Leviton vs Lutron Smart Switches

[@ZackaryTwiddles1]

As an electrician with Lutron Caseta installed in my home: 1- You don't want switches directly connected to your router for a number of reasons not the least of which is routers have a max device connection limitation. The more devices the more issues you have with WiFi. 2) The dimmers electronics supplied with Caseta work with virtually all LED drivers, I have yet to find one that would not work properly. 3) The PICO remote is a major money savor as well as much easier to install since it doesn't require a wired connection to control a light already wired into another Caseta dimmer. Think 3Way and 4Way switches like in hallways with multiple points to turn on a light. 4) The price of the system when you factor in Pico instead of having to buy another hardwired dimmer module is far less expensive than Leviton. 5) Issues, none, not one, through power outages and router changes. They stay connected and work, if you change your router you are not reprogramming 50 switches, your just updating the hub connection and your back up and running. Research before you buy you will probably choose Lutron.

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Thanks for the helpful comment. I've found the Lutron Caseta system easy to install and very reliable. If you can get a kit or package: amzn.to/33m8EQR usually you can get a good deal on the hub and a few switches. Biggest advantage I've seen with the Lutron Caseta system is that they don't require a neutral wire, and the hot and load wire are non directional which makes installation easier even in older homes without a neutral or where people may have a hard time determining which wire is hot and which is load.

[@FirstLastOne]

You may be an electrician but you show your lack of knowledge in wired and wireless LAN with your comment. The biggest issue with ALL smart connected home devices is that people don't know how to set them up. Whether you have one or hundred won't make a difference but if you don't isolate them on their own IoT VLAN, then you might have 'other' issues. Think snooping and security.

[@pnnielsen]

@@FirstLastOne Bingo! I was considering the Leviton Z-wave, but that would be new to me and I have decades of experience with WiFi. What you say is 100% correct. WiFi is great when set up correctly. The Lutron or Leviton z-wave may be better for people that can't manage their WiFi environment...

[@jimbates6227]

This reply is not intended as a rebuttal or disagreement with your conclusions. It’s just my personal experience. I chose Lutron Caseta for the following reasons. (1) My research into smart switches using Zigbee, Z-Wave & Wi-Fi uncovered lots of complaints about reliability, connectivity issues, pairing/unpairing problems, etc. I didn’t see the same level of trouble with Caseta. (2) I didn’t want to add dozens of devices to my Wi-Fi network when I also use Wi-Fi for video streaming (cord-cutting). (3) Zigbee and Z-Wave have been and seems will continue to be vying for supremacy and didn’t want to pick 1 only to have the other be the eventual winner. (4) I liked that the Caseta switches/dimmers work in both single or X-way circuits. I just have to add Picos (at about $20/ea.) (5) My entire 5 BR/3 Bath 3,300 sq/ft home has about 50 switched circuits so if I automated the entire home (switches and Picos) I’d still not exceed the 75-device capacity of the Lutron bridge. (6) I didn’t want my automation lighting solution to require Internet service. (7) I didn’t want to be forced to use a smartphone app for automation. So far, I’ve added 7 switched locations and 2 Picos. WAF has been great so I am slowly adding more. I’m automating with Hubitat, although I also use both the Lutron app and voice control. The installation, configuration and operation has been flawless. I am glad I chose Lutron. Other solutions might work equally well but I feel Lutron best fit for my requirements.

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Lutron is a great smart light switch! Thank you for you insightful comment.

[@pnnielsen]

My take on this is that the number of complaints is proportional to the number of devices sold. As for WiFi, yes, that requires planning and experience. You would of course create a totally separate and isolated segment for your lighting...

[@alanmoore2197]

Lutron Caseta clear connect RF technology has proven to be 100% reliable for me - never a failure in operation, nor any component going bad - I can't say that about any other system I have installed. The Pico remotes are brilliant (including 4 button scene remotes) - anywhere mounting & the battery life on these is quite amazing. Lutron's hub seems to connect to virtually everything. Lutron's Claro wall-plates come in up to 6 gang and at least 30 colors/finishes. I think Leviton is also a good brand - but I chose Lutron for a whole house based on features (including blinds) and have no regrets at all.

[@othercharr]

Why be in fear of a hub? A huge advantage of Lutron is the ClearConnect wireless protocol and keeping things off of WIFI. ClearConnect is in a wireless space that is in the same frequency as a garage Door opener. So there is not a lot of traffic in that space. Additionally it is supper secure. In my house I have Luton and Philips Hue. Between the two I have 97 devices. With two hubs, none of that is on my wireless. Imagine having 97 lighting control devices, plus cameras, computers, TV, mobile devices, etc... your network will be saturated. Now add in people such as yourself that is broadcasting wireless down the street and you have the potential for a lot of interference. Other than two power outages, neither hub has gone off-line for any reason in the past five years when they were originally installed. HUBS ARE GOOD!!! Besides... Lutron invented the dimmer... they know dimming better than anyone else.

