Auto Body Primer Surfacer: The Secret to Perfect Body Work

The secret or key to perfect body work and body lines is through block sanding auto body primer surfacer. This video explains that process along with tips for getting perfectly straight body lines.
/ @lakesideautobody

[@glennsmith5921]

Your videos have helped me with a major project on my 03 Dodge Dakota with typical northern bedsides! I have a automotive background but never did any major body work until now! With you're help I'm 3/4 the way through with this project! I fully understand the labor,and expertise involved now,fully! I just wanted to thank you for making these videos,I don't think I could have done this without you're patient teaching! Thank you sir,very much! You are a great teacher,very knowledgeable!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks so much Glenn. I'm glad to hear the videos help out. I appreciate the support and kind words - makes my day - really. Let me know how your project turns out - and always feel free to ask any ?s you have. Have a good week 🏈

[@rockyhamilton6664]

Your so welcome, I look forward to learning from all your videos. I went to a tech school for autobody, but your so much of a better teacher!! Please keep teaching!! Rocky Hamilton, Galveston Indiana.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'll do that. Glad you enjoy the channel my friend :)

[@stephenrocque8458]

Lakeside - you are a very good mentor for body work - I really enjoy your videos - Steve from Canada

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I'm glad you enjoy them and hope they help you out. Feel free to ask any ? no matter how easy it seems - the smartest people aren't afraid to say, "I don't know." and ask ?s

[@AB-C1]

Great video! I've been watching quite a few of your videos and they're great very informative and concise! No bull and not too drawn out! Just to the point, easy to follow, great tips and EXACTLY what I need as a novice.. Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that A BC. I'm glad you like them. Greetings from Lake St Helen, MI.

[@gergemall]

I'm learning so much and taking risks to learn new skills. Thank you for giving me confidence to just do it.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You are so welcome - glad to hear your trying it. Keep me posted on your progress or ?s - Jerry

[@ronaldlewis4032]

Cool I got my doors straight and primed today and tomorrow I will block sand them. I was able to sand and fill then block sand then re prime . They are looking good after using the long block for sanding thanks for sharing your videos!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you found it useful :)

[@oldergeologist]

Great video. Your trade must be one of the last that can be described as a craft.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you - glad you appreciate it

[@michaelchapman1004]

It's an art I am trying every single day to to learn. It's not for the faint-hearted

[@LakesideAutobody]

Like guitar.

[@Redhackle]

Best body guy on KZbin for the DYI guy at home.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - all the methods on this channel are skills and methods still very much used and needed in professional shops today.

[@NeonBlazeMusic]

Love your channel, have been watching for some months now.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for watching Andrey - glad you enjoy the content :)

[@rodmacisaac5963]

Thanks Jerry!

[@gergemall]

Another great video. I purchased those hand sanding tools and my work is much better.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍

[@DanTheManIOM]

Was sanding last night, 1965 vw bus rear hatch which I cover the whole area with evercote. it sat over night, and hit it with 80 and eventually hit metal and when I did, I heard the voice, when you hit metal, you need to stop. I way underestimated how much filler the large area would take...and second batch did not have enough hardener, well, you learn since it was gumming up 80 grit the next day....good thing materials are in the tuition fee !

[@LakesideAutobody]

Great story - thanks :)

[@DanTheManIOM]

@@LakesideAutobody no, it's you. Thank you ! I come here seeking wisdom, no nonsense education and learning, to get skill and speed....(insert great guitar rift here)

[@rubenarizmendicortes6366]

Really good job! Thanks for sharing!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you so much - glad you enjoyed it.

[@rwtfallenjf25132]

Excellent video. Me personally, I do the same thing when I hit metal, except i just rattle can primer over all the metal spots once i have finished. Ive been painting cars for a few months now as a hobby on the weekend to get a little extra cash flow. I have learned that for what ever reason, when I use a DA for anything other than knocking down, I always get pigtails. Wet sanding the clear, pig tails, and i cant buff them out all the way. Have you run into this issue before?

