Lionsteel M4 vs Fallkniven F1x

To well made fixed blades very well suited to outdoors but one is much more versatile
Check DLT to find one and if you use my link it does help the channel dlt.link/2utYZWt

[@noviceknives]

Love my F1x thanks to you when you did initial review, it is a tank but I had no issue cutting and shaving wood. Thanks again!

[@Datsyzerberg]

Prices changed now. 168.00 for McCarty m4. 180.00 for the F1x. Just pulled the trigger on the F1x. Your reviews def helped me decide.

[@mikeelek9713]

Both are really nice looking knives with different approaches. You probably would be good with either. I like the curves of the LionSteel, particularly on the grip and would be inclined to select that one.

[@JesusIsAlphaOmega001]

Oh wow 💯

[@bobcorn69]

any fällkniven x series knife + victorinox or opinel = the perfect combination.

[@shorty7943]

The f1x is the perfect knife for me, i own it since 6 months and it does a great job

[@jdnotariano]

Good comparison. I like everything about the F1x except I prefer the M4 grip shape and material and the leather sheath. If the F1 came with a thicker more well fitted grip and a leather holster it would be an easy choice. I also can get the F1x for $169 where I am, vs $149 for the lion steel. Tough choice.

[@alexanderbertallo1995]

Two of Europe's finest production fixed blades... Thanks for the comparison. Much love from Switzerland

[@RubricoA.]

but fallkniven is manufactured in Japan.

[@Lonewolf_rider]

@@RubricoA. under licence of Fallkniven Sweden.

[@teddyperkins3406]

@@Lonewolf_rider it could be licensed by anything you want to imagine, but its still made in japan

[@Lonewolf_rider]

@@teddyperkins3406 Okay, but what's the problem with Japan?

[@teddyperkins3406]

@@Lonewolf_rider nothing at all. Im just reiterating the fact, so that its japanese roots arent overlooked by its association to sweden. the japanese know knives and the swedes knew theyd get quality by outsourcing its production to japan

[@Sugardaddy501]

Lionsteel; same reason I love my svord kiwi fixed blade.

[@BushcraftSweden]

Love my f1x to split kindling at home and start a fire but I noticed I dont use any of my expensive bushcraft knives in the woods unless I do fire in a firebox... I use a small folder for all food preps and a saw and a small axe for fire and carpentry.. my bushcraft knives are just useless weight in the pack

[@serkanvarlk3809]

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[@micheletennis87]

Hi, so based on your experience which is better of the two for survival / survival? Thank you

[@greekveteran2715]

Lionsteel M4s spine is sharp enough to use with ferorods. Disigned for both comfort and prevent accidental thump cuts but also can be used with ferorods to make sparks. The new micarta version of the Lionsteel M4, has perfect weight and balance which makes it the better knife. Original Falkniven F1 with Cos steel, is the way to go, however micarta Lionsteel M4, properly sharpened, is close to perfection. That handle ergos, is 2nd to none!

[@mrdarren1045]

You recently advised me that the micarta version of the m4 was better than the g10. Well I also got Myself a b41... The micarta version. No idea how it compares to the g10 version but I'm loving this micarta b41. Lionsteel do a great job with their handles and the micarta is just the right texture. Not too rough like some canvas micarta but still grippy enough.

[@greekveteran2715]

@@mrdarren1045 The only knife, that I bought the same knife twice in my life, is the Lionsteel M4. I'm glad you like it! B41 and the M4 micarta versions, are in my opinion, the BEST Lionsteel fixed blades they make. Their G10 is also really good quality, but it is way to heavy.That also, destroes the balance of the knife, which is very important, for any fixed blade knife. Give it a couple of good sharpenings and raise-convex the edge a bit, to make it perform better! I,m really glad you like it! Lionsteel and TRC are the best quality knife makers, at the moment.Enjoy your new knife!!!

[@W49Boowie]

@@greekveteran2715 The M4 has a Skeletonised tang, remove a handle scale and you will see a large rectangular hole hidden beneath. Water, sweat, and at the worst salt water can penetrate under the scales and initiate rusting. Even though M390 is very corrosion resistant as you no doubt will already know it will rust. It's highly ill-advised to ever baton with this knife as the tang design is weak. As for balance it's seconded and keeping the G10 scales on will at least reinforce the knifes structure. Periodical removal of one scale to check for rusting is my advice also.