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Jeff, Lutron Caseta switches are amazing and probably the easiest smart switches to install because they don't have a neutral wire. The issue that can arrise with a hub is that some people don't like having extra devices connected to their routers, or have a router that only has 1 or two extra jacks which might already be taken. It's easily solved with the addition of an ethernet switch but I'm just comparing the pros and cons of each system. Thank you for your informative comment and opinion. I have both in my house and neither one has ever given me an issue, and think the Lutron Castea system is a very well thoughtout quality system as is the Leviton system. I'm just trying to educate people on the products so they can make the best decision for them. I appreciate it when viewers contribute their personal expereinces to help people in their decisions. Thank You.

[@c.taplin6427]

Great review. Had 35 lutron switches in previous home and now considering leviton instead. Lutron reliability was solid but always thought switch was kinda ugly...like the look and slider on the leviton... Suspiciously missing is the leviton dimmer motion detector option which is a game changer imo. Did you not test that unit?

[@russellpetersen6236]

Would a larger home have any issues with Lutron? I'm looking at Lutron for a roughly 8000 sq ft house (2 story), I see there are range extenders but it looks like only 1 extender is allowed per hub? Also, I may have just missed it in my readings so far but can you have multiple hubs? Do you cap out at a certain number?

[@tigerblood6823]

Does it have a three way dimmer?

[@michaelb1478]

I initially had Leviton switches about five years ago. I had about 10 installed initially. They were terribly flaky and unreliable. I ended up uninstalling those and after trying Wemo and also experiencing disconnection issues I tried Lutron. They have been rock solid for 3-4 years and I now have 57 switches. Maybe leviton has improved but after investing in and wasting money on both other main brands Lutron is hands down the most reliable.

[@pnnielsen]

Leviton Zwave, Zigbee, or WiFi?

[@rrassoc]

No discussion of cost?

[@steveprichard9655]

I have a light that is backfed, how would I wire that, (Using Leviton) there is only one wire in the box w/ black, white and ground

[@georgemata5187]

I purchased 40 of the Leviton (DW6HD-1BZ) dimmers installed, unfortunately the ones you listed do not work with Homekit, do you have a work around?

[@philipm33]

Holy crap! thats alot of money invested in the wrong product! Check out HOOBS as a work around

[@SS-jj3ql]

If you would like to use Lutron only, you could buy its hub and devices. I will choose product with open standard so that in future I could easily replace it

[@sjackson9264]

The load on the WiFi network is why I went with lutron, one hub connected instead of each switch

[@pnnielsen]

There's no load on the WiFi network, but yes, you need to plan and segment... It's not plug & play if you want it to perform.

[@sjackson9264]

@@pnnielsen if it’s individually connected to Wi-Fi then inherently it’s a load. The router can only connect to so many devices.

[@pnnielsen]

@@sjackson9264 You're right in that this may be a problem with an older router, but a modern router like the Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro will handle 2,000 concurrently connected clients. Times have changed...

[@arniebearak556]

Hi, I am thinking of switching from wink hub to the lutron hub. Can I connect leviton smart switches to this lutron hub, or only lutron cassettas? I have mostly lutron cassetta in my house and maybe one or two leviton switches in my network. And these are older smart switches that probably would never connect direectly to amazon alexa thanks

[@OneHourSmartHome]

You can only connect Lutron Caseta Switches : amzn.to/3ct6ELx to the Lutron Caseta Hub: amzn.to/3rCblHy it will not work with the Leviton switches. In my experience the Lutron Hub has been much more reliable than the Wink hub.

[@arniebearak556]

@@OneHourSmartHome Thank you. Arnie

[@hcjfmc]

Can i pair one smart switch to two phones (Leviton)?

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Yes, you can do that with Leviton: amzn.to/33tw7yK and Lutron: amzn.to/3bRzBPm . Multiple devices can be used to control the smart light switches.

[@sbfieldhockey]

Helpful video!

[@chancho00]

Lutron is way ahead with their wireless tech, even if you don't have wifi they work flawlessly with their pico switches, I have those in my bed,desk in my room and the whole house, no even need to open an app to turn off/on a light with those little switches.

[@johnwhite2576]

Has anyone else noticed/can confirm the voltage drop using Lutron caseta ?

[@49ways]

I have a older house with 2 wire conductor no ground.. Can I use the leviton switch? Cap the hot/line together with my hot line?

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Do you have a neutral? Without a neutral you can't use the Leviton switch. However you can still use the Lutron Switches: amzn.to/2zcjDAb

[@49ways]

@@OneHourSmartHome.. Ehhhhh my house is old as shit 1942.. I just went with the Lutron.. 2 conductor one hot and one not hot.. I assume it's the neutral.. I believe it's called 'bx cable'

[@OneHourSmartHome]

@@49ways Yeah, the Lutron switches will work with your setup.

