Landcruiser Swivel Hub Rebuild Part 1 - Teardown

[@Buildin70s]

Part 2 coming next week!

[@simonsmith1352]

why do you have all my dream cars hhahah

[@Layneigan720]

Thanks man adding this to my collection for when I have to change mine out 🤙🏼

[@brettellis8439]

Good job keep up the good work

[@charliemckenna9102]

So keen for more vids mate!

[@Buildin70s]

Plenty of videos coming should have a new video a week hopefully till the end of the year!

[@paulkeys175]

Another hint when putting new bearings in. Cut the old race with a 1mm disc, there is your sprung insertion tool that wont get stuck or damage new bearing.

[@Farmer2492]

Hi great Video whats the best way to adjust rear brakes as it has 2 adjusters one for top shoe and one for bottom shoe

[@paulkeys175]

Swivel hubs are called barfield joints, helpful when ordering kits.

[@remoman]

Similar setup on the land rovers but the swivel ball is bolt on, not part of the axle.

[@paulkeys175]

Also be very careful with the king pin bushes that they ARE the right thickness and go back in the right spot. If you have put a lift kit in, or put new bearings on old suspension, you can change the castor angle and get what is aptly named the DEATH wobble. I chased this problem for months on my 75 series, ended up putting 2° castor bushes under my spring packs to stay alive.

[@scod3908]

The shims set the bearing preload and axle centring. If it's too loose, especially with large tyres, it can exacerbate steering issues like incorrect castor. Castor issues usually caused by lifted leaf packs, and is greatly affected by extended shackles

[@djlewis78]

Nice work and thanks for the information - do you know what the separating tool name is?

[@Buildin70s]

Its a ball joint separator got it from super cheap auto

[@tylerworsley9390]

Great vid and easy to understand🤙🏻 How’s the 4x4 track going?

[@Buildin70s]

Cheers mate, nothing new on the track yet but its on the list of things to do

[@christopherpoulton9124]

So what tightness have people used on the Nuts you decided not to share?

[@MrJarmore]

Great video as always but can’t agree with you on the ball joint splitters. They absolutely ruin tie rod end boots, Letting dirt in and grease out. Also, not a good idea to hit the sides of the flanges for cone washers. You warp the flange face and can cause broken studs etc (especially on the rear axle) best way to remove them is a brass drift on the tip of the stud Cheers

[@Buildin70s]

Done it a far few times with the ball joint splitter, never had any issues. Brass drift looks like the way to go looks like ill be using one from now on, cheers mate

[@cristianojoana1898]

With a drift brass you still can deform ou bend the stud.. the bestway is a brass hammer around the hub but not on the flange and then antisieze on the cone washer.. easier next time.

[@MrJarmore]

@@cristianojoana1898 if you hit the tip of the stud you can't bend it. If you look ay the end of them they've got extra meat just in case you hit em too hard as well. I can't agree with hitting the hub, they are alloy and are very soft. And if you hjt the axle flange on the rear even with a brass hammer you'll start to deform the mating surface and start snapping studs. Anti sieze js a good ides though!

[@cristianojoana1898]

@@MrJarmore first time i messed with an landcruiser i tried hitting the stud with a brass drift and it work but didnt like the idea.. the way i take them out is hitting the HUB not the flange of the locker .. i mean steel hub with a brass hammer works perfect if you but antisieze one them..

[@one1shot1shaun]

Just saying premieres get less views

[@Buildin70s]

oh really, I only posted it as a premiere an hour ago so may not be as bad? Well too late now haha

[@one1shot1shaun]

@@Buildin70s yeah I find alot of people come to watch it and then leave and don't remember to come back