Logitech G502 Lightspeed Micro Switch Replacement Tutorial -- Double Click Issue Fix

[@someone424-s7l]

Thanks man, just changed 3 of my G502 Lightspeed switches to Kailh GM 8's. Great Tutorial.

[@StanMakesStuff]

Awesome! Glad it helped!

[@shriharit6357]

Were u able to change the side buttons as well?

[@someone424-s7l]

Yes I only changed the DPI Up button, Although I wouldn't recommend it if you don't need to, since then the DPI Up button takes a lot of forces compared to before. The switches used for side buttons need very less force compared to Kailh GM 8's.

[@shriharit6357]

@@someone424-s7l my thumb buttons have started double clicking. Any idea what switches I should use to replicate the same click feel?

[@whencuriositystrikes880]

Thanks for a well-presented video that's clear and to the point. 2 aspects that I found a bit more difficult as it seemed here in the video were the mouse-wheel pin removal and the desoldering. It's really important to push the pin out properly with a thin tool (paperclip might work just fine). I damaged my mouse wheel trying to just pull it out with force when it didn't go so easily. My bad, of course, but it seemed so easy here. The desoldering part just seems like magic to me. I see what you're doing and it apparently works perfectly, but I don't seem to be the only one that struggles with removing the solder so easily and even to the point, that you can just pull out the switch with a bit of force and wiggling. What eventually worked best for me was clipping the old switch's pins off, adding a bit more solder and pulling lightly on the microswitch as I kept heating the 3 solder points in parallel to the best of my abilities. Then, I turned the board around and softened the solder again and pushed a thin nail of sorts through to basically sharpen the basic wholes that I can then easily push the new micro switch's pin through. When completing the soldering, I also made sure the new micro switches lay as flat as possible to the board, which wasn't completely trivial given the above process. I'm just stating all that so others don't wonder why it doesn't work and get stuck, too. And to everyone wanting to attempt this: Please have some proper tools (helping hands) or friends for this process too. It can be a pain in the ass even with all that, but if you don't have anything to properly hold this tiny board etc. in place as you work with a hot soldering iron, it's extremely frustrating.

[@gintonic8218]

This video is as detailed and descriptive as it can get! I don't think anyone will ever make a better video on replacing G502 switches, so kudos and likes to you Stan! Just ordered switches (GM 4.0), high precision kit and soldering kit lol - will have a bunch of new experience this weekend :)

[@StanMakesStuff]

Thank you so much! Lol, it sucks trying to follow a tutorial that has bad camera angles and leaves parts out, been there to many times 😅 So to hear I was able to make the video I wish I had had, means allot! Thank you 😁

[@gintonic8218]

@@StanMakesStuff so, i gave it a shot and... well, while pulling out the battery connector, the cords (black, white, red) tore :( do you think it can be fixed? i.e. reconnect that white connector to the three cords? or is buying another battery an option? or just give up and get a new mouse?

[@StanMakesStuff]

Hmm, I would say to try and reconnect them if you can, and then it would be worth a quick minute to see if you can find a replacement part, but hopefully you don't have to end up shelling out for a whole new mouse. Best of luck! 👍

[@vanelanjenkins3863]

Thanks! Great tutorial. It was very helpful and got me thru the tear down rather painlessly.

[@mlodygryros]

Just bought the mouse. I'm loving it andI wanted to check if it's easy to fix in case if the switches wear out. Thank you for the tutorial! I'm saving it for the future :D

[@StanMakesStuff]

Awesome! Glad you liked it!

[@1pcfred]

That is not an easy mouse to work on at all. There's like 16 screws.

[@corevisual.design]

Thanks bro, the best video to the point!

[@StanMakesStuff]

Yay! Thank you! 😁

[@davvy966]

Thank you so much! Solved my double clicking issue. Found the old switches hard to remove, had to lever them up with a screwdriver after removing the solder but all good! Replaced with Kailh red switches and they work great

[@StanMakesStuff]

Yay! Glad it helped!

[@1pcfred]

Yeah when I changed out the switches in my Razer mouse it was like they were hammered into the board. The pins were real tight in them holes. I know what I'm doing and I had a time of it.