[@LakesideAutobody]

If you are talking about those little curly scratches left from the DA - yes, I have had a few of them show up if the paint is too thin. If that continues for you, you might want to finish sand with a finer paper like 240 or 320 on the DA or prime then wet sand before painting - let me know how you solved it if you do. Jerry

[@greg6107]

Thanks for sharing as always great knowledge from a true professional.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - thanks for watching :)

[@jameshankssr466]

I’ve been a body man for 45yrs and i can tell you this guy is a joke a real bodyman does not need tape to get straight lines i would never let this clown touch my car

[@patrickpeterman4890]

another great video- I find wet sanding with 400 gives superior results-final sanding prior to spraying; thanks PATRICK.P

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - I agree with you

[@klogjo]

I've always had good results doing it that way.

[@davidwood1923]

Wow!... You are a Wealth of Information. Thanks for Sharing

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome David - thanks for watching and the kind words - have a good weekend :)

[@Mikefngarage]

A sharp piece of 150 or 180 works well too. Too many guys try to wear out the sand paper when blocking. A sharp piece of sandpaper is what is important. Never tried 80. I am sure it works well on polyester but on urethane it might be too much.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Try it once just to knock it down a bit on huge, time consuming areas then move to a finer grit. Goes a bit faster. Thanks for watching Mike - Jerry

[@dennisjump8655]

I enjoy your videos because they are drama free and no foul language, just good teaching. I have 2 questions : Is the primer/surfacer the same as 'spray Bondo ' ? The final primer, was that more of the surfacer or was that a different primer ? Sorry, I'm still learning all this for my project.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Dennis, glad you enjoy the videos. Spray Bondo is "Featherfill" or polyester primer. It's literally a spray form of bondo or body filler used if your body work is pretty "off" or you want to do some serious filling w/o shrinkage. Lacquer primer surfacer and/or Urethane primer surfacer are filler primers too but not as thick as the polyester "thin layer of bondo" primer. You can mix primer surfacer primers thick or thin depending on if you are priming for blocking purposes or finish priming. Lacquer primer surfacer is thinned with lacquer thinner and urethane primer surfacer is thinned with reducer. If that doesn't totally answer you ?s let me know - Jerry

[@dennisjump8655]

@@LakesideAutobody So your final coat of primer is the urethane and then the base coat ? BTW, my brother's name was Jerry and he was a body man his whole life. He left me all his tools when he passed and that's what I'm using for my project. Thanks for your help !

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@dennisjump8655 That's cool of your brother to leave you the tools - gotta make good use of them now. Yes that final coat is urethane mixed a bit thin so it goes on nice and smooth - just add a bit more reducer. You can then paint using anything you want - base coat, single stage, etc. The video for painting this car or hood and roof will be uploaded this Friday 4/14 so that should really help you out. Jerry

[@jamesward5721]

We now use surfacer over epoxy primer as the primer-filler isn't very rust resistant - it's great for sanding/levelling, but crap at resisting moisture, whereas epoxy primer is crap at sanding/levelling, but excellent at resisting moisture - so together they work great. Epoxy on first - don't even attempt to sand it - just fire the primer surfacer on top & sand that. The epoxy ensures you have a rock-solid stable surface to work up off. Love your vids btw - always learning stuff. Your "tape the bodyline" Tip gets used daily here on customers vehicles - upped our "clean curves" game no end.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the input James - I appreciate your kind words and glad you enjoy and can use the info in the videos my friend. Not sure if you've seen this vid but it may help with very complex panels - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gH2yoZuOjciUeck Have a great weekend 🛠

[@Titans2138]

Hmm...that's interesting that you use 80 grit initially. I can see why you'd do that. All of the paint I've used says 320 grit but I see how that might not cut enough if my body work isn't spot on. I usually try to get my body work as straight as possible, but maybe I'll try 180 grit on this car that I'm about to prime pretty soon. Both front door are kicking my ass though, but whenever I get them straight. Knocking down all of the highs and shrinking the meal is always what gets me. I try to put filler on when there are still highs and like yesterday, I had to grind off filler to shrink the metal with a stud gun to get rid of tin canning. Thanks.

