Linear advance guide - Free and easy print quality improvement

[@davidlockwood4545]

Absolutely spot on. I have been hoping you would address this subject. Linear advance sounds like such a obtuse subject you made it manageable, as usual. Thanks again for the most useful site on KZbin or, indeed, the web.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

*an obtuse

[@TomTom-zx7lo]

He needs to add in the obvious but overlooked, _ACTUAL_ nozzle size. If you *think* you have a .4 nozzle but it's really .35, then the lines might be under exaggerated. If it's actually .45, the lines might be over exaggerated. This was a killer for me the first time (under exaggerated for me the first time... so all the lines looked the same).

[@tonyb6821]

I know your vid is 4yrs old but THANKYOU from a newb learning this as a "johnny come lately" to 3d printing! YOU SIR ARE THE GOAT!!!

[@MirrorOnTheWall23]

The go to channel for 3D printer advice and training. Well done as always and thank you for putting in the time and effort on great quality tutorials.

[@DrDeepspace]

Still coming back for knowledge after all these years. Thanks for keeping it going!

[@novazipstream2]

Thanks for the video! I wanted to add in some with reguarding the TMC2208s. It is possible to use Linear Advance on TMC2208s so as long as you disable StealthChop and enable Square Wave Stepping. Edit:: I can confirm that Linear Advance works on TMC2208 drivers on the extruder! You have to ensure that Stealthchop is disabled on the extruder and have square wave stepping enabled

[@Defectivedicktater]

I'm about to google it, but jic you have verified methodology; how?

[@rinnengan71]

❤ thanks!!!

[@madmax1419]

You asked for feedback at the end of your video. Hmm, just only feedback isn‘t enough. Your videos are teaching me to understand my printer and to make it better printing parts. You are not afraid to explain complex technical issues and how to fix problems. Realizing that a defect is a problem and not simply taking it for granted is the true quality of your videos. I‘m looking forward to your next video and to the next thing I can learn to make my printer and work more enjoyable. Thank you for your time and love to create this videos.

[@knobbymcfeck]

I just gotta say that you're my favourite 3D printer tinkering channel. Straight to the point, well explained, and you bring up topics I didn't even know existed. Thank you so much for your time and effort!

[@linksfueszigerdog]

Quick sidenote for the TMC2208 people - these stepper drivers are supported in the newer Marlin Versions. Running my Ender 5 pro with a creality V4.2.2 silent board with TMC 2208 drivers with the "bugfix Marlin 2.1.X" and it works like a charm!

[@keithbroh5730]

Do you have a bl or cr touch? I’m trying to figure out how to set the gcode generator 😅

[@gizmo7396]

What about the older V2.2.1 boards?

[@ianide2480]

I did this on my printer. I didn't read any warnings about using a 2208 in stand alone with lin adv enabled. I'm glad I didn't hear about these warnings because I have 2208's in stand alone with lin adv and it works great. I haven't not tinkered a whole bunch but I followed the same instruction link that you showed from marlin, I got my K value zeroed in and have nothing but good things to say about lin adv. I say don't be afraid to try it regardless of your setup, the worse thing that will happen is re-commenting a single line to turn it off again.

[@TeachingTech]

I agree. I've not read of any permanent damage to machines so worth a shot. The firmware is always being improved.so the 2208 issue might be a thing of the past.

[@beedee95]

I did try the same thing - 2208 on extruder in legacy(standalone) mode. No changes in firmware (but mine defaulted to S curve off). The calibration went fine, I got a nice line with a K0.2, added it to the firmware. Everything was working, so I started a small print and the extruder just stopped after a few (BEAUTIFUL and SQUARE cornered) layers. So be aware, it might just stop suddenly. I think I'm going to swap the E driver for an LV8729, set it for 1/64 microstepping and recalibrate my K value...

[@MakerFarmNL]

Your videos are by far the most educational on the subject of 3D printing / 3D printers on the web! You take a lot of effort to really dig deep into every subject, then create a lot of content for each video, making every video a truly well illustrated lesson. You are a Teacher with capital T. My utmost respect for that and many compliments!

