La bambina samuele 7b+ (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)

La bambina Samuele 7b+ is a wonderful route in Cassano Valcuvia Alta Crag. It’s long about 25 meters and it can be divided in four parts: the boulder problem at the start, 5/6 spicy moves on vertical holds and bad footholds; then there is some easy, fun and slabby climbing around 6b itself on good holds; then there is the crux of the route, a section with yellow limestone with 7/8 pensionary moves on small crimps and chipped pockets, that could be on his own like 6C boulder; after this there is a nice rest and then nice climbing on okay holds on a sort of overhanging wall.
This last part can be done in two different ways, the first, staying more to the right on small crimps, but is very very hard and not logical; the second way is staying more to the left, taking the good holds and climbing “easily” to the top. I think that staying to the left is easier and more logical, it’s make nonsense to climb on bad holds, when you have near to you some super good holds. I climbed the upper part the first way.
Overall the route is very fun, bouldery, fingery and beauty. On my Onsight attempt I almost climbed the upper crux, but because I was scared of clipping the quickdraw I had to climb backward and hang on the rope; after that I spend quite a lot of time figuring out the best beta on the crux, that allowed me also to clip.
I did the route on my second attempt quite easily. I think the difficulty is similar to the near Bue maschiato 7b, while the other route I did “Uno io, Uno te” 7b+ is way harder in my opinion. I think a correct grade could be 7b/+ or 7b+ soft.
Anyway super stoked to have climbed it. 5 star route.
8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user...
Instagram: @garrasinho / garrasinho