Lay Chipboard Particleboard the Easy way | Architect & Builder Tips

[@laapulsford]

An utter treasure chest of great information - pure gold from a true professional. One of the best, most informative building/DIY videos I have ever seen.

[@build-better-things]

Thanks a lot. Appreciate the comment.

[@laapulsford]

@@build-better-things Once upon a time in England ( and Scotland) regarding building and construction things were carried out properly - maybe world class. Today, sadly we are a long way from this scenario. I greatly admire true professionals like yourself who really take pride in their approach and end deliverable. As my neighbours in my Provencal village would say - Bravo.

[@build-better-things]

You are a gent. And I love that part of the world.

[@paoemantega8793]

Another excellent video on the laying of chipboard flooring! thanks for all the tips and hints - keep em coming :)

[@eminem2]

Is it a good idea to fill the expansion gap between the chipboard and the walls with flexible flexible expanding foam to make the room airtight?

[@Jordan-dt7wd]

Fantastic and thorough video! NHBC standards say the floor need’s perimeter noggings. Any tips on how to secure the timber to the brick wall for this purpose? Like what specific screws and wall plugs I should use, how many and what distance apart. Between my joists there are spaces ranging from 18-33cm.

[@build-better-things]

If you’re fixing into the side of masonry, you might consider a perimeter joist which is secured with resin anchored bolts but also need to consider moisture mitigation depending on DPC arrangements. Where you’re sitting on top of a wall plate, I would use straps. In both cases, these should be noted on your engineer’s drawings if it’s fit building control. There’s also the option of masonry joist hangers. Perimeter noggins are also needed for the ends of flooring. Thanks a lot for your comment.

[@Jordan-dt7wd]

What size bolt best for this type of purpose please?

[@build-better-things]

Perhaps M10 or M12 but I’m not an engineer so you need to check with your structural consultant depending on your circumstances

[@jobandknock427]

I've always laid boards starting with the tongue into the wall on the first row: use a piece of 4 x 2in softwood against the flat edge of a board, lightly tapped with a sledge hammer, to knock rows of boards together tightly in without any risk of damaging the tongues. Adjacent boards don't always pull up tightly, especially if they have been poorly stored, hence this approach which also avoids ever trying to knock the tongue edge. For maximum strength joints need to be tight, Loose board joints which are unsupported are another potential source of squeaking. Personally, I don't like unsupported joints because if badly glued and/or not pulled up tight these are another potential source of squeaks and creaks. Unsupporteds shouldn't be necessary on new builds, but on non-standard/older refurbs I've always tried to add-in extra support noggins. Maybe costs a couple of boards to be wasted - but results in less call backs Maybe worth noting that PU glue simply stops working at low temperature (sub 5 degrees Centigrade), so using it on an unheated build in a freezing cold January in Newcastle-on-Tyne won't end well! My own experience is that gluing the boards down onto the joists helps eradicate squeaking - AFAIK this is (or at least was) the recommended installation procedure from both Egger and Caber

[@lllCostalll]

Hi, couldn’t find a specific video of yours on how to insulate the void of a timber frame, do we need 100mm insulation? Does it need to be flush and gaps filled with expanding foam? Does the bottom of the timber need to be exposed to breathe? If you have a video I’ll take a look. Thank you, you gave me confidence to do it myself. 😊

[@build-better-things]

I’ve made a load of videos on insulation, but you can start here…best of luck How to choose PIR insulation : Size & Cut the fast way kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGq4hYiNnZaol8U

[@juliansaurin345]

Excellent video. Have done, more or less, what you've advised on a new floor as part of a whole-houose renovation. A couple of months after finishing and when loading floor with 10mm laminate flooring, partitions, cupboards, etc terrible squeaking started. On 600mm centres, I-joists, using D4 Egger-type glue and screws with 22mm caberboard. Still have 'access' to joist-board face from underside. Any suggestions to cure this nightmare short of knocking the whole house down ? :(

[@build-better-things]

If you’ve still got access to underside, maybe run some expanding foaming glue along the tops a new set of joists then, before the glue starts to cure, or set, screw them immediately into the side of the existing joists, pushing them tight against the underside of the chipboard at the same time. Clamps are your friend. . Then introduce noggins in the same way. If you use enough glue it will expand to grab the floor. Without seeing it, I’m guessing only. As I said in the vid, I’ll avoid 600 centres because of the increased risk of squeak

[@rls8599]

Hi Jerry - I have an office to resi project in Hamilton that I am just getting off the ground and found your videos/advice very helpful. Do you & your team take on design & build work yourself anymore or can you recommend any good builders to ask for quotes?

[@build-better-things]

For building work I can only do closer to East side. For design work, much easier as it’s just me involved. If you want to contact, there’s links in the bio or you can through the website

[@TheBlockUniverse]

What's the benefit of using tongue and groove chipboard over osb boards? Osb Is usually cheaper

[@build-better-things]

I can get the chipboard for a bit less cost the last time I looked. Plus…chipboard is treated for moisture resistance, plus 22mm t&g OSB is hard to find. I’ll only use OSB for roof deck or if I want to expose it. And if I’m building outside, I don’t want to use OSB as the floor, as it’s not waterproof. The Egger is better for that.