJtkVhI [Amazon] Countersink Drill Bit - geni.us/VYCFvqk [Amazon] Materials _____________________________________________________________________________ 3/4" Conduit Bender - geni.us/XDQv [Amazon] 3/4" EMT Fittings - geni.us/ZBfU [Amazon] 6 AWG Wire - Buy @ Home Depot/Lowe's* 60A Breaker Switch - Buy @ Home Depot/Lowe's* 3/4" EMT/Conduit - Buy @ Home Depot/Lowe's* 3" Deck Screws - geni.us/naiEKu [Amazon] 2.5" Deck Screws - geni.us/jBeOyyV [Amazon] Square-D Sub-Panel - geni.us/cpySw [Amazon] | Also could buy @ HD/Lowe's 60A Disconnect Switch - geni.us/D1OyxS [Amazon] Tesla Wall Charger Connector - geni.us/EWMqoR [Tesla] Blog Post - geni.us/iVTsB [BrianMFischer] General Disclaimer: Any information available in this video and on Brian Fischer's channel is intended for entertainment purposes only and must never be considered a substitute for advice provided by a licensed or qualified professional. Although Brian Fischer takes all reasonable care to ensure the contents of this video and channel are up-to-date, all information contained is provided 'as-is'. Brian Fischer shall not be liable for any direct, incidental, consequential, indirect, or punitive damages arising out of access to use of any content available on this channel, regardless of the accuracy or completeness of any such content. *The reason I list some of these items as buying in store is because you can get a custom length, like on the wire, or it's something that's simply better to buy in-store. I would not want to buy a 60A breaker off Amazon, only to find out it might be a counterfeit or had been damaged during shipping. Amazon Affiliate Disclaimer: Brian Fischer is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

[@ectomorph711]

please use a wire striper for that wire Gauge !

[@yask4it]

Don't they sell the 90 degree corners at home depot, so no bender needed ?

[@Angelboy99]

There is a difference to explain how to deal with an electrician and DIY against local code and insurance coverage in case of arc flash, electrocution, fire or damage to your 60K$ + EV. Removing this video is the right thing to do.

[@BrianFischer]

Your sentence doesn't make sense, but I believe I understand what you're trying to say. It'd be helpful for you to point out the specifics of what is wrong and why. Thanks for your input.

[@alexp7362]

If my home panel don’t have 200amp main kill switch then I can’t do that exact install?

[@user-wb2zi6iy7i]

Tesla should make a ground path on the base plate so we do not need grounding wire as EMT

[@kenschulz5138]

Thank you for all your information

[@mdlawrenceusa]

Thank you for an incredible job!

[@stronghold0729]

Excellent video; thanks for putting it up! Thumbs up!!

[@DavidJones-zc2or]

What size wire did you use to power you sub panel from your main box? What size amp is your sub panel? Thanks for any info.

[@JoseMedina-fu5yc]

my panel has a 150 amp service ist enough to run a 60 amp with the tesla wall connector? and my house has central ac washer & dryer & electric stove

[@stevkoria]

i have 150 amp panel. will i need to upgrade or can i still use same panel? if not for wall installer can i go with standard nema 14-50 instead?

[@PeterJames143]

I like your work. Thanks

[@blackfish95]

Clean install. Good work

[@oscarcortez4616]

You didn’t need a neutral? I think a lot of people are installing Tesla chargers with either # 8 or 6 wire THHN or whatever. It doesn’t matter! You’re still suppose to use 60 degree Celsius colum since it’s less than 100amps. Plus if you’re tesla has a 60 amp breaker it means you need to install at 125% since it’s a continuous load. 60x1.25. Even if you’re using THHN you gotta stick to the 60 degree colum

[@lexLv]

Great video. Thanks for posting!

[@mttobx]

your video are very helpful, my tesla charger install by previous owner are wired exact the way in your video, but my ev is not a Tesla so i need to convert it into 14-50 plug, can it be done?

[@BrianFischer]

Yes, the wiring will likely be the same coming out of the box. Instead of going to a charger, they'll go to the plug. Search around for a 220v Nema 14-50 diagram and it'll show you.

[@sidleysidley]

14-50 requires a neutral wire; Tesla chargers do not require this. Your situation depends on whether your new charger requires a neutral and if there's a neutral wire available in your current install. One thing is definite - if you don't have a neutral wire, you should **not** install a 14-50 socket.

[@taylorlightfoot]

14-50 outlets require a neutral to be code compliant. Most likely the old Tesla wiring lacks a neutral because it's not needed for car charging. A code compliant method if you do not have a neutral wire would be to install a 6-50 outlet instead and replace the plug on your non Tesla charger with a 6-50 plug.

[@johnadams1976]

In the UK we have to use a PEN device between consumer unit and charger... Is that not necessary for you guys??

[@jimryan1976]

Good job, well done.

[@dennytran3650]

Just wondering... So you used 6AWG THHN two Reds and also 6AWG THHN for Green ground wires?

[@BrianFischer]

Correct, the grounds probably didn't need to be that thick.

[@davidrcook8126]

Big help...Thank you!

[@vuleadventsite]

Hey buddy. It's a great video. I installed a 40 amps breaker for my tesla. Everything connect correctly. But why when I plug to change work well but for a few minute the breaker jump shut. I have only 100 amps panel. Is that why. Please help

[@BrianFischer]

My Tesla can pull, at max, 48 amps. When you plug in, try adjusting the amps the car is pulling. You can see it on the screen in the car, likely labeled 48A, adjust it down to around 30 amps. My guess is your car is pulling 40+ amps, easily tripping the 40A breaker.