Kraton EXB RPM conversion

[@shaileshgarach7571]

haven't had any issues with my v5 arms. I actually prefer them to be stiffer so i don't get a bent drive shaft. This is why they stiffened them up over the v4. Cheaper to replace an arm than a driveshaft. Keep up the good work!

[@AJJAMStudios]

I’m glad your truck makes you happy. That’s the whole idea. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍

[@ianbudgetrc2574]

This is a 10/10 for me. Thanks for this very informative video. I am converting the rear lower arms of my kraton exb to rpm

[@AJJAMStudios]

Thank you. 😎👍

[@3dconceptsofutah757]

Thanks for the video! Someone mentioned painting the dogbones a bright color so you can find them in the dirt when they get lost ;-D Wishing I knew that before I lost one. Never losing them is even better! Cheers!

[@AJJAMStudios]

We've discussed it and we plan to give it a try. Nothing is more infuriating than looking for lost parts. Thanks for commenting. AJ

[@ParcoUpchurch]

@@AJJAMStudios Hello Sir! Thank you for this channel people like me in my 50s I appreciate you! I was out with my Kraton EXB 6S and the front driftshaft came out the diff cup on the right, again. Did my normal loosen the pivot balls and got in back in the diff. Then the front left came out but this time the lower pivot ball screw backed out the lower arm...that was a new one for me never had it back out I'm using the same metal C-hubs used. On the EXB we have the washer up top on that arm and the red washer/spacer on the bottom arm. Getting really frustrated with this need to do something. To date, do you still like those RPM lower arms for the front the front only is all I will do if I purchase those? Sorry need to look at the video again but do I leave the top pivot arm washer off and the red cap spacer off on the lower arm for the front? Thx Sir just rechecking before I make a move.

[@MotoWandering]

Such an underrated channel! You just got a new subscriber....great content.

[@AJJAMStudios]

Much appreciated! Thanks for the compliment. Welcome to the channel!!!

[@EastTactics]

Agreed

[@wylinout2257]

Thx for this vid drop! Just broke my front A arm and shock rod end LOL All the parts just came in and putting them in tonight 👍

[@AJJAMStudios]

Have fun with the wrenching, we always do. Thanks for the comment. AJ

[@dynomike11]

Love the video, explanations, and humility throughout to acknowledge this is what works for you!

[@AJJAMStudios]

Thank you. 😎👍

[@SebastianLong]

I'm beginning to notice that Arrma needs upgrades out of the box. That's been the case for my Arrma Outcast 8s, and for my Typhon. I don't feel like throwing extra money at the EXB as the durability was the reason I got the EXB. I am slowly shying away from Arrma. I don't have as many issues with Traxxas and Losi. I've got 16 RCs currently. Losi Super Baja Rey, Super Rock Rey, DB Pro, LMT Gravedigger, 5ive T, LST 3XLE. Traxxas I've got Summit, Revo 3.3, UDR, and TRX4 Bronco. Arrma Outcast 8s, Arrma Typhon, Arrma Kraton EXB (brand new and waiting on a servo arm, pinion, and receiver to come in). I've also got Eflite F-18 Hornet 80mm EDF and a Eflite Night Timber X. Proboat Zelos Twin is my last one. The Losi's need very few upgrades if any, Traxxas needs a few, but mostly in the electronics department. Arrma, little bit of everything.

[@AJJAMStudios]

You are "not wrong" on this point, Arrma gets close but does fall short a bit on the durability end of things. However, if the upgrades don't break the deal for you, you can have some of the toughest RC on the planet. Granted, these rigs are then considered hybrids and not strictly Arrma anymore, but in some cases you only have to upgrade a thing or two and the costs can be relatively low. However, in other cases, like the Kraton or Outcast 8s V1 series, the upgrades can stack up in price substantially to get that same durability. At the end of the day it is, as always, up to each of us to choose our path to enjoyment. We here love hitting the ramps, which takes a toll on the components of any RC. We've noticed that the majority of the new stuff fairs well when durability comes into play. Traxxas, Losi, Arrma, Associated, and so forth. For some, the standard RC will do just fine, no upgrades necessary. But for others, the more extreme, the unruly and lawless among our RC community, those who are not afraid to push the limits, the stock RC's, no matter who the manufacturer may be, are just not going to hold up. I love your commitment to the hobby, both in the air and on the ground, and wish you the happiest of holidays...and, thanks for the comment. AJ

[@michaellagler7580]

Great explanation, I'll give the rpm arms a go! Keep up making new content!! Looking forward!!