[@3dphillo396]

Have been using Linear Advance for some time now after watching this video. Just changed to the 2.85mm filament and had to watch this video again. Great tut. Keep them coming.

[@achristofides]

Thanks, another really great guide, after recently fitting a microswiss direct drive and hot end to my ender 5 pro, and first doing an e-step calibration, was tearing my hair out with prints not coming out right - things like corners missing, after also doing this nailed it! The new K value for me was around 0.12 with stock at 0.63, on latest Marlin 2.0.9.1 (at time of writing). Had to disable s curve acceleration which I had turned on in the firmware recently for linear advance to function.

[@252AC]

Hello, I know some time has passed but why did you turn S curve acceleration off?

[@keithbroh5730]

If I may ask were you able to run the newest marlin on the stock Ender 5 pro board? I just picked one up one marketplace for a good deal and it prints great but these small issues make me want to go direct drive, or setup settings like this. If I just got a different stepper motor for the extruded could I use it? One that isn’t silent maybe? I have an old tronxy x1 that’s lightly used and I can salvage any parts from that’s why I ask.

[@PaulojnPereira]

I have spent so much time to remove these annoying bumps and now the answer is here, thank you for your amazing work, and time you placed into this to share it with us.

[@AnArmAndAGreg]

Although, as a noob going through your calibration site for the first time ever, the section on linear advance is the hardest to figure out. While all of the other sections up to this point were spoon-fed, the linear advance section (which seems to me to be extremely imporant for good prints) isn't nearly as robust. I know the video is supposed to walk you through the process, but unlike other calibration steps, this one is missing the baby steps I've been spoiled with so far. May have to skip this calibration step until I have more understanding. Thanks again for all of your hard work on this.

[@lugiber]

Thanks so much for making this video! It helped me immensely, and it made a huge difference even though I use a TMC 2208 driver. If anyone wants to know i use an EZBoard lite , a Bondtech Extruder (I'm from Sweden after all) and a E3D v6 hotend. I'm just about to start my first serious print with the new settings, wish me good luck!

[@alycapo3391]

How did it go Peter?

[@JohnOCFII]

Another well crafted tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to create such well documented content. I’ve found linear advance to be a great aid for better quality at higher speeds. As you say - a low cost investment in time creates better prints!

[@eshneto]

Most underrated KZbin channel with 3D printing content.

[@TheEdgeofTech]

Nice work! I'm definitely gonna try this!! Thanks for being on the show yesterday, It was great to meet you and it was a blast!

[@HungrysitesRu]

It depends A LOT on the filament so you have to change your K-value for different filament types.

[@jtnix]

as stated in the comments!

[@AndreasBrekken]

I started recompiling marlin while watching this, and now im printing out a before testcube. Looking forward te see the results! Thank you for this video!

[@SeanLeach]

Another insanely useful Teaching Tech video. Thank you so much for what you do for this community!

[@daphoosa]

Good overview and tutorial. Very minor nit pick is that linear advance doesn't technically "look ahead" (per 2:48), it biases the filament position based on the current speed of the head. Keep up the good work.

[@AnArmAndAGreg]

Absolutely loving your calibration website. Finally getting prints that look good. Thank you.

[@thebrodad]

Been watching your tutorials since I picked up my CE3P in Oct 2020. Your presentation is extremely objective, thorough, and helpful! I would love to see more personality but in any case, keep up the great work! I made "linear advance" a little project the other day and tuned in a bunch of nozzles, filaments, and retraction settings thanks to you! I now have them waiting activation in my Start G-Code - which is awesome! Godsend of a feature! Prints are looking on-point! Thanks again brother!

[@SpaceWeevil]

Thumbs up just for the Mighty Car Mods shirt :)

[@fredfaour411]

Truly! I love those guys!

[@gammaxana]

man talk about a stealth chop

[@chuuba_lover]

@@gammaxana yooooo

[@RobsPlaceFL]

I'll be running these setup instructions shortly. CR-10s with a few upgrades.

[@leoplaza-ponte6536]

Another excellent video. I followed your tutorial and eliminated all of the corner bulging on my prints! Your content has helped me learn a ton about this hobby.

