Leatherwork hand sewing tips - Diamond Holes

If your needles are getting stuck while you are saddle stitching try this little trick, give it a little twist to clear the wide part of the stitching hole.

[@glennruscher4007]

I just learned something honestly useful. Thank you very much. 😊

[@mrkeggjr]

That is a neat bit of info been struggling with this for almost a year. Thank you

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Glad it was helpful!

[@IsaacAyuba]

This is great... I have struggling a times. Thanks mate. 👍🏾

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Glad it helped

[@jadorelepapier]

Thanks for the helpful tips!!

[@The5ixx]

Nice, thanks for this great tip!

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Let me know if you have any other questions that I can help with 🙂

[@EmL-kg5gn]

I really should’ve learned how to sew leather properly before working with it 😂 Fortunately I only made a decoration for a keyring but I was using pliers to pull the needle through and my poor needle was much worse for wear by the end of it. I also didn’t have the proper tool to make the holes. The keyring turned out alright by some miracle!!! But I’m going to do things properly next time

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Even the cheap stitching chisels sets / the leather craft kits that can be found on Amazon, eBay, wish, temu etc. are plenty good enough to give you a good start. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqWUY4VuhpaIn6c

[@EmL-kg5gn]

@@HandmadeByAlex Thank you! It’d definitely be much better than what I was doing before. It’s quite easy to find tools for various crafts where I live so I might even find some second hand 😊

[@violettracey]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@Maryam2000-zn3ji]

❤❤❤good

[@joey-no4gy]

How do I do the slanted stitches? Also this is called a diamond hole? What kind does Hermes use?

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Yes this is using a diamond stitching chisel, when using the correct saddle stitching technique the thread will align itself to be "slanted". As for Hermes I am not sure, but there are machines that imitate the look of a saddle stitching but not the strength of it.

[@amolpatil8777]

Please teach how to finish it with knot which wont come out

[@HandmadeByAlex]

The tension of the leather and thread together should not need to be knotted. Either a double knot or a knot between the layers and tuck it in.

[@preciousobam3706]

What can i use to achieve the holes?

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Hi, have a look at this video on stitching chisels kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqWUY4VuhpaIn6c

[@YacobAzzoug]

What kind of leather pu you use ?... because i need a leather pu with cork in the bottom side

[@HandmadeByAlex]

I do not use PU Leather so cannot recommend any.

[@HejMette]

What is the purpose of a diamond hole vs a round hole?

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Hi @HejMette , I think I have covered this in another video, but I can't remember which one at the moment. But the short answer is, when you punch the round holes you are removing material, which not only weakens the overall structure of the leather, but it lowers the amount of material between the 2 holes. It puts the closest internal areas of your stitching golesdirectly next to each other, so when you pull the thread tight there is a higher chance of it acting cheese wire and ripping through the sewing line. Also the nature of the diamond stitching opens holds the threads in place as the holes close up. You can get diamond stitching holes closer to the edge of your work, and of course... they just look nicer.

[@amolpatil8777]

How to add tension for saddle stitch?

[@HandmadeByAlex]

You control the tension with how tightly you pull the threads.

[@amolpatil8777]

@@HandmadeByAlex once I pull them, and continue for next stitch they loosen up, I cant hold constantly as I have to move on for next stitch

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Oh, that sounds like you might need smaller holes or thicker thread. Are you punching a hole or using a stitching chisel/ diamond awl?

[@amolpatil8777]

@@HandmadeByAlex i am using an awl I got ur point though, that hole needs to be so small to create friction between leather and thread so that tension will stay intact Thank you so much for clarification

[@HandmadeByAlex]

Absolutely correct, when using a awl or stitching chisel we create a puncture hole in the leather, that will squeeze in tighter when it is left. When you use a hole punch and remove material the leather will not be able to tighten.