Knife Making: The Coffee Can Forge, improved

[@unanimousanonymous3354]

Another video with drastically more views than likes or comments. People really should show appreciation more. Great video!

[@christopherregister2246]

Nicely done sir Nicely done

[@zachtoungate2043]

Loved this video! I personally really enjoyed the background and storm footage since that's how life happens sometimes, it makes it more interesting. On the topic of things coming as a surprise... Thank you for the honesty about what works well and what has less than optimal results, it's incredibly helpful to see that so people can learn more easily.

[@LittleTipple]

I always think that you can learn more from mistakes than successes, so hopefully I can help someone avoid any of the problems I had. Thank you so much for your comment! And that hail was pretty incredible!

[@creativewoodworker4300]

Watched someone’s coffee can build with one part sand and one part plaster of Paris. They also put a paint can in the center allowing the mix to only dry for 30 minutes and then pushing the can all the way through. There insides of the can looked really good.

[@LittleTipple]

See, mine looked great when i'd pulled the mold out, but on heating it became clear that it just wasn't going to stand up to the heat at all - hence the relining. I'd be interested to see what theirs looked like after a few heavy firings...

[@creativewoodworker4300]

Good to know that you can always repair it with refracting material.

[@gerardhart9052]

I don't know forging but have lots of experience with refractories and insulation on industrial gas fired reactors, your basics are spot on the buils is usually steel shell (reccomend 30mm dia. X 1mm thk galvanized duct for you it usually comes in 1m lengths), kaowool min 50mm thick and high density refractory cement min 30mm thk (mixing instructions are by weight and need to be closely followed or buy the premixed stuff which needs to be tamped into place. I would like to know what the optimal burner placement is exactly? P.S. any cracking is usually due to improper dryout procedure, manufacturer will specify, however some is inevitable as forges always have hot and cold cycles.

[@andrewallason4530]

8:01 yeah. The main issue is that kaowool, without the rigidiser remains flexible, so any coating will crack off easily. Also, kaowool needs to be coated in a suitable refractory cement. The sand/plaster mix is NOT a suitable coating for it, but is, on it’s own, a suitable temporary refractory material. Just mix it at a 1:1 ratio, and no need to use any other insulation. Just don’t expect it to last a long time ( but it’s cheap and easy to repair and replace).

[@onemanbanjo975]

The only reason the plaster is cracking is because you have that fire wool or whatever it’s called beneath the plaster causing the plaster to be less structurally sound. If you had only used the plaster and sand mix that would’ve been fine. I made mine with the plaster and sand mix and it seems to be perfectly fine. Regardless thanks for the video!

[@LittleTipple]

You’re so welcome, and thank you so much for the info!

[@MrKYT-gb8gs]

How is this s year? Still usable?

[@MrKYT-gb8gs]

Hello

[@onemanbanjo975]

@@MrKYT-gb8gs sure is!

[@MrKYT-gb8gs]

@@onemanbanjo975 wow good to know, thanks. I ding need to do much else othef than sand and plaster to have a functioning forge.

[@ChristopherHale-vp9zd]

I was gonna try map Gass torch and a fire extuasure

[@polisheverything1970]

Would a satanite mix be a suitable replacement for the refractory cement

[@Catboy-hr2qp]

Would this work for heat treating 1085, 5160, 80crv2 etc? All call for temps of around 1500f. Just getting into knife making and need a cheap way of heat treating carbon steels, also how long does a canister of propane/map last running full blast on there?

[@michellek5789]

Hi where did you source the 5l paint tin? Thanks

[@LittleTipple]

Hi there, I got it from EBay - literally searched 5l paint tin I think... took a week or so to get here, but very straightforward!

[@ericmoody3944]

Just made my first forge today, the biggest issue I'm having now is getting the paint can out.... any suggestions?

[@LittleTipple]

Getting the paint can out of where? Did you use a second one to create the hollow in the middle...?

[@ericmoody3944]

@@LittleTipple yes, sorry I meant spray can as the middle hollow. Now it's stuck, I am letting it cure and will peel it out. Lol

[@LittleTipple]

I'm hoping it was an empty spray can?😂 Let me know how you get on!

[@salmongood3151]

Could you please tell me which blowtorch you used?

[@LittleTipple]

I got the Vortex Map Gas kit from Toolstation. Let me know how you get on!

[@camaroguy84]

How's it holding up a year later?

[@LittleTipple]

It’s still working - it needed a little patching to repair a crack, but I’ve replaced it with a bigger model for “proper forging” - it always got hot enough for heat treating, but never beyond a dull orange - not enough to move steel! I still use it for heat treatment though - it’s a little more controllable at lower temps!

[@riner0631]

Where did you buy all the components?

[@LittleTipple]

Mostly off Ebay to be honest, other than the blowtorch and the step-up drill bit, which I got from screwfix... (bolts are also from screwfix...)

[@ultranitro437]

Why dont you just point the opening up so the knife will sit down in it?

[@LittleTipple]

You could do that, then it would be more a furnace deisgn than a forge - the main problem is you'd need to suspend the forge differently, as the base would then get very hot, and i'd worry about uncombusted gass collecting at the base - you'd need to put the burner right at the base. Also, you'd risk damaginf the furnace structure dropping the blade in, and you'd be resting a hot, soft knife on it's point, so could easily introduce bending or warping. But I've seen all of these issues overcome with some designs, I'm just not sure it'd work with this one...

[@theemclane4037]

You Sir need to be a professional voice over artist or narrator