Lifter Rebuild GM Hydraulic Roller

Tear-Down and Re-Assembly of a Roller Lifter out of a Vortec 4.3 in a 98 Oldsmobile Bravada. Similar to Lifters in many other General Motors Engines.

[@thecamocanoe]

So glad I found this video. I was just looking for a video to get the clip back in, then I learned to take the whole darn thing apart. Lots of old oil in there after soaked in gas. Thanks

[@kevc9137]

Best video on hydraulic rollers

[@leventdemirler4208]

Awesome video man,today i finished my lifters with this vid. Thank you sooo much.Greetings

[@rgkos5404]

Perfect video. No bs, just great info.

[@traderdan85]

Great video it’s nice to see someone that knows what they are doing

[@zdh83cheese56]

Excellent video. Answered alot of my questions. THANKS!

[@riteshmadane4381]

Best video of lifter reinstall details so thanks again

[@paulmaxwell8851]

Excellent video! Two things: you must have absolute cleanliness when doing this work. Not all mechanics are very good at this. And never pre-fill the lifter with oil, as some people I know have done. Just oil it for reassembly. If you were to fill the lifter with oil the valve will be unable to close fully. In just a moment all your valves will be bent by the pistons, and you may even shatter some valve guides. I've seen it happen; not pretty.

[@trillrifaxegrindor4411]

lifters are almost always pre soaked in oil,you obviously witnessed someone fucking up royally multiple times......

[@dougaustintx]

Pre-soaked in oil is different from putting the lifters in an oil-filled container and manually pumping the piston until they are "pre-loaded". Either way actually works, but the pre-loaded (oil FILLED) lifters have to be carefully and very slowly tightened at the rockers to allow them to stabilize. The preloaded method isn't the best.

[@sprucet9639]

Love the video, helps me a lot,thanks

[@jimbobjimbob8275]

Great video, thanks. Think I'm going to have to do this on my 2000 Lm7 motor

[@Thundarr995]

Last time I had the intake manifold off my 4.3L. I just put the red little straw thingamajig on a can of carb cleaner. Inserted it into the oiling hole on the side of the lifter and blasted out the crud until it came out clear. After I got it all put back together,it did run a little better.

[@josephastier7421]

If you have already gone through the trouble of pulling the manifold, you can tear down + clean your lifters on the bench.

[@flinch622]

Seems to me one of the greatest automotive myths [floating around for decades] is hydraulic lifters don't need maintenance. They do -it's just infrequent: somehere between 50k and 70k seems reasonable. At the most basic level, its a cup inside a cup. Combine that with not all that much oil volume going to the top of the motor via pushrod, and you could call them something else: a trap. Anything getting inside is not likely to leave Only a teardown works to remove any crud. The check ball at bottom usually seals well - one short press and relieving backside pressure can make dealing with inner assembly easier in most cases. I keep a plastic case designed for lifters doing this - keeps them in order to match the bore they came out of, and contains any oil. I put about 1cc of 30 wt on/in lifter at reassembly to guarantee surfaces are coated and ready for priming. Keep it all lint free, and should be good to go.

[@brandonknight7240]

Looks alot like my Trickflows

[@franciscotrujillo4961]

Cuál era el problema q te daba el motor y si con esto se a solucionado?

[@tyrell2159]

I did what u said and 4sum reason my plunger stayed collapsed in

[@nickb8735]

only way i was able to get the plungers out was to heat them up with a torch and the plunger eventually came flying out i put them in a stainless tray with half a lid on it so oil and parts don’t fly every where ah ok he does it with torch too cool

[@flyguyhobbies5618]

Great video. Do the oil feed holes in the lifter and plunger need to be aligned together?

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Big Adam No, the internal parts rotate freely, no alignment or clocking to worry about.

