Homemade CNC with 3D Printed Parts - Redesign

[@luckylarry5112]

Finally, a real project and not a benchy..... My hat is off to you sir!

[@karlosss1868]

Totally agree....... BUT, I'll die laughing if he now CNC's a Benchy.

[@bomche115]

I made my own 3D printer. Hope you guys enjoyed it.

[@marklowe7431]

People like you that are more knowledgeable on this than others and willing to share just shows how good a person you are. You can expect some bucks.

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thank you Mark

[@TheWhite199]

WOW! This is THE best and most complete video of a DIY CNC router I've seen so far.... Amazing! I hope you keep up the fantastic work. Thank you so much for this... you've provided links and sources more than enough for someone else to complete their own project. this is the best of the best!

[@larryb4122]

Leon, to say Wow about your new machine is an understatement. I am reasonably new to cnc and 3d printing however, you have shown us how limitless these tools can be. Thank you for sharing your project with us. Truly Amazing!

[@PBCWednesdayFellowshipGroup]

Hi Leon, have completed the build, added limit switches and cable chains. All is working well thanks for this great project.

[@vasilisvorrias9848]

David did you test your build?. Please share it if you like.

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

That's awesome David!

[@PBCWednesdayFellowshipGroup]

@@vasilisvorrias9848 I have just tested it and it is quite accurate and stable. Am using Fusion 350 with OpenBuilds GRBL Post Processor and a Spark Concept xPro V3 Control board with GRBL v1.1. Everything seems to be working well.

[@naboulsikhalid7763]

WOW, very enjoying to watch didn't miss a second. very clever, complex, and detailed project. I've built a small CNC, using 3d part and extrusion. and It took me a hell of a time to print those part. Watching what you did print out as 3d parts, it should month until u print all of them, and always I hesitate to get involved in a big project. But, it's lecon I've learned from you. Thank you very much. You gave me a boost. Thanks again for sharing knowledge

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

Those rails are really neat. Nice job man!

[@Ricardosantos-ng6kg]

Nice project. I'm thinking about building one myself. So far i've only seen people doing the the X and Y axis guide using linear bearing slide and your idea of using regular ball bearings and square tubes might really help me save some bucks.

[@MrGarda42]

Beautifully designed project. Love your attention to detail. Thank you for sharing the video (I also hope people know how much effort goes into making these videos and appreciate the effort there too ✌🏼🙏🏼)

[@BTom16]

I'm somewhat taken back by the sheer awesomeness of this project. Absolutely brilliant.

[@pacsmile]

This is the most amazing build i've seen in a long time, i envy your skills.

[@0517leed]

My mind is blown. I actually started almost the exact same build (Using the same-dimension square tubing and the same bearings), but have since changed my approach. It's pretty awesome to see you get it working this way!

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Awesome Leedan!

[@0517leed]

That machine of yours is beautifully designed. Thank you for sharing.

[@yohabi]

I had a CNC mill which i turbed into 3d printer. Then i printed parts for Prusa Mendel i2, assembled it and restored my CNC. Profit!

[@Harinair72]

I came for the slider mechanism.. And was not disappointed! One of the best on KZbin... Pure genius! .... Need it for a router /cutter project.. Thanks

[@Kasokz]

Holy moly, this is so cool!!! I wish I could design parts like you do, as that was the most impressive feed in your project, IMO.

[@krisknowlton2658]

Kasokz you can. Just get on KZbin and search for some FreeCad videos and learn something new. It takes some effort but it is well worth it. I'm in my mid 60's and just now getting into it and having a lot fun learning how to design stuff in FreeCad and then printing it on my Ender 3Pro.

[@AndreasLenze]

@@krisknowlton2658 Glad I am not the only one - cheers!

[@robertbaker7610]

I think I may just try and build one of these, after I build the enclosure for my 3d Printer which I am already working on. Thank you for the plans and ideas!

[@amxen1]

this is what 3d printers are for. not printing bloody vases

[@KtotheL]

benchies !!!

