Lifeboat Conversion Ep42: Getting on with a load of smaller jobs inside and outside of Alan [4K]

[@yuriykovalov2936]

Hi, any chance we could get a link to your other channel?

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

kzbin.info/door/ivgV3D4DqMuhm8SisrcjTQ

[@Leightr]

"...over engineered, but uses materials I had to hand." Written invisibly on the wall of every tinkerers workshop.

[@angrydragonslayer]

"yes, the feet on it are made from weirdly shaped diamonds, dont ask"

[@crestedtern1390]

After seven years, our sealant on paint double glazed poly is A: Intact and B: Watertight. Has copped everything from sub zero Canadian to 40 plus Celsius down under . Also I figured this type of install could easily be repaired if required, and was easier to install outer poly pieces.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

This is reassuring. Thanks.

[@premaji4520]

For the polycarbonate screen I suggest after sticking use a masking tape above it and spray paint the edge of it to hide glue residue and for another coating against leakage.

[@gatekeeper84]

I finally laughed at one of your jokes. Well done!

[@SirLuke226]

This episode is the answer to the ultimate question, of Life, the Universe, and Everything. I never thought I'd see it.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I simply won't abide claims we don't deal with the big things on the Alan playlist.

[@teeanahera8949]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals did I miss 42? Or is 42 a mysterious number that always comes up when doing any mathematical calculation in regard to any dimension/hardness/oxidation/stretch/UV protection/paint longevity/conductivity etc on Alan?

[@TheRealDoctorBonkus]

As a brother to a boatowner I can confirm, that chatting on the dock with other residents may take up a substantial amount of time

[@jpsimon206]

You might want to look up something called a heim joint. I'm sorry, but I'm not positive about the spelling. It is largely what you have assembled here, but in a smaller tighter and more precise package. The eye bolts have an integral bearing that allows them about 10° of movement either direction. There is functionally a turnbuckle built into the device itself. When you need something to stay still in an overall envelope being battered and flexed, using heim joints in pairs or fours is a great way to affix something in the center of the space. I've even seen them used to hover a battery Bank where the engine used to be in a converted sailboat. For whatever reason, an inch of water would always pool in that location.

[@jeremykamel9655]

Re-double glazing the windows. Adhesive-If the paint is adhered good then I’d only use proper primer for whatever Sika you choose based on material (paint and poly). Prep- I’d run a beed around the lip where the current window and the fiberglass meet. For which will become evident momentarily. Procedure- when you adhere the new poly glass on I’d leave two point (one top, one bottom) where you will put straws into the cavity between the two windows. Then use those straws to insert inert gas between the panes of glass. This will keep moisture out which will happen due to the inside and outside of the boat being as different temps. After the inert gas is in then remove the straws and fill the holes with sika to seal. If don’t put inert gas in you’ll have major visibility problems. This is also why you want to make sure to use primer for the sika. Because you want good adhesion to avoid the gas leaking out. Otherwise you’ll end up taking that outer window off somewhere in the middle of the arctic because you can’t see. Alternatively you can drill and thread holes top and bottom in the outer glass where you can install bolts to seal. Then you can add more inert gas later if needed. All double pane glass windows in building and homes have inert gas to prevent moisture.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Thanks Jeremy. I've prepped so I can have a replaceable desiccant bar in the void, but flushing with argon sounds good too.

[@gca259]

RE: Polycarbonate glazing detailing. Use blind stainless steel self tapping threaded inserts (say M5, 15mm deep, bedded in epoxy/polyester) set back 20mm from the perimeter of the window opening. Glue round section neoprene (say 10mm diameter) between the inserts and the window opening to form a gasket. Drill (and countersink) the polycarbonate to align with the inserts and clamp the sandwich together with stainless steel machine screws. Should be watertight, easy to maintain/replace...and doesn't rely on sealant goo/paint ;-)

[@jeremymessier8363]

Alex from years of experience hand drilling stainless on boats I always have on hand a few Garr NC spot drills. I prefer edp# 9100, 91522 and 91546. These are very free cutting and require a lot less effort to hand drill all the through most applications, then a simple size up with a twist drill to finish it off. Not sure about sourcing in the UK but worth a look.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I'll have a search. Thanks

[@alan-sk7ky]

Id, put the polycarb on the inside if possible, make it removable to clean inside. Better to have the hard glass ( if it is glass) on the outside it would take scraping ice off better for a start. Having the polycarb inside, it having a lower thermal mass will improve the condensation inherently let alone the double glazing aspect.

[@ianmaddams9577]

Alan is coming along nicely. Look forward to the final project being completed 👍🏻

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

You and me both! Some big works this summer, and then we really should be down to the finishing touches.

[@colinbolton5986]

Polyurethane paints are generally very resistant materials. I would suggest that you try lightly abrading a small area and testing the compatibility with the adhesive you have chosen. I'm sure you must have some scrap pieces that have the paint on them that you can use as test samples.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yes indeed. I suppose common sense says that adhering to something (paint) that's only a thin, mechanically-bonded coating, is likely to fail.

