Making A 1870's Corset Part 2 | Projects In Pyjamas Ep 6

Welcome to another episode of Projects In Pyjamas!
In this 2 part episode I’m making a new corset after a original pattern, published in de Gracieus back in 1876
#Corset
#Victorian
#sewing
Major thanks to Merja (@before_the_automobile) for inspiring me to make this corset. You can find her blog post about it here: augustintytar.b...
And the pattern can be found in the Gracieuse archives. It's the bottom left corset: geheugen.delph...
and the pattern pieces (nr 38 to 45) can be found here: geheugen.delph...
The pattern I used for the chemise can be found here: www.mimicofmod...
I made a few changes to the yoke and sleeves to better fit my body and so it won’t be showing from om under my bodices.
Not sponsort
Coutil: www.whaleys-br...
Silk: www.fucotex.de
Corset supplies: www.venacavade...
You can find The Prym mechanical chalk pencil and my other favorite tools in our Amazon Affiliate storefront.
www.amazon.com...
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Check out our Amazon Affiliate storefront.
Here you can find the costume books we use for reference or patterns, favorite sewing tools and our vlogging gear. www.amazon.com...
Places you can find us:
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[e-mail]
(We do not take costume commissions)
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[@carolempluckrose4188]

Your work is just stunning. I have learnt so much from these 2 videos, thank you. My Mum was a teacher for Singers in the South West of England and South Wales. Sadly, now she has dementia. However, I can hear her telling me to "watch this young lady, she's good!" Believe me, Mum would be right. Now I know where to come when I make my corset!

[@estelledesigns]

The finishing the boning channel threads on the inside is genius!!! The corset turned out beautifully! The colour is simply gorgeous!

[@Leeam]

Thank you😊 it’s something I have been doing more lately with visible stitches

[@999Giustina]

Your corset is beautiful! Finally, someone who really pays attention to all the little details and it really shows! Outstanding work.

[@catlaw5803]

Your work is so beautiful. The new silhouette and fit are so lovely. This video series just made me a subscriber! Thank you for all the details, tips, and tricks to make the transition from first corset to best corset.

[@PsychoKat90]

It turned out so gorgeous! I just love the sinuous shape those 1870s corsets give... to die for! Your finishing is absolutely beautiful, and the corset looks smooth and light. Thank you for sharing!

[@Leeam]

Thank you so much 🙏🏽❤️

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

This is one of the clearest and most detailed instructional videos I’ve seen on KZbin. 👍🏻 Thank you!

[@EverythingsOrange]

Loved watching this it was so interesting! You're a really good seamstress. The new one looks much more comfortable on your chest, the other one looked like it must've been cutting in. Looks very pretty.

[@Leeam]

Thank you ☺️

[@epeaches7677]

Your work is exquisite. I am enjoying watching.

[@jennipherlewis3221]

I just finished my first corset and I had horrible unfinished edges. I love your "envelope" hems to hide the raw seams. So brilliant and so easy. Thank you for the education. I was afraid to try another pattern with a gusset, but I feel empowered!

[@Leeam]

Keep on trying!! Gosh my first “corset” was a monstrosity🙈

[@lyleea]

I just went to your sources and noticed something: The way you changed your pattern, made the N.23 Model very similar to the N.24. You probably could have saved yourself a lot of extra work there. But besides that: It turned out beautifully. I admire your work there. I'm on the verge of doing one myselfe, but I'm not yet a hundert percent sure, if I really want to put all that effort into it. (Here, it's official. I'm lazy.) :D

[@theplussizecostumer]

Loved the way you did the waist stay tape and the boning channels. It makes more sense that way. I also really like that oversized pressing ham(??) you used. Is it actually called a ham?? Where would I find one to purchase? Just wondered why you don't wear drawers and stockings under your costumes rather than tights. It makes it much easier to use the toilet. I had an idea if you wished to continue wearing the tights. Take the crotch seam out and bind the edge. That way you wouldn't have to make a separate shorter shift. And you'd be a little closer to historically accurate. Just a thought.

[@Leeam]

The pressing bank is from a Dutch brand called Wagen. www.topfournituren.nl/a-36680553/perskussens/perskussen-merk-wagen-groot-professioneel-gebruik/#description The reason why I wear tights, is because I don’t like going comando. Split drawers and crotch less tights are kinda pointless if you are still wearing modern underwear. I don’t thrive/want to be historical correct. I want to enjoy wearing a costume and be comfortable whilest doing it. Then be uncomfortable and not enjoy my time in costume. Cause then why wear it in the first place?