[@noelwade]

Thanks so much for all of your content! Binge-watching your channel over the last week has been TERRIBLE for my productivity, but its been FANTASTIC for being prepared when I buy my first 3D printer in the coming weeks. :-D The only downside has been trying to keep the "latest and greatest" boards, drivers, and mods straight in my head; given that you've got ~3 years of content covering all of the iterative improvements we've seen in this space over that time. :-P

[@schwuzi]

Ender 3, Bltouch and SKR Mini E3 would be the best combination for reliable and futureproof printing. 32bit is the future, as it allows you to keep adding new features like this without running out of storage space and processing power.

[@VictorGallagherCarvings]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I had into linear advance a few months ago and the more I read the more intimidated I became. Also you answered some questions I had concerning conflicts with slicers.

[@Muldrf]

This is a very helpful video, I had looked at the calibration tools page but this was much more helpful in video format than just reading the site. Thanks. It has made quite a noticeable improvement in my printing, at least the test cube.

[@RusakovLA]

Latest Marlin (bugfix) now supports LA for 2208 on all modes!

[@astcomjakecw]

You can do it just fine on Creality TMC boards. Just disable stealth chop mode (M569 S1 X Y Z E), or may just be able to send M569 S1 for all axis in the most recent Marlin. This puts the steppers into spread cycle which lets linear advance work. You may still need to uncomment the 'allow linear advance' code in Marlin 'configuration.h'. To go back to stealth chop mode, change the S1 to S0 in the above command. You can do this with start and stop code in your slicer, or use a terminal like Pronterface to send commands.

[@the_bishop]

Wouldn't S0 disable Stealth Chop, and S1 enable it?

[@dunc5623]

Depends on the drivers. I have 2225 on X,Y and Z and 2209 on E0. The linear advance test calibration works perfectly without doing any of the commands you mention.

[@dannyblondu23]

Thank you. I just set up an Ender 3 v2 2 months ago and now I can print in good quality.

[@dannyblondu23]

@@mkalbunyo yes V4.2.2

[@dannyblondu23]

@@mkalbunyo if you can't save the settings. You have to go on marlin firmware and enable (Linear Advance) If you can't send M900 K0.11 or what ever value you have.

[@dannyblondu23]

@@mkalbunyo ok😞 sorry for you

[@dannyblondu23]

@@mkalbunyo try to put a new firmware from TH3D and setup on (Configuration.h line 220 Linear_Advance)

[@MrPhatties]

Pretty cool that the x1c does this dynamically on every print with the lidar

[@chasgiv4]

BRUH!!!! You found the coolest thing ever! I was having so many problems with small parts support. This fixed it right up.

[@fmkimports4044]

Great job, I implemented this feature and 3D prints were great !!! Congratulations on your commitment !!! Extremely useful and in an easy to understand language !!!

[@axelhopfinger533]

Quality educational content as always, mate!

[@samionurzaim]

This one had great impact on my prints It was as significant as deploying a 3DTouch.

[@k9elli]

Solid info- keep these setting tutorials coming and updated!

[@ericmurtha3198]

These videos are really useful. I have referred to your channel than any other TY channel for information which says a lot. Thanks. I was curious to see how this might help improve my prints and I really think it's super specific to your hardware and filament. My K setting was very low and I actually didn't really see any print improvements but I could see how certain filaments, hot-ends, and extruder setups would need tuning. My initial print was pretty great with a dual drive extruder on an otherwise stock Ender 3 with what you would think was pretty default PETG print. Of course, this is after following many of your videos on calibration! I will say that the dual drive extruder is easily the best upgrade you can make to the Ender 3. After running an extruder calibration you'll see a huge difference.

[@Unmannedair]

Dude, this is exactly what I needed. I'm building a core XY now and I'm going for Max speed without compromising quality. Some great quality vids. Thanks.

[@SniperX611]

What are you basing your coreXY on? A kit or scratch build?

[@johnliszka6751]

This is seriously such a great tutorial! Going to go through this with my ender 3 with SKR mini e3 V1.2!

