Laser Cut Lantern Instructions and Free Cut Files

[@davidashby4306]

I really appreciate the file and instructions. Have done one for myself.

[@freelaserfiles]

Glad you enjoyed the file.

[@pedroreinoso2967]

Thank you for sharing your files, it makes me very happy creating them

[@freelaserfiles]

Thankyou for your comments. If you haven't already, Please subscribe, like and share. It really helps us to share the files with other laser hobbyists.

[@richisseite6598]

👍sehr schöne Arbeit, weiter so 🙏

[@jimholmes2203]

Could you let me know the type of glue used and the nozzle dispenser and possibly the best place to purchase them in the UK?

[@freelaserfiles]

Hi, we are in Florida but we know that Amazon offers items worldwide. On our website there is a MATERIALS page where we list the items we use. The squeeze bottles and nozzles are listed there. We use titebond 3 wood glue, but you could use any suitable glue. Hope this helps.

[@SOFONIYASDANIEL]

Thank you a lot you files is very help full

[@freelaserfiles]

Thankyou for your comments. If you haven't already, Please subscribe, like and share. It really helps us to share the files with other laser hobbyists.

[@pilotentechnik-wohnmobilha4374]

It is soooo cool. Thank so much ❤️😃

[@freelaserfiles]

Thank you, hope you enjoy.

[@tj9911]

Thanks for a great project, Where did you get the bulb fixture from?

[@freelaserfiles]

Hi, we got the bulb holder from Lowes. Home Depot also has them, or they are available on line, Amazon, E Bay etc. If you haven't already, please subscribe, like and share. It really helps us to share the files with other laser hobbyists.

[@aquinnvlog]

Hi, I'm a new subscriber. Your website brought me to this video. May I know what type of paper is it?

[@freelaserfiles]

Hi thank you for contacting us. We used pre printed scrapbook/craft papers for some panels. The ones which we printed with the downloaded images are on just plain white copier paper. It was designed so that, hopefully, people could use their imagination to create a personalized lantern. It could hold artwork, family photos or you could even sandwich feathers etc. Just make sure to use a very low heat bulb. We would really like to see your finished project, if you would like to send us a photo or video to [e-mail]

[@boruchlen]

Brilliant! Subscribing right now! If i may ask, where do you get the glue bottle and the clamps from?

[@freelaserfiles]

Thank you for your comments. The clamps come from Walmart, Harbor Freight, Lowes, Home Depot or the dollar stores. The little bottles are on line, Amazon or E Bay. They are 1oz or 2oz plastic squeeze bottles with Luer Lock tops. We use 18 guage blunt Luer Lock .5" needles.

[@boruchlen]

Amazing! Thanks so much for the info!

[@eddiecunningham5543]

I was just directed to this site and I find it extremally GREAT Thank You. I would like to know what kind of glue you use in the little bottle? I plan on starting the first project once I get it completed I'll post a picture. Thank you.

[@freelaserfiles]

Hi, thank you for your comments, we use titebond3 wood glue in the assembly.

[@johndrake8684]

I am very impressed. How do you deal with the char on the cuts?

[@freelaserfiles]

Hi John, we don't seem to have much of a problem with charred edges. Obviously there are three main effects/problems when laser cutting wood. 1/ Smoke stain. When we are cutting products on our Co2 laser, we try to reduce smoke stains with plenty of air assist, good ventilation, under work air extraction and good air flow over the material. When I am cutting models for the free files, we are now using an Atezr P20, 20 watt diode laser, I don't really care about the smoke stains. I use quite a bit of air assist and a fan to blow away fumes. If the pieces get stained, I wipe them with isopropyl alcohol. I don't need to do this very often. 2/ Flash back, For product production we support the material with as few bars as possible to reduce flash. Our honeycomb is stainless steel which causes quite a bit of flash back. We often space the material from the honeycomb. Again for the free file models, flash back is not a big concern. We use a steel honeycomb so the we can hold the material with magnets but we don't use spacers because flash marks are not important to us. If you want to eliminate flash back, space your material from the honeycomb using tiny offcut slivers. 3/ Cut edges, on production this is very important to us. We want a golden brown edge without any char. We achieve this with a balance of cutting power, speed and air assist. Obviously I can't tell you how to get the best results because every machine is different, and each batch of material can be different. For the free file models, a little char is good as it helps the edges show up better in the instruction videos. When I cut the models, I am not in a rush, I cut very slowly and make 2 passes. I know every machine is different but to give you some idea, on the 20w diode, I cut 3mm baltic birch plywood at 6mm per second at 100% power, with air assist at just over half power and run 2 passes. This is a lot slower than we use for production and I know that you should never run a laser at 100%, but I do. Even running so hot and slow, I get very little char, the edges are not golden brown but when I run my finger over them, I get very little rubbing off. I am not sure if any of this helps you, but I hope it does. Isopropyl alcohol can be very useful for clean up.

[@johndrake8684]

Thanks

[@mariani295]

Beautiful as always, congratulations. Can you create a toy train project for kids? Thank you👍👍

[@freelaserfiles]

Thank you for your comments. I have an idea for a train but it will be a few months before I am able to draw it. Some ideas only take 2 or 3 weeks, but some take a long time.

[@mariani295]

Ok, thanks very much@@freelaserfiles