E36 Vanos Removal

Cylinder headgasket DIY playlist: • E36 Head Gasket replac...
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[@Jrod7291]

You are a blessing to the e36 community ❤

[@sakuraFC3S]

I watched this vid maybe 6 years ago and I'm watching it again today. Still super useful!

[@whosgotmymoney3189]

saved me 660$! did it myself. you the man!!

[@M3NACE]

awesome man! good to hear.

[@mariojagger7975]

a trick : you can watch series on kaldroStream. Me and my gf have been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.

[@alileonardo6155]

@Mario Jagger Yea, I've been using KaldroStream for since december myself =)

[@elishadeshawn2599]

@Mario Jagger yup, have been watching on kaldroStream for since november myself :)

[@miatadrivers8991]

I only need my vanos to rebiuld i think i don't need to remove the timing gear than write ?

[@M3NACE]

if you only need to rebuild the unit, you dont need to disassemble the upper chain assembly. It's in there for those who are removing the cylinder head.

[@andrewloras7885]

All your videos an awesome! I didnt think i was goin to be able to do the 5 speed swap on my e36 328i i watched all your videos on it and boom its complete and running!! Now have to attempt a head gasket but with these videos should be super easy! Thanks man keep posting!!

[@M3NACE]

Good luck andrew! You got this!

[@tireg47]

Thanks for the detailed video and multiple camera shots, appreciate the step by step!

[@M3NACE]

Of course man!

[@stephenchristian5739]

ALL I CAN SAY IS ..THIS IS WHY EVERYONE HAS A CALLING & SWEET SPOT IM STICK'N TO MINE, THIS ACTUALLY HAS ME SCARED, YOU ARE A REALLY GOOD MECHANIC WELL DONE VID LEARNED A TON. PS. ALSO THE REASON I HAVE SOMEONE ELSE DO ALL THE ENGINE WORK.

[@M3NACE]

lol

[@AutoMotivate]

Dude, your videos are pretty solid

[@M3NACE]

thank you man! I try and cram as much useful info in as i can.

[@LateNightRituals]

My favorite channel for E36 on YT no cap. Idk why but ur how to vids motivate me to do stuff on my car so much. 🤝🖤

[@olivergarthwaite8908]

Another great video. I'm overhauling the Vanos on my 95' M3 with the Beisan kit and this video is a huge help. Thanks a lot, Quinn!

[@M3NACE]

of course! best of luck!

[@madscienceinc.ktm525exc2]

Felt like I watched and officially bmw training video nice

[@koreyparent7093]

I see you don't keep tension on your timing chain. Isn't it falling off the main gear a risk? How to you make sure it doesn't skip teeth when pulling the head?

[@M3NACE]

yeah so it doesn't really need to have tension on it, ive done several head jobs and the chain sits on the main gear fine, ive never heard of a chain falling off the main gear. as far as skipping teeth, I usually mark the tooth that it came off of with nail polish or a zip tie. if might skip a tooth or two, and that is why when you re-install it you need to make sure everything is timed properly, and oriented the way it needs to be.

[@xavier8548]

Wow so turns out even tho my lines matched up I wasnt at TDC the whole time, time to put it back together...woo

[@stovy8001]

Bought a timeing kit didn't come with tdc pin so I used a sharpie .

[@M3NACE]

dude send it lol

[@walters1144]

Is it necessary to remove the cam gears and chain if you're just rebuilding the vanos and not removing the head?

[@M3NACE]

no sir! you do not have to. if you are rebuilding the vanos unit itself, all you need to do is get the unit off. you do not have to remove the entire upper timing chain assembly, aside from loosening the 4 exhaust cam gear torx bolts. if you are removing the head, or removing the cams, then the whole thing needs to come off.

[@Andrei-jn7xz]

@@M3NACE do you need The timing kit to remove The vanos unit?

[@M3NACE]

@@Andrei-jn7xz it helps alot but no.

[@danielregalado9451]

What happens if the internal chain moves sprockets from the inside gear ?