[@greekveteran2715]

@@W49Boowie What you say are all 100% true! I don't have a reason to baton any knife, because I'm not that much brainwashed from marketing and all that baton and bushcraft madness. On knives like the Mora Classic or Ka-Bar Mark 1, I seal the front part with glue, to avoid water and moisture getting inside. On the Micarta version of M4, you can feel the skeletonization, because it's a very light knife for the thickness of the steel and the materials. However, on the G10 version the knife is way heavier and people may mistakenly believe, its' a full tang.As good as it is, M4 is a back up knife for me. For my users I prefer ballbearing steel, PS Full Tang or not, isn't the factor that determines a tough knife construction, neither is the thickness of the blade. It's the way the knife was made and bunch of other details, that make a knife more or less solid/tough. For example the overrated Strongarm, it isn't full tang, but can easily be tougher and hold way longer on abuse, than most full tang knives that cost more. Soft steel and the way the transition where the tang meets the blade, are way more important, factors. PS 2 Thinner blades can be proved tougher than thicker ones, because they can bend.

[@W49Boowie]

@@greekveteran2715 Given that a said steel is used to make two knives of exactly the same design with one exception, one is full tang and the other is skeletonised, the full tang knife will be stronger and by a margin. I found it rather amusing, although it was kind of you to explain very rudimentary knife engineering but I am already aware of those matters and a great deal more. As for a knife being skeletonised but then the handle scales being sealed this will only work for a short time as under regular use and because the M4 is made of steel, the steel will expand and contract due to temperature changes caused by the elements, the heat of the hand, micro movements of the scales and the lossening of bolts/rivets ( The M4 obviously etcetera. Once the seal is compromised then moisture can get. Considering moisture can permeate the surface of a blade via micro fissures and micro flaws in the steels surface and then cause rust spots to occur moisture is more than capable of penetrating a quickly broken seal and then yet again one scale at least has to be removed to check that no iron oxide is present. The benefits of a full tang knife are many as long as it is manufactured to a high degree of quality. I still have no idea why you mentioned this as an inferior knife of an inferior design whether it is full tang or skeletonised should not out perform a superior high quality knife of a superior skeletonised design of a made of a superior steel. A high quality full tang knife has a far greater surface area and a sealing layer of water resistant material under the handle scales, with the M4 this just under the plunge grind being exactly the same width as the correct stamp side or pile side scale and then extending all the way to the termination of the handle scale. This layer of water resistant material can be bonded very strongly and have far greater durability than sealant as you described yourself using on your M4. I'm surprised that you didn't think to make a template of the two handle scales and then cut a water resistant thin layer of a material of your choice and then use a strong flexible glue to aid with the adhesion of the skeletonised tang to the water resistant layer and bond it to the handle scale material, the best retail provided material for water resistance being the black G10 which will also strengthen the knifes structure marginally as the G10 acts as a weak brace spanning over the skeletonised gap and it is also far more water resistant than any of the retail provided wood options of handle scales. Olive wood is the second best option as far as strength and has the higher density than Santos wood or Walnut, and that density make it the most water resistant of the three. Some buyers might not like to be aware that the pieces of Olive wood used by Lionsteel and other manufacturers are invariably from small fallen branches and prunings as Olive wood is a very expensive wood, and storm felled trees will most likely be used to make furniture. Olive trees take a long time to grow and they are beautiful and provide Olive oil which is a wonderful and expensive substance so this adds to value aswel. A high quality full tang knife will be stronger and hold its structural integrity far longer than its exact twin with the exception of its twin being a skeletonised tang.

[@timb8970]

If I’m in a survival situation I’m not too concerned about slicing apples. F1 all the way!! Great video.

[@vagabond4576]

@@landofpc Dont even know if that was an argumentative statement or just blurting out crap. Either way unnecessary. In a survival situation you want to be prepared you twit. And the F1X fits a better bill even though both are capable.

[@anthonyblend9917]

Both are not made for survival, because they are to small for this.

[@Phaminator525]

You’re probably never gonna be in a survival situation and you’ll be using your knife more for cutting apples or filleting fish rather than prying wood or splitting wood. A knife under 4 inches needs to be slicey

[@nicknunya8213]

The F1x looks poggerz

[@JayBradford]

Great review as always and I also use my M4 to field dress game. Fun fact, in my experience the M390 edge will hold up for exactly 1.5 wild boar as far as field dressing, skinning and butchering goes. The coarse hair and thick fat on a big boar is a real challenge for the blade and I had to touch up my M4 a couple of times last fall. Otherwise I am satisfied with its performance. And yes, I own a whole series of Fällknivens (F1, H1, S1 and A1) which are all great knives,

[@mr.b111]

What holds up better in dressing game, F1 or M4? And which version of the F1 are you using?