[@pedroislas2953]

Excellent video. Does anyone know if they sell the locking rings? When disassembling one of the lifters I broke the locking ring and I can't find a replacement. Thank you

[@trillrifaxegrindor4411]

buy new lifter,that's why it pays to be extremely careful and not get rammy

[@YamarajaDasaAlcyone]

Awesome thank you! I was trying to figure out why some were easy to put the clip back on and others not so easy. It's that check ball which I never depressed to let some air escape! If I can ask, when I cleaned mine out, I let them soak in oil for several months before putting them back into a rebuilt engine. I noticed that some were really squishy but others were rather tight. Was this because I had not put them back together properly and the air had not fully escaped? Would this be fixed when the engine was running and they were getting a proper oil feed? Would it be better to take them apart again and make sure I get all of the air out before re-soaking in oil? Cheers if you can offer any advice :-)

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

You can just install them and go, they don't pre-soak and fill lifters at the factory. The oil pressure will fill them in a few seconds after the engine starts. These ticked for about 10 seconds on startup and have been fine ever since. Crane cams and Comp cams both say on their websites that pumping lifters is not necessary and is actually not desirable because it could cause the valve to hang open instead of positioning the plunger in its proper position. It's much more important to prime the entire engines oil system before initial startup.

[@YamarajaDasaAlcyone]

Priming the entire oil system makes much more sense. I was trying to figure out how to do that at home with this engine. I've seen how engines with distributors can be primed but I've got a coil pack. Almost finished putting the engine back together. I packed the oil pump rotors with vaseline to help prime the pump for when the time comes to crank it over. Cars a 2003 Holden Commodore VY V6 3.8L with an Ecotec engine. Something similar to a Buick. Any thoughts as to how I could prime the engine with oil on this car at home before actually starting it? I was just going to remove the spark plugs, the PCM fuse and the ignition fuse and then crank the engine until the oil pressure light went out. I'll hop back onto Google tonight and see what else I can find. As for the lifters, I pulled them apart again today and made sure to depress the check ball to let the air escape. All lifters are now pushing in to exactly the same length! Pretty sure that's where I went wrong first time. I'm guessing that even after soaking in oil, that extra air was struggling to escape? The oil in some of them had also become a bit milky. No idea what could have caused that? Before I came back inside and read your message, I had plonked them all in a container of oil...will only leave overnight them put them back in tomorrow to get the valve train put back together.

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

Matthew Barry Cranking the engine with plugs out should be good enough, the only other method on that style engine would be using a special pressurized primer that connects the oil pressure port and feeds the entire system. Its an expensive tool for one time use, as long you have used assembly lube on everything you should be fine with just cranking.

[@YamarajaDasaAlcyone]

Cool. Everything got a good coating of assembly lube. I saw one of the home made pressure pumps that someone made which connects to where the oil pressure sensor goes. Theory makes sense. Might just stick to what I was going to do and keep adding the assembly lube as I go :-)

[@jbl8916]

Did u rebuild or only take apart and re lube !!!

[@pedrosaucedo5332]

Great explanation... one question when you put back the lifter in the block what is the orientation of the oil feed hole?. thank you!

[@autorepairtricksnmore391]

This was a 1998 4.3 V6 from a chevy blazer, the feed hole orientation doesn't matter in this engine, the recessed area that the feed hole is in, is a continuous passageway that surrounds the entire lifter and also lubes the bore that the lifter rides in. On any engine I've ever had apart, if there was a reason to orient something a certain way, it would be marked or have some feature that makes it only able to install one way. These things are assembled in factories by any average Joe off the street that has no idea how an engine even works, they're failsafed from assembly errors pretty well at the factory, so anyone with the guts or knowledge to take one apart, can probably get it back together without too much issue. Lol. Good job catching that fine detail and thinking about it, pretty sharp! Good luck with your repair!

[@pedrosaucedo5332]

Thank you for the soon answer, I am working with a Venture 3.4 liters 1999 that I had to clean them up and your video was very helpful with it. but when I installed them back a got that question in mind because once I put them back I saw that they could only get two positions that were not in front of the oil passage... I will double check it may be I did not see things correctly.. I appreciate your support and feed back. Definitely I will follow up your channel. Thank you again!

[@Inviting1word]

All mine are guff as nails, motor blew a head gasket