[@TheRealJustMo06]

Clear instructions, to the point and good tips! Nice video. I cant wait to try this myself, but have to wait for the items to arrive. Also, you forgot to put the items in you description 👀

[@StanMakesStuff]

Shoot, my bad, I'll fix that right away, thank you! 😁

[@AlecBaldwinsFinger]

Still no links in the description. @@StanMakesStuff

[@StanMakesStuff]

I'm sorry, I tried to keep active links for a while, but they change and go down to often. Especially the microswitch itself, always going in and out of stock.

[@AlecBaldwinsFinger]

No worries. I found a seller on Amazon that sells the whole circuit board with new switched installed. Your video is the best at showing the assembly/disassembly so I will be using it for the swap. Thank you!@@StanMakesStuff

[@connortimoti]

this guide is really good, havent used a soldering iron in almost 20 yrs but managed to replace my switches with kailh blue, removing the old ones was a bit of a pain in the ass though. thankfully instructions were easy to follow for the teardown/rebuild. 👍

[@StanMakesStuff]

Awesome! Thank you for the feedback, glad it helped!

[@detergentman5715]

Any tips on replacing middle mouse swith

[@fleetingimmersion]

How similar are the guts for this mouse and the G502 Hero? That's what I have, but other videos I've found on it aren't nearly as good as this one, so if the guts were essentially identical, I'd like to use this one if possible.

[@StanMakesStuff]

I'm not sure because I have never dug in to the hero, but given how complex this one is, I think if you follow the same concept and disassemble it carefully, screw by screw, you should be fine when it comes to replacing the microswitch

[@fleetingimmersion]

@@StanMakesStuff Thanks for that, here's hoping I can find out if the switch is compatible or identical.

[@sanjeevsudhakar]

Great video. Thanks, this fixed my double click issue.

[@StanMakesStuff]

Yay! Glad I could help!

[@beatrizisabele8981]

Great tutorial! I tihink it would be nice to show the screws for each part. I ended with 2 leftovers lol

[@36th_Ghost]

from what i see, i don't need a new micro switch. i can replace the broken one with the DPI switch, which was not in use. right?

[@StanMakesStuff]

Lol, if you wanted to you could do that

[@Cobrass2]

I have a different switches on my G502 lightspeed, for the left and right i have the same black Omicron switches, for the side clicks i have red omicron switches..

[@strawberrymilky15]

is this a completely mechanical switch? Does this also happen to the hybrid optical switches? Cause I'm looking for a new mouse where this doesn't happen

[@StanMakesStuff]

Hmm, good question, which I had an answer but I have no idea 😅

[@webtax]

what about mouse 3(mouse wheel click, the one you use to close tabs on browser) is it repairable? in mine it works like 2/10 times it's pressed.

[@StanMakesStuff]

From my understanding, any microswitch in that mouse can be replaced in a similar way, but with the mouse wheel switch there are a few mechanical bits, (like the spring and plastic) that might be dirty or broken.

You are such an amazing guy, i do it, perfect tutorial, in the finals step, i lose one of the sh1tt1 springs, but i replace it with another similar from a Bic lighter, cutting here and there, and the middle mouse button just works perfectly, nice tutorial bro, i replacet it with huano pink transparent, here in Argentina there´s the only a few brands, and well, i think those sw are quite good enough, thanks again.

[@StanMakesStuff]

Yay! Glad to hear it helped! Good work adapting!

[@abzaman77]

I got issues with the 2 sided button on the scroll wheel. Can you make a tutorial on that? What type of clicks are those? TIA

[@StanMakesStuff]

Hmmm, are you sure it is the microswitches? Or could it be the mechanical bits?

[@abzaman77]

I'm not sure what those switches are called, but I'm sure that the issue is with the two side clicks of the scroll wheel. They don't seem to register any clicks. I'm referring to those square box type switches.

[@StanMakesStuff]

Those are definitely a different type of switch, but the process of replacement is the same

[@MirelRC]

Great video. Well explained and showed the steps. I recommend using a hairdryer to remove the pads much easier. How does the TTC gold feel? Right now, I have some GM 4.0 and I want to replace my G703 original switches with GM 4.0‚ but recently I've discovered those TTC Gold Dustproof‚ and I am interested on those.

