Lead Rope Solo with Silent Partner - Tom Thumb 5.8

[@TheDyscontinuum]

That rappel hurt me a lil, but I suppose "safety nerd" is an apt term. Nice climb!

[@iloveadventures6710]

Don't worry what others think... unless they are being courteous and reiterating a safety tip brother! You obviously know what you are doing. Subscribed.

[@bazcardinal1176]

Very smooth. I really like the commentary.

[@TennisEuphoria]

No back up knot?

[@robertpearson9137]

Mine locks up a lot quicker than yours if I don't manage the rope weight. I know this isn't meant as instructional. The first time I used it I found out...this was back in the day when you had to figure out a lot of things yourself the hard way.

[@stilldavid]

Everything I know I taught myself over many years - I started rope solo with a modified grigri and zero oversight or instruction... not recommended! Managing weight of the rope is tough, on longer routes I'll prussik the rope into a piece/bolt with breakaway cord to hold the rope up as I climb above. I'll have to do a multipitch video soon.

[@Phoenixhunter157]

This looks like such a fun climbing route.

[@IanLConnors]

this MUST be a play on tom thum, the beatboxer who made a ted talk. haven't yet watched the video but appreciate the pun.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

Ooohh. The Dark Art of rope solo. Nice climb. We have a guy at Buck's Bar that uses a silent partner. They look pretty reliable. I like TR solo on shunt but I will want to get a few more (thousand) trad miles on before even trying this.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

@Malcolm Hansell I back the shunt up with a ropeman - but ONLY on TR solo. I would never use that setup on a self belay. The shunt is clearly listed as a fall prevention device, not a fall arrestor. I have seen some failure videos of the shunt, even though Dave McLeod uses it in his self belay, I would not.

[@fredpastuh7518]

Great thank you!

[@branko36]

Hey, don't think you mentioned it, but can I ask the reasoning behind clipping the silent partner through the tie-in-loops versus the belay loop? Genuinely curious as it seemed you had the tie-in-loops held close with a sling on a larkshead/cowhitch?

[@stilldavid]

Good question! A few reasons to use the tie in loops, starting with: that's what the manual says to do :) I also like it because it holds it closer to my body, so in the event of a fall it's still waist level and not closer up to my chest. Tying in via the belay loop would also rotate it 90 degrees, and I appreciate having the rope on the "left" and "right" rather than front/back, if that makes sense. The girth hitch/larkshead/whatever you see is not for the integrity of the harness at all - that is my PAS that I use to tie in to the anchor when I know I will need to get myself off belay at the anchor.

[@rmd4698]

well made climbing video, liked commented and subscribed

[@calebmeador3039]

Great vudeo

[@soaringibex]

What's your backup for the Silent Partner?

[@stilldavid]

On longer routes (especially multipitch!) I tie figure 8 backup knots every 20-30' and clip them to my harness with individual mini locking D carabiners. This particular climb I didn't use that system, which adds risk no doubt. Andy Kirkpatrick is working on a new edition of Me, Myself, and I which I'd highly recommend if you're interested in rope solo technique, especially on bigger walls.

[@soaringibex]

@@stilldavid Cool. I read the first edition. Can't wait to see the new one. I believe slip knots are another option so you can undo them with one hand.

[@bman6065]

So does it really matter as much how much pieces are extended? Isn't more or less always the same friction minus the weight of the slack end below?

[@stilldavid]

Not sure exactly what you're asking, but I didn't extend every piece because it's a short climb and pretty near a straight line up. For routes that wander I definitely keep draws and runners on hand! For the anchor it doesn't matter how extended the pieces are, so long as it's set for an upward pull and there's a piece at the top to keep slack out of the system.

[@ASNIV_]

Awesome video! You use a cache loop on longer pitches? Curious about feeding since I just picked up a SP to replace an upside down gri gri

[@stilldavid]

Absolutely, and that has the benefit of built-in backup knots! Sometimes I use a bag with the rope coiled in it on my person as well. Both have the benefits of carrying less weight the higher up you go.

[@Papershields001]

Oh man, I want a silent partner SO bad. How did you get yours?? I’ve been rope soloing on a grigri for about a year now and I’d totally pay a thousand bucks for one.

[@stilldavid]

Just lucky, I guess! I bought it almost 10 years ago before they got super popular. I bought it from its first owner for $150.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

That's good cause you totally will pay about 1000 bucks for one!

[@sendfestderick7847]

I just paid $1700 for mine! Let me know if you see one for $1000...

[@김태진-f3w1s]

당신은 멋진 등반가입니다. 사용하신 장비 모델은 무엇입니까? 알고싶습니다.

[@Lucasthomasperrier]

Just bought one for 1000 cad. My faith in fellow climbers has been reaffirmed after years of waiting 😂 I’ll still stick to a grigri for freezing temps though

[@andrewp.9541]

Need some sturdy shoes for that approach

[@ananda_miaoyin]

And lots of water. That trail looks like a real bear.

[@timmilner1432]

Nice to see how the Silent partner works but you should have extended your runners and backed up the rap! Others who might follow your example could fall.

[@stilldavid]

Agree 100% I should have backed up my rap, I mention this in the video :) As for extending runners, this line is pretty plumb up and down and the pieces placed were not at risk of walking. Thanks for the feedback!

[@palminator73]

All good except the single bolt clip in at the anchor. At around 7:15 you are on only one of the anchor bolts. People have died when a single anchor point blows. Looks like you are having a blast otherwise.

[@MrLyckegard]

Please tell me more

[@palminator73]

As he removes the silent partner before the rap, he is clipped into only one bolt. This is not redundant. There have been incidents where singe bolt anchors have failed resulting in catastrophe. Always clip into both anchor bolts if you can.

[@LiamWilsonisbeastly]

@@palminator73 this happens like once a decade on really old bolts. given that he isn't weighting it, has a bomber stance, and he'd risk a factor >=1 fall on a static PAS anyway, this is super good enough imo