[@FirstLastOne]

I have been using Caseta dimmers for over 5 years and it's been a hit and miss depending on what you're dimming. Caseta dimmers work but are limited by their outdated, analogue dimming circuitry which Lutron has been using for well over 30 years. It's old and inefficient technology that's very limited. Expect to loose about 12% of your supply voltage to the dimmer's antiquated technology. It was really noticeable back in the Halogen lighting days with Lutron's previous dimmer lines and still noticeable now with the Caseta line when you use higher end LED PAR20, PAR30 and PAR38 LEDs with a super high output and high CRI. What you see with a voltage meter at the e26 socket with the dimmer at full setting is around 103V to 106V on a 120V supply which ends up taking the edge off high performance LED lights and making them look average. If you are only using average, middle of the road LEDs and/or almost always dimming them, then it's no problem as you won't miss having 12% less light output at the top to begin with. How Lutron can call these 'smart light controls' when they are still using 30+ year old analogue dimming technology is beyond embarrassing. Why not go completely digital when the light sources these days are for the most part digital?

[@alanmoore2197]

Caseta are fully digital dimmers, they may still not be full voltage range - but analog circuitry is not the reason.

[@durtydeedsREI]

Sorry man but having dozens of switches connected to my WiFi when I already have several dozen just doesn't do it for me. I'm good with the ONE hub connected and all the switches connected to that hub.

[@brunoquenneville492]

Wrong. Having a neutral is not related to the power required to feed an electrical device. Best example, in heating (Canada and USA), most of it is 220/240V and does not require any neutral. I think it would be more of how the device (dimmer) are internally made.

[@alanmoore2197]

Wrong! - with a light switch with no neutral all you have is the power running though the bulb when off to provide you power - there is no other return path. There is no analogy to a 220V circuit since there one of the phases is the return path. Unless your total operating power including while transmitting is small enough to hide without making the bulb glow (inefficient, annoying & unacceptable) - then you cannot operate in a typical switchbox without a neutral. Lutron's clear connect uses only microwatts, WiFi much more.

[@brunoquenneville6396]

@@alanmoore2197 Your answer has really nothing to do with my previous comment. Lol

[@alanmoore2197]

@@brunoquenneville6396 You really don't understand what you are talking about do you?

[@brunoquenneville492]

@@alanmoore2197 I'd return the question. You say in 220V one of the phase is the return path. In fact, in 220V, there is only one phase. Your point is good but mine is still right. Having or not a neutral wire doesn't influence the power a device is using. The road taken by the current is different but the device itself will draw what current it is built for to draw. Independantly of a neutral wire or not.

[@alanmoore2197]

​@@brunoquenneville492 If you have a single phase 220V circuit you must use a neutral for every circuit as the only return path (so power is supplied between single phase hot and neutral). In the USA (it is after all an American talking) 220v household power is 2 phase with a neutral (to allow for 110V circuits). For 220V you use both phase lines without the neutral (so power is supplied between the 2 phases [without using neutral]). For 110V power you use either phase and neutral. The point you miss is its not AT ALL about what power the device Wants to consume. It all about how much power it can get from its power supply which in this 110v case is this path: From one hot phase through the dimmer device on to the bulb and from the bulb to the neutral. So the bulb is ALWAYS in series in the circuit. For the bulb to be fully off it needs to have zero current - which means the dimmer will have zero current. Obviously it can't work with zero current and it has to respond to button presses and to RF requests while the bulb is off in order to be smart. So how does it work? It actually never turns the bulb off fully so it can continually harvest power from this very small current - which must be low enough for the bulb not to glow annoyingly). Things got a lot harder with LED bulbs because they can glow noticeably with much less current than an incandescent bulb. If you have a neutral available in the switch box this is irrelevant because you can get power to operate the device independently (Phase to Neutral) so the bulb doesn't interfere with your power access. . Please stop pretending you know what you are talking about.

[@BallsworthBallsbury]

Thanks for the video, nice job. I respectfully disagree with some of your logic. You call out the following drawbacks of Lutron Caseta: 1. Sometimes you need to take steps to extend Lutron's wireless network 2. Sometimes someone might power off the Lutron hub. You're correct that those are drawbacks to Lutron, but you're to imply they're unique to Lutron---they also apply to any WiFi based device including the Leviton! You're arbitrarily assuming that someone's home WiFi network has full coverage, and you're also arbitrarily assuming that nobody will ever turn off the WiFi access points. Just seems like you're being a little inconsistent.

[@jaredross9]

Versus, not Verse!

[@artz9643]

No offense James, just some constructive criticism, the lighting on this video is HORRIBLE! Everything appears bleached. Please fix it before your next video.

[@durtydeedsREI]

My eyes, it's too bright!!!

[@martindurkin5223]

STOP saying ALEXA!!!

[@sbfieldhockey]

Helpful video!

[@sbfieldhockey]

Helpful video!

[@OneHourSmartHome]

Glad you think so!