[@premaji4520]

Use grease or machine oil( lightly but evenly) on drillholes, screws and around the drill area(about 1-3 cm) and then wipe excess excess off using a cloth after tightening the bolts. Problem solved no corrosion. (If done properly)

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Will this have an effect on loosening under vibration, even if using nord locks etc?

[@premaji4520]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals use a small loop of cheap thread seal tape used for screwing taps tightly. Google thread seal tape if you don't know and you will know what I mean and is available in any plumber store.

[@CAMSLAYER13]

@@premaji4520 ptfe tape? Or teflon if you prefer the brand

[@LesNewell]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you are concerned about vibration or corrosion a really good option is thread lock compound such as loctite. It both seals and locks the thread. Don't use thread lock on plastics such as ABS or high impact polystyrene - it attacks the plastic and makes it brittle.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

@@LesNewell Yes, I tend to either use nord locks, or either medium or high strength threadlock liquid. I suppose I was wondering if this greasing idea would stop the compounds (or nord locks) working.

[@edgotbait]

Two things resharpen the drill bits and at the top of the hinges you installed drill a small hole at the top and install clips that can be easily pulled out if need be but it stop that panel from ever jumping off or if you did roll over it wouldn’t move

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yeah I'm getting a fair bit of advice about sharpening bits. I tried a while back with limited success. With cheaper bits I should still persevere. Certainly so with more expensive ones. Pinning the hinges could certainly help, but the clearance at the top is so small it would be super-unlikely to unmount, even entirely upside down.

[@BenMilford]

Another incredible episode!

[@ABH313]

Love seeing all the progress 👍keep up the good work! Can't wait to see the documentaries you'll make with this thing!

[@jakbro5633]

Use some sandpaper to rough up the gel coat and then use sealant to put the polycarbonate panel on

[@xnademolicious]

My only advice is that after your decide on a method of affixation for the windows, leave the bottom less than perfectly sealed so that the inevitable moisture that will accumulate has somewhere to go.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I have a moisture control plan 👍

[@jackfntwist]

Can you undo the bolts to the existing porthole? If so, you can add like 6-8 brackets the outside to secure the polycarbonate window. You're hilarious. I love your voice and narration.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I'm hoping for a less intensive mounting system. But yes those bolts all around are available-ish.

[@juanaq]

i hope the interior of Alan stays as dry as your voicing over, and equally enjoyable. and speaking of dryness, will you use something between the glass and the policarbonate to absorb moisture and avoid condensation?

[@dcallan812]

Personally I would scuff Alans coat and use a good glue / sealent. But Im not sure if that would trap moisture? No one want a claggy hole to look at. Great video 2x👍

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I have a plan to ensure it's dry between panes.

[@joel383]

Drill bits can be easily sharpened with that grinder.

[@obell7]

Slap a thick bead of sika flex and stick the window direct to the paint

[@JonSpink]

Get a load of cheap 4mm drill bits. They will drill through steel easier than fatter drills if you are using a cordless drill. Then just open the hole up to the correct size, it will go through like a knife through butter

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yes, stepping up for larger holes is my normal process, but even some of these 4/5/6mm bits really are knackered.

[@gatekeeper84]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals corded drilling machines offer a range of RPMs and power that battery drills don't. See if you can find a couple of (second hand) corded drilling machines. A small one, very high speed. One geared medium/low speed high power with additional handle near the chuck. That handle is recommended because the torque can injury your wrist if a drill gets stuck. An angle drilling machine will be handy too.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I do have a corded drill, but usually only bring it out for multiple 10mm+ drilling sessions. I also had a pillar drill press. It broke.

[@MCallsen]

A little hint about Einhell. It used to be a good name and only slightly inferior to Makita or Hilti, but it is by now a low spec low quality made in (you know where) brand, that was sold off. Unrelated to that - I was recently presented an antifouling foil that is affixed to the bow and will last around 8 years. It feels a bit like satin and I thought of Allan right away. I could investigate more in case you are interested.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Mine's a few years old. Seems ok so far. Assuringly solid. Antifouling interesting - do you have a link?

[@MCallsen]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals I talked to the man yesterday and we will meet next week. I will then be able to give you links, material, photos etc. in a timely manner.

[@0li1986]

Hi Alex I’m a carpenter based in north Kent, 19 years experience. Let me no if you ever need any help free of charge. I can’t wait to see Alan finished and going off exploring the Artic.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

A kind offer - thank you.

[@gafrers]

Another Great episode

[@greylocke100]

Alex, check out the "Project Farm" KZbin page for his video on drill bit sharpeners. He also has many other tests you may find useful.

[@africanelectron751]

This show is awesome absolutely love it you are living a dream. If I lived on the right part of the earth I would volunteer my hands allas I can only be a KZbin expert and provide uncalledfor suggestions... Ps I'm glad you got carbon monoxide alarms.

[@felipealcabri]

Did you show how you installed the tank? I like that you may see through it

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Ep16

[@BLAZE13011]

You know you can sharpen drill bits, look it up its really useful.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yes I've started doing so now - easier than I thought.

[@elliot999]

Don't waste money buying more bits. Buy a drill Dr and sharpen them quickly and easily, and it's also another grinder, of sorts, sure to help with grinder content quotas!