[@johnliszka6751]

hmmmm a huge minus is the extruder being so much louder. I'm not sure if i'm going to stick with it.

[@Madeinoz1967]

Just trying this feature now on my first print, thanks for explaining it, I run a bowden setup with a E3d titan extruder and my first observation is the extruder is a a lot noisier with the micro retracts occurring on corners and areas of small infill etc.

[@Madeinoz1967]

...and then I saw the comments below, so will try enabling classic jerk after this print finishes and re-try

[@Madeinoz1967]

enabling classic Jerk definitely fixed the extruder noise issue!

[@milos975]

Until now I wasn't quite sure how to do it. With your explanation it seems very easy to do it. Thanks.

[@xyzconceptsYT]

The Chopped T-Shirt earns my respect, 2nd to the gold standard technical info! May your prints not go "In The Bin" 🤣🤣🤣

[@metalmikecode]

I'll definitely try it, but maybe not right away. I'm currently pretty happy with my prints so I'll just enjoy doing stuff :D But thank you very very much, you explained everything in proper detail and all the information is in the video, without any additional questions after watching. Thank you!

[@maxmairena6021]

I am going to try this. I am new to 3D printer and I got me a DIY that is a little stubborn. With your guidance of your videos I know I can make it work right. Wish me luck.🤣 Thank You for your teachings 👍🏼

[@SantaDragon]

4:40 Would have been great if you describe how to get there ...

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Nice easy to follow since my first calibration print looked pretty much as yours did go to print the 2nd round/pattern

[@calebandrewcox826]

This is a GREAT video, I had no idea Marlin added this feature to the firmware. I'm super excited now to go update my Marlin code and start experimenting with this for the main materials I print in. I hope it'll help with my TPU prints!

[@VesExcYohannes]

5:26 generator Indonesia Vers: Gunakan kode pada "Print Settings" setelah kode printing. jika menemukan blobs pada siku/tikungan, maka berikan kode "M900 K(-~ hingga ~) ; set K-factor". sebagai contoh: "M900 K100 ; set K-factor" "M900 K0 ; set K-factor" "M900 K-100 ; set K-factor". maka pilih yang negatif. jika menemukan kekosongan (terputus) pada layer dapat dipastikan bahwa filament lembab (cobalah untuk mengeringkannya), dan juga pada kode gunakan yang positif. sebaiknya kode negatif atau positif harus dengan percobaan print Cube. Catatan: - kode negatif digunakan jika print dengan kecepatan tinggi ====================== English Vers: Use the code in "Print Settings" after the printing code. if you find a blobs on the elbow/curve, then give code "M900 K(-~ to ~) ; set K-factor". as an example: "M900 K100 ; set K-factor" "M900 K0 ; set K-factor" "M900 K-100 ; set K-factor". then choose the negative. if you find voids (cuts) in the layer you can be sure that the filament is damp (try to dry it), and also use a positive code. preferably a negative or positive code must be with the Cube print experiment. Notes: - Negative code is used when printing at high speed

[@avejst]

Great video as always. I have not used Linear advance, for now. Thanks for sharing 👍😀

[@rgbailey]

I found an interesting detail, order matters when tuning linear advance, acceleration, and junction deviation. I tuned the linear advance, then the acceleration and junction deviation, now i need to retune the linear advance. Not a major issue, just a detail to keep in mind. All three of these settings interact with each other.

I was wondering about that. Thanks for the advice

[@Dvulikiy]

Dude! You are the only one who made sense about corner bulging. Just installed Bigtreetech Mother board, and TFT screen, on my original mother board corners with the same G-code were Ok... After swap got huge bulging in the corners. Found out this option is ON, but the K=0 in settings. Although, after finding my K factor... Print time increased, instead of the 30 min 38 min. Still have some bulging in corners, but less and more consistent... Don't know... maybe will cancel that. I think it works much better with Direct Drive... not with bowden...

[@PlanetJeroen]

Thanks for this man, was getting super annoyed with no sharp corners, and trying to fix it with flow didnt work too well. Gonna give this a try for sure!

