Landroid - A Better Blade Mount

The existing Landroid blade mount is flawed. After a few lawn mows, cut grass can accumulate beneath the blades. This prevents the blade/s from being able to rotate around their mounting screw, as designed. After some experimentation, I was able to find a way to mount these blades so that their freedom to rotate is always maintained.

[@pauladigby1651]

I followed your instruction video and as you said it solved the problem. Many thanks.

[@KeyMakers]

thats the first thing that came to mind when I saw its blade setup (it needs a washer) ... cool to see someone show it working ... yeah - cheers

[@1kreature]

It is not a batter way as the washer now prevents the blade from sitting loosely on it's peg and you are instead dangling it off the undersized screw by loosening the screw a bit. The screw can now come loose or work itself out and be torn off. Ideally they would have given the blade a taller post to sit on but they didn't. A small tube section on the screw extending this small post on the base by 1-2mm has same effect but allows for secure installation of the screw.

[@wordcarr8750]

Thanks for the time you took to comment. If I read it correctly, your main concern seems to be that the blade mounting screw (it's not undersized, it's the same one normally used) may come loose in the suggested improved mount. That's not going to happen if done in the way video shows...i.e. tighten screw all the way and then back off, one-half or a full turn just to give blade the freedom to rotate. There is no unscrewing (counter-clockwise) torque created on the blade mount screws by the operation of the cutting disk. Indeed there is no need for thread-locker on these screws.

[@1kreature]

@@wordcarr8750 It's a balancing act between supporting the blade and not getting things stuck in it. If the blades can't flip away easily they get damaged sooner, but if they are loose on a screw they are allowed to twist and when I tested this it created more noise. After a week the buildup got the blades stuck again anyways. The pegs could have been a tad higher but it may not matter. Biggest thing we can do to these mowers is fix the poor wheels. We can't do anything with the offset torque of rear wheels trying to drag the front nosewheel out of a larger dimple in the lawn it created earlier with the wheels while stuck on another minor dimple. I like the cut-to edge, but navigation even with all sensors is sad and it turns the wrong way when encountering the border wire in a slope.

[@rudolf1165]

Best video to one of the problems facing with Landroid, appreciate.

[@uwelord9866]

Great simple solution 👍🏾

[@michaeldisalvo]

I’m down. I will give it a try. I am also installing the metal spike disks on the wheels soon! Maybe a new paint job for Landroid. I am thinking Gold. Shiny Gold!

[@jimkadel3003]

2022 Update => I've found over a year's experience, later, that to keep blades *free to rotate* in *all* 'high grass' situations, it's necessary to put a small, 6mm long, plastic spacer under the blade, instead of the washer described in this video. I purchased a set of these spacers in kit form from Amazon {link below}. I also leave the blades mounted loose, that is, the outboard end of the blade points downward, not nearly horizontal, when held by screw and disk is not rotating. (screw won't come loose and fall out as long as its several turns into its mating grove) A *high grass* situation can occur whenever the Landroid is prevented from maintaining its regular weekly mowing schedule, as when a rainy period interrupts. Also, at the start of season when grass may be much higher than when under Landroid control. I used the shortest of these spacers (6 mm height). It's a good idea to have an M4 screw kit of varying lengths like: www.amazon.com/Sutemribor-240Pcs-Stainless-Button-Assortment/dp/B07CYM1N8R/ref=sr_1_1?crid=9L9V5MNWLBQ3&keywords=M4+screws&qid=1658480434&sprefix=m4+screws%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-1 Here is the spacer kit: www.amazon.com/Spacer-Metric-Plastic-Insulation-Standoff/dp/B07XC4RTR3/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1M8E4ZGQCLQEI&keywords=plastic+spacers+for+%236+screw&qid=1658478973&sprefix=plastic+spacers+for+6+screw%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-8

[@DINSTAAR-FPV]

Thanks for the update, Jim! Will give the spacers a try!

[@HectorPerez-tb8hn]

regular maintenance and not cutting the grass when wet should do just fine ?

[@barnsisback8524]

Brilliant 👍

[@singapuris]

Is it Walter White talking?

[@alvarohernandez2764]

I dont think the blades are ment to spin while running, the long part should stay extended as the plate spins. The only reason the blades are free to spin, is in case the blades hit something solid like a rock, they will be able to bounce back and not absorb all the damage. You would then sharpen out a small dent rather than a huge chip.

[@jimkadel3003]

Yes, when the cutting disk is turning, the blades are thrown radially outward into a fixed position. And you are correct in that the freedom to rotate on their pivot screws allows far less blade damage should a 'hard object' be hit. However, also, if the blades can't rotate because of the continued presence of cut grass between the disk and blade, then when/if the blades strike a hard object there is a possibility the disk itself may break at/near the blade mounting screw which is at the edge of disk. [this is not a frequent occurrence but has happened and I believe the cause is as stated]

[@alvarohernandez2764]

@Jim Kadel Really? I thought such impact would loosen the stuck grass and blade before it could ever hurt the plastic that way. But that's good to know. It is always a good idea to try to keep the lawn clear. Especially if you have kids that like to play with rocks 😆