[@7777dblack]

I'm repairing a hail damaged car. I've filled and block sanded to body filler and I'll be using a urethane fill primer next which will be block sanded again with guide coat. After these steps i planned on using a sealer over the whole car before base clear. Here's my question. What grit should I use before applying sealer and should I sand the sealer before spraying the basecoat. Thanks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

If you use a DA, anything from 240- 320 will work fine for you. You do not need to sand the sealer but make sure the surface is absolutely dust free before the sealer. All/most dust is already on the panel before the first coat - it generally doesn't come from anywhere else except what's already there :)

[@dginta7932]

Gawd, you make it look so easy :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks D - I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the support :)

[@JimVincitore]

Great video! Very cool! THANK YOU!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@alby-y7g]

Great work!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks :)

[@Okie-Tom]

Nice job. Have you shown a video when your using polyester primers? If not I would like to see one. Thanks, Tom

[@LakesideAutobody]

I will do one on that - thanks for the idea - have a great weekend

[@Nextlevelmarine]

@@LakesideAutobody whats the difference between poly primer and primer surfacer

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Nextlevelmarine If you are talking about polyester based primer like feather fill from evercoat - that is a primer surfacer. I used to love that stuff we used it where I worked a lot. It's like spraying a thin layer of filler over your body work giving you tons of blocking material. after you're finished blocking you can prime and finish sand with any common primer then paint.

[@denisiwaszczuk1176]

Hi from Australia. Paint heavy Machinery . repainting ute again .Thanks for refresh and doing rite. Cheers wont go to heavy on paper on straight panels

[@LakesideAutobody]

Hi Denis - you're welcome - glad it helped. Hello from Michigan :)

[@386Clarke]

Hi Jerry, how long should I wait to top coat primer? Can it be done the same day if it’s dry? Also, do you have any opinions on using rustoleum specialty reducer to thin paint?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes you can top coat any type of primer when it dries - the same day too. It's done all the time at body shops. I've looked into Rustoleum and can't determine if it is lacquer, enamel, oil base enamel, etc. So - that being said I would use rustoleum specialty reducer for rustoleum only. Use lacquer thinner to thin lacquer and urethane reducer for urethane. If you are spraying rustoleum, you can use paint thinner, mineral spirits, acetone or like you said Rustoleum Sp. red.

[@delramos7247]

Very informative nice video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you liked it - have a good weekend :)

[@deankay4434]

Just trying to learn about which product, when and technique. The fender had Primer/Surfacer on it. Sanded smooth, then A coat of Primer comes next. Question: Is primer-surfacer thicker? Allowing for room to eliminate sand scratches? Allowing thickness to sand to flat and remove any low spots plus reveal high spots? Let’s say I cleaned using best practices, the stripped this to bare metal. Cleaned & neutralized then sanded w/80 grit. Inspect the metal for rust and other defects. Hammer & dolly as needed but cleaned, tack and air, then sprayed epoxy sealer. No, I have time to defects in the panel. I will more than likely break thru the epoxy when sanding the filler. The brand of epoxy allows for time to apply filler, sand & re-coat with epoxy. As everything feels good and smooth, comes the video. Spray the primer/sealer and block. Clean and inspect for pinholes & defects. If none, apply primer? This cost of materials can run $600 - $900 for a complete restoration and may not include epoxy or media blasting (Never Will) I would use epoxy to seal the panel(s) for moisture, humidity or wet sanding. Why primer? A sealer by itself or epoxy to have paint ready. If I am wrong, let me know as this is mine and the last one. I have planned to design the paint to last 20 years or more. Thanks for the video as that is work to film, edit and upload. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes primer surfacer is a thick filler primer for block sanding out imperfections. Here's the truth on the primer topic. In the 20th century they did not have epoxy primer, urethane primer surfacer, etching primers, etc. They had lacquer primer surfacer and it was used for everything. There were millions of great paint jobs that lasted more than a lifetime. That's the facts. That being said, you don't even need sealer really because your paint IS the sealer. I use lacquer primer surfacer and have no problems with it - folks will say it shrinks, its not water proof - on and on. It worked fine for 100 years because it was used correctly. That being said, If you insist on 2K which is just a fancy way to say 2 part, I would look for a urethane primer surfacer that doesn't require a coat of epoxy first. It's called DTM direct to metal. There are a lot of brands out there that are direct to metal. Then..... If you need to a thick filler primer to hide stuff, mix it thick less reducer. If you need more of a finish sanding coat of primer then mix it thin - more reducer. Same with lacquer primer surfacer - mix thick for blocking - mix thin for finish sanding. Easy! Good think about lacquer primer is you don't have to toss the unused portion - just throw it back in the can. It sands super easy, dries real fast, builds well, cheap, works well, works for every step of the paint job. Let me know what you decide on and if this helped you. Ask more ?s if you need - no worries - Jerry

