Let's talk about Seacocks part 2

[@chrissmith2286]

Well, for a change - clear, articulate, no “dude” or street slang (which I was half expecting), no “umm”s and “ahh”s! WELL, WELL, DONE!! You deserve more followers and support. Do more videos please!

[@chrisbates2533]

Excellent, detailed instructional video! Your series of Seacock videos gives me all the info I need to do the job: Tools required, tricks and tips, hardware required, sealant choices, adhesive choices, and "how to" to ice the cake. Well done. I am a professional mechanic. I have an old, newly acquired, old sailboat, and it needs 2 new thru-hulls. Of course, I want to DIY; however, I have never done this job on this kind of boat before, and I feel like I can go get it done now. This is one of the best "How To" videos I have seen, and I have watched thousands.

[@manazo16]

I just spent time watching Part 1 and Part 2. All i can say is THANK YOU!

[@brianhogan9266]

Thank you for being thorough in your KZbin video. It is often tiring to spend 15 minutes trying to gather installation information on important systems like this for your boat only to find out that the video was rushed, incomplete and missing important steps.

[@MikeTLive]

Exceptional 2 part video series that stands the test of time. I learned things from you. thanks for posting!

[@ThatOldMan2112]

Very well done video. Clean, concise, detailed, and thorough. I only see two things that could be improved. 1. On the otter hull, there is no need to run the 4200 out on the hull in a ring around the mushroom head. This is esthetic rather than functional - while it doesn't hurt anything, it would look a lot better to have cleaned that off. 2. This IS functional. It appears you put your grounding wire on with just a car-style ring connector. Electrical connections in marine - especially salt water - especially in a bilge area - should always be done with marine heat shrink connectors and an extra length (2" or so) of heat shrink over the connector and up the wire. That wire will end up corroding at that connection, especially if tinned copper wire was not used. Other than those nit-picky points, very well done.

[@stevearnott00]

Great video from guy who clearly knows how to do a good job-I have just bought a boat and this has given me a fantastic understanding.

[@ben-dana9172]

Excellent video! Watching this gave me the confidence to tackle this job myself

[@AthelstanEngland]

Two excellent videos sir, thank you! Whilst I agree with the robust and longevity of the proper bronze fittings certainly the latest plastic composite units (TruDesign probably the market leader now) meet all the safety standards and of course are lighter and don't suffer from electrolysis. Longevity I guess probably still to be proved. TruDesign also provide a load spreader to meet regs in the US market (not required in UK or EU although available still).

[@jacobhester11]

Thank you so much for an excellent presentation. Jack, Gardiner, Maine

[@captbobsadventures4420]

Very nicely done, I'm doing the same project using the same parts. Great job.

[@carlajarrett]

Thank you for the video. Helped me step through installing 2 new seacocks on my boat. Appreciate it.

[@chrissmith2286]

And... few people take the time to oppose hose clamps. You know your marine applications. Again, good job!

[@granteldridge2080]

Excellent video, very thorough explanation of a quality job!

[@apackwestbound5946]

Very nice KZbin video; great personality, information and presentation. Thank you very much!

[@selfinspiration]

Wow. This has been incredibly helpful. None of our sea cocks have grounding wires. No wonder they are so corroded in just one year.

[@dougdoug2165]

Great thorough explanation of the subject. I was busily taking notes through both segments. I was wondering how you got the mushroom to bottom out perfectly without having to cut it down a bit?

[@robertmartin4344]

Thanks again for the great video, it will save me money as I can now Do It Myself.

[@debbiemacpherson8606]

Where did you get your parts

[@2i0ber]

Well done Sir!

[@waynemcphail7825]

EXCELLENT PRESENTATION.

[@scottratte1]

Hello Russell. Really appreciate the detailed video. I am installing the same seacock, but with Strainer, not mushroom. Also the strainer has 4 brass screws that will thread into bottom of hull. What are the sequence of steps considering the strainer will need to be sealed/secured to the bottom of the hull before the seacock is screwed on inside the hull. I would think you either have to forego the sealant on the underside of the seacock flange or accept that it will make a mess as it spins to align with the bolt holes. Thanks, in advance for the add'l advice

[@jayhamiltonwild]

Great job Bro 👍 thanks for the vid

[@Chas1160]

Russ, how can you tell a seacock is open ? Does the lever have to be straight up? You pull it up to open and push it down to close?

[@BetterHearingLimited]

Hi. What size are the bolts for the flange and backing plate? Excellent video

[@russellsrandomness]

I'm not sure, I actually ended up selling the boat or I'd check.