[@angelanice]

It's so beautiful! For future reference, the English term for those ugly stitches is back stitching 😉 I use the same technique to avoid where they would show on the finished garment. Also you played my favorite classical piece, Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata 😍

[@Leeam]

I keep forgetting 😂

[@MendyLady]

I am in awe of your sewing skills, the more so as I'm just finishing a corset of a similar (tho very much simpler) design.

[@Leeam]

Awww thank you😊

[@tammymasson2343]

I am in love with the color and beauty of your corset! You did such meticulous, lovely work!

[@Leeam]

Thank you🤗

[@ldg2655]

This has been an interesting, entertaining and informative video.... I am not a seamstress, even though I have sewn a little during my life, but, judging from the number of corset videos I’ve watched lately, I foresee a corset-making project in my future...

[@Leeam]

😂😂😂 I’m glad to hear it was either one of those. ❤️ good luck whenever you are ready to tackle one☺️

[@pbonniejean]

The new corset is exquisite! I'm so grateful that you shared the process. It will help me so much when I get brave enough to make my own.

[@Leeam]

Happy to here it is of some help🤗

[@maryjoernst6015]

I have watched many corset construction videos and this is one of the best! Thank you for sharing your progress, techniques and skill. Well done!

[@sierralarars]

Results are stunning! Definitely contemplating trying the sandwich construction!

[@Leeam]

Thank you☺️

[@sierralarars]

Lee-am Ended up trying it and I am a convert! It comes together so fast!

[@rebeccaelliott4261]

Honestly that is a beautiful garment. I’m kinda inspired to make one ❤️

[@muslinandlace2099]

I love this pattern, it's so flattering! The blue silk is gorgeous as well. I appreciate the details in your video too, I'm new to more complicated sewing and I've never used silk, so your tips on the construction are super useful. 🥰

[@Leeam]

Aww thank you! ☺️ and good luck on your project! You can do it 💪🏼

[@lindateller9325]

Beautiful work!

[@KirileeCosplay]

Absolutely gorgeous. The attention to detail is so wonderful.

[@Leeam]

Thank you 😊

[@Sew_Learning]

Thank you so much for sharing this adventure with us. I really enjoyed this and love your new corset. I made notes for my attempt at making a corset. I love the silhouette it gives us. Stay safe. Warm wishes from Down Under🇦🇺👗👒🌸😎

[@Leeam]

Aww thank you! You stay safe and warm to😘

[@Anne-lv2qg]

Such a beautiful corset, and I learned a lot! What I found works well when you have to cut spring steel is sawing with a u-shaped hand saw with the thin sawing part a special steel saw. It makes for a very clean end.

[@Leeam]

Ooh! That is a great one! I’ll keep that in mind for next time❤️

[@adenaueroliveira]

I love your videos, thank you so much for sharing with us these historic habits from last centuries.

[@sherri-annchalmers7509]

Oooo that corset is beautiful.

[@Leeam]

Thank you ❤️

[@ElizabethEstervig]

ThiS is absolutely gorgeous! I love your detail work with tying off your top thread. 😍

[@Leeam]

Thank you 🤗

[@souupii.3434]

I've learned a lot from your videos! Although I'm not very good at sewing, watching your videos gives me tips on what I was doing wrong and find easier ways to do things. Some of which is just common sense that I somehow hadn't figured out on my own haha!😅

[@Leeam]

I’m so glad they are of some help to people❤️

[@aliloucreations1817]

Absolutely beautiful work I’m going to binge watch your channel now , new subbie here , love your work ❤️❤️❤️

[@Leeam]

Thanks so much 😊And welcome!

[@Saoirseah]

Gorgeous corset & chemise. I took a look at the pattern you used for the corset. Yeah... I'm still too new for that haha. The chemise pattern looks real straight forward. Your neckline for the chemise and the way it sits along the collarbone and along the tips of the shoulders is perfect for you :) Just a really gorgeous neckline on you; accents your features and displays your neck & throat well. Very classy. Good Job! There isn't any way that you would consider posting the corset pattern so that someone not as amazing and talented as you could follow it? Thank you for the video. Loved the journey.

