Land Rover LR4, Range Rover 5.0L V8 Water Pump, Front and Rear Coolant Pipe Replacement

In this video I replace a leaking front coolant pipe, rear coolant pipe, and water pump on my LR4. This work applies to all Land Rover vehicles with the 5.0L V8 AND the 3.0 V6.

[@vannjunkin8041]

Wow you just simplified this amazingly 👏

[@paulcaudle6275]

Super awesome video!!! Much appreciated 🙏

[@wehtjns]

Nice thank you sir. I’m about to do this today myself. So, this is very helpful.

[@sstoess1]

Great job Evan. Thanks so much!

[@constantinoleandro7448]

Great job my friend thank you for doing goog video

[@dafyddc9202]

Thanks ! Great video

[@MichaelMcCaleb]

I'm about to start this project and really appreciate your video! If you had to do it again, would you remove the clamshell first ( 10:30) around the rear wiring harness to make more room for accessing the T30 bolts to remove the old rear pipe (9:00)?

[@evandoeseverything174]

Yes! It doesn't take that long to remove the clamshell plastic piece and it makes your life so much easier.

[@davidspence2072]

Hi Evan, great video. Just out of curiosity, would you be able to replace the coolant temp sensor on that rear crossover pipe without having to remove the intake? Believe I have a bad sensor but my pipe is fine. Cheers man!

[@evandoeseverything174]

Great question! I'm honestly not sure. The biggest issue behind the intake manifold is the wiring harness, and I'm afraid that with the intake manifold in place you won't be able to move that wiring harness around enough to be able to get the sensor out. My guess is that you'll need to remove the intake manifold.

[@user-sv8cd2xf7j]

Excellent Video. I am about to start this project with a 2014 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged. It has 145,000 miles, and I just want to do some preventative maintenance on it. Out of curiosity, about how many hours did this take you? I want to give my mechanic a heads up before he and I start the project. Thanks for any help.

[@evandoeseverything174]

Not sure how many hours, but I did this over two weekends with the exception of having to wait for my new injector puller tool after my first one failed. I would not do the job simply as preventative maintenance. The timing chains/guides are not something that will catastrophically fail. You'll hear diesel-like clatter or get a check engine light for cam/crank correlation error long before. If everything is fine now, I'd leave it that way.

[@user-sv8cd2xf7j]

Great, thanks for the reply.

[@evizzy1]

Hey man, great video! I am about to do this on mine and your video was the best out there honestly. Does the coolant pretty much just bleed itself through that valve? no special tricks?

[@evandoeseverything174]

The best way about it is just to be patient, I don't mess with the bleed screws. Fill up the coolant tank to the cold fill max, and then start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 min. Turn it off and let it cool down for an hour or so, then top it off again. Do this a couple times. You can also take the vehicle for a quick drive around the block (~5 minutes) to circulate the coolant and push air bubbles out a bit faster, and again shut it off and let cool down between top ups. Eventually is won't take anymore coolant. Also, monitor your temp gauge closely on those short drives.

[@bobbymolak3364]

Hey Evan, thank you for the video… Question for you is did you use originally equipment parts for those or did you use aftermarket parts ?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[@evandoeseverything174]

I used aftermarket parts from Atlantic British.@@bobbymolak3364

[@bobbymolak3364]

@@evandoeseverything174 Thank You …. Very Much Appreciated ✌🏼

[@matthewdeinlein4992]

I had to do my Y pipe as well. Got it all back together and now have a P0660 intake manifold tuning code. I’ve triple checked air connections and can’t find and air leak anywhere. Do you have to recalibrate anything or just plug everything back in?

[@liampatterson261]

No calibration or anything, if everything is plugged in properly that’s all you need. Your code is almost certainly caused by a disconnected vacuum line or your intake manifold gaskets are not providing adequate seal. I highly recommend you check the vacuum lines at the rear of the intake manifold.

[@matthewdeinlein4992]

@@liampatterson261 it was a plug on the backside of the manifold. You guys are great!!

[@johnbuenger]

There is also a vacuum line that plugs into the back side of the center air plenum on the left/driver side. Super easy to miss. It was unplugged on mine and caused all kinds of problems. I could not figure it out for anything. Finally just started yanking parts off and saw an open hose.

[@Jabullz]

Any reason you didn't make the switch to green coolant or use the aluminum crossover pipe?

[@evandoeseverything174]

The orange Dex-cool stuff is the OEM fluid so that's what I run. To my knowledge there is not an aluminum version of the cross-over pipe for the non-supercharged 5.0 V8's available.

[@raisingarizona9693]

There is a guy on the Land Rover forum working on a metal rear crossover but he is still developing it with a patent pending. As far as I know, he is not ready to sell it.