Lockpicking Beginners Tips: How to Gut a Lock Without a Key (even if you can't pick it)

[@LockFumbler]

Great video on this really useful Trick 👍👍 Awesome for people just starting out unaware of this. Thanks for creating this 👍👍👋

[@chriscapune7873]

Great demonstration!!! Well done! 🐈‍⬛🐾🐈🐾

[@leglesslockpicker]

Using a blank key instead of a pick can make it less of a struggle. Great video 👏 have a great weekend 😜♿

[@Myloks]

Very well done Jon. that's a great demonstration.. If you have a blank key you can now hand file a working key for the lock. I've done that quite a few times... I use the HUK core holder to make sure each pin is flush, before moving on to the next. Cheers bud 👍 🍻

[@BeercanBushcraft]

That's a goodun. I will give that a go too. 😎👍🍻

[@SadisticPicker]

This is great idea. Good video. I did this very thing not long ago. Never even thought to make it on video. Great thinking!

[@roysammons2445]

Love it! Excellent tutorial Jon.

[@rsmiley5]

You know what might be an interesting video for new people coring locks? From the pins in the tray back to a working lock again. The first one I took apart , aside from springs going everywhere, I could not get everything back in easiy. I got the first 3 pins back but all the stuff at the back was nothing but trouble.

[@JonLock]

Great idea, I’ll do one!

[@SystemX1983]

Well, it's actually this video in reverse 😃 Instead of the shim you could insert the plug rotated a bit, so the first driver pin doesn't shoot back in the first chamber of the plug he sees 😉 but you could totally use the shim

[@BeercanBushcraft]

Agreed 💯😎👍🍻

[@j.gabriel8573]

This can be tricky with camera angles ( to view through the camera rebuilding if filming ), but once you have the springs in and follower ( keep in mind that some springs poke up past the shear line from the bible) use a pick to push the spring down while inserting the follower so you don't damage the spring. 5 and 6 chamber plugs - 5, best to start at chamber 3 then go 2 or 4, then from 2 to 1 or 4 to 5, work one direction only. Same method for 6 or 7 chamber. Would recommend working on 5 pinners with standard pins. Challenge locks that have magnetic pins in them ( I've made some 😈 or even my catastrophe pins ) or even 2 part and pin in pin. You will definitely have your hands full on rebuilding a lock. So much that you're not going to expect with locks on LockSport when it comes to different levels of locks and challenge locks. It's always good to look at and research stock locks and challenge locks ( CLs ) through videos that other LockSport community members have posted on tips for gutting and rebuilding. For those who have problems gutting and rebuilding, I wish you the best as you learn. I would definitely find some locks that you could practice with and when gutting the body/Bible, I would recommend as you push the follower back with your pick/probe that you lush down on the pin once the follower has cleared and exposed the pin and then slowly release the downward pressure of the driver pin to release spring tension, so that it doesn't go shooting off somewhere and you can view it's orientation. Unless, it's standard pins or pins that have an obvious top and a bottom. Hope this helps those who were curious about what to keep in mind while rebuilding the lock after gutting.

[@murdo_mck]

It's easier to put the back body pins in while working from the back, so insert 4, 5 and 6 while advancing the plug follower then push it through to expose 3 and finish from the front.

[@BeercanBushcraft]

Jon, Jon, Jon, thanks for that 👍 Jolly good timing. Well, as you know I gutted a lock for the first time on camera this last week. I had a key and was thinking about what to do without a key! Because I have a lock without one that I can't pick. And I'm going to take PocketWomen's advice and partially repin it! So, Brilliant mate, thanks again. Here's a tip from a beginner's perspective, take a photograph of the pins in the pinning tray!! Have a great weekend 👍 👍 🍻 🍻

[@lwilton]

Thanks for the lesson! I'll be able to use that to disassemble some eBay cylinders I bought a while ago. A small suggestion from an old audio guy if you don't mind. There is "plosive" noise on your audio. This is when you make a sound like "P", and the puff of air from your breath hits the microphone and makes basically wind noise. You can feel this wind yourself. Hold the palm of your hand about 3 inches in front of your mouth and say something that has some p's in it. You will feel the gust of wind on the palm of your hand with each P. The plosive noise usually happens when you have the microphone pretty much straight in front of your mouth. It might be a foot or so away, and it can still happen. The easy way to fix this is just to move the microphone to the side of your head instead of directly in front. I don't know what kind of mic you are using. If it is a small mic with a clip you might clip it to your shirt collar, or the top of the bill of a baseball cap. If it is a mic on a stand, move the stand to the side a bit. A little experimentation will find a good location. I hope this is of some help!

[@JonLock]

Thanks for the mic tips. Currently all of my recording is just a stock iPhone - camera and mic. One day I might try to upgrade it - but money on locks or mics… hmmm 🤔. 🎉🤙🍾

[@murdo_mck]

I did this with only shim and a normal key (cut for another lock) which, fortunately, was high enought to lift the pins at the far end. A plug follower can be improvised from a piece of dowel wrapped in duct tape and the end cut flush. Necessity ...

[@jeffandthings77]

Good advice on moving the shim in and out slightly if you're not making progress-I've had problems before if there's spools or serrated in the bible where I caught on the driver pins. But great execution and advice there!

[@JonLock]

Yup… you can try pushing them up all the way in that case and less likely to have too much nasty stuff on the key pins.

[@jeffandthings77]

@@JonLock Hadn't thought of that, thanks!

[@stevemasters9921]

For me, it’s easier if you use an uncut blank key instead of lifting the pins with a pick. Also “bouncing” the shim in and out, slightly, as you very slowly remove the key. As the driver pin slides off of the tip of the key, and the shim is sliding in and out, it will slide in between the driver and top pin.

[@JonLock]

Yes, if you have a key blank this works great.

[@siskospaceman]

Great video and great information for beginners! Nice DuckTray! Is that maple?

[@JonLock]

I believe so! It was one of my winnings from the LPU raffle this year!

[@jkj9404]

Lol he says I'm not picking it right after saying let me stick my pick in

[@JonLock]

Yup, buts I’m really not using the pick to “pick it”- you can use any tool (as others mentioned a key blank could work, or even a paper clip). This is really about when you don’t have the skill to open a lock and it’s meant for locksporters, who I assume would have a pick… so that’s the best tool I know of to push on the pins.

[@j.gabriel8573]

I am not sure if this method works for an SFIC or LFIC. I tried long ago and I wasn't able to do it. I had found an old discarded b Best was able to pick it to control shear line. that core is still floating around somewhere. great video 🦾