[@Leeam]

❤️Aww thank you so much🤗 I’ll have a think about posting the pattern

[@alcarinweisturlimiell4438]

Love your beautiful corset! And when wearing it the wrinkling doesn't really show up as much, so no worries :D Also: depending on your reason for wearing tights, maybe making some matching split drawers, worn with those stay-up-stockings might be a solution? The drawers are actually quite comfy and functional, even though they might seem a bit strange at first ;)

[@Leeam]

I wear tights because of chaving thighs..😬 also because I dance a lot in these costumes. So I don’t want to flash anybody, I’ve worn drawers before over my tights but they restrict my movement a bit in combination with the tights

[@alcarinweisturlimiell4438]

@@Leeam Same here with the chaving highs - for me it worked very well with the historical drawers on that front, but with the whole dancing situation it's quite an argument off cause^^

[@harmonygibbs7904]

you had some wonderful tips here that i never thought of. I will make notes for my next corset. :)

[@Leeam]

Glad I could be of some help

[@avacandide]

It turned out so beautiful. Absolutely love it!

[@Leeam]

thank you!

[@NadiasNook1]

I'm making a 1869 corset pattern for the first time and I loved your videos, they were so helpfull! Anyway you might consider making a pair of combination for underneath your corset if you're experimenting with different undergarment they are still period accurate but shorter than a chemise :D Also I'm pretty sure most of those had a open crotch so I think they should work with thights? 🙈 At least I think so...

[@Leeam]

Nope open crotch would not work with tights😂 cause you can’t pull them down. The whole reason drawers had open crotches was so you could just spread your legs and go🙈

[@WinkyGirls]

Thanks for this elaborate video, Nikki. This will be so useful when I make the corset with spoon busk that I am planning!

[@catherinemalcolm8125]

Thank you for sharing this lovely creation, very interesting to see the process, and the comparison at the end was really helpful.

[@roxiepoe9586]

Though I studied French in college, I am far from fluent. I live in Texas. Spanish is often spoken here. I am totally unable to understand or speak Spanish. Therefore, I am awestruck that you can speak English so well as it is not your first language. Though you do have an accent, it is not at all hard to understand you. (I live in Texas. Some of my non-texan friends have a bit of difficulty understanding me when I have my 'twang' going. lol) Your videos are a delight. Thank you.

[@Leeam]

😅😅

[@karinbaird2499]

Thank you for the lessons and please show more💕

[@Leeam]

Thank you😊

[@wiess4926]

Once again a educating video! Great job

[@Leeam]

Thank you 😊

[@ateliernostalgia4088]

It looks beautiful! Love how neat all the finishes look, and the shape looks great! Also: I'd love to hear once you've got an update on how well the chemise works! All my Victorian chemises are sleeve-less (easier to hide straps), but for dress-protection purposes I sort of also want a sleeved one...

[@Leeam]

Once we can get our feet on the dancefloor again I’ll give you a live update😉

[@mewennm4387]

Bon j'espère qu'en français ça va le faire, je connais tellement peu de personnes qui le parle dans la communauté que je prend peut-être mes rêves pour la réalité et je n'ai pas regardé toutes tes vidéos mais j'ai l'impression que tu es francophone alors je me lance. La couleur de ce corset est magnifique et regarder ta vidéo m'a redonné courage. Je dois me coudre un corset prochainement pour un costume de GN et je n'arrive pas à m'y mettre parce que j'ai l'impression que je vais tout faire faux. C'est bête, mais par exemple juste te regarder couper les baleines en fer torsadé m'a un peu rassurée sur cette partie du processus (je sais, couper du fil de fer c'est pas compliqué, mais juste regarder quelqu'un d'autre le faire avant je me dit qu'il y a peu de chance que je me foire). Tes finitions sont incroyables, c'est l'autre truc qui me fait peur pour cette histoire de corset, d'habitude je n'ajuste pas mes patrons (et souvent le résultat est à la hauteur de mon manque d'ajustement mais je coud peu de vêtements donc jusqu'ici c'était pas grave) et je suis de l'école "fini c'est mieux que parfait" donc prendre le temps de faufiler… voilà. Je sais que sur un corset c'est pas une philosophie qui va m'aider mais les bonnes intentions ne remplacent pas l'expérience ^^'. Mais ton corset est tellement incroyable que ça me donne envie de faire de mon mieux. Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo.

