LUXURY FASHION | How to sew 4 high-end and professional techniques to finish your woven garments

[@india1422]

Really liked the finish with the narrow elastic

[@dainaChavez]

me too! gonna try that on my next garment

[@splibragirl]

Great tutorial, lots of great tips. And the comic relief is great too! Lol at "Fred.. who's Fred?"

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Thank you so much for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed! x

[@sylviaminter4247]

I love the blouse. Thank you for this tutorial 😊

[@BarbaraJarych-l4b]

What a great tutorial. I am a beginner and it answered my questions about french seam and understitching. Thanks for this 🙏🏼 I always considered myself a minimalist, I never liked gadgets but I do love my bias binding tools. And just now after watching your video I ordered a set of rolled hem foots 🙉

[@Heyreneesews]

That was one of the best tutorials on seams I have seen. Thank you

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

wow, thank you so much for watching! I'm glad it was helpful x

[@mb5ggX2SyFMM]

Thank you very much! I subscribed. I've been trying my best to find a true luxury fashion channel with tutorials here on YT. I'm very grateful you created your channel. 💛

[@Lily656]

Your channel popped up on my feed and I’m so happy!! That was a great tutorial and you’re a great instructor. I’m not a big fan of the bias gadget . I have several but always end up at my iron. Your shirt pattern is fab with or without the collar. Looking forward to watching more of your videos!

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to leave a kind comment. Yes the bias gadgets certainly seem to divide opinions haha but I'm with you! x

[@nzsewing]

I do French seam with 1 cm for allowance. Just sew firstly with allowance 0.4 cm and on the wrong side I sew with allowance 0.6 cm. It helps to save time and don't pay too much attention to seam allowances on the cutting step

[@bkukubo]

The bias gadget is a life saver for me. I find my fingers burn from the steam of the iron when I do it manually and it takes longer doing it manually. The gadget makes it quicker and easier of rme.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

I've seen people use them effortlessly, I think I'm probably the issue! x

[@TheEvie202]

I’m partial to facings because that’s how my mom did it. Also I’m old school and the facings are more high end than bias bound finishing, or just my preference. Thank you for all the finishes and greetings from New York City 🗽 ! 👍🏼🇵🇷🗽🙏

[@marigoldmirror5194]

Loved your video.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

I'm so pleased to hear that! Thank you for watching x

[@india1422]

I did French seams on an Atelier Brunette viscose. What a nightmare. The seam allowance was 3/16. In the end I used a wider seam allowance because even with minimal handling the fabric was shredding.. next time, I will cut a wider SA

[@victoriapowell1607]

love you video, i learned so much just watching the first time

[@maureenengh4593]

My 14 Yr old granddaughter and I just made a wrap around blouse similar to this one. We'll have to make another one and use your seam finishing techniques!

[@49lucky]

I have an electric bias maker wonderful

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Yes, now THESE look like a gadget I would enjoy x

[@amyholman354]

Beautiful blouse. You have an engaging style to your video instructions. I bought a set of those bias tape makers and can't manage to make them do what they purport to do. I have misunderstood the way bias tape should sit on the edge--the color inside instead of out--and have done the kind that is on both sides. I learned French seams for a tote bag and I really think I should incorporate them in garments because they are easy to do and look elegant. I'm going to check out your facings video because the ones I've done with patterns are often floppy. The machine I bought in January comes with a rolled edge foot, and I'm now going to put this to use pronto.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

You're too kind 😭 thank you for such a lovely compliment. YES! The bias tape makers are the marmite of sewing, I swear haha. I can't get them to work either, you're not along. I also think there are no 'rules' to fashion so having the colour on the outside sounds like a fantastic detail! Just like French seams can be as wide as you like. Isn't that the beauty of making our own clothes? x

[@avdm196]

I think that with all the techniques mentioned, pressing is key. I always press open the French seams after the first run, rather than just roll with my fingers. Thereafter I press the seam closed, turn to trim and sew to enclose. I use pinking shears instead of notching and clipping. For unlined jackets I use a Hong Kong finish. I am not a fan of rolled hems except for sheers and bottoms of shirts. I have various width feet for narrow hems but the learning curve is quite long. If necessary I rather do it by hand, more tedious but nicer result. The bias binding tool is in different finished widths available and for me, easier to use than pressing the binding strips.