[@commanderfig]

car explodes

[@seuksavanhvongsipraseuth5153]

Easy to understant and well explained!

[@chillyE30]

man great video!! going to rebuild my vanos and this really helps , thanks !

[@M3NACE]

im glad man!

[@stuffdoggg]

Why do you have to lock the flywheel with a pin ? I have a pulled s52 on an engine stand but had to remove the flywheel to put it on the engine stand so I don’t think I can lock the flywheel in tdc using the pin . There is a tdc mark for that if it moves so I can just move the crank back to that mark if needed so I’m not sure the purpose of locking the flywheel unless I’m missing something .

[@M3NACE]

its basicallly to prevent the bottom end from rotating. ive timed plenty of motors without locking it, and yeah you will be fine if you keep an eye on the TDC mark. if it moves just move it back, but ive seen people fail to see that it moved and timed their motors incorrectly. just keep an eye on it and youll be fine.

[@stuffdoggg]

M3NACE ok thanks buddy , less worry now , my first time doing a bmw engine...

[@M3NACE]

no worries man! best of luck with the build.

[@byCJeeeh]

Hey man doing this on my m52. The engine is at TDC but the cam lock tool will not sit flush. I did remove the VC studs

[@M3NACE]

try rotating the crankshaft while you are setting the cam locks on, wiggle the crank back and fourth. keep in mind the cam locks do not sit perfectly on the head but they do sit close, and the cams do not sit perfectly square inside the cam blocks. 4:34 notice how the cam locks are on, but they are not sitting perfectly with the cams or the cylinder head. as long as they prevent the cams from rotating, they are doing their job.

[@M3NACE]

it also helps to put one cam lock in at a time, and then swing the bar that connects them on after both of the cam locks are on their cams, then tighten them down. sometimes i can get them in when they are both connected, some times i have to take them apart and re-attach them when they are on the cams.

[@byCJeeeh]

I appreciate it man. We ended up using a steel bracket and washers, drilling through it to keep the locks in place

[@M3NACE]

that works too, the locks are just there to prevent the cams from moving.

[@lambo693]

Great video man! Just have a question for you, what if I have the engine on a stand and do not have a flywheel attached? Do I absolutely need to lock down the crankshaft? Thanks

[@M3NACE]

Thanks! You dont really need to, just keep an eye on it. More important for re-assembly than disassembly.

[@fatguyragus123]

So...I’m at tdc...Trying to install the cam lock and it will not align. Mine is a two piece and one side sits flush while the other side is not. Any suggestions? Trying to do the head gasket on my sons e36. Should the tool sit completely flush? On both sides?

[@M3NACE]

yes, it should sit flush. if you are removing the vanos, it might not sit completely flush. try installing the cam locks and rotating the crank back and fourth at the same time and it should sink in and sit flat. if it doesnt, dont worry. as long as the cam locks are on enough that they will prevent them from moving, they are doing the job. on the install, you want them completely flat, and it is easy to do since you can move the cams independently of eachother and the crank.

[@fatguyragus123]

M3NACE thanks for the reply. Ok- other than that I know I’m at tdc by the mark on the shoulder of the harmonic balancer but the hole in the fly wheel is not aligning for the lock pin. I have the O/T marking on the back shoulder of the pulley and three holes about 4 notches to the right on the face of the harmonic balancer.The hole in the flywheel will line up if I have the first hole aligned with the marking in the crank case. I guess I’m wondering on which set of markings to use? My #1 piston is up to the top and the cam markings are both facing up. The hole for the lock pin is also lined up when using the fist hole on the face of the balancer lines up with the timing mark on the case. Hopefully that makes sense....? It’s my first time doing a headgasket on a bmw and I don’t want to screw things up.

[@ZachKramer]

My flywheel lock pin doesn’t fit. I got the m50/52 kit. I ordered a new lock pin to double check.... Do you really need it for this job?

[@M3NACE]

its more of insurance. you dont have to use it, but make sure that the crank stays at TDC the whole time, id pull the spark plugs out just to make sure. keep an eye on it and youll be fine.

