KZ 1100 Starter Clutch Repair 1982 KZ1100 or KZ1000

[@madmark8623]

Use a slide hammer - the shaft is tapered. The hard part is locking the engine to get the flywheel bolt off. We pulled a plug, made sure the engine was on the compression stroke and fed in a BUNCH of leather boot lace to fill the cylnder and lock the engine.

[@TheBarryBiker]

Watched the video again last week before changing out my starter clutch. The clutch looked OK, problem was with the rubber damping/washer behind the large starter gear. originally 7.3mm thick, it had flattened to only 5mm thick and was not placing sufficient drag on the starter mechanism. Replaced the dampner with the original 7.3mm size. Symptom was starter clutch slipping. The new starter clutch did not come with the starter clutch plate, had to re-use the old plate. Good video, Thanks

[@markhall7646]

Thanks for the vid on this. My '83 KZ1100 A-3 starter clutch was an easy fix! Keep 'em coming.

[@Shannonbeau]

I've read a couple of comments about a spacer plate that I may have missed, I didn't have any left over parts, nor do I actually remember there being a spacer plate in there from the beginning, I'll look at the manual and see what I missed. Thank you for the comments, and I'm glad this helped some of you. I have to do this again as I think I actually need to replace the gear since there is some play in it. And I need to actually Torque spec tighten those allen bolts down too. Lazy guy thinking I am tough enough.. lol

[@psuedonymephedra]

Thanks for the tip about Z1enterprises...

[@lprince3884]

nice video is actually easier than I thought

[@TheBarryBiker]

I agree with A. Hamilton. The starter clutch plate was not put in there. It goes on the rotor side of the starter clutch and holds the rollers in place. Kawasaki part 92026B on part diagrams. It might be best just to get a complete new starter clutch PN 13193. Have a 1981 LTD1000 K1 J. Barry

[@1Dougloid]

Very useful, same clutch in my KZ750 I noticed that the Z1 plungers are a bit longer than the originals. I prolly woulda used a torque wrench and cleaned everything with acetone or lacquer thinner before reassembly just to make sure those bolts stay put.

[@jeffdennis905]

Very good for not having any experience

[@jackdressel475]

Thank you!

[@realworldautomotive]

No mention of the damper washer behind the flywheel? Looks like you didn't even notice it was stuck to the flywheel. Important thing to check. There are 3 different sizes to adjust and eliminate crank endplay rattle.

[@Shannonbeau]

Less than a year later, back in September after this video was made... One of the springs went bad again, however, I waited until now to repair it. After removing the clutch again, All 3 of the bolts that hold the clutch to the rotor were loose again. I either didn't use enough threadlocker or I needed to clean any oil from the hole first. Not sure, but I'm trying it one more time and I'll remove it in 500 miles and see if they are still tight. I'll let you know what happens.

[@karlkrause6679]

Really helpful video. What did you use too hold the rotor? part # 57001-308 is impossible to find, need help on my own kz.

[@JnJShiffler]

I have a 81 KZ750 LTD (LZ750H2) and having starting issues. The clymer manual suggests the clutch gear is in the internal gear train near the middle of the gear housing. 1Dougloid, you have a 4cylinder? Is the starter clutch on the outside? I try to start and gears catch a bit but then you can hear two noises: one being what sounds like gear teeth skipping off each other fast,the 2nd sound is the start motor spinning faster and faster like it lost it's gear coupling or something.

[@HanzelikR]

Maybe the bolts need to be taught at a specific torque mentioned in the service manual of the bike, using a torque wrench.

[@user-wx1ir2mw1r]

I have a question, in kz 650 c2 the starter clutch is in this same place?

[@vicinitydigitaldesig]

Thanks for the video. Think i have the same problem but on KZ250. The starter motor spins without engaging and i'm able to jump start the bike, so i guess it's somewhere in there. I don't know much about engine repairs however i am really good with my hands so i'm going to try and do it myself. Think the KZ250 has a chain in that part also, so maybe it's that? Anyway, thanks, as it helped toput it in perspective a little. And do you need a new gasket once having removed the side?

[@YouCantSawSawdust]

I LOVE Sunkist......

[@jtowers93]

What did it sound like when the starter clutch went out? I think my starter clutch on my '94 Yamaha Virago XV535 might not be working properly. It's making a very nasty grinding noise!

[@ericheine2414]

I'd like to see a video on replacing a clutch on a Kawasaki GPZ 1100 1982. Do you know of such a video?

[@MyWorldAt7]

will this be the same for any other bike? im thinking of buying a bike and i can get a great deal for one but it has a non working starter clutch

[@FGX318]

Hello, Currently trying to get the rotor out on my 79 kz1000 st. Is it supposed to "bang" out suddenly or to slide out. I managed to get it slid approx 5mm but still unable to pull it out... Any clues ?

[@petercox9901]

Hi Do you know if the starter clutch kit from the ZZ1100R will bolt into the GPZ 1100 engine I have an ELR Z1100R1 with pretty high compression, l have heard that they are stronger springs but otherwise identical look forward to your thoughts, Regard from Aus.

[@ThePrinceofCatz]

I'm doing the same job to an 82' kz750ltd with the 4 cyl. I've tapped the secondary shaft towards the clutch side till the bearing exited but it won't travel any further due to the starter driven gear between the starter clutch and where the oil pump usually is (already removed of course). Does anyone know if that little circlip on the (seated position) left end of the shaft removes everything?

[@andyh9164]

Hi. you did not show the starter clutch spacer plate. Does your clutch have one? I have a 1984 KZ1000 P3

[@dexcoon]

When you removed that center bolt to remove the rotor was it standard threaded? (righty tighty lefty loosy) I'm having a hard time loosening it and I don't wanna shear it

[@Shannonbeau]

Honestly, I cannot remember. And I am just now seeing this comment so sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. The book tells which way, but I think it was actually standard. Need a special tool to get that off after that bolt comes out, special tool is a longer bolt with different threading.

[@djko_kane]

I'm having issues I've replaced bearings and Springs in my 1978 kz1000 needle bearings are fine but 3-4 starts after it slips and grinds making the ugliest sound

[@SmokyOwl]

How the F did you get the clutch OFF??? I don't know where I'm supposed to put the puller grips behind, but I put em behind the main big pulley with the magnets and I'm cranking like mad and nothings moving....EDIT: and now I just shattered a magnet.

[@karlkrause6679]

SmokyOwl Ouch, that sucks. I'm looking for a rotor holder myself

[@UncleRobsGarage]

Buy a motion Pro puller it is a bolts and screws in removes the stator rotor whatever you want to call it easily with an impact. Do not attempt to grip the outside of the rotor you'll break the magnets.

[@Shannonbeau]

Sorry. There is a bolt tool that goes into the center that pulls it right off with an impact. No traditional puller will do it and yes you'll bust magnets. Sorry for the long delay in this response.

[@pieteropdam8954]

@@Shannonbeau is it possible to use the rearwheel axle its tread to get the rotor off?

[@lundyracing]

Yes, I have heard the rear axle is the same thread and size as the puller tool. A bolt from the hardware store works fine too, just have to grind the end flat so it doesn’t bite into the crank.

[@josephbaldwin1243]

you forgot to put the spacer on your flywheel part number 92026

[@Shannonbeau]

I'll look into that, but I don't remember missing that. Actually, I don't remember there being a spacer left over when I was done. But thanks for the note.

[@jameskrankel3464]

James krankel