[@AJJAMStudios]

Thank you. I hope you like them, they rock for me, and I run in fairly cold conditions during the winter time. They are much better than the stock arms. AJ

[@Crigs66]

Definitely gained a follower after this video! Great work and awesome info!

[@AJJAMStudios]

Awesome, thank you!

[@kentuckyrc2142]

Nice video! great explanations I subbed!

[@AJJAMStudios]

Awesome, thank you!

[@Northside910]

Great video. In this video are you showing a 8s kraton exb rpm arms installment?

[@AJJAMStudios]

This video is on the Kraton 6s EXB V1. We upgraded the 8s as well but haven’t had to install the RPM arms yet.

[@Northside910]

okay. I’ve heard that the rpm a arms for the kraton 8s is designed for the ready to run kraton blx 8s.not for the kraton 8s exb.

[@michaeltan1708]

Nice vid!! Did you had any problems with bend shock shaft? Because now it’s quite wider the opening of the shocks. I’m worried if I do this to my exb will bend both shock shafts in the 1 big jump

[@AJJAMStudios]

I did bend one, but I landed so badly I deserved it. Other than that, no. Thanks for asking. 😎👍

[@Aro800]

Thanks for a great video, Just got a V4 with these RPM upgrades would it be more or at least as durable as the EXB?

[@AJJAMStudios]

Pretty close. The shock towers, chassis braces, and shock ends could use a little work too. But those are small issues. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍

[@joe_cool3615]

Great info man, i have the v4 kraton so I'm sure the rpm arms would be the way to go too if I start having issues😎 would you go with the rpm bumper or the exb bumper for my v4 kraton?

[@idarrah3]

The exb front bumper all the way!

[@joe_cool3615]

@@idarrah3 cool thanks!😎 I need one

[@AJJAMStudios]

Either works but the exb bumper is much better. 😎👍

[@X-KroLL]

I haven't had that problem at all with the Notorious V5 with the same exb arms. Wonder why you have, whether it's an EXB issue, or a personal car issue.

[@AJJAMStudios]

It’s hard to say. However, I’m not the only one with the issue. Perhaps it’s a batch thing. I’m glad yours is working properly. AJ

[@gboulter]

So did you really not notice the geometry is different with the V4 to the EXB V5 rear ends. That is why the tower is a different width and although RPM rear arms will fit they don't function as designed you lose quite a bit of travel which results in the rear sitting low .

[@AJJAMStudios]

No. I did not catch that. Thanks for pointing that out. 😎👍

[@AJJAMStudios]

Mine seems to work awesome. Perhaps the difference is negligible.

[@fatcatdan65]

I put rpm arms on my v5 kraton and the drive shaft on the front is right inline with the shock retaining screw cant even get to tighten it with out removing the driveshaft is that common

[@Iloveshoes2]

I was wondering what Wheel and Tires are you using on your Kraton? I love the design of the wheels.

[@AJJAMStudios]

Those are from the Mojave. But I run the Talion and the stock tires as well. Thanks for the question. AJ

[@ericdamisch8796]

What kind of driving do u use the mojave tires for? Still just to bash?

[@jacolamprecht6920]

Hi i have a kraton v5 is the RPM arms the same ??? and do i need a different sway bar.

[@AJJAMStudios]

The front arms are usable with no changes, but the rears do require a V4 sway bar, plus the V4 shock pins. To solve the driveline issue, you only need to change out the front arms. I did both sets, front and rear, and I love the handling and toughness of the truck. The choice is yours. AJ

[@RC_Berserker]

Does this all apply for the new RTR/EXB Talion?

[@AJJAMStudios]

Pretty much. They are more alike than they are different. The arms fit both rigs.

[@sniperowlG]

What diff fluid do you like in the Kraton?

[@AJJAMStudios]

I can't say exactly because I mix my fluids to get the right thickness, but I like mine pretty stiff. Sometimes I use silicone ear plugs to lock my diffs up. It really depends upon the application. Thanks for the question. AJ

[@tomasgrigley8844]

My question is. Will that same set up work on the Kraton Notorious?

[@AJJAMStudios]

Yes

[@AJJAMStudios]

It does work. Remember, the Notorious is a shortened Kraton. 😎👍

[@JustKeepLivingFPV]

Did you ever put send caps on your rpm arms?

[@michaellagler7580]

Hi, just tried to fit RPM rear arms (81402) to my kraton exb with stock gear box and stock hinge pin braces. It doesn't seem to fit. Problem is the RPM arms are a couple mm thicker at the part where you insert the hinge pins. Any idea what's the difference between your and my car? Help is very much appreciated.