[@kamhaq]

nuff said... I bought mine to build jigs if I buy a couple of them they are way more expensive then one decent 3d printer

[@AntonPrantl55]

michael garbutü

[@sneekysmurf2084]

xD

[@thebeststooge]

Finally someone else who believes the way that I do BUT after 6 years I find the 3d parts to not live up to my expectations. There are filaments out there *Delrin/Acetal" that is a whole lot better at parts but makes ABS warping issues look like a Sunday school picnic PLUS 100 USD per kilo is crazy. What I would hope to do is make this then slowly CNC the parts from Aluminum. Even if the ugliest things they then could be used in place of the bendy plastic which would then be used to make the proper parts.

[@jaredlee2421]

Good sir you have successfully revolutionized diy for cnc machines again.

[@mfuzita]

Congratulations! Amazing design! I'll copy that when my 3d printer arrive

[@tip32a]

Awesome design, Thank you Leon. Buying you a coffee. Printing mine this weekend and much of next week. I plan on modifying to accept alternate heads. First will be 10 Watt laser. I have a modified stepper mount that should print on all printers without sag at bridges. Printer is a HIGHLY MODIFIED Folger tech Prusa I3. converted to lead screws. Printing PLA .4 .25 1mm shells 25% infill.

[@citizenjags1309]

Amazing design, simple enough, I love it. It definitely will be my next CnC project. Thanks !!!! and Good JOB!!!

[@edwinkania5286]

Very nice CNC and looks simpler than the others.

[@qhairulbakri758]

3d printer utilization at it's best

[@danielwardle9126]

Omg I’m so excited!!!! Found this and have already printed off 3 of the parts!! Can’t wait!! Thanks Leon!!!!

[@windy_sky]

Молодец. Отличный аппарат. На то как ты это всё делал и собирал, можно смотреть вечно.👍

[@matthewdunstone4431]

That’s a masterpiece. You have some mad skills. Your video was a pleasure to watch. Well done.

[@teddytoy6078]

Oh i love this organic SOUND

[@misterfixit1952]

Your wheels on the cross beams should capture the top and bottom of at least the bottom beam to reduce deflection and vibration in the center. It looks like you also could just include an adjustable expansion bolt using a turnbuckle with printed ends to load the two rails. Also capping the ends and filling them with sand or maybe even plaster will reduce vibration and improve finish.

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[@getenlightened]

Thank you! I'm inspired now to try to build my own, as opposed to shelling out 1200 bucks or more for a kit.

[@alexl.3730]

This is a really great job Leon, congratulations!!! I’ve been searching for a good DIY CNC project for a while (almost 1 year and 20+ projects) and I have to say yours is the best so far. In order to thank you for your huge effort, I would like to contribute to your project with my humble help with some suggestions as follows: 1. In order to increase the sturdyness of X and Y axis, please consider using steel tubes with 1.5 mm thickness, also available for 20x20 mm tubes 2. Please consider threaded rods on all axis 3. Please consider using Nema 23 motors if you want milling alluminum 4. Please consider to add exchangeable heads i.e. laser modules to cut/engrave, etc... Since I’m interested in building one and I‘m considering start it adapting your design to suit my needs, I would appreciate you share with us your .f3d file with the complete assembly in order to identify much better some parts not included in the parts list. TIA and regards.

[@alexl.3730]

As someday said, I would like to support you through Paypal not buymeacoffe.com. Thanks and good luck with your future projects...

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thank you for the suggestions.

[@alexl.3730]

Thanks Leon, what about my question regarding the possibility to share with us/me your fusion f3d assembly file in order to identify much better the parts, the complexity of the assembly and so having the possibility to modify parts much easier without the tedious task of removing complex faces on the stl meshes uploaded by you. TIA and again kind regards.

[@Tranqueirinhas]

Wow, such great design! Very inspiring indeed. Thank you!

[@catesp9387]

cetus 3d

[@hasanthimanohari7695]

Finally i watched a good KZbin video after long time. The time was well spent and thank you for sharing it.

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks Hasanthi.

[@rsetter45]

Great design. Where are the STL files for downloading?