[@StanMakesStuff]

Thank you! I don't really have a reference of comparison to other aftermarket switches, but the TTC gold are definitely allot more responsive than the stock switches

[@1pcfred]

The trick to removing mouse skates is some isopropyl alcohol. Work some under and it releases the glue.

[@NainyDiallo]

still no links in the description tho

[@StanMakesStuff]

I'm sorry about that. I tried to keep links for a while, but they kept going out of stock, so I was constantly having to try to switch them to active ones. The switches I used were 30k TTC Gold Dust Proof switches, but even then, I wanted to used the 80k switches and they were out of stock at the time 😅

[@genskie24]

I dont understand how i had a $2 mouse that literally lasted a decade and when I decide to replace it with a gaming mouse it starts having issues a year in. 😂

[@StanMakesStuff]

For realz 😂

[@crossmartile6790]

Thanks joven I like tu tutorial

[@boodi1170]

Did you reupload this?

[@StanMakesStuff]

Yep, complicated reorganization between channels and such

[@1pcfred]

Nice lifted switch there. Anyone that wants to do this right solder the middle pin, push on the switch and get it fully on the board while heating the middle pin. Then once the switch is fully seated solder the other two pins. Also when you're desoldering it helps to add flux to the solder joint to get it to flow. The pro method is to just add a bit of fresh solder before you begin desoldering. I know it sounds backwards to add solder to desolder but that's how it's done. There's flux in solder. When they manufactured the board they washed away all the flux they used. Just part of the manufacturing process. It's not a bad idea for you to clean any flux residue you might leave soldering too. Isopropyl alcohol works. You use a cropped flux brush. Or an old toothbrush. In a pinch paper towel can work. Do a neat and clean job of it. Don't leave pinholes in your solder joint like this guy did either. That's an inspection fail. Really his meniscus is terrible. The bigger the glob the better the job are not words to live by. When I did mil spec soldering I had to leave the form of the conductor visible.

[@kotono00]

holy shit, this is a computer mouse, not an avionics part, who cares. It ain't gonna kill people.

[@1pcfred]

@@kotono00 I've soldered avionics circuits professionally at a board assembly house. You'd be surprised what they care about. It annoyed even me. But I couldn't tell the inspectors who cares. AFAIK my work has killed people. It went into attack helicopters. I kill a lot of demons with my mouse. I play OG Doom. Solder stuff right.

[@kotono00]

@@1pcfred that's exactly what I said, this ain't going into an aircraft, it's a mouse. Who cares what the solder looks like.

[@1pcfred]

@@kotono00 the only people that will care is anyone that uses the mouse. Because if that switch isn't seated properly and soldered correctly it will not work right either. This is a part where mechanical connection matters because it is a mechanical part. you don't have any gap to play with here. That switch has to be flush on the board.

[@kotono00]

@@1pcfred the switch being lifted is the only part I can agree with. How the solder looks matters very little in this application.

[@R20C]

great video bro , where is the link for the switches

[@StanMakesStuff]

I kinda gave up on keeping a current link because they kept going out of stock. It's the Gold TTC switches, here's a current Amazon link, but it's just for the 30m click rating. You want to find the 80m if possible. Kamonda 2piece TTC Dustproof Gold Mouse Micro Switch Micro Button Gold Contactor 30 Million TTC Dustproof Gold Mouse Micro Switch Micro Button a.co/d/63Bg3tc

[@RomaYT999]

Now I know where all the weight comes from.

[@SirCarcass]

It's a nice mouse, but I wish they could have added more screws.

[@1pcfred]

Yeah if they just used enough screws they could have welded them all together. Job done! Who needs any plastic parts anyways?

[@HerrNirmas]

After 2 min of watching naaa i will buy a new Mouse

[@StanMakesStuff]

Fair enough 😂

[@1pcfred]

Fixing mice isn't for everyone. The mouse in this video is not easy to work on.

[@karlluigi1987]

too much work, I'll just buy a new one

[@GEB_Rosee_PPS]

real