[@45AMT]

Where can you get that sanding block from? I like the ones with clips so you can use regular paper.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Google this - Keysco Tools 77526

[@Okie-Tom]

Very good. As Rich Davis said in one of his videos, "The Block Never Lies". I want to ask. Do you always sand until you hit metal somewhere? To make sure you didn't leave too much primer and filler on a panel? And how do you keep the little rings around edge of the filler from showing up, where it meets the metal. I think that is a hard one to learn for a lot of people. Thank you Sir!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Awesome ?'s! I do that more often with primer than I do with filler. With filler I just sand the whole area at once. When the edges start to feather in, I know I'm close - then I use 80 grit to finish. IOW, I take the whole filler area down evenly - never staying in one area. That takes care of the rings around the edges too. You can always count on blocking your primer to eliminate those rings too. Or use feather fill (super thick primer). Good to hear from you always - Jerry

[@Titans2138]

I'm not talking about this video in particular but you must get a lot of shit from painters and body men but if your final job turns out good and the customer is happy, that's all that matters. It's amazing some of the dents you pull. I always struggle with "should I just buy a door at a junkyard for $100?" or "should I spend 3+ days pulling the dent and filling it?" Obviously, that only works on the easy removable parts. Like right now, I'm thinking I should've just bought a door and fenders but that cuts into my profits for when I sell the car. Although, how much is time worth? I'm not afraid to work so my time usually doesn't seem that valuable and hopefully I'll learn something that will help a future job. Thanks.

[@MePeterNicholls]

I could watch a lot more from you!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - that's great to hear. I have a lot more to upload for sure. Jerry

[@almierz4604]

What is the difference between primer surfacer and primer sealer, which goes on first thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good ? Primer surfacer goes on first - it builds fast and thick so that you have a thick layer to block out any slight imperfections. Primer sealer would go on second. After you finish sand the primer surfacer you would use the sealer then paint. You don't have to sand sealer before painting. You don't have to use sealer either if you don't want to pay for it. You can paint right over the finish sanded primer surfacer.

[@curbo34]

To expand on that, some people like to spray a primer sealer, then primer surfacer over that and sand till you're happy with the finish, then another layer of (generally thinned) sealer, then paint. You by no means have to use a dedicated sealer, since the paint will act as a sealer. For general collision repair I would stick to doing it as he has outlined in all his videos, fantastic work, love to see some practical body repair methods.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@curbo34 Thanks for adding on and the good tips - glad you appreciate the content. Have a great week. Enjoy the playoffs if you watch them.

[@klogjo]

@@LakesideAutobody I use sealers on metal cars just before I paint, not so much on fiberglass.

[@roadstar499]

okay so did those last 3 light coats fill those 2 low spots towards the top of panel? i guess they must have since you said its ready for paint after final sanding...thax

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes. There's some things you can do if they didn't though. 1) Fill them with putty 2) Fill with very thin layer of regular body filler (works - but not a best practice) 3) Use a product called feather fill which is basically like spraying a very thin layer of body filler - It's a very thick primer surfacer - awesome! if your body work is a little off.

[@johnsutter1497]

Does sandblasting clean the weld better and how much pressure is on your mig Welder regulator thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

20 cfh on the gas (just following the instructions that came w/ the welder) - I like to sand blast the welds 'cause it does clean them faster and I just feel the filler sticks really well as opposed to wire brushing them, etc.

[@ivor7407]

Applying the right pressure of your sanding block makes a difference.

