Lowering my 68 Mustang

[@3rdstallgarage]

Clear, straight forward and helpful. I enjoyed learning from it. Thanks and Merry Christmas!!

[@68mustangrestoration34]

Thank you sir, I am glad your car is sorted now, as I said these cars were "good from far, BUT far from good" when they left the assembly line. She will be beautiful when done.

[@outofgasgarage929]

When I put my 69 together after doing the shelby drop it took a good few miles until my suspension settled. I would not cut or adjust anything until you drive the car for a little bit to let it settle. My car sat pretty high when it was freshly assembled. Very informative video, thank you for sharing.

[@68mustangrestoration34]

Thank you as your post is timely. Honestly I have already pulled the 1/2 inch out of the coils (what can I say I move quickly) and put them back in. As far as the result I do not want to spoil my "part 2" but your information will play a large role in the update. I will keep you posted

[@saabtech3510]

@@68mustangrestoration34 Just to add to the above about letting it settle. Be sure to roll the car after lowering to the ground, as when the tire comes down to the pavement, it is at an angle, preventing the suspension from moving to it's true loaded position. This is why front-end alignment racks have sliding plates that the tire is lowered onto. Thanks again for posting. Love the series.

[@68mustangrestoration34]

@@saabtech3510Appreciate the support, thank you. I discovered that even after I had rolled and jumped on it the suspension did not move much so looks like new parts need a break in. I will mention you guys tomorrow on my part 2 when I document the results

[@outofgasgarage929]

@@68mustangrestoration34 Looking forward to part 2! Another thing to consider is to have the car fully assembled with all the parts on it to get the correct weight of the vehicle which will also affect the ride height. I also discovered that measuring at the wheel openings can be a little tricky as body panels may actually vary ever so slighlty.

[@policeofficer94]

Why would you put 55+ year old springs back on!?

[@donthompson2188]

Hey Wally, just thought I’d mention maybe disconnect your anti-sway bar(s). They too alter the car’s balance. In other words, the springs are different but the anti-sway bar is transferring some of that difference to the opposite side.

[@68mustangrestoration34]

good point, I did not think about that. the good news is that I am out only 1/4 and with the discovery of the difference in spring height I hope that is the culprit. now they should be same height and I have to drop them anyway so I will cut and re-install. If I continue to experience an issue I will remove the sway bar to see if there is an influence and update you. Thank you

[@StevoMookie]

But if we don’t cut a full coil, then either the top or the bottom of the spring is not gonna sit in their perch correctly

[@68mustangrestoration34]

Not sure if your springs were different from mine, but the bottom of my springs were flat. this allows me to rotate the spring so the top perch was engaged properly. the bottom sits flush on the control arm.

[@policeofficer94]

Eaton Spring will custom make for whatever height

[@policeofficer94]

Probably lower on drivers side because of the weight of the driver over the years AND passenger side ALWAYS takes more of a beating on crappy roads

[@68mustangrestoration34]

exactly but since I did shelby drop plus lowered them they are now equal

[@policeofficer94]

Just spend the $200 and get brand new made in USA EATON DETROIT

[@68mustangrestoration34]

understood , tried not to replace everything on the car and the springs , once leveled are working great,. Ride height is exactly where I want it . also being in Canada we have a 35% US exchange rate plus shipping is not included and based on weight can add 100 to the cost