[@ptonpc]

Are you able to regrind / resharpen your bits or is it just not worth the time and bother?

[@LesNewell]

Hand sharpening drill bits is a very worthwhile skill to learn. Some of my drill bits are 20+ years old. Admittedly some are quite a bit shorter than they were when new. In my opinion you are far better off buying a really good quality set and re sharpening them rather than buying cheap ones and throwing them out when worn. Good quality drills stay sharp a lot longer than cheap ones.

[@SkipperSmudge]

Hi Alex hope all progressing to plan I seem to get two new job with only one partially completed!!! I see you are double glazing and your discussion about adhesive for the polycarbonate - as you may remember I fitted polycarbonate on the outside of my cat windows for the winter months. I did not fully adhere them to the cat for a couple of reasons - they were only for winter and I feared condensation between the layers if I stuck them on permanently and all round - I use 6 suction cups. I do not think that adhesion a good solution for your endeavours however I suggest a square u shaped Ali channel adhered to Alan along 3 sides (edges and bottom) would allow you to remove them for cleaning replacement or indeed when not really required. I hope you get the idea drop them in guillotine style??? I did not do it on the cat because of compound curves. Please pop over to Maldon some time if you ever have a spare few hours for a catch up. Regards Dick

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Thanks Dick! Will whatsapp you.

[@SkipperSmudge]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals 👍

[@dansummers2965]

This episode could have been riveting, you know, but instead it was ... bolting. Hmm. In fact, you screwed it up! But in a good way. I'm sort of sorry for all that. Thanks for documenting all this - it's been really interesting to watch Alan's development, and long may that continue.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

My pleasure Dan. And, it appears, yours!

[@scotte2815]

you don't like to leave WHAT empty? oh, BOLT-holes had to review that just to make sure I didn't hear that wrong

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

At least my video got two views out of it.

[@huevacho97]

you can sharpen your drills

[@premaji4520]

Try to get to know someone who has a 3D printer for custom parts or holders for those small things for perfection.

[@robertdevlin2950]

Hey Alex are your books on Audible? Big fan of Alen!!!

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I regret not!

[@kiiiisu]

how do u like ur einhell drill? my mom bought one without asking me first :D, feels and looks pretty good but havent used it yet

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Mine has been going strong a few years.

[@ThePaulv12]

You can use an angle grinder to sharpen drill bits. What you do is mount the grinder in the vice with just a cutting disc - not a grinding disc. Be careful not to grind your knuckle doing this as it is dangerous and should never be done by anyone. Best way to make sure you don't grind your knuckle off and leave your finger dangling by a thread is to make sure the grinding disc is new and the full diameter. Doing it with a half worn disc is asking for it more so than doing with a new disc. It is dangerous. Mechanics do this because other mechanics use fine wheels on bench grinders to do coarse work ruining the fine wheels so you can't sharpen drills anymore. New fine wheels last ~ 6hrs at best in a busy workshop - I digress. Now the skill bit. If you don't know how to sharpen drill bits I can tell you it ain't rocket science. * The trailing face of the drill needs to be lower than the cutting edge otherwise no matter how precise the cutting edge is, it will never ever cut. * With that in mind with the angle grinder running use the flat surface of the angle grinder cutting disc not the usual edge of the disc. * What you do is rotate the drill bit from the trailing edge to the leading edge, pressing ever so slightly more firmly on the trailing edge then more lightly as you rotate the bit towards the cutting face. Repeat on the other side, then repeat on the other side - so on and so forth. * The drill needs to be held at the same angle the manufacturer put on the cutting face. * Be careful not to get so transfixed that you grind too much off one side and make the point of the drill off centre. * As mentioned maintain the same 'roof pitch' angle that the drill came with when new (if you know what I mean). * You can grind from the front to the back so to speak but that takes more skill. The chances of failure are increased. With not much practice you'll be so good at it you may have to dull the cutting face a bit because they get too sharp and bite the job. This is not ideal especially without eye protection as the bit can break, chips go flying off the drill and off the job etc. I often touch the drill bit on the rotary wire brush on the bench grinder if that happens.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Will give it a go with some of my more expensive bits when they blunt.

[@gregorykoyanagi2706]

Clamp the end you don't want

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Mmm. The unneeded end was a little small.

[@LesNewell]

Do you have a bench grinder? Re sharpening drill bits is not hard. It takes a little practice to get the knack but you should pick it up fairly quickly. A lot of tutorials stress that you have to get the angles just right - that's not really the case. As long as both flutes are the same it will cut fine. Start with a larger drill, say 10 - 12mm. 3mm and under are hard to sharpen and usually it's easier to just replace them. Find the most knackered one in your set to practice on. If you grind a split point on the drill is cuts a lot easier. This old tony has a good tutorial kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGnSgIWIa8-snpo

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yeah I'm getting a fair bit of advice about sharpening bits. I tried a while back with limited success. With cheaper bits I should still persevere. Certainly so with more expensive ones. Thanks for the info.

[@JonMadsen70]

:)

[@snaaail]

bit rude of you to try to speak over the wind