[@LakesideAutobody]

A huge difference Ivor - you're right. Don't want to press too hard :)

[@73superglide62]

Great on camera

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you liked it :)

[@williamwebster213]

of all the years ive been doing autobody, it still really bothers me to see somebody rub their hand across the work surface, in my head i automatically think 'there's going to be a problem there'.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I do it all the time. Even right before painting to make sure there is absolutely no dust, then one more wipe the tack cloth - never, ever get fish eyes. That might be if you worked with grease or something or maybe my hands are dry as a bone :)

[@ronaldlewis4032]

I put my hands on it too I just can't feel the surface with gloves on really I can't do anything with gloves I know I need to protect my body but! Lol

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

I have a project to repaint the roof of my pickup. The clear coat has failed. I need to sand through all of the clear coat. What do I look for to tell that I am through the clear coat in a particular area?

[@LakesideAutobody]

The dust of the clear coat will be white and your paper will have white dust on it. When you get to the color you'll get colored dust and the sand paper will reveal that color. You should be able to see it break through the clear too. You don't really have to sand off the clear that is still good. Just DA sand the panel removing/feathering the failed clear. Once you prime and paint it, that old factory paint will be buried forever - it won't be damaged by the sun and heat any longer thus will be fine.

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! That makes a lot of sense!

[@benkanobe7500]

Was the black spray paint Lacquer or enamel? What type of Primer Surfacer? What type of paint will go on the PS?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Black was enamel. Primer surfacer was lacquer primer from Auto Body Master - local auto value stores

[@jasonevans6720]

Sorry bud so many things just not done like that anymore, your filler work should be straight and finished in 180 before you think of priming just a waste of primer realy, if you rub through your primer and find metal the job hasn't been straightened or filled correctly. You would never finish primer with 320 and paint 600-800 minimum grade prior to paint, I will leave it at that.

[@alansmith5604]

Just imagine what it looks like after 3 months dry time. Tons of 80 grit scratches showing through. Quicky work at best.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's not true. It is completely acceptable to prime over 80 grit on filler and 120-220 DA on paint. You can paint over 220 - 320 - easy. Or wet sand with 320 or 400 then paint. Using too fine of paper causes you to "ride" over imperfections. You always want to "cut" not "ride" - this will really help you get your body work straight.

[@jasonevans6720]

@@LakesideAutobody completely out of date with modern paint, will look terable a few weeks down the line, I have been a painter for 43 years and I now teach paint and bodywork I suggest have a look around and see how other painters have adopted there methods for modern paint

[@ToddMcF2002]

@@LakesideAutobody people fail to understand that this is an art. I've gotten away with so many things that the pros say won't work. I watch everybody paint and then take ideas and rules I like and ones I've made myself. Once a process works for you it pretty much never fails. That's what the "critics" fail to grasp. After "43 years" you'd think they'd have figured it out. Great video as usual.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ToddMcF2002 Thanks for the support - very well said :)

[@fjbowen3155]

Thanks for the video. Do you have water separator and etc. in your air lines? Maybe you could do a video on your air comp. and lines, or is there one already?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I will do a video on that soon - I've had a few folks ask about that. Thanks for your input and have a good weekend. You're welcome BTW :)

[@ronaldlewis4032]

@@LakesideAutobody yes I would like to see what you reccomend on that too ! I have a small one I drain all the time and also added a drop tube with a valve and dump it too when I paint!!Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ronaldlewis4032 Here's a video that should help you with that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYSqcpp3rsp8pKM

[@user-2Hteyasizyc]

Why are people always claiming online that 2k high build primer "shrinks" wouldnt it only shrink under the wrong temperature conditions... too many heavy coats applied to fast and not enough dry time before top coating? I hate how much misinformation there is online. So am i wrong on these things? I just wanna sand my car to the oem paint then use high build 2k primer, sand and paint. Isnt this sufficient?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Primers don't shrink if you use them correctly. Lacquer primer, Urethane, Polyester, Spray Bomb, Epoxy - they all work fine if used correctly. When you get in trouble is when you try to hide stuff with primer i.e. - rust, bad body work, scratches, etc.

[@user-2Hteyasizyc]

@@LakesideAutobody You da man. Always quick responses. Thank you.

[@astarpery6260]

When you have no orange peel in a finish after flattening the clearcoat, but still see a bit of 'waviness' in the panel if you move around while looking into it, is this how you solve that? by having perfectly flat primer below it, sanded by hand? (I'm talking the diff between removing all orange peel in clearcoat where primer may not ebe perfect vs. what you may do on a showcar etc where everything is considered).