[@ZachKramer]

Thank you!

[@cya3651]

Question- Hi M3nace- I took the cylinder head of my 98 M3 S52 engine and i noticed that when i set the flywheel to TDC, ONLY the last two cam angles (back of engine) are facing 45 degree at each other, not the two front cam angles as you mentioned in the video. I was not able to clear the (E8 bolt) timing chain bolt, plus two other cylinder head bolts. I had to turn the cams until i can clear those bolts. I know the P.O had the head gasket done at bmw dealer years ago (paper work). could it be the shop did not set cams to TDC correctly when they installed? Engine ran fine all these years. Should I set the cams to TDC this time so that the two front cam angles are facing each other at 45 degrees and not the rear as it is now? Thank you for your very helpful vids...

[@M3NACE]

The crankshaft turns twice for every full rotation of the camshafts. Intake compression (one complete crank rotation) power exhaust (another complete rotation) while the camshafts only turn once for the full intake-compression-power-exhaust cycle. So you have 2 crank TDC's but only 1 True TDC with the cams also at TDC- basically you have the engine on the wrong TDC cycle. Installing the cams at true TDC on re-assembly will solve your issue. Good luck!

[@cya3651]

@@M3NACE Thank you so much for your quick response. I will set the cams to TDC So the front cam angles are facing each other 45 degrees this time. You are a lifesaver thank you….

[@buhlebethu9547]

Is there a way to take the vanos off without that round tool?

[@chipcollingwood4123]

Quinn, wish I had found your video before removing the Vanos unit from my M52. I had moved the motor to TDC in preparation to do the head gasket and I had the cams/ crank both locked. I was uninformed regarding the beveled gear and spline arrangement of the Vanos relationship to the cam. Thus I pulled the unit off without using the sprocket tool. What if any damage may I have done to the unit...I was intending on rebuilding it as my 528i has over 100k on it. Thanks for your input.

[@M3NACE]

Unlikely it is damaged, unless you visually have broken / damaged teeth.

[@chipcollingwood4123]

@@M3NACE Good to hear, nothing like that and it seems to still have a fair seal to the case, but I believe doing the seal replacement would be prudent...I'll keep you posted. Hoping for a good outcome. All ellse is going smoothly. we'll see what the pressure test of the cylinder head reveals this week. Thanks for the great vids

[@justkeen18]

it's clear that you need to drain the coolant do you need to drain the oil also?

[@M3NACE]

If you want to, you can get away without draining it.

[@peteragapoglou6608]

Thorough and clear. A lot of videos are far too wordy to be helpful.

[@M3NACE]

thank you man!

[@jarrettschoenfeldt608]

Why was thus so entertaining

[@peted2331]

Awesome video. Found the flywheel lock hole.. im just second guessing myself if it went in all the way! The pin went in about a couple inches is that cool?

[@M3NACE]

Yup! It doesnt go in that far.

[@peted2331]

@@M3NACE thx man

[@krystophm1730]

Stuff rags in underneath the vanos sprockets when removing....no reason to panic about losing your nuts Edit: after watching for 5 more minutes...the man says to do just that

[@jeffbernyard7686]

Hey big guy, are the timing tools necessary if you’re just resealing the vanos unit with the o rings? Thanks

[@M3NACE]

Yes, you need them to remove and install the unit.

[@maatu_boe]

Definitely not necessary... They are used just to make sure u dont knock off the timing. But just dont touch the cams or anything that would move timing and youre good... Many people have done these without the locking tools. I did a headgasket job without locking tools...

[@holdthedoor3782]

what if you don't have your intake manifold removed though?

[@M3NACE]

you do not need to have the intake manifold off to remove the vanos. you just need to have the front end of the cooling system off for space. my intake manifold was off because I was pulling the cylinder head off. that being said, you can absolutely install and remove vanos with the manifold on

[@holdthedoor3782]

thanks! so if i left the manifold on, would i have to get under the car to access the locking pin hole?

