Lead Solo Climbing - How to Unweight the Live Rope to Prevent Backfeed (2022 update!)

The weight of the Live Rope causes backfeeding AND adds to the weight felt by the lead solo climber. Here are the 4 best ways to reduce this weight.
Prusik as shown here, Matt Hunter slip knot, Mattie Skinner (Arctic Bastards) rubber finger and an "optimized" clamp.
Please consider buying an online course from me: you will learn A TON! blissclimbing....

[@fernandosanz4422]

Well Yann, definitely one of your best videos, you keep improving with every video. Your advice keeps me constantly evaluating and re-evaluating my method. I love your clear explanations and pros and cons. Thank you so much.Your channel is the jewel of youtube

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

WoW thanks for the great comment!

[@SICgrips]

I’ve never heard of a one-wrap Pruik before. I was taught that they had to have at least two wraps to qualify as a Pruisk. A ‘one-wrap ‘ prusik is simply a Girth hitch. I consider any method that requires two hands to be a non-starter for most climbing. I don’t often find a no-hands stance where a knot or a clip of some kind can be used. The best methods that I’ve run across so far is Marty’s ball-bearing grom hitches; modified door stops that perform similarly; or Keith Leary’s home-made bungee keepers. Those methods only require one hand and are quick and easy.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

A girth hitch I agree. I’ve lost at least 2 of the balls in Marty’s grom hitch. My favorite one hand method is the clamp. I think that is what Fabian Buhl uses!!! LOL

[@iljano20]

There's always interesting stuff to watch from Ian

[@ButterBallTheOpossum]

Have you done a review of the petzl Asap? I purchased one for top rope soloing as a backup and couldn't find any video of yours that reviews it. I could mail mine to you if you send it back after you're done experimenting with it and reviewing it.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

2 climbers gave me their ASAPs in exchange of my online courses. So I am fine thanks! For now I have this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppK2kqeCgqaMh7s and this: docs.google.com/document/d/1QEUHCuqyHPxJiFgZU6umoOukoHyMD8VG8LPVmmL1zjE/edit?usp=sharing

[@montanaranger7376]

your English is great man, love the channel.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks!!

[@tuxfighter]

Awesome Video, very clear instructions, first class content, i love it 😍

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks!

[@tomtom4405]

THANK YOU, the perfect content with perfect timing. This is *exactly* what I need to know for something I have in mind

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Are you the famous Tom C? Thanks for the comment!!

[@tomtom4405]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing No, I'm not famous anything, but yesterday I *eventually* got round to testing this out in my first real rope solo after much delay (which was easy aid not free so I could be slow and methodical while learning). I came back here to say *THANK YOU!* absolutely perfect, the slip knot method worked exactly as you show here

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@tomtom4405 you are welcome!

[@danalmad]

Method 4 is really quick and smart! I like!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Look at the updated version of the clamp. See link at 11:00 in the video. What do you think of this update?

[@danalmad]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing same function but probably much better durability 👍🏼

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

@@danalmad Absolutely! Thanks 🙂

[@tristanlasley8030]

Idea...) take a birdie (from batmaten) but have the center cut out and replaced with a thick rubber band that has a nipple on it, so you could wrap the rope with the rubber band, with the birdie skirt, and that way, your rope wouldn't slip down. AMD... so then on longer routes you could top out, repel, pull rope back out the Quickdraws, and go back at it. I'm think more like for quick training sessions this would cut out alot of waiting time.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I don't understand your design. You mean a Badminton Birdie?

[@woodneni]

i normally use the slipknot, doing with one hand, i think its easier than anyone, the problem is that sometimes it slip, but that de name of the know, right?!?! lol..... always amazing contents... congrats Yann...

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I would love to see how you make your slipknot one-handed! Yes it slips more when you don't "set it right". It is quite hard to set firmly hence my recommendation to use both hands for that... Thanks for the great comment! :-)

[@GregSidberry]

Klemhist the first rebelay and slip knot resting on top the draw for the rest. Still waiting to try Matty's addon. Like your slipknot, but don't like the draws movement when it popped. Thanks for the beta and will test.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

That is a good comment. Some testing of falls on slip knots should be done soon…

[@dejvr7504]

Hey! Is it possible to find the 3D model of Mattie's rubber finger somewhere so I can 3D print it myself? I've looked and didn't seem to find anything about it on the internet.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/gromm-hitch

[@prusikmallorca]

I use a part of the rubber tube from the bicycle wheel. Easy and cheap. You can see it in: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZWwoIt8Zs99iZY Regards

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I have tried that... It will break after some use because of rubbing against the rock. And litter the environment. Not my favorite.