[@AJJAMStudios]

I noticed no difficulties in the changeover. I do have both the V4 and the EXB so give me some time and I’ll dig into it for you. However, my rpm arms went right on with no issues providing you have the V4 sway bar and shock pins. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

[@michaellagler7580]

@@AJJAMStudios Ok, i disassembled the rear clip further and the problem is the front part of it. When the RPM arms are mounted with the hinge pins but without the gear box in place it leaves a gap of 35 mm. However, the front part of the gear box is 36 mm wide. What could be the reason for that. Just to confirm rpm 81402 is the correct arm? Deviations in gear box geometry? Or did they put the wrong hinge pin brace? Anyways the stock arm JUST fits, but the rpm seems to be too wide. How much space your rear rpm arms leave to the front of the rear gear box?

[@AJJAMStudios]

OK, I think I understand the issue, but I might not be getting what you're trying to say, so here goes. Example: (I bought RPM arms for my Senton 3s, right? When I went to install them they were a bit too wide to fit. Now, these were designed for this exact car, and they didn't want to go on. I found that -- one, the hinge pins were too tight, and two -- the width was too wide, not by a lot but too wide just the same.) This kind of thing can happen with any molded plastic parts, especially when it is an aftermarket part. Still, the resolution was simple enough to get the thing working just fine. Modding RCs is kind of an art to get them working correctly. So, the fix was this; using a piece of sandpaper, I worked the ends of the pin area --both sides-- until I got the arm to move freely in the braces. Then, Using the appropriate sized drill bit, I cleaned out the hinge pin channels. Like I said, the molding process "can" be a bit imprecise at times; measuring the arms, or gearboxes, can show this in detail. As for your issue, I checked the stock V4 arms --of which the RPM arms are a direct replacement-- against the EXB stock arms and they do work. The design is different, as for shock placement, sway bar placement, and grub screw placement, but the attachment points work. As for the RPM arms fitting, small modifications to adjust them to your car "can sometimes" be necessary. With some creative shop time, you should be able to overcome this clearance issue. I checked a brand new set of RPM arms, which I happen to have still in the packet, and they do seem to be a bit wider than even the V4 stock arms, of which they are supposed to be a direct replacement. The modification is not a big one, but you may have to file down the ends a bit to get them installed. This is not always the case, for mine went right on, but I do ream out the pins as a matter of course, just to get smooth travel. I hope this helps. If I'm off the mark on your issue, please try and explain it a bit more clearly so I can get the gist of it and work to help fix the problem for you. Also, you do have the correct part number. AJ

[@michaellagler7580]

@@AJJAMStudios thank you very much for this detailed answer! 🙏 You got the issue right. I will try to sand off enough material to fit the arms in.

[@EastTactics]

Unfortunately your video (when comparing the rear arms) is not showing the other side, which is where you would want to compare the actual placement of the shock rods entering the arms. On the V4/RPM the holes are a good half inch farther out then the EXB/V5. Thats a huge difference. The V5/EXB arms do have two holes drilled for the option to run either the V4, or EXB shock towers on the EXB platform, so if you decide to switch towers to the old V4 you can. However..the V4/RPM arms are not a cross compatible to the EXB rear tower. They V4/RPM rear arms are only compatible with the old stye tower (Original V4 towers with the elongated ears). So... if you decide to match the new narrow based tower (smaller ears) that comes with the V5 and EXB to the V4 or RPM arms, like what your doing... you are over stretching your shocks, as the gap is a good 1/2 inch longer and your shocks will be sitting at a steeper angle then proper design (and performance) calls for. Sure ... it might work... but your droop will be out of wack, and shock performance will be negatively impacted. Solution - if you love the RPM A-arms, then you want to rock the old Rear shock tower.

[@AJJAMStudios]

Nice. Good to know. Thank you for sharing that with me. 😎👍

[@kimpineda5627]

Hi mate if you dont mind can i get the link of the sway bar v4 to fit in my exb 6s rear rpm arm? Thank mate

[@AJJAMStudios]

Search Kraton V4 rear sway bar on Ebay. That should get you there. AJ

[@letsgetitrc]

Look at your rear rpm arms now and move them up and you’ll see they hit the drive ups which is not good! I wish they worked but they do not at all.. front works, rear droop is way off and hits the cups. Look at the arms by the cup and you will see indents in the arm where it’s hitting 👍 I wish they did work (properly)

[@AJJAMStudios]

For the exb the mushroom part of the droop screw is down, not up, check your manual. Also, to limit the throw of the arms the shocks should be connected to the swing arm at the closest hole to the diff housing. I have had no issues with what you are describing. The clearance is good and the arms fit well. The droop screws sit a little off but with the mushroom section down they work just fine. Good luck.