[@anettebollerup7081]

github.com/leonvandenbeukel/Homemade-CNC

[@intelligenceservices]

Look on thingiverse maybe

[@Elektrognulf]

github.com/leonvandenbeukel/Homemade-CNC

[@alvydasurbonas8913]

i have one concern about threaded rods (for axis movement) not being attached to the frame just pushed in the bearings or attached to motor shaft. This could lead to some problems of threaded rods move longitudinal as the try to move gantry or other axis. Also this could start to load the motor bearings and wear them out. The rods should be fixed to the frame and connected to motor with coupler motor fixed to the frame too.

[@GroovyDrifter]

Well done, I plan on building one soon, very inspiring.

[@Drxxx]

me to

[@pesnet7]

Muito inspirador.

[@misteragony]

A few kilo's of filament later and I finally managed to finish my CNC build based on your design. Everything went rather smoothly, the only problem I encountered was that the Z axis top part cracked when I had to tighten the sliding part a bit further. Since this is my first build of this kind, I now need to figure out how to configure the axis in software. The M8 rods moves 1mm every turn I believe, for the Z axis acme rod these values will be completely different. Anyway thanks!

[@bobbyboy1962]

Hey any chance you could let me know what and where you bought all your electronics and stepper motors, trying to figure out the difference with the x axis stepper, Bob

[@misteragony]

@@bobbyboy1962 I just used the same stepper motors for all axis. I bought them here: www.aliexpress.com/store/product/5PCS-59Ncm-84oz-in-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-2A-4-wire-1m-Cable-for-DIY-3D/1984315_32589488227.html?spm=a2g1y.12024536.productList_1379871.pic_0 I bought a CNC shield v3 from aliexpress as well. As Power supply I also use an ATX PC psu. Just bridge two pins and the psu turns on. (www.instructables.com/id/How-to-power-up-an-ATX-Power-Supply-without-a-PC/).

[@andynichols3464]

That is an impressive design! Someone buy this man a beer!

[@cursed_665_times]

I understand there's no drilling template for Y sides because it depends on how big is my build... BUT, how did you take measurements for Y motors/bearings drilling holes?

[@ColtonCampbell]

The sped up sounds are mesmerizing haha

[@norkator]

Very nice that you kept original sounds!

[@nikolaipavlovi4]

Инженер-это состояние души)

[@isaacquevedoalmarza8736]

Felicitaciones . El único comentario que tengo es ,que la maquina es un verdadero mecano y tiene mas piezas que un automóvil. saludos.

[@spudnickuk]

Even tho im not going to make one, but what an informative vid you have done and shows of what 3d printing is meant for. 3d printers are for products cheaper and to the owners design. not just for making key rings so to speak. as one would just goto shop and buy such junk. i use my Anet A8 to make templates and jigs & parts that are to expensive to buy . Anyway thank you for showing.

[@julienmorris7051]

Great project. I've built my own also using printed parts. Worst part of that is waiting for the prints !

[@tomgray7049]

Thank you so much. This is pure awesome. You are a great craftsman. 😀😋🙌🏻🖖🏻👌🏻👍🏻

[@nikodembartnik]

Your machine is awesome! Do you have any links to milling bits that you use?

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Hi Nikodem, thanks! I saw your Dremel CNC machine too, really awesome! I mostly use cheap Chinese milling bits and I'm still experimenting which are the best. I've recently used these: goo.gl/2QTUVw

[@nikodembartnik]

​@@LeonvandenBeukel Thank you! How do you mount those to this router? Shank of them is 6mm or 4mm but collet of this router is 1/4 inch (6.35 mm)? Am I right? Do you have a custom collet?

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

I use an adapter collet from 6 to 4mm or 6 to 3.175mm.

[@tommym936]

Just pressed buy on a 3d printer specifically to make one of these. Will buy you a coffee :D.

[@a.p.2472]

Did you make it?

[@tucazbr]

Did you make it?

[@winchell406]

Did you make it?