[@Sembazuru]

Good reference. I'm on Prusa printers and don't do any custom firmware. There is linear advance available, but I suspect it is LA 1.0. (K values for PLA are usually around 30, not 0.11...) I currently calibrate every filament by make and model (I haven't needed to go down to by color yet) and one of the things I do is determine a new K value for each. I'll bookmark this video once Prusa follows through with their promise of adding LA 1.5 to their firmware. Thanx for the resource! :-D

[@TeachingTech]

I have an old video on LA1.0 on a MK3 if you're interested in the meantime.

[@Sembazuru]

@@TeachingTech I think I'm good with my process (using the method from Matt's Hub). Hopefully it will be changing soon (in a few months) when the next version of the Prusa firmware is released. No sense learning a new technique that will be obsoleted that quickly. ;-)

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

Easy enough to add the K value to any slicers starting script and makes for quick filament changes and k values as well. I didn't get much better results on my newer CR-10 (12 months old or less) and bowden setup mind you. I'd need to see if the board is any different from the old one they used but just assumed it was the same with the same drivers. It is very easy to understand and setup, just take your time and read everything :-) Its a s easy as Michael shows it to be.

[@WatchedZ01]

I actually spec’d out the rebuild of my ender 3 with a skr 1.3 and 2208’s on all axis minus E. Just for this reason. Linear advance and linear rail to really crank up the precision in the prints.

[@Mr_LiamT]

Have been waiting for this since you mentioned it in your last video. THANK YOU!

[@pyro1596]

I've been working on my Tronxy X5S that is heavily modded and I'm really excited to get this calibrated with my .8mm nozzle

[@aaronmorris9352]

Thanks for this, just got my Ender 3 all tuned up tonight. I have an SK-GO2 on the way also, so can't wait to see how that goes!

[@Graham_Wideman]

Well done Michael! Very communicative graphic at 2:10.

[@lrnn79]

Completed this on my Full Bear Prusa MK3S with a bondtech extruder. Thank you!!!

[@Billimus68]

Another great and very informative video Michael. Thank you for that. I'll be working through this at my very next opportunity.

[@K4daniel]

For the TMC2208 drivers, just enable SpreadCycle on the Extruder and Linear Advance works with an actual Marlin 2.0.TMC2209 should be save anway, but I don't recommend stealthchop for the extruder anyway.

[@Skovjuul]

Will definitely try this feature when I give my Ender3 an overhaul.

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Same. Baby needs a rebuild.

[@donaldviszneki8251]

How'd it go?

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

@@donaldviszneki8251 At least for mine, I noticed right away I can screw all four of my bed level knobs halfway, and I achieve tram level. Before I had to screw one all the way while the others not. No gentle tipping in the frame on a flat surface.

[@donaldviszneki8251]

@@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork Maybe I"m just being a noob, but it sounds like you're talking about bed leveling, and not about linear advance.

[@sneaky_tiki]

Thank you so much for digging up that gcode generator for the test strips!! I use this all the time (RepRap: Pressure Advance), but have only ever tuned it by eye. Now I can re-run calibration using this far more useful code generator :D Btw, the difference is night and day for flexible materials, unlike rigid.

[@lordgort1986]

how can you generate a gcode for reprap? i have a duet and want to tune pressure advance but i am failing to make a good test gcode

[@sachinpatil-sp3wh]

I followed your video and tuned my printer Lin Advance. Thanks. please keep it up. please create one video on separate stealthchop settings for individual axis of printer.

[@TheNamelessOne12357]

For TMC drivers you also need to set MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE to 2 in Marlin, otherwise TMC driver on the extruder may suddenly stop in the middle of the print even in SpreadCycle. Linear Advance is OK for "direct drive" extruder, but when enabled on the geared extruder like Titan or BMG it produces too much noise and vibration, especially if high acceleration is set. I tried it on my Kossel and Ultimaker printers with 3000 and 2000 mm/s2 acceleration respectively, and it was very loud. Maybe I will enable LA if I put my printers in another room or something.

[@AnthonyGriz]

Solid real-world improvements - great to see, and another awesome tutorial ! Thank you.