[@Leeam]

merci pour vos paroles très aimables. malheureusement, je ne parle pas français, à part quelques petites phrases. (j'utilise google translate🤫) j'espère que vous trouverez le courage de commencer votre corset. et continuez à développer vos compétences avec chaque projet que vous choisissez. ❤️

[@mewennm4387]

​@@Leeam Thank you for your kind reply and even more so for answering in French, especially if it is a language in which you aren't very fluent. Honestly reading the comment above I would have never guessed so either you don't give yourself enough credit or google translate has become really amazing.

[@Leeam]

I think the later!! 😂

[@hannelore03]

Beautiful result😍

[@Leeam]

Thank you 😊

[@estherhadassa1061]

Echt super duidelijke video, veel van geleerd ... bedankt. En die kleur is echt helemaal geweldig. 💗💗💗

[@Leeam]

Dankje wel ❤️

[@Midlife_Manical_Mayhem]

what a beautiful corset you created! i am plus size and very large busted (44H/I). i've been toying with the idea of trying to amek a corset that would support my monsters, but not push them up into my face. i do not want a bunch of cleavage, etc. do you think a similar design to this but with the front coming up higher, with fuller gussets would achieve my thoughts? i appreciate your input. also, where are you from ? i can't quite place you sweet accent.

[@Leeam]

Yes! Although I am not an corset expert, I would thing making the gussets big would create more space for them and them get them more forever instead of upwards😉 oh! And I’m Dutch 🇳🇱

[@letslistentobooks894]

i love your music selection ... :D

[@AModistadoDesterro]

I loved the vídeo and the colors you've chosen are AMAZING!

[@Leeam]

Thank you 🤗

[@lucythesplendid9316]

This turned out so beautifully! For your boning channels did you use strips of coutil?

[@Leeam]

Thank you! And yes, indeed I did🤗

[@ellenmensahagbenyeku9449]

Hi...I am in love with your finishing...Can you show us how to draft thecoattern please

[@coralineprince]

Absolutely wonderful !

[@zerpentinefire]

Wow! Such a gorgeous piece of garment! How on earth did you get out any proportions right from the pattern? 😱 I’m currently struggling with it... any tips for me? 😓

[@Leeam]

Thank You! I have used this method: pin.it/31FW8va you basically use one point in the original pattern. And then extent from that to any corner and multiple by the % you are enlarging it with. For example from the center point to a corner is 10cm and you are scaling up the pattern by 50% the new line is 15cm from center point to the new corner while going through the original corner... does that make sense?

[@zerpentinefire]

Lee-am Oh! Now I see, thank you! Yes, it makes sense. 😃

[@zerpentinefire]

Lee-am By the way, I would love to get my hands on a similar copy of The Gracieuse, do have any tips for me as where I can get one? 😃

[@shevuansereday6536]

That turned out amazing. You look stunning. I am new to sewing and costuming. I am starting to see and understand the differences between the corsets. I am trying to fit one to myself currently. Looking for the 1880's. I am not sure how far up the bust the corset should be. I wear a 34 g. Do you know of some references that are clearer on the fit.

[@valorieharkness7561]

Padding is period!!!! On the edge where it is loose use padding and you will have the hourglass shape you want.

[@Leeam]

I know about the padding, however, I already have “full” hips of my own. I just wanted it there to hug my hips a bit more, not necessarily wanted more volume there😅

[@eklipsnoiredinence]

Thank you so much for this! Can't wait to make mine! Question: how do you decide where to put the support of the bones?

[@EverythingsOrange]

Oh I have a question, does it affect how your outfits look on you now your body shape has changed or is it not much different cause I suppose they get manipulated with fastenings?

[@Leeam]

Well unfortunately I haven’t been able to put it to the test much, as we haven’t really had any opportunities to wear costumes since I made this corset. 😅

[@avacandide]

Ah, I'm not the only one who wears tights with historical costumes. That's why I didn't wear a chemise either. I get horrible thigh chafing without tights :/ as much as I wish I could wear historical accurate underwear

[@Leeam]

yean and I always feel that those stockings would be to tight and cut of my blood flow🙈