Calibrating digital negatives for alternative printing part 2

This is the second part of my video to show how to calibrate the digital negatives for making Palladium (and indeed any other printing technique) prints either from digital originals or from scanned negatives.
This video stops a little abruptly, I ran up against the 20 minute limit for my D800, but I think you get everything that I intended, except for the thanks for taking the time to watch!
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[@olafwDE]

Watching this in 2020. Thank you for taking the time to provide this highly professional content. This applies not only to this specific video but for everything I've watched from your channel so far.

[@DaveJSmith]

Hello Olaf Many thanks for those kind words, much appreciated. What process are you working in? Dave

[@olafwDE]

@@DaveJSmith Hello Dave, thank you for your reply, only a few channel owners would care for older videos like you do. The first first professional job I've started with was reproduction photographer in pre-print. Now I'm coming back to film photography, and I miss handy tools like a densitometer, so your calibration tutorials are very helpful in order to re-activating the nifty details of a reproducible workflow. It's mainly vanilla b&w right now, based on zone system. Next step will be carbon transfer printing, both in monochrome and colour. That's why I'm watching videos like yours, and some extra adjustments to my apartment are already in the making. One new thing I've learned from your videos is the use of colour for blocking UV effectively. Nobody else does mention that here on KZbin, afaik. Are black and grey inks less effective then? I also get the impression that my initial plan on contact-printing 8x10 negatives directly won't work because I would need to shoot / process them in a manner that would render them useless for normal b&w wet prints..? I was hoping to avoid the digital workflow parts, but if inkjet printing is easier than producing