[@davidgdalevich8249]

Awesome informative video, thanks! What do you think about a munter hitch instead of the slip knot? it will make your fall less dynamic, but that could be a good thing if you're above a ledge, compared to the extra slack you get from the slipknot untying. Also, when you tie a second slipknot do you untie the first one?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

The munter I would have to test. BUT my LRS falls are already too static most of the time. Falling on a munter will add friction and make the fall even more static. So I don't recommend it!!

[@csopi6287]

Hi You should test something similar to ikea bevara n clip. Áron Urbanics's idea, works well.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Would you be able to operate it easily one-handed? I am not sure...

[@csopi6287]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing quite easy. Give it a try if you run into a similar unit. I have mine on a 3mm cord

[@99arruru99]

Yann, wonderful video. Thanks for sharing. What kind of harness is that? It looks like a steel ring for a belay loop?

[@tuxfighter]

Petzl Open, use this ring too, love it :)

[@OffBelay_]

I use it as well instead of a belay loop. Been using it for over a year and no one has died.

[@clintflicker2645]

I use a similar method to the first example (friction knot). However, rather than using a friction knot, i clip a clove hitch into the 60cm cord, and then lead clip into the shorter draw from above (same bolt). I note the potential for the clove hitch getting sucked into the higher draw, but see this as unlikely given the tension on the rope. Do you see any significant problems with my method?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I used to do that a lot. Your analysis of the risk is correct. But depending on the rope and forces involved, I think the clove getting sucked in the draw is very likely and undesirable. I figured the prusik as I show is more likely to involve more rope in dampening of a fall. And not much more complicated to install. Makes sense?

[@brianrodman1033]

What about attaching some 1/2” tubular webbing to the clamp instead of the tape? Worth the effort?

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

I am not sure I understand your idea. But please look at the link I put at 11:00 . It is an updated version of the clamp design. Get hundreds of more videos and updates buying the course here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

[@frischluftbn_ni]

The Problem I see with the slip knot is, that if you use a self feeding belay system it could get untied if you pull the rope in case the device locks.

[@frischluftbn_ni]

Till now, I really like to pull the rope up every 10 to 15 meters to get a feeling of how much slack I have at the rope to the anchor

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Absolutely crucial to feel for possible rope that backfed in the system. The slipknot has never unknotted on me at a wrong time. Only when I pulled super hard on it to undo it remotely. Makes sense?

[@OffBelay_]

Hey Yann! So people saw the petzl ring open on my harness and have nearly fucking crucified me haha Saying that its not safe and PEOPLE ARE GONNA DIE. Have people given you shit about replacing the belay loop? I have sent an email to Petzl to get their opinion. Thanks man!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Never had too much fire for the Ring Open... But yea you need to have the tork on the screw correct. I wonder how much deviation from the right tork is acceptable. Never saw tests suggesting that the Ring Open is dangerous in any way. Climbers are often harsh on other climbers that do different. Don't listen to haters. But I am happy to learn from knowledgeable people and will listen to the fool because only him has real new ideas... Might be the future!! I own a single Ring Open and have used it since it appeared in my videos. Still going strong! Makes sense? Thanks for the comment!!!

[@OffBelay_]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing i have commented on one of your videos and got the ring right away. In the end it is rated climbing equipment made by Petzl. Hope all is well! Cheers!

[@OffBelay_]

Forgot to mention i have emailed Petzl to get their opinion on it.

[@chisingchu8633]

If can do this one hand will be better, but it seems not to be

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

The 2 first methods I do with 2 hands. The last 2 are one-hand. Look at the Avant Climbing Innovation Soft Cinch: they are awesome!! (And a one-hand solution)

[@GabrielCharette]

I recently switched to old nylon slings for the friction knot method because I'm leery that rope friction on a fall could burn the dyneema (dyneema is very weak to heat). And then if I don't notice and rerack as an alpine draw, I could end up falling on that bad sling in a later climb...

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Good point… My dyneema slings all end up used in that way and they stay in good shape a long time. I recommend you find an old dyneema sling for this use: they are super light and they grab well with a single wrap!