[@annfhallahan4347]

Great tutorial. Love the complete garment. The sleeve and drop shoulder detail fab. I do love to make my own bias binding. A rolled hem I haven't used so there's another thing to try. Thank you.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Thanks for watching! Definitely still some work to do on the design but I appreciate your encouragement. Bias binding can be very therapeutic to make!

[@brendadouglas9833]

Thank you for these tips. I think it is well worth spending the time. Like it without the collar.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Definitely worth the initial time investment for a garment that stands the test of time itself! Yes I agree, no collar, perhaps a more modest neckline though haha, I might bring it in by 1cm or so! x

[@lisarobinson479]

I just found your channel and LOVE your content. I haven't sewn anything in 20 years and now I'm ready to learn and experience all that sewing your own garments allows. Your garments look fantastic. Can't wait to learn more from your channel.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

This is such a lovely, kind comment, thank you! I can't wait to share your creative journey, thanks for choosing my little creative corner of the internet to be a part of it x

[@joygoncalves4917]

I am Very Excited to find your channel. Serger stitches itch me terribly so I can use your woven techniques for woven and I love your presentations. This is an old video - in case you or any of your watchers can advise how to avoid itching from serged knit or alternatives. PLEASE. Thank you.

[@mb5ggX2SyFMM]

I don't know of how to avoid itching from serged knits. Depending on how heavy your fabric is, you can use a Hong Kong seam finish instead of serging your knits. It is sort of like using bias binding tape, but one of the edges on the tape is not folded over and when sewn down it creates a flatter finish than regular bias tape. There are plenty of videos on YT on how to sew a Hong Kong seam finish. It also makes your garment look a lot more polished than serging. I hope this helps.

[@mronson4035]

Lovely blouse. Do you stay stitch necklines after cutting out?

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Thank you! And yes, I absolutely do :) x

[@SewingDee]

Thank you for creating this really helpful video - it’s saved for future a reference 😊. I love your sprinkling of humour especially the mention of the IBTC (which really made me chuckle) 😅. I love the clean neckline without a collar, it looks great. I’ve had varying degrees of success with the bias tape gadgets - works better on some fabrics than others. I’ve found that if I need a precise fold it has to be done by hand without the gadget as they never seem to fold evenly or consistently. I’ve tried all the finishes you mentioned but I’m not very good with rolled hems. I can’t seem to keep the correct amount of fabric feeding through and sometimes the fabric slips out of the foot. I find it very frustrating as I’m not sure if it’s me, the foot or the fabric - I clearly need to practice that one.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Hello, hello! Thank you for watching, I'm glad you found it useful. For your rolled hem, I would try marking your allowance with a basting stitch or tailor's chalk so you can feed the consistent width through the foot. If anything feels tricky, it's usually a case of taking an extra preparation step to make your life easier until you're comfortable with the technique. I believe in you! x

[@cap4life1]

Great tips! So luxury garments still use overlocked or serged seams for woven. Mostly on tailored pants and skirts. For everything else, seams are flat felled. Or the garment is lined.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Yes, this still ultimately comes down to labour cost, but couture wouldn't have an overlocked stitch in sight so it depends what level of luxury you're going for! x

[@annescanapico7168]

I just found you, this was very nice. I still like the idea of a small collar but not having the collar go to the center front, stop the collar about 2-3” from shoulder. I am very curious about how you attached the sleeve to the garment (you didn’t show that). Is the armhole more or less a flange instead of an actual armhole?

[@rhonddalesley]

I’d like to see the blouse with the collar because it’s different, I can’t be certain but I don’t think I’ve ever seen a wrap top with a collar before

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

I'll have to take me own advice and sample some versions then, haha! Thank you for the nudge and for watching x

[@rehanasahib457]

❤

[@mel_issa__]

I only use the biasbinding tool when it's a very very long strip. If it's a short piece it's faster to skip the tool and just fold as I iron. It also depends on the fabric!

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Yes textile-dependent is a very good point! x

[@julia-nc6ox]

wow great video - thank you! The elastic at the sleeve looks fab..did you catch the elastic or is it just loose in the channel?