[@richardthomas8838]

This is a little late make sure your 3D printer has a heated bed and use sugar and water brush it on the bed as it heats up the sugar caramelised the first layer will stick with out warping once cooled it will just pop off easy no scratch or scraping the bed can be done with PLA and ABS inclose the printer when doing ABS. And? Message me.

[@colinroye5833]

Did you make it?

[@paulaustin3850]

the router holding mechanism would make an awesome motor lift for a router table ....thanks for the video this is now my next project

[@XFX4JOHN]

Amazing Work, Really!

[@juanramirezjardua2082]

Very good video Leon, I enjoy watching it. Congratulations for your design. Looks very robust.

[@ZsomborZsombibi]

Amazing! I guess you've built a 3D printer with CNC-milled parts :)

[@brianfoster7064]

How much effort would it take to modify the motor mounted for nema23s? Of all the designs for DIY CNC builds, this one looks to be my best choice. I can readily get the steel tubing locally, and can get the parts printed locally easily enough. One of the things that I like most about this is that it can easily be modified to different sizes. For instance, I plan to build one that has a flat work area of just shy of a square meter. None of the printed portions need to be changed in order to accomplice this. Just two of the steel tubes, and one rod for movement. Price difference for the change is minimal.

[@preciousplasticph]

Second improve idea. Use phenolic plywood instead of mdf. It is much more weather resist

[@intelligenceservices]

Or even Baltic Birch plywood perhaps with lacquer?

[@elpoderdelchakrarojo]

Excelent video, i admire your precision while designing. Recently I developed an electronics welder with most of the mechanisms that you display here without even knowing about the existence of this video, this makes me wonder about the amount of creators that are synced without even knowing each other. People on my class used to mock about the use of threaded rod for linear movement and coupling nuts as mechanisms but i never listened to them and it worked flawlessly. Great job.

[@namocrafts1101]

Thank u very much good job . I think this would be my next project

[@fsecofficial]

I e built one of these before. The problem is the PLA will flex under load and cause you to break bits like crazy. Also the gantry has to be able to support a spindle that can go slow enough to cut anything outside of hobby materials. If you’re just doing wood though this will work for light jobs. Just buy good endmills

[@atiliogarciagimenez6133]

Increible amigo..

[@novoflp]

all right, would you suggest changing the Y axes to 1200mm and X 1000mm.

[@RoyThe4th]

Wow that was awesome thanks for sharing

[@JPSkriP]

I think this is the first time ive seen someone put threadlocker on after they have threaded the bolt on to the nut. Unless that wasnt threadlocker, but rather CA Glue. Dont see why. CA glue would just eventually break off, as is cant bond to the steel bolt or nut. And if it was threadlocker, im baffled. May i suggest unscrewing all of them about 1/4 back, and apply threadlocker on the threads of the bolts/screws, and then fasten them back. ,,,,, and finally... After that long winded observation notation, HAHAHAH...... AWESOME BUILD!!!! The print quality on the parts are impeccable!!!.

[@sotm6078]

Nice, but here is a pointer. If any of that Loctite gets on your plastic parts they are toast!

[@TheMerchMonkey]

Sotm no it isn’t I glue my plastic parts all the time with loctite, in fact I’m doing it right now, never once have I had a problem

[@sotm6078]

For your info Loctite is NOT a glue, it a metal to metal binder, and it WILL TURN PLASTIC BRITTLE given time!!

[@TheMerchMonkey]

No it doesn’t

[@sotm6078]

You will discover when it happens!

[@sotm6078]

You must mean Loctite brand name epoxy then! Not actual Loctite.

[@pierrotwars8312]

very nice realization, congratulations for your work LEON

[@yingbxua6240]

Great Project ! Now to add dust collector to cyclone filter with vacuum cleaner.... :-)

[@nekomuraねこ丸]

It's so wonderful. I have no choice but to imitate.

[@BorusBasis]

Хорошая работа. Но выбор материалов не совсем правильный. Направляющие по оси Z - из алюминия? Тогда они быстро износятся и появятся недопустимые зазоры. Даже если станок будет использоваться на лёгких работах - обработка мягких пластиков или дерева, например.