[@JayBradford]

@@mr.b111 The M4 holds up pretty well for gutting and skinning several deer in a row but takes a little work to resharpen. I have the original F1 in VG10 that also works great but doesn’t keep an edge as long as M390. On the other hand VG10 is MUCH easier to resharpen in the field.

[@Kman31ca]

Ya I did two deer with mine and it barely needed stropping. Great knives.

[@Alkhoholic]

I agree with you feedback but I would say the F1 is also an excellent for hunting and skinning. For food prep I just use the blade on my multi tool that I carry always.

[@JohnDoesItAll]

I love the quality leather sheath on the M4 but you've made some good points on carry limitations. Nothing is more disappointing than a high quality knife in a cheapo sheath; sacrilege lol!

[@perry2768]

ferro rod for m4 it's super and the wood not equal. Falkniven is beautyfull but ooooverpriced f1x cost 250-300, lionsteel 160-180

[@williamkang9475]

ooh too bad man... where I live they are both at about 190$

[@jordy703]

Whats the difference between the M4 and B41 lionsteel?

[@mrdarren1045]

Different steels... different size and style blades... different handles. All they have in common is the manufacturer.

[@DecayingReality]

Carry both.

[@DrD313]

The F1x is an amazing knife. The M4 is a good knife.

[@user-md3hi9sq5j]

M4 for me .

[@LairdDavidson]

A quick check of online prices in the UK and F1x is only slightly more expensive than the M4. The difference is so small that price isn't a factor. Not that I'm planning to buy either right now I'm happy with my S1x

[@paulll47]

You can easily strike a ferro rod with an m4.

[@thadward4629]

Even with the rounded spine it still scraps a ferro rod extremely well.... why are you misleading veiwers?

[@IvanIvanov-mk2cp]

Fallkniven FTW !!!!

[@mrdarren1045]

I love lionsteel knives. They are perfect fit and finish except for one thing... Every lionsteel I've had has a really rubbish edge. They are really uneven and all over the place. If you like a nice symmetrical edge you WILL have to reprofile it. That's my only gripe with lionsteel. Whoever is putting the edges on needs to concentrate and do better. Other than that great knives. Edit: in the past couple of months I have had another 2 lionsteel knives and this time the edges were perfect? Could this be a very rare occasion of a company listening to their customers? I don't know. All I do know is that my newer lionsteels now have vastly better edges than they used to have.

[@joelhunter984]

I have an F1X I got from the boys at DBK as a gift. I skin deer with it all the time and have not found it to unfriendly to use for field dressing any animal including the thick breast plate on a wild hog.

[@mrdarren1045]

The convex edge will be helping with that.

[@Tripledigit0922]

So, on f1x sheath, there is a bottom loop on it. What is that for? Leg lanyard to restrict the movement? Mine came with the stainless belt attachment and sits even lower. It makes annoying rattling noise. I wonder if I could use the bottom loop for the lanyard to make this quiet. Also, very difficult to pull out with one hand only.

[@SkullySkullmeister]

Love my Fallknivens 🤟💌

[@vagabond4576]

F1x is more versatile on bushcraft and survival that can do a lot more things better than the m4. But your worried about cutting vegatables.

[@mrdarren1045]

The f1x also has a very uncomfortable handle (I have one so yes I know) and the stock is far too think for a blade of around 4 inches. It's also heavily over priced and not as good as the basic vg10 f1.

[@barrylilley6392]

If you had a knife for slicing and needed a tank 🤷‍♂️ I don’t think a 4” blade is going to be the best pick up , get a TRC apocalypse for your 2nd knife , will do everything and more

[@leeonr]

lionsteel all day!

[@rodrigoroaduterte9415]

Is M4 sheath covered with blood? :)

[@huejanus5505]

The F1 is way too thick for such a short blade, for my liking.

[@rodrigoroaduterte9415]

Well, F1x was designed to help Swedish military pilots survive behind the enemy lines. Kind of :) So it is supposed to withstand the most severe punishment.

[@Phaminator525]

@@rodrigoroaduterte9415well good think both of us will never have to do that. Most of us will be just fine with a thinner blade. And carry a bigger blade for the chopping and splitting

[@xbtusd7501]

when people butt in and say , ""what are you doing?"" when im skinning my deer i have harvested , i just cut them a little bit and say go find your own deer smart arse ! fallkniven F1x

[@nomia-ez1nm]

You certainly can scrape a fire steel with an M4 kzbin.info/www/bejne/il7MfniZZq-Hb80

[@RugerNuger]

This guy sounds like Jordan Peterson 😅🤣🤣

[@Kevinclearysharpstuff]

I wish that was true, I would make millions off my 12 rules for knives book