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - you want a perfectly flat surface before painting or else you will see those waves. One way to check is to wipe it quickly with some wax and grease remover which shines the primer temporarily so you can see waves if any exist.

[@astarpery6260]

​@@LakesideAutobody thanks for your reply. Does the filler below contribute to the waves, if not perfectly flat? or would filler primer make it unnecessary to flatten first?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@astarpery6260 You'll want to get your filler as flat as possible so that you have less work to do with the primer but "no" if you get the primer surfacer flat then the wavy filler won't show. Your final blocking is what will show :)

[@romonamiller5282]

SoYou don’t use Epoxy primer over a barrel metal Is it necessary?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It is not necessary for lacquer primer surfacer nor is it necessary for many urethane primer surfacers and polyester primer surfacers but it's best to read the can to make sure. I'd find a product that doesn't require that step. Autobody Master Urethane primer surfacer doesn't require a base coat of epoxy for example :)

[@klogjo]

Good video, I would like to see you mixing and putting the filler on, I'm never to old to learn and I like your work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This video may help - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4G9dKiGd56ZmtU Have a great week:)

[@zanaga1901]

Do you use regular primer before primer sealer first wanna know because I have both at home.

[@LakesideAutobody]

In the old days there was just lacquer primer which was primer surfacer, primer, etc. - you used it for everything and then paint over it. So... it depends on what you are using. If you are using epoxy primer then that is a primer/sealer. If you are using urethane, that's a surfacer (builds thickness). Then there is a sealer which you can use to seal everything, cover imperfections, and get it one color before paint. That said, yes use primer surfacer first then primer sealer. Hope that answers your ? - I think I'll do a video soon on just types of primer and their use. Ask again if it didn't help - Jerry

[@LakesideAutobody]

@Lucky Jackson I use lacquer primer surfacer for most jobs - dries fast, sands easy, works well, cheap, builds fast, doesn't harden in the cup. If I need super high build surfacer - like my body work is horrible - I use feather fill by evercoat. 2K is great too just more $ and I don't like throwing the unused portion out.

[@86caliente_18]

I always start from botton working my up top. make my flats true, then tape the bottom part of the body line. and sand the upper part of the fender . that way im not chasing the bottom half if its not truly straight. This way im not running around with the block playing with my tail. this mosly pertains more to the cheese phase haha. nice vid.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - folks often ask about exactly what you're talking about (where to start or finish) - good tips

[@billmiller3425]

The grit doesn't have anything to do with "following the ups and downs" on a panel! It's the pad or block you're using that makes a flat or straight cut.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You always want to "cut through" not "ride over" Fine sand paper clogs faster and thus rides instead of cutting through. Hope that helps you out :)

[@masikazi6951]

Which type of paper u use

[@LakesideAutobody]

I use Autobody Master - but only because it's available locally at the Auto Value auto parts store. Otherwise any brand of green auto body repair grade paper will work for you. If it's super cheap I would test it first :)

[@arthurleino]

Is lacquer primer ok to use with acrylic urethane top coat?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - you can use any top coat with lacquer primer.

[@arthurleino]

Thank you, I know used before on my tanks. But used lacquer top coat.

[@chidexkofi8789]

What type of primer did you spray on the car bro?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Lacquer Primer - I like it cause its cheap, builds fast, you can mix it thin or thick, drys fast, doesn't harden in the cup, and it works great. Remember that's all they had for years and years and a lot of cars looked great.

