LePetit and LaGorda with FF125

Answering specific question about the use of this Fostex driver for the LePetit project.
;

[@EduardBroekman]

In Hiraga's 604 design (which also used musical scales for dimensions), the speaker was set at 0.324 and the port opening at 1/11th of case height for example, so both avoided/suppressed major standing waves. This may come in handy if you go with entirely new dimensions derived from musical scales. In my experience the depth and height are the most dominant, but it's nice to pick a 3-tone chord that sounds good to you and base the speakers' dimensions on such a chord.

[@iam_mad]

János, many thanks to Your help to the Petit! The value of Your input made even the creator himself recognize us and comment these videos, what is sign enough for the level of Your ingenuity! 👌👍👍 Well guess, I bought the FF125WK already, they are breaking in today first time. 😉 I actually want build both versions of a "modern" Petit with RWA dimensions, the 26,5L (maybe with massive spruce) and the 39,1L (with birch ply). BUT I don´t know, if 2 more builds will not evtl. confuse the people too much.. So which one should I build. 🤔 Putting the FF125 in the existing Petit would destroy the use for the FE103, and I´m in love with it!

[@SPH25]

Hey, great idea can you put the FF125 in the OG cabinet? And built the original FE back?

[@iam_mad]

@@SPH25 I just recieved the FF125Wk a few days ago, I think they are a bit too big to go back, once the hole was cut bigger.. At least in my feeling, putting the smaller FE103 into the bigger hole takes away this super-sturdy feeling of the original build. Maybe it is possible, I must try in a template maybe..

[@Thiago_S..]

Hi Janos, you mentioned in past videos the advantages of slotted ports. Any specific reasons why you are not recommending them for these build suggestions? Thank you

[@hugobloemers4425]

Hi Janos, I like the idea of tuning the enclosure to the notes of music. That one I never considered and is defiantly worth the try. I also like the choice of wood. Not only does it perform better, for my taste, there is no need for veneer, as the beech ply wood by it self looks very nice with some clear lacquer. As for the port tuning, I would actually sacrifice some deep base to get more mid base. I think that will work better with classic rock. So perhaps tune the port to about 55 Hz.

[@iam_mad]

Hello Hugo! János will love to see Your comment, but the laquer will trigger him... 😆😂 he wants the wood natural... About the port tuning I think similar, too much deep bass cannot replace a punchy mid bass!

[@hugobloemers4425]

@@iam_mad Thanks for the reply, I follow your project also on your channel.

[@iam_mad]

@@hugobloemers4425 Yes, it is my honor! Nice to meet You here too 😀

[@realworldaudio]

Hello Hugo, Jürgen, good thoughts! ;). Indeed, a lot of deep bas does not replace good midbass. However - the big however. In real life I have not yet ran into that problematic, but see/hear the overblown midbass & lacking deep bass ad nauseam. It's basically a staple of the modern American high end speaker sound... and tuning American-taste speakers lower fixes the bloated mids and adds the much missing lows. Much more listenable experience. However, for rock purposes you can tune it higher. Ran it through WinISD, 9.25cm long port for the 55Hz tuning. (Hint - hint!) That will give quite a bit more midbass. (Hint-hint!) Have fun!! ; ) And yes, avoid the lacquer. Let it break in properly. Then, if you think its too lively, ONLY THEN add the lacquer. Anything added to the cab deadens it CONSIDERABLY. Will tone down the live concert feel to a straight-jacketed recording feel.. not something you want for rock!

[@hugobloemers4425]

@@realworldaudio Hello Janos, thanks for the feed back. Question, would you then oil the wood? Having it just exposed is not going to be a long term solution.

[@kyb4649]

Hello, Janos. I'm sure you've mentioned it somewhere in your vidoes but I would like to ask you a question about the driver positioning. For the cabinet dimentions you've provided in this vedio, should I use the original Hiraga design? It looks like the centre of the driver is mounted at 123mm from the top. Also, I am very curious to know about the effect if I were to lower the position of the driver. Thank you.

[@TitofBee]

Janos, please, what do you mean exactly by dampening the basket ? can you show how you do this ? why different AWG for + or - wires ? what is the electrical sense of this ?

[@andredebacco]

Thanks Janos!

[@SPH25]

Hi Janosh. What do you mean. The Fe 103 NV has a Mms 2.5 gr. The 125 5gr. Don't you think the 125 is a little slower than the 103 nv ? So maybe not so agile?