[@dustinbailey1980]

This has been kicking my butt lately. I'm running 2208 stepper motor drivers unfortunately. I initially had k values loaded for version 1 but after researching, I'm running marlin 2.0.6 so I'm on version 1.5 Trying k value at 2 now. I did comment out stealthchop Set min stepper pulse to 1 I left chopper timing at 12v since I'm running a 12v machine. And my EO microsteps were already at 128 I defined square wave stepping And set tmc adv stepper E0. En spread cycle (true) Wish me luck!

[@theotherbart]

Thanks for all the effort you put into these things!

[@TheZolon]

Still working on my bed leveling mastery. Once I have that under control, I will be trying this out across all the SKR boards, and TMC drivers I have.

[@aaronward6092]

Thanks again, please don’t stop making printing videos

[@V1N_574]

I upgraded from 2208 to 2209 solely to do this. Will have it calibrated in the next couple of days

[@teeallen1217]

All but 1 of my printers (Ft6) have all 2208 drivers. I guess I’ll pass for now. Not buying new drivers right now. Great video as always Mike.

[@andronicuscomnenus2642]

It works fine with TMC2208. Disable StealthChop for E and uncomment #define SQUARE_WAVE_STEPPING in configuration_adv.h.

[@oleurgast730]

You only have to change x and y axis drivers. You can keep the 2208's for z and e. So if the one printer you have without TMC2208, upgrade it to TMC's usable with linear advance - and use two of the 2208 from x and y for z and e on the printer which did not had TMC's before. So you upgrade two printers for the price of one (and if you wanted to upgrade the one without TMC's to TMC's anyway its no extra costs) Anyway, changing only x and y is only half the cost anyway. And mostly the next printer will come in the near furure anyway. So in your situation I would simply buy a SKR 1.3 + TMC's usable for linear advance for future use and use the drivers on two of the exising printers till whan. Sorry, I was wrong. Problem ist not on y and x, but on e only. So you only have to change one driver (if in stand-alone mode) So you can upgrade 4 for the price of one. And as an extruder not need a tmc anyway (much to slow to take advantage) you might also simply use an old A4988 there...

[@olafschermann1592]

This is awesome, especially for bowden tube users. Thank you.

[@UmbraAtrox_]

tmc2208: otp e driver to spreadcycle. add #define TMC_ADV() { stepperE0.en_spreadCycle(true); } #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 2 should work. also there probably is a way to set min pulse to E only, but probably is required for xy

[@BeHeaven616]

Hello! I followed this guide, and the content is high quality as usual, thanks for that! Sadly i cannot say that i got any real results out of it, the ugly corners got a little bit better but its still present (iam using an ender 3 with direct drive) I tried k value from 0.02 to 0.44

[@ScottLahteine]

I think we should be able to get Linear Advance working with Trinamic steppers by making sure the E stepper is in normal high-torque DIR/STEP mode. But don’t quote me on that for all cases! There might be some other considerations with these drivers. At any rate, SQUARE_WAVE_STEPPING is known to improve reliability and increase torque and is a must for the TMC drivers. Anyway, thanks for the really good coverage of this feature. We try to keep the documentation up to date, but there’s no substitute for a good demonstration.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to comment. Love your work and would like to support Marlin development more actively in the future.

[@tonyrichmond9428]

I spent WAY too much time trying to get a reasonable result on my Bowden Ender 3. Several months later I set up the direct drive mod, and BOOM linear advance is suddenly useful.

[@DJProPlusMax]

Your videos are easy to understand and genuinely great!

[@roxx0rz]

Just set up Linear Advance on my SKR Mini V2 on an Ender V1. Had the V1.1.5 board before but ran into problems with filament switching (M600) causing my motherboard to crash and not wanting to start up because of Marlin's size. Decided to get this 32 bit board and had a go at calibrating the whole thing. Things are coming out perfect and exactly how I expected my printer to print when I first got it. Too bad it took so much time and effort (I've also upgraded it to Direct Drive and some various other upgrades like a Noctua fan) to get my Ender V1 to almost perfect.