[@letsgetitrc]

Who said anything about the mushroom going up 😂 unless you have a M2c chassis buddy your exb chassis is going to take a beating from the droop screws they barely hit. Also I don’t see how unless you used a dremel to cut back some of the arm. The front barely misses the drivecups and the rear hits them, also geometry is way off compared to stock that rear end is wayyy low for bashing you want to use all of your shock minus 1/8 then chassis slap. If you like it that’s really all that matters but this is wrong information to give people that don’t know any better💯 videos are nice tho I enjoy most of the content 👍

[@AJJAMStudios]

@@letsgetitrc Fair enough, but I've noticed no issues. The arms are tough and they seem to do just fine, plus, I've lost no drivelines since I switched. I've noticed no undue wear either. I use little if any of the droop screw anyway. I like full travel. As far as the geometry goes, basically its a V4 rear end on the EXB. The differences are minimal: the droop screws misaligned some, the shocks slightly off from the V4 but that's about it. The arms and the bulkheads are the same as the V4 and that car works just fine with them on it. And I do not have contact with the drive cups when the arms are up. Now I'm no purist, and I do whatever to make things tough. Keep in mind, I'm not trashing your views here or trying to beat up on you, I'm just saying, some things are not all that necessary. Is it perfect, no, but if it runs like a deer, it's probably a deer. Thanks for the comment. AJ

[@michaellagler7580]

@@AJJAMStudios unfortunately i had the same issue like josh. When the RPM arms travel up they hit the drive cups. And this is actually exactly the spot where the stock arms have a cut out. I tried with the dremel but now I am afraid that the walls are too thin. I'll give it a try anyways and see if the arms keep up...

[@AJJAMStudios]

Let me know how that goes. I've dug into my car to see what the issue is, but mine barely touch, and they have to be jammed all the way up to make contact. Can you send me a pic of yours? I am genuinely curious about this issue. Thanks. AJ

[@NeighberhoodRC]

Wouldn’t aluminum arms be stronger ?

[@AJJAMStudios]

We like flexibility in the arms to prevent other breakdowns. RPM arms are super durable but flexible.

[@JustKeepLivingFPV]

What size tires are those on your kraton?

[@AJJAMStudios]

Those are the stock tires from the Talion 6s.

[@JustKeepLivingFPV]

@@AJJAMStudios well that's one way to turn a kraton into a talion.

[@NeighberhoodRC]

So rpm are stronger than stock arms on the exb ?

[@AJJAMStudios]

More durable

[@NeighberhoodRC]

@@AJJAMStudios what about aluminum arms are rpm ones stronger than aluminum?

[@AJJAMStudios]

We do not approve of aluminum because they transfer too much force against the hinge pins and other internals during an impact. We like flexibility.

[@Victic005]

You put the Mojave wheels on the Kraton? I just don't jump.

[@AJJAMStudios]

Yes we did. For speed and better handling the Mojave wheels work better, but the bashing is better with the stock ones. We swap out wheels and tires a lot to see how things work but that does not mean we leave them that way. We try to choose the ones that work best for each situation. Check out "RC Tires 101" in the 101 playlist, it may explain this better for you. Thanks for the comment. AJ

[@Victic005]

@@AJJAMStudios that mean I can simply put the Kraton arms and drive shafts on my Mojave.

[@AJJAMStudios]

There is a bit more to it, but yes, you can. Keep in mind the wider stance, which means you'll need to extend the steering links, drive shafts, and arms to get it all working. And look to see if the shocks mount in the same place as the stock arms. If they don't you may need to swap out the shocks to get the right length.

[@sniperowlG]

To clarify before I purchase, the front are a direct match and the back you need the v4 sway bar.

[@AJJAMStudios]

Correct. Plus, you need the shock pins for the rear from the V4 as well. Thanks for asking. AJ

[@letsgetitrc]

You also run the v4 pins in the front

[@Alphabet7]

What happened to your camera it's really bad quality now

[@AJJAMStudios]

As always, it is a work in progress. Having a new channel means experimentation. I am trying to get the best quality I can. Thanks for letting me know things have changed. I will endeavor to do better. AJ

[@Commenttrolle]

RPM Make version 5 arms Though? There alot thicker and no need for this , i know as i just installed them

[@AJJAMStudios]

When we did this video (a couple of years ago) V4 was all they had. We’ve done newer vids using the V5 arms. Thanks for commenting 😎👍

[@Commenttrolle]

@@AJJAMStudios ahh makes sense