[@amaix]

(00.20) - Стальная квадратная труба. Только где автор нашел ее НЕ РЖАВУЮ - непонятно.

[@Alexandr0504]

странно, выглядит именно как алюминий. Вот по оси У понятно, что металл сразу )

[@MrDtproject]

Там же написано, труба и шпильки нерж

[@Harfinou]

2 words : AMAZING and WONDERFUL.

[@tuparlesfrancais5823]

And this is what KZbin should be for, NOT for watching kittens!

[@cursed_665_times]

Very nice build! I like this project beacause you can make it with parts easily available on any hardware store. I'd like to start building it, but I can't find any informations about the dimensions of the working base (I mean the wood base with holes). Maybe it is 610mm large and less than 1000mm long (1000mm as Y bars, less the panels thickness)? I would also know if the whole frame is fixed on the base, I don't see any clues on the video. Thank you so much!

[@xZander79]

aluminum 20x20 it's bad, ferrum it's good ! hevy metall ;)

[@lemmenstom7359]

Very cool. Maybe include a part list for the printed parts.

[@pausecafe8533]

Good job

[@wangouthangout]

Awesome build! Why not have direct drive for the z-axis?

[@fx1c333]

great build The bit that to me was a bit suss was 8.42 ish when you cable tied a nut on . Surely 3d printed part to hold nut would be better?

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

There's no force put on the nut, it's just to hold the spring in position. Ofcourse a 3d printed part is better, just lazy creating one :P

[@muratkazmaci1371]

After your video i've decided to build this cnc, but first i was needed a 3D printer, then i've already built own 3d printer :) Now your cnc project turn. i start soon :) thanks

[@kelemenjozsef8249]

Hi! I really like the project. Congratulations. My question? How stable, how accurate. How to withstand the bearing. I'm asking because I'm thinking I'll get involved. I would put up a 40 W laser. feasible for cutting engraving.

[@Azkubal]

I'm very, very impressed. Good work!

[@s_s7214]

Totally amazing! I appreciate you posting this video. Great inspiration for the tinkerer and visionaries within all of us. Please post more! Soon!

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks, I'll do my best to post more soon 🙂. Suggestions for a new project are welcome!

[@UDoIt2]

I'm really digging this design. So awesome!

[@SuperMaiki76]

Love that high speed sound

[@zacharychartrand5954]

Amazing work of art very well done and precise good for you keeping the maker space going!!!!

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks!

[@MaxlineMr]

Hello Leon. First of, thanks for this wonderful dessign, you are verry skilled with dessign and Fusion. Is it possible for you to make a drill template for the front and back wood pieces. Best regards

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Hi Max, thanks. It's a bit difficult to make a template for the front and back because it depends on the size of your machine. As you can see in the video I placed the 3d printed parts relative to each other. As long as you measure correctly it should work out good.

[@MaxlineMr]

@@LeonvandenBeukel I see what you mean, and thanks for taking time to answer.

[@soulpatch320]

feels like a classic diresta build...(sped up builds) good job

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks

[@marcialfontiveros3534]

Hi leon, unfortunately i don't have a 3d machine like you do to create parts for cnc. Anyways thanks in a million for giving time to reply. I really love your channel it is very informative.

[@ChrisBrindley-yakker]

While I admire the sort of tenacity involved in the design process, is there advantages to this system over V1 Engineering's MPCNC? I feel that their models are a lot sleeker and make use of smaller parts cutting down on print time and material, but yours have the robust thickness that'd make it quite sturdy. How much does that weigh?

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

I don't know how much the weight is. One of the differences is that MPCNC uses belts. But I don't have any experience with mpcnc.

[@JohnJaggerJack]

Adjustable axles and alignment. You thought of everything. Very condensed video, surely you had trouble "Zipping" all this work in under 12 minutes. Is there bloopers footage? For kick and giggles. Cheers.

[@mainframecn]

beautiful (re)design, a very pleasant video to watch

[@Stoney3K]

Interesting to see you use regular thread on the X and Y axes, was that just because of cost? I'm curious to see how the threads hold up compared to the lead screw used in the Z axis.