[@M3NACE]

you can access it from underneath the car yes. its right underneath the starter. kind of hard to see it when your under there but if you know where it is its easy to find with your hands.

[@siharkarwan]

Wow, really nice video. I've searched a lot and finally found this. He does not miss a step,very clear and easy to fallow.🎉🎉

[@BmwMe-uh9sy]

which exhaust is that screaming beamer in intro

[@M3NACE]

lol its a cat back straight piped- S52

[@jonathonlall8729]

Hey man, idk if i missed it, but did you ever actually use the tensioner tool? Thanks!

[@M3NACE]

Jonathon Lall on the teardown no, it is only needed for installing vanos. Good question man!

[@jonathonlall8729]

Ah, so I will need it. Should've watched the reassembly first. Thanks again!

[@M3NACE]

Jonathon Lall no problem man! Kind of stupid the kits no longer come with them. I bought mine 4 years ago ish and they all had the dummy tensioner tools.

[@andrenicolaas4937]

can you tell me i have a m52 323i e36 the salinoid does it connect on the end of the fuel rail, apparently you got 2 shorts of harness, (Y harness ) and n harness where your salinoid connect to fuel rail is this true ?

[@SuperSatturno]

Thanks so much !!!!!

[@docteurtwin]

Thanks

[@Miss9272]

Really informative thanks. I have an error code of 49 on a e36 2.5 petrol ac schnitzer any idea what it could be. Replaced abs relay as suggested on few forums but still light on dash. Thankyou

[@M3NACE]

are you sure the relay you replaced it with is working?

[@Miss9272]

M3NACE it was a brand new part from bmw showroom.

[@Miss9272]

New wheel bearings fitted abs sensors cleaned new brake pads and discs also new brake lines and system bleed. Error code 49 is solonoid valves power supply. Beginning to think its the vanos?

[@M3NACE]

vanos? what is the whole code? i thought it was an ABS code?

[@Miss9272]

M3NACE it is an abs code but apparently its to do with the vanos aswell? I'm no car mechanic only motorbike. Hence why I thought I would ask you.

[@BCaTTenterprises]

got the flywheel lock pin in at tdc..thanks again man

[@M3NACE]

good to hear man! im glad it helped.

[@redjstc9123]

Nice video man!!! Thanks... do you have a video installing that catchoil

[@ZachKramer]

Do you drain oil for this job? Obviously after you have a few times within 50 miles. But what about during the job?

[@M3NACE]

If your just doing the vanos i dont think you would need to, every time ive taken off the vanos was because i was pulling the cylinder head or tearing down the motor, and for that you do need to drain the oil. Im sure you could get away with not draining if your just rebuilding the vanos.

[@ZachKramer]

I am actually doing head gasket. When should I drain oil?

[@M3NACE]

@@ZachKramer i would drain the oil after the head is off

[@ZachKramer]

Thank you!

[@M3NACE]

of course man!

[@garageday7020]

Doing this on my e36 325i thanks for the quality tutorials! 👍

[@miatadrivers8991]

hi how do you do it on and older model e36 325i i do not have the hole for the hex key so how do i hold my tension down?

[@clicclikeifyouup7153]

I'm going to be doing a head gasket on my 1998 E36 328i and I found this video super useful! Although I have a question, my car has an external head gasket leak so I've decided before I start commuting to school again I should tackle the leaky head gasket. So my question is what would you recommend replacing while you're in there (I've already purchased a Genuine BMW head gasket kit through ECS Tuning, ARP head studs, and Dr Vanos racing upper timing chain) but is it really necessary to replace timing chain tensioners, timing chain guides, and a lower chain or is it something that isn't too prone to failure to justify replacing? Any input is appreciated! (obviously if anything breaks I'll replace it)