[@matts2581]

Certainly looking at taking it on - thank you very much for sharing this. :)

[@asahwu]

I used your tutorial on my D-Bot CoreXY build and it was a huge improvement. Probably the biggest improvement for the amount of effort so far on my printer. The one issue I noticed was that the infill was a lot looser and not as strong but that might just require some more tuning. Thanks!

[@iboysven]

What would be the Problem with the 2208 with stealthchop enabled on thr extruder? I did not understand it from the video alone

[@biloki3079]

@D. A. That was my question too

[@EricJorgensen]

@D. A. The way that linear advance works - the way that it modulates the speed of the extruder motor - does not mesh well with the way that StealthChop and StealthChop2 work to interpolate microsteps. There are firmware tweaks that can make it work, but i think it's easier and more rewarding to just not use a trinamic driver for the extruder.

[@Anon.G]

@@EricJorgensen what about when it's in spreadcyle?

[@EricJorgensen]

@@Anon.G i think that might be ok? Google it

[@thomaswiley666]

Yup. If you've bought the Creality V1.1.5 silent board, that is all you got - a silent board. Because the TMC2208s are hardwired into the board as a drop in legacy, you get StealthChop mode only. You cannot access the SpreadCycle mode nor flip between the two during printing. Don't get me wrong, silent is so much better than the A4988s and should, in my opinion, replace the previous board as stock. Creality should then provide, as an upcharge/upgrade, to a board where the TMC2208s (or TMC2209s) are configured for UART control to use StealthChop and SpreadCycle. NOTE: Along with not being able to use Linear Advance, you cannot use Klipper either.

[@damienmartinguillerez]

Just a adjustment: TMC stepper driver works fine with Marlin 2.0 and SQUARE WAVE STEPPING.

[@dipt_tpid]

For 2208?

[@damienmartinguillerez]

@@dipt_tpid I don't have 2208 to confirm but that's my understanding. Also generally it is not useful to run the extruder is stealthchop mode, it is pretty low noise in spreadcycle already.

[@stealthninja1o112]

@@damienmartinguillerez thanks, will test this then. Only I do have to use stealthchop :( Hope it works

[@ScottLahteine]

Good to know! I’m never quite sure from day to day what option combinations are happy together. But yes, SQUARE_WAVE_STEPPING is an absolute must for these drivers.

[@petervandenthillart8354]

Can confirm, just tested it with 2208's in UART mode. The extruder does become noisy compared to full-on stealthchop, but the results are the same as in the video.

[@moschidreamer]

4:36 "really could not be easier..." This is the part I do not know how to do. I have Ender 5S1. put 2 Test cubes with cura Liear advance 20 and 0. but both look the same. How can I activate the linear advance in the printer? What program I need? And how can I read the .bin file from Creality, the firmware I downloaded?

[@jawaring4367]

""For anyone with Creality silent boards, this is a no-go" *sounds of thousands of viewers closing tab*

[@skialpin9]

No go for what reason???

[@KW-gd6jw]

@@skialpin9 It has to do with he TMC2208 drivers installed. He mentions it in the beginning of the video

[@jalensailin]

ya but literally look at the comment right above yours and youll see someone who meticulously went through the steps to try to make it work!

[@TheRealFrankWizza]

Anyone know if this is good with the 2209 silent drivers in the big tree tech silent boards? Nevermind, he tests it with a 2209.

[@jalensailin]

D Johnson It actually doesn’t work nicely w my 2209s and I’m not sure why. It makes an annoying buzzing sound when linear advance is on. It’s a known bug for some users of 2209s and I’m not sure why

[@gamesvrtech6666]

Very nice video, thank you! I also switched my Anycubic i3 to 2208s for quieter printing but I will try to setup LIN ADV anyways (running Marlin 2.x) Oh, and merry christmas! 🎅

[@Guapogiboy]

I checked Cura's marketplace and there's also a linear advance setting plugin by Author FieldofView. Going to test this out also. If this works, it would be easier than flashing the firmware.

[@jabela16]

I wonder if this setting works without the firmware. Please post your results.

[@jabela16]

@Pilot16H thanks, that's what I figured.