[@allanpennington]

This looks fantastic, well done. What level of fine adjustment can you make/achieve in each axis? Were you able to measure the accuracy of follow throughout the cut plane in each axis? This looks dependant on how well you can setup the rails upon which your bearing surfaces run. As you only used a square to mount the rails and I didn't see any fine adjustment screws on any of the mounts I assume you achieved the level of accuracy you are after. This of course is most accurate at the dead zero position centre of all axes and lessons the further you mill from that point. How might it compare with a commercial machine?

[@pmiller4799]

Excellent project, Now that you have had it a while, are you 100% happy with it or any more tweeks that you recommend? Cheers From UK :)

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks. I should level out the bed some time. I might change the stepper motors for stronger nema 23 someday (for now it's ok) and also change the lead screws to another type of lead screw to make it a bit faster. Oh yeah, and I should also do something with dust collection. Although I have build a large box around it the dust is going everywhere. Other than that I'm happy with the machine ;-)

[@jordbeets]

@@LeonvandenBeukel acme threaded rod on x and y?

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Yes probably

[@jordbeets]

@@LeonvandenBeukel thanks Leon! incredible project! Do you think the construction going to be rigid enough with the stronger steppers?

[@TheRainHarvester]

Nice design! How much sag do you get on the long axis? What wall-thickness of square channel is on that axis?

[@meansq]

Great job! only thing i would change is to change the lead screws. your z axis should be one with low pitch and x and y should be higher pitch imo

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Thanks for the suggestion Pouya

[@meansq]

No problem, It is really not a big deal, it all depends on what you are going to do with it. There is always trade off with speed vs strength. For Z axis I would consider going with lower pitch because you can lose precision when stepper motor is not on hold or just change the code to make sure it is always holding even when its not moving during the job.

[@chilrobberto1]

Die Anet A8 ziet er goed afgesteld uit! Mooie prints en mooi eindresultaat. Petje af

[@jhazel]

the audio on this is oddly relaxing.

[@moedig]

Small question, did you consider making the wooden upright pieces out of aluminum with your existing CNC? Wouldn't that last quite a while longer than the wood? Just curious why you would go with wood when the ability to make it out of aluminum is available. Is the thicker wood actually stronger than the relatively thin aluminum would be?

[@vasilisvorrias9848]

thatloserkidquinn, Leon did it the cheapest (but strong enough) way to proove that even with some spare wood that can be found somewhere abandoned can be used indeed will good results. Now if you want to make it with aluminum (that is my choice as well) please do it. Experiment with this material and may be (like others) find that it will suits you

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Just like Vasilis said, the cheapest but strong enough way. Aluminum is way more expensive (at least where I live).

[@panostaf2453]

Thank you very much Leon. Its working very smooth ;) Also tried aluminum and it seems that it can do it with a few upgrades.Maybe i try to cast the parts with aluminum.anyway Thanx again man great design.strong built!!!

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Awesome!

[@preciousplasticph]

Just out of curiosity why not use acme on all axis? You really need to get at least 3000mm min travel speed to mill good

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

I might change that in the future

[@darkwinter6028]

Two suggestions: 1, use something like PETG for anything that might be exposed to any amount of heat - PLA gets soft at rather low temperatures (motor mounts come to mind). 2, finish the wood with an oil-based polyurethane to help reduce the warping issue. 😀

[@LeonvandenBeukel]

Good suggestion, thanks.

[@terrybriley1887]

Great job. I am curios if you thought about using belts instead of rods?

[@Elgaragesdclaypole]

De todos los proyectos cnc que vi,este es el mas simple y espetacular,me fasino,...sos un groso,saludos desde Argentina👍🍻

[@PitchBlackCat]

Awesome! Im cobbling together a plan to build my own, and this build gave me some great ideas!

[@edwinkania5286]

I need to modify this to use NEMA 23 steppers because that is what was on my old CNC......Printing the parts right now......I tried doing the Root3 CNC but had issues sourcing the hardware and thought it was on the small side(the mounting hardware that is). This is much simpler and easier to assemble and square....IMHO