[@M3NACE]

as far as internal parts go, I think as long as they are not broken or cracked, they are fine to re-use. if you are having vanos rattle issues or lifter tick issues, now would be the time to address them. the thing i would be on top of are parts that tend to fail. the rotating assembly on m52/s52's are pretty stout and problem free besides their headgaskets (which most time is at fault due to cooling system issues) so thermostat, waterpump, new upper and lower hoses will be super easy to replace while doing this job. some other things would be parts that are a bitch to replace down the line, for instance replacing your starter, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, rear heater core coolant hoses, if you have any power steering leaks, you will have instant access to all of these parts usually buried underneath the manifold and intake system would be key to replace. the only components I would but strain on replacing are the starter and the rear heater core hoses. you can get away with changing a crank and cam sensor without pulling the manifold, but the hoses and starter you cannot. check out my DIY series for the headgasket job: kzbin.info/aero/PLVaxrCrxn-sHrFspvtuoBSO9Bk-Rs97cK the series is not complete yet, but if you get stuck some of the videos might help you out. let me know if you have any other questions, I would be happy to answer,

[@clicclikeifyouup7153]

Thanks for the reply! I've already done basically the whole cooling system, Mishimoto silicone upper and lower radiator hoses, Mishimoto full aluminum radiator, Stewart racing high flow water pump, fan clutch delete, metal thermostat housing, cooler 80 degree thermostat. I'm also no stranger to removing the intake manifold as I now have a M50 manifold running the Bimmerworld adapter kit. I also did a transmission overhaul job like a month ago as a result of replacing a leaky slave with a new slave that happened to be defective basically when my friends and I threw the new slave cylinder on I pushed the clutch pedal in to start the bleeding process and it basically exploded and all the pieces of the slave cylinder fell into my transmissions bell housing so I had to remove my trans and while I was in there I threw in a the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, pressure plate, detent shift pin kit, flex disc, akg polyurethane trans mounts. So I was able to look at my starter while doing the trans overhaul and was able to tell its been replaced at some point as its a 325i style starter and not the 328i style. Another question I have is, is it true that you to go through and remove the oil pan in order to replace the lower timing chain?

[@itslawrencedood]

I have an m52 with s52 cam gears (previous owner installed) and I'm assuming the timing is off because even when the crank is at tdc the cams aren't facing each other, would it be okay to remove the vanos anyway and do the timing from scratch? (removing everything to replace the head gasket)

[@M3NACE]

Check your TDC. it sounds like you are 360 crank degrees out. If the cam lobes are facing down and away you need to rotate the crank 360 again. The S52 cam gears and M52 cam gears are exactly the same. You will need to remove and re-time the motor anyway if you are removing the cylinder head.

[@itslawrencedood]

M3NACE thanks for getting back to me so soon, but I’ve given it full rotations many times and they land in the same place every single time, at this point I just want to put the cam blocks on and proceed with the removal but I don’t know if that would mess something up

[@M3NACE]

@@itslawrencedood i would just set the crank to TDC then start taking stuff apart. You will figure it out on the install lol

[@itslawrencedood]

@@M3NACE do you think it'd be okay to remove the vanos if the crank isn't at tdc, cant get the cam locks on without the lobes on cyl 1 pointing towards each other

[@M3NACE]

@@itslawrencedood as long as you are not forcing a valve onto the piston, you can take it off in any way. as long as you can lock the cams down. Removing the vanos without the cam locks is a PITA. just make sure to set the crank and the cams at TDC for install.

[@kailubhavens2173]

So I have a m50 without vanos. Do I skip all of this?

[@williamwalters9403]

Why do I watch videos that I'm not doing a job on?

[@M3NACE]

Shhhh dont question it😶

[@williamwalters9403]

@@M3NACE right!

[@ryanboucher701]

Hey solid video. I’m in the process of tearing my m50 down and was wondering were you got your tool kit from. I’ve been looking but can’t find one with the dummy tensioner included

[@M3NACE]

thanks man! i got mine off of ebay, but I cant find the link. weird how they dont come with the tensioner, as mine did. looks like you might have to grab it separately, this one is only $25- www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Tool-M50-M52-M54/222720999549?hash=item33db34c07d:g:8Z4AAOSwUYNaDLN-

[@daniels6624]

Thanks for the video! Quick question; if I am changing just the intake cam, Do you think can I leave alone the main tensioner, sprocket, chain and exhaust cam?