[@poppaluv]

@@LakesideAutobody can they go on bare metal, filler and scuffed paint/primer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@poppaluv Lacquer primer can go over bare metal, bondo/filler, sanded or scuffed paint. Do not need epoxy primer first - it's DTM direct to metal. Drys super fast, builds quick, doesn't harden in the cup, can return the unused portion back to the can (even if its thinned). Jerry

[@KyleGoerz]

So, between the bare metal and topcoat the only material you sprayed was lacquer primer? No epoxy primer, no sealer needed? I'm just a weekend warrior trying to keep my Minnesota daily driver on the road for a few more years. Love the videos Jerry. I watch them all.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@KyleGoerz Yes - lacquer primer is DTM - direct to metal. Many newer urethane primers are DTM also. Just stick with a one step primer - lot less hassle. Lacquer primer works great for me. Remember before the 90's that's all there was and there were thousands of great paint jobs put out back then. Auto shows, The Autoramma, etc all used lacquer primer. The unused portion doesn't harden in the cup and you can throw it back in the can. It dries super fast, builds fast, blocks easy, cheap, and works just fine if used correctly. I use lacquer thinner from walmart too. I think its called Kleen Srtrip Lacquer Thinner - right around $15. Glad you enjoy the videos my friend :)

[@rossokeefe2577]

What kinda primer surfacer are you using

[@LakesideAutobody]

Lacquer primer by Auto Body Master. $48 / gallon as you use every bit of it on your work because you can throw the unused portion in your cup back into the gallon can.

[@type2523]

what grid do you use before the surfacer?

[@johnwoolfrey5093]

Κώστας Λεούσης the data sheet for the primer should tell you what grit the substrate should be. For surfacer it is typically 180 to 320 grit. Best to go with coarsest grit that does not show through any scratches after it dries. Some products can shrink when it dries and scratches can show through.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Filler is finished off with 80 grit then primed. The paint is feather edged with 120 on up to 220 then primed.

[@stingray6164]

WHAT TYPE PRIMER DO YOU USE

[@LakesideAutobody]

I use lacquer primer but urethane, and polyester primers work good too. I like lacquer because it dries super fast, easy to mix, doesn't harden in the cup, you can throw what you don't use from your cup back in the can, sands easy, builds fast, cheap, safe, etc.

[@stingray6164]

@@LakesideAutobody YEP ME TOO

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stingray6164 It really does work just fine. I've used all the primers and for my own work I gravitate towards lacquer primer. I think it dries the fastest and sands the easiest. If you use it the way it's intended, you'll never have issues :)

[@mikeseguin904]

you were not clear - lacquer primer surfacer or two part urethane primer

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sorry - lacquer primer surfacer is what I used in this video

[@mikeseguin904]

@@LakesideAutobody At 75 I am old school. So primer surfacer (LACQUER) had a familiar ring to it because I used it for many years (DIY) I suspect that it is frowned on today. I am not sure it is even available. Do you have trouble getting it? Do you use the catalyzed primers instead? My 34 Ford is painted Duracril laquer myself. Unfortunately they had to take the good stuff out of it so it is not nearly as good as the lacquer they sold twenty years ago AND it is same or more money than the base clear, urethane, or waterbourne. However it is so easy to bleed but it is not tough or as good so I wont be using it again.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@mikeseguin904 I don't have trouble getting it - I use Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer Surfacer - It's legal in Michigan. I like all primer surfacers - 2K is fine but more $ and sands a bit harder to me - plus you have to throw out the unused portion. lacquer primer dries fast, builds fast, doesn't shrink if used correctly, cheap, you can throw the unused portion back in the can. Feel free to ask any ?s if that didn't help answer yours - Jerry

[@mikeseguin904]

@@LakesideAutobody How do you make sure it does not shrink? I suspect wait 20 minutes between coats at normal room temperature? What do you thin it to 1 to 1?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@mikeseguin904 Yes - actually about 1/1 because it is so thick in the gallon can. I literally made about 60 videos with one gallon of primer because you use every bit of it - don't have to throw any out. The key is don't try to bury bad body work. Deep scratches, wavy filler work, bad body lines, etc. A lot of times guys would put tons of primer surfacer on instead of getting their filler work straight. Three medium coats of lacquer primer surfacer w/ 5-10 minutes in between coats. You can't use it like a spray on body filler. If you need that use Feather Fill - polyester primer surfacer. Jerry

[@ClintonSnow]

Hello, Lakeside Autobody Primer 2k can be wet sanding with 600 grit sandpaper?