[@gyosik5527]

hi, thanks for your video. By the way, it's hard for me to understand what you're saying because the recent video doesn't have subtitles. In the previous video, Google's automatic translation was used to understand what you were saying. Please check the subtitles in your video. thanks for "Real World Audio"

[@realworldaudio]

Hello, it does have subtitles, but YT takes time to process the sound and create it - about 8-10 hours after posting the subtitles become available. Try it again, now the subtitles are ready. ; Thank you!

[@Fluxliner]

Is the extra front baffle really necessary for good sound? Also would it be advisable to build these with solid wood/live?

[@thomasschafer7268]

In the 80s it was forbitten to build with massive wood. Because of resonance.

[@dilbyjones]

What OS you using, can this program be used on Linux?

[@MrBazsi888]

What do you think about Harman curve ?

[@hugobloemers4425]

I prefer the female one.

[@MrBazsi888]

@@hugobloemers4425 :D me ...too, or at least W.

[@TheZpilot55]

Hi Janos. Thanks for the vídeo. Now please help me. Some members from a famous forum for "diy audio" say that thin 22awg solid wires are best suitable for FRs, Mark Áudio Alpairs, in this matter. Thanks for comments and clarifications.

[@rickg8015]

Hi José.. I think that 22awg solid core reccomendation is more for Chipamps or other high damping factor amps for use with low Qts drivers.. But best is to try for yourself..

[@TheZpilot55]

@@rickg8015 Hi Thanks a lot for comments.!! BTW, It seems hard to me to know how high or low Qts is. Is there a practical high-low values range you can tell me?

[@iam_mad]

If You want to play it safe, buy enameled wire that has solderability. Perfect for this job is the diameter of ø 0,5mm. If You twist 6 or even 8 threads of that You have an high end wire. It will be shown most likely in my next episode of the build #4.

[@rickg8015]

@@TheZpilot55 Usually it is a Qts of around 0.2 or lower that is really considered low.. Anyway in my opinion, focus more on the quality of the wire first than the guage.. If you use a tube amp don’t worry too much about wire guage, empirical testing would let you know what works best in your system with the Le Petit FF125wk. Please follow Jurgen’s build too.

[@realworldaudio]

Hello José, the AWG22 solid wire is a superb choice. Just use 16 runs for the negative, and 12 runs for the positive. In general, use AWG20 or thinner wires, and parallel them. If you use only 1 of each, there will be next to no bass. Well, there will be good bass, but nothing like what the speaker can do. Adding the extra runs will seem as if you have added a sub.

[@hoobsgroove]

no I don't agree that the frequency of note is advisable.. the only note you want to look for is E-flat in its octaves, you need to use a signal generator to see where your peaks and troughs are and compensate for the peaks. I don't know how you're getting those frequency on just size alone, thickness and material would change its sound resonance properties scale. what chart calculator are you using on length to given frequency scale? you start boosting resonant frequencies you going to get problems and smearing in the notes and cancellation has to be tuned to 1 scale that's e- flat is the best. if you're going around the corner you need to do it at least 2 inch ideally 2½"-3"otherwise just don't bother is no benefit. and leave the outer corner not bevelled closest to the wall just do the top and inner edge. ideally the placement of the driver would be on the inner side not the middle an inch from the inner edge, would work a lot better that why! because of such a wide baffle! the original speaker material was chipboard/particleboard 1-inch, and I would stick to that at least on the front baffle air pressure doesn't cause resonance only very small amount about 88% is mechanical resonance that's what you need to be filtering controlling not the air pressure.

[@iam_mad]

The music-notes dimensioned cabinet is a specialised philosophy of cabinet building. To explain this philosophy You should watch János´ videos regularily, it is very interesting! 😊 To answer this critic in one comment, is most likely not possible.

[@hoobsgroove]

@@iam_mad hes not going to achieve what he wants to achieve anyway by just knowing the length of different parts, as I explained. and is not good to highlight certain frequencies in instruments because it will be detrimental to other frequencies in the scale of the instruments only exception if the driver can't produce it in it's frequency spectrum. and this is coloration.. what will mask other parts of the music or instruments. if you do it in E flat what is a very musical and is out of the way of the main notes it will give more life body to the instruments being played, I've been there done it. I tried different scales in the past and that is the best. of course you're never going to achieve it 100% with all scale pitch and every scale you have to judge what is right for the project, the rule of thumb usually that's middle to lower range. me sceptic never 😂 his analytics is flawed!!!!

[@dilbyjones]

Hi. The driver is a bit expensive for me kind sir..lol

[@hugobloemers4425]

If you conciser that you do not need a tweeter and no cross over, the driver is a bargain. The whole point is that this design has some high end characteristics. If you want that, then this kind of money is the bare minimum you can get away with.