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Thank you! The elastic was caught at the ends with a couple of stitches but runs loose in the channel. You could do it either way x

[@Finny_finn_finn]

Can you do a video on making a completely reversible dress? So all you have to do is turn your dress inside out and "viola" you have a new dress....and what hidden seam technique would you use? Can you make it with sleeves??

[@heyits_cat8966]

My idea for it would be to do this, so I'm only gonna speak on the bodice here: sew together your bodice pieces, one of each fabric. Attach them together on the outside edges of the full thing, good side to good side then flip and finish the opening. You could find a way to tack both sides together or something if you wanted, but I think they'd be fine. So anyway, your seams are hidden within the "bag" of the piece. Again I haven't done this, this was just how I made a corset that I was gonna try to make reversible but ran out of time to really pull through with it

[@TheEvie202]

I love the top. I get that this is a high end garment so that’s why the bias bound seam allowances. I really don’t see anything wrong with the over edged seam allowance. The only problem with the French seam is that it’s too hard to fit or alter. No collar it’s perfect the way it is.❤

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Yes, it all comes down to preference when choosing your desired construction technique, apart from the fittings and alterations... that comes down to toiling! Thanks for watching 😊

[@sophiaz5999]

Why do you press your shoulder seams/side seams to the back? I've seen some patterns say press to the front. Thank you!

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

One thing I love about fashion is there's no real 'rules' - as long as you like the outcome and finish, that's all the matters! Isn't that what being creative is all about? But pressing your seams in particular directions can affect the way the garment lies. I.e. if you had an in-seam pocket, I would press that to the front not the back to help the direction of the opening and the hand go in with ease when worn. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching! x

[@sophiaz5999]

@@digitalpatternlibrary thank you for your insightful answer 😊 one thing I noticed is if your side seams are pressed to the back, it's a good idea to press the facing side seams to the front so there is not as much bulk!

[@ritaadler-everett5392]

Very helpful tutorial! I've learned all of the seam finishing techniques you presented, except the rolled hem. I just can't seem to keep the amount of fabric going through the curl at the same amount. Also, wouldn't it be easier if the sleeve was flat rather than already sewn? Well, you made it look very easy. Maybe I'll give it another go.🥴

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Top tip for your rolled hem issue, try a line of basting stitches within the allowance to use as a guide! Definitely keep persevering, any skill takes practice and fashion is an eternal learning journey. Thank you for watching x

[@ritaadler-everett5392]

@@digitalpatternlibrary Great tip, thank you!

[@49lucky]

Oh my goodness if I had had you as a sewing teacher I probably would have done better. I'm

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Sometimes the best lessons are self taught through trial and error, I'm sure you've excelled through your own creative process but truly appreciate your kind words! x

[@keelyjohnston19]

I hate the bias binding thing it always gets caught and wrinkles the fabric

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

I'm glad I'm not alone!

[@sylwienzik]

I also hate the bias biding gadget things! I thought it was just me so glad to see a fellow hater haha I have a question... I always try to make my garments pretty on the inside so I never use overlooker on my woven projects. But I was wondering what do the luxury high end brands do for stretch/knit garments? How are those seams finished?

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Knits ARE overlocked 😁, that's what the stitch is designed and intended for, which is why wovens are finished differently. So glad I'm not alone on those pesky things! 😅 thanks for watching x

[@india1422]

I finish my woven with the overlocker and I think it looks great

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

@india1422 ultimately, that's the only thing that matters! X

[@sylwienzik]

@@digitalpatternlibrary yeah exactly, as long as you're happy with your garment that's all that matters. I'm not a big fan of overlockers in general so I avoid them myself.

[@Kiltsnquilts]

Hate is a strong word - there are people who have disabilities or other reasons for not having the same dexterity as others.

[@Bright-It]

Simplify.

[@qxq-]

The black thread makes it look cheap.

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

I agree! But this is a toile, so I was just using up my stock as a small gesture of sustainability. It would also be harder for you to see the techniques taught if I colour matched.

[@tbyas4406]

You start out contradicting yourself and I am suppose to continue listening?

[@digitalpatternlibrary]

Not at all, scroll on by :) I start out trying to show you what an overlocked edge looks like on a woven to visually communicate the lesson and make a joke in the process. Thanks for watching x

[@joygoncalves4917]

Commenter: If you are not enjoying this - consider not watching Instead of Being Rude.