[@LOJOMarine]

That is the best Video to date on what I need to do to my boat very good detail what kind of boat do you have I am a new subscriber

[@russellsrandomness]

Thank you! Im hoping to have more ckming very soon. Its a 1985 Bayliner Contessa 2850

[@LOJOMarine]

mine is a 1987 Bayliner contessa 2850

[@seangfoster1974]

Very nice video! I'm an getting ready to do exactly this with my cockpit drain system. Thank you. I'll be using 4200 sealant with epoxy thickened with Cab-O-Sil (fumed silica). Do you recommend fast or slow hardener?

[@scottdominski8647]

Awesome video, Thanks. I understand how it works. I just don't know if I have a 3/4 or 1 inch seacock/valves for my 2005 Bayliner 245. Thanks again!!

[@SOLDOZER]

The hose should say on it what size you use.

[@5VABrowns]

Well done.

[@TheMorganMonroeShow]

Perfect. Thank you soooooo much dude. You rule. #OfTheEpic

[@joeblanchard8507]

does the Teflon tape cause. A break in bonding?

[@aljohnson8473]

Great Work .

[@kevintobin8554]

did you show how to trim the tru=hull fitting that screws into the valve ? cause i must of missed it,

[@redwood1957]

Good job. Did you put the 4200 around the flange, and did the thru hull nipple need to be trimmed( shortened) before threading into the valve? Thank you

[@russellsrandomness]

Thank you, just trying to help some folks out. I did use 4200, maybe even 5200 around the flange, I can't remember at this point. haha. and the nipple didn't need to be trimmed because I had enough space.

[@ddan5842]

I’m stuck at 9:21. How do I remove the thru hull? You don’t show the “method”

[@arthurcitron9774]

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

[@rezas2385]

Great. Thank you

[@thetkhineoo2750]

Thank you Russell ! I am going to replace for my sailboat next month , I will copy like you do. Appreciated . But I still want to see how you apply SIX 10 on backing block . Do I need clamp or pressure on block ?

[@russellsrandomness]

I used the mushroom fitting itself wrapped in teflon to prevent the six10 from bonding to the mushroom to clamp it. Snugged it down and let it sit overnight and then took the seacock and mushroom off for final sealant adhesive and assembly.

[@thetkhineoo2750]

@@russellsrandomness Thank you so much .

[@willyum1208]

@@russellsrandomness Why did you use epoxy and not 4200 to bond the backing plate to the hull?

[@russellsrandomness]

@@willyum1208 The fasteners for the seacock are only mechanically connected (with threads) to the backing plate. I wanted the bond between those threads and the hull to be as solid as can be. Where the 4200 would be able to be repaired in the future, as long as those threads don't get messed up that backing plate will never need to be repaired.

[@kevintobin8554]

why didn't you use the clam shell type that acts like a strainer ?

[@MrGeorgeferreira]

excellent.

[@dennisbott2069]

Nicely done. I have two I need to change. I will let you do mine. :-)

[@alansugarman2631]

Do you use the 4200 on the thread of the thru-hull [you put your phone down!!] Really nice video. Very clear.

[@meganote]

I have the same question. Covered every detail except that.

[@TheLivingstoneman]

Perfect

[@marcos22571]

What are seacocks used for on a boat?

[@cenkandic]

to cool the engine.

[@CaptDanSailing]

All done so well but....then to use 4200? A below the waterline fitting should be as bomb proof as possible. 5200 is the way to go with anything going thru the hull under the water line. Otherwise very nicely done :)

[@johnwhite252]

No mention of thru hull fitting length? Too long, can't tighten the backing plate and flange for bonding to hull. Good video.

[@dougdoug2165]

I was wondering the same thing...seems like either his mushroom was exactly the right length or he decided not to let us see that part.

[@lagrotty2360]

Thanks heaps for that vid mate. Hey have you heard of trudesign fittings made in New Zealand?

[@russellsrandomness]

I have not. Ill check then out

[@annaconigliaro7133]

4:15

[@Joseph-cy3ns]

You should’ve used fresh water hookup for toilet. Raw water is very nasty and smelly. Great video though.

[@russellsrandomness]

Never had a problem with that on the freshwater lake she was on, but in stinky waters I could see that being an issue. Thanks for the compliment and watching!

[@Propman203]

Dyi you should have used stainless steel bolts not steel your forgetting about water ang steel makes rust oops 😱 now you have rust stains in the boat . Yes acetone not lighter fluid,

[@sysublime5091]

If you put PVA or Vaseline on the threads of the thu hull, your epoxy will not bind up. What you will get is a near screw in thread.

[@sysublime5091]

You didn't mention if you had to cut the thru hull to length