[@leekinghan2230]

Thanks really helped... although 13hr prints are now coming out at 19hr approx... so still a little tinkering to find out why

[@ammamar4269]

For many people who use Mesh Bed Leveling, or need the bed to auto-level, they will need to turn on that specific setting in the advanced settings - otherwise one of the key pre-reqs will not be satisfied :-)

[@chuck7873]

Your videos are so great ! I learnt so many things thanks to you !!!! Thank you

[@E-3]

2208s with LA, I found I needed to disable s curve acceleration to get it to work correctly on my SKR1.3. They just would not play nice together.

[@FakirCB]

Works perfectly fine for me with S-curve acceleration enabled on SKR 1.3. I had some issues at the beginning with the extruder stepper not moving at all, but that was fixed by a few tweaks in the advanced config file (I can look them up if you're intrested). It needs to run in the SpreadCycle mode (StealthChop mode cannot keep up and skips like crazy), but that's the only limitation. I like to keep everything in StealthChop by default, so my start G-code contains "M569 S0 E" to switch the extruder to SpreadCycle and the end G-Code will switch it back to StealthChop.

[@blackader_]

Ahoj, koukám že jsi z čech, mohl bys mi prosimtě pomoct s nastavením advanced config? Taky se mi nehýbe extruder a nevím co s tím.

[@FakirCB]

@@blackader_ Pokusím se, budu-li umět. Pro začátek bych potřeboval nějaký základní info, jako např. co to je za stroj, jaká deska (SKR 1.3?), jaké drivery (2208?), verze Marlina, atd., abych si udělal obrázek. Dále, kdy se to netočí? Pouze po zapnutí LA, nebo to souvisí ještě s něčím jiným?

[@blackader_]

FakirCZ Desku máma SKR 1.3 s drivery TMC 2208 v3. Stroj je to Anet a8, kde jsem vyměnil původní desku za SKR. Software mám nejaktuálnější marlin 2.0, který je k dispozici. Při LN nefunguje pouze extruder, ostatní motory fungují, tak nevím jestli je to nějaký bug marlinu, či něco jiného. A když LN je vypnuto, tak celá tiskárna funguje jak má

[@FakirCB]

@@blackader_ Ok, tak to je stejné, jako u mě (stejná elektronika, akorát Ender 3). Moje konfigurace má zapnuté skoro všechno (akcelerační křivky, LA, junction deviation, ABL...), ale abych to rozchodil, musel jsem v advanced configu upravit tyhle dva parametry: MINIMUM_STEPPER_POST_DIR_DELAY 20 MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 2 Pak začal chodit extruder i při K > 0. Dále doporučuju zapnout ADAPTIVE_STEP_SMOOTHING, udělalo to obrovský rozdíl v hlučnosti při některých pohybech obou hlavních os současně (třeba oblouky o větším průměru), kde na Enderovi docházelo k rezonancím, které byly jak slyšet, tak cítit (bez ohledu na 2208 v tichém režimu). Nevím, jestli je to potřeba i na tvém stroji, ale zase se tím nedá nic zkazit. U posledního Marlina (commity za poslední měsíc, nebo tak) pozor, nějak se jim povedlo si rozbít ABL a po vyvážení lítá Z-offset po všech čertech. Už je to potvrzený bug. Mám na Enderovi BL-Touch a budu kvůli tomu vracet zpátky cca 2 měsíce starou verzi, kde to ještě fungovalo. Mimo toho ale funguje v pohodě.

[@alejandroperez5368]

10:47, actually, the bulges on the Y-side features are produced due to the X-axis movement, not the Y... Just look at the Ringing test from Klipper.

[@TeachingTech]

You are confusing corner bulges (present on every corner) with ringing. With ringing you are correct, but this is not that.

[@Todestelzer]

Dialing in jerk, acceleration and k-factor is a pain in the butt. But nice results when they are on point. Only downside is the higher print time.

[@spikekent]

Finally got the SKR 1.3 and TMC2209's in the #Borg. Just the linear advance to do in the morning. Then I'll have to find another upgrade for it :-) Already got that in mind though.

[@4thfrom7]

That was the prettiest Benchy I've ever seen.