Layout Update | Installing Tortoise Switch Machines PART 1

[@johnrobertfox7775]

Smooth As Silk Rick ! Thank You For All Your How I Do It Videos ! Now It's Lunch With Benjamin & Rick , Ewe da Man ! You Are An Inspiration To All ! Thanks For What You Do ! 😎

[@laroyechisley4028]

Thanks for showing the installation of switch machines that I will be doing soon. Thanks again.

[@jaybird111207]

Hey Rick, and definitely a good idea to have some switch machines for those turn outs. Will make life a little easier for you when operating. I have a couple of smails to install myself soon. Thanks for sharing and have a good night. Happy modeling!! -Jason

[@genejablonski9909]

Now you have a spring that might work to repair the turnout with the broken wire. Nice work.

[@harperlarry49]

Nice job Rick. Yeah, it's been warm in the So. Cal garages this week. Thanks for sharing.

[@lindahurley-bruce7575]

Since you get a new template with every Tortoise, I simply glue the template in place and leave it there when I install the machine. It can also be helpful to use silicone calk to hold the macnine in place while you drill and screw things in place. I've long since gone to heavier wire than Tortoise provides, you're right there.

[@sammym.belfastchild]

Nice Rick , it will definitely make it easier for those hard to reach switches , looks like Benjamin was ready for lunch . Gave you the " just hurry up already look." Cheers 😀

[@wolfgang2007aaaaaaaa]

I did not know you had to remove the spring from the turnout, and its not mentioned anywhere. Best bit of advice I've heard on installing these tortoise machines, thanks alot

[@socalscalemodels]

Glad it helped

[@flyboy2610]

I use a Tortoise on all my turnouts. What I did with the template was I glued it to a piece of 1/4" plywood, then drilled out the mounting holes. My layout is 2" thick, plus roadbed, so like you I use a thicker wire. I drill a 5/16" hole for the wire through the layout, so I drilled the large hole in the template 5/16". I took a piece of 5/16" wooden dowel about 2-1/2" long, and I made a line across each end, making sure that the 2 lines were parallel with each other. I then glued the dowel into the template, with one end flush with the face of the template, and the line on the end of the dowel in line with the center-line marked on the template. When I go to install a Tortoise, I insert the dowel from below the layout into the hole for the throw wire. From above I turn the dowel until the line is parallel with the center-line of the track. Then down below I can drill the screw holes, knowing that the Tortoise will be properly aligned with the track center-line. It sounds more complicated than it is. I got the idea from another KZbin video, but I can't find it now to give the creator proper credit, but the idea is not original with me. It works great, though!

[@KraigSickels]

I have tortoise 🐢 switch machines and they work great 👍 , excellent choice Rick 😊

[@jerryebner159]

real nice video, I am just getting started with this hobby

[@socalscalemodels]

Cool 👍

[@adriengadson3544]

I had to sand the seam peak on the mounting area on all mine. They don't seat all the way flat and may have a rock to them after the screwing down. Also I you probably know adjusting the slide gives a long throw or shorter throw. Anyway enjoy the hands free operation.

[@robtman9199]

looks good Rick, that will make it a lot easier for you to run trains without the reaching back to throw it manually. looking forward to seeing how you wired it up. Stay cool.

[@mikerubynfs]

To test switch motors I made up a set of leads with a DPDT centre off switch wired as a reversing switch in the lead. I have small crocodile clips on each end so I can clip to a power supply and the switch motor. Holding the switch either way moves the motor with centre off incase of a problem removes the power.

[@mikerubynfs]

I've found that you don't have to remove the spring, push it out of the slot in the tie bar and let it move to one side so it no longer pushes against the tie bar. Then if you want to use it in the future push it back in the slot. I've used PECO with and without the spring with turnout motors.

[@johnnyeveritt5695]

Howzit : There certainly is a difference of opinion in respect of Tortoise plus PECO Turnouts. If one uses the supplied actuator-wire [ Viewed as a tad too thin by more than a few ]; one HAS to remove the centering-spring and forgo the advantage of the positive locking * Click * of the point-blades. I also replaced the too thin actuator-wire with that of a thicker-gauge. In having done this; I found one can leave the locking-spring in place; but the smoooth transition movement is obviously lost. In any event; the Tortoise remains as a reliable switch-motor; offering helpful; internal electrical circuits .... 🤙

[@TheLocutus70]

Take that spring and put it in the one over by Athearn that's missing it's spring. 😊

[@josephjurkovic875]

Ty for the diy

[@kinnywolf2862]

Great video

[@socalscalemodels]

Thanks!

[@davidsteuber7174]

I must get some tortoise.

[@Vman7757]

Hey at time 12:10 you put in a thicker piano wire? If you pull out the spring in the switch that helps the points stay in place when thrown. (Spelling not my strong suit.) You can use the wire that came with the Tortoise. F.Y.I. it pops out from the bottom.

[@Vman7757]

Oh I see you found it.

[@johnathanlewis2049]

Hi Rick I couldn’t help but notice that track looks like it’s right up against that small scene dividing mountains. The train might hit it coming out of the yard or entering

[@socalscalemodels]

plenty of room once I get the track in the right spot

[@David-yo5re]

Nice instructional video. Are you gonna use a tortoise machine on the switch coming from staging out to the mainline?

[@socalscalemodels]

Yes I am!

[@David-yo5re]

@@socalscalemodels I figured you would considering where it will be located. 👍