M/E Wagner Adjustable PCV Valve Basics

DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me.
Just some basics and my understanding of adjusting the M/E Wagner PCV Valve

[@edwardojr2838]

Good video man, I've had mine for a little over a year now. Did a cam swap and needed a refresher on adjusting. I was running fixed orifice mode with my previous cam, now I'm trying out the high vacuum spring. M/E Wagner is a great company and super friendly when I bought mine

[@southside1975]

i seen your comment thats why im here thanks

[@tunnelportterror]

any increase in PCV flow attained by this valve's design, by opening the orifice larger, or adjusting the spring tension, will put more blowby oil mist into the intake manifold, and dilute the air/fuel charge. IMHO, it absolutely MUST be used with a Moroso or similar oil separator, also would be a good idea even with a STOCK pcv valve ! engines were not designed to run on oil, and oil contamination leans the mixture, and also causes detonation. even the lightest amount of oil in the combustion chamber in a racing engine, will push a high compression engine into spark detonation. it's a good idea to put a vacuum in the crankcase, but not to put increased, unfiltered PCV flow into the intake manifold runners ! the ultimate system is a crank or belt driven vacuum pump, pulling on the crankcase, through an oil separator, and dumping to atmosphere, or into the header collectors- nothing into the intake manifold. I've pulled many intake manifolds in 40 years of working on cars, take a look at what the runners of an intake manifold look like with PCV attached after many years. they're coateed with a grimy layer of oil and sludge ! so, you're trying to avoid sludge in the crankcase as a selling point, and instead creating sludge in the intake manifold, and diluting the air/fuel charge with oil mist. crankcase gases were never meant to be "reburned", the engine is not a waste incinerator. that was only done by state/federal mandate in the early-mid 1960's, and from an engine standpoint, it's a bad idea. it was a political move.

[@JMAGG]

The rear of my intake keeps leaking no matter what I do. Do you think this will fix it? I have an Edelbrock pro flo 4 setup

[@mechtrician1]

Like your China wall keeps leaking? What are you using to seal it? This might help, but I find using ultra black or right stuff never leaks.

[@JMAGG]

@@mechtrician1 I'm using right stuff ultra black. And I use a real thick layer of it too. Took my intake off 3 times already and redid it. It lasts about a month and starts leaking in the back, I noticed it does it more when going past 5k Rpm. I have a 496 BBC

[@mechtrician1]

That should work well. What’s your current setup breather/PCV wise? You running either one or both?

[@JMAGG]

@@mechtrician1 both, I have one breather and one pcv valve going to my throttle body. The pcv valve is a specific one from Edelbrock that is made for the pro flo 4

[@mechtrician1]

That sounds like the correct configuration. Right stuff black is super tough. I can’t believe it would blow out from crankcase pressure. If that was the case, you should be seeing a lot of oil coming out of the breather. You cleaned the surfaces with a solvent, correct? You let the right stuff cure for 24 hours? I know it says like one hour but it doesn’t fully cure for something as thick as the China wall gap that fast. You have to let it cure. If you have that much crankcase pressure, something is up.

[@frekkledipped]

I was looking online for the Wagner valve and up comes this replica of the Wagner valve $24.99. Its called an inline valve & looks exactly like the Wagner valve. Do you know anything about it?

[@mechtrician1]

Nope. I’ve never heard of it. Probably a cheap copy though. M/E Wagner is a small American company so I am happy to do business with them. I just bought another one for another car as a matter of fact.

[@frekkledipped]

@@mechtrician1 Yeh I believe so too. Just watched your vid very well done and informative thanks. Looking forward to the day I have my 65 GTO all put together so I can run it. I will definately be installing the Wags valve. I believe some of the problem with the engine prior to me taking it out and apart is the PCV valve the oil was like mud, and it leaked all over so bad I couldnt find all the places. Good god you've replaced your main seal many times! What a pain in the __ and to think a simple thing like the PCV valve cures it, possibly. Did it stop leaking? I see the vids a year old.

[@joevalicenti2722]

7" of vacuum at idle on a street engine is really low... makes me think you don't have near enough initial ignition advance. An engine with an upgraded cam needs to have the distributor mechanical curve matched to the engine combination. Have you curved your distributor to your engine? Also, big cams don't like to struggle at idle. Idle rpm is typically best at 1000-1200.

[@mechtrician1]

With this cam, it’s basically where I’d expect the idle vacuum to be. Its 230/238@.050, .563/.580 but it’s ground on 110 centers. Not big by any means, but somewhat what I’d expect. Yes, I actually went away from my MSD probillet a year ago or so and went to an MSD DIS system to give me more flexibility for more timing at idle. I had the typical issues that you can have with mechanical advance where it would sometimes come in at idle and cause unstable idle, and with fuel injection, it would try to fight that. Going to the DIS solved all of that. I’m running 16° “initial”. With the DIS it’s just your idle timing setting. It will also stabilize by varying that number slightly. Pretty awesome system. It idles at 750 rpm incredibly smooth now.

[@MrMedicAdnan]

Few things with that setup are wrong.

[@mechtrician1]

With the PCV valve or something else? Gene Wagner reached out to me and told me I set it up perfectly.