[@sleeks9939]

You sure can👍

[@PnwOnTour]

Subscribe folks, great advice 💥

[@soulessm8015]

GOOD SHIT! NOT CACA! 👍😁🇲🇽

[@blurredlinez5136]

Oh my God! Never ever go sanding and every direction, just in angles. This guy just destroyed his work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

With respect, that's completely untrue. It's actually best to do what you need to do to get the panel straight. The rule of thumb is just don't do the same stroke over and over - mix it up. When working filler its excellent to do criss cross patterns, circles, etc - as long as you are canceling out the previous strokes, you're good - hope that makes sense for you :)

[@jameshankssr466]

@@LakesideAutobody 🤣😂🤣

[@tchrisou812]

Is "primer surfacer" and "primer filler" the same stuff?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes

[@stanleylosh1899]

Liking the old school blocks. I still use mine.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Old school works for me - it's cheaper too 👍😁

[@robertmccully2792]

Ok don't have any flat area's on my car, every thing is curved!.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's OK - the idea and blocking strategies are the same on flat and curved surfaces - you use the same blocks and procedures.

[@ars4525]

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge .

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Adrian - have a good weekend :)

[@chrisholifield8571]

I recently bought an old vehicle that i am going to repaint. The paint is peeled and it appears to have primer surfacer. The primer surfacer has cracks in it. Any ideas on what causes this?

[@LakesideAutobody]

There's a variety of things that can cause this but a common cause is one type of paint reacting poorly to another - like lacquer paint or primer over relatively new enamel or other paints. When it's cracked like that You have two choices. Strip it down to bare metal or DA sand, coat with www.eastwood.com/featherfill-g2-gray-gallon.html?SRCCODE=TXT00020&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij2BRBdEiwA0Frc9S5BmLX_j1-2quWEL1SecmO91vqb0E7AbxqolA2fUJTMOJK9I_4DRBoC8l0QAvD_BwE or something similar then block sand, prime again, finish sand and paint.

[@angelgarcias7328]

Whatt saing paper are you used staring to finich thank good video

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can finish sand with anything from 220 - 400. 220, 240 is good for DA sanding - 320 , 400 is good for hand sanding or wet sanding :)

[@angelgarcias7328]

@@LakesideAutobody ok thank s much

[@jakefriesenjake]

@@LakesideAutobody what about sanding to 600 for your metallic paints? Or would you recommend regular primer, sanded to 320, then the final primer sealer (no sand), then straight to metallic paint? Another question, I'm doing all the body work on my 81 Camaro, then I'll be giving it to a shop to finish it off. He says he'll be shooting more primer, letting it sit for a week or so to let it shrink, then block sanding it to 400 or 600. Then he'll do it again, prime and let sit for a week, then block sand it to 600 and then block it to 1000. All the research I've done suggests the final block sand should be 600, or 800 absolute max, for the metallic paint to stick. He also doesn't like the final "no sand" primer sealer that you spray on just before the paint job. Any suggestions?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@jakefriesenjake Here's the rule no matter what else you hear. If you do your body work right you don't have to worry about primer shrinking. That means no deep scratches left, pits, stuff you are covering up with primer. 2K (2 part) primer doesn't shrink - lacquer primer used to be known for this but again if you do the body work right - no prob.. Here's the process used in body shops all over the US. Do your bodywork - bondo to 80 grit - feather edge paint to 120 - out further with 220=240 or scuff. Prime with primer surfacer (2k or 1k), block sand with 120-150, prime again, finish sand with 400-600, use sealer if you want - it's engineered to be sprayed after final sanding to fill in any imperfections left - paint will stick - no worries - ever, then spray the base coat metallic color, wait 1/2 hour, 2 coats of clear. Done. That's how it's done in dealerships around Michigan - maybe a few differences but generally that's it. These guys aren't waiting days for the stuff to shrink - they get it out and it's perfect for years.

[@jakefriesenjake]

@@LakesideAutobody OK thanks. I appreciate it.

[@andyscott3099]

Would you spray primer surfacer straight onto bare metal? Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - It's good to DA sand the bare metal first though. I don't think the factory uses an abrasive before priming and I've seen paint and primer blow right off of cars.

[@lucasellyson6872]

Ive got an 2014 f-150. The paint just blew off the tailgate. Its white. Ive seen several white f-150 s in white have the same problem. Maybe because they werent sanded or blasted rough prior to primer?