[@M3NACE]

You should be able to, although you will still need to remove the main tensioner to install the dummy tensioner tool to corretly install the vanos.

[@mylesbourbon9948]

Just used a magnet to get off that back intake plate. Worked perfectly and relieved a lot of frustration

[@seasideboys9534]

love your videos dude!!!

[@M3NACE]

thanks man! I appreciate it.

[@drewmartinez424]

so my timing is off by one or 2 teeth and cannot get the same alignment tool on, how would i go about dealing with this? should i continue with the vanoss removal without the tool? can i rotate the cam into TDC?

[@M3NACE]

Both cams off or just 1 cam? If it’s both cams, then loosen the exhaust cam gear and set the cams and crank back at TDC, then re-tension the chain assembly on the side of the head, then re-tighten the exhaust gear then check timing again.

[@drewmartinez424]

@@M3NACE my exhaust cam is pretty spot on, my intake cam is the one thats off. do i still go about it the same way?

[@M3NACE]

@@drewmartinez424 yes, loosen the exhaust cam and press the intake back to TDC and re-tighten then re-check

[@drewmartinez424]

bare with me here i just want to make sure im doing this correctly, i backed off the main chain tensioner, loosened the exhaust cam gear (torx) aligned the crank pulley and intake cam to tdc. torqued down my main tensioner, now i can go about doing the vanoss unit correct?

[@drewmartinez424]

and i really appreciate you replying so fast and being very helpful man :)

[@paulmorris1834]

Do you need to take off the intake manifold off to insert the flywheel locking pin?

[@M3NACE]

Paul Morris you do not need to, but you will have to access it from underneath that way.

[@angelboy2016]

I've got offered a vanos kit but it doesn't include the dummy chain tensionr!? Is alright if I don't have it and would I need on changing the head gasket prosses? Thanks

[@M3NACE]

yeah, the chain tensioner tool is vital to installing the vanos unit. the main timing chain needs to be taught when you tighten the upper chain. however, you can get around using the tool. myBimmerSpace talks about this, he pulls his tensioner aparta and replaces the spring with coins and it should work the same in theory, I however have not done it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGTNiXueoNWJlas

[@angelboy2016]

Thanks a lot. upload more videos please :)

[@M3NACE]

no problem, im working on it;)

[@CCROSS5882]

easy to follow! great vid

[@garybrown6776]

I'm pretty sure I'm at TDC but my tdc pin didn't seem to slide in as far as yours. Just how far should it slide in?

[@M3NACE]

it should slide in a bit, then again i have an aftermarket flywheel which might allow it to slide in further. you could try wiggling the crank with the 22mm while inserting the lockpin, howver its not really about how far the lock pin goes it. if the lockpin is in, doesnt matter how far, and you cannot move the crankshaft with the 22mm, then the lockpin is doing its job. as long as you cant rotate the crank, its fine

[@garybrown6776]

Thanks, i did finally get it to go in. I actually was not @ TDC. I actually got the cam shaft lock to sit flush but now I'm not at TDC. Any advice?

[@M3NACE]

I would check that the crank is actually at TDC. look on the ring on the front of the motor and check the timing marks. do you think its possible the motor is off-time? also, try putting the cam locks on one at a time and then swing the arm around after they are on the cams to lock them in place.

[@garybrown6776]

everything lines up as explained in your video. the pin slid into the fly wheel but the cam lock is not even close. It ran fine and never seem to have any timing problems. One cam lock is much higher than the other and can't be swung around.

[@M3NACE]

gary brown hmm. That seems weird. Are you removing the cylinder head or just working on the vanos? I would pull the spark plug for cylinder 1 and take a flash light and look down the cylinder, and as your looking down rotate the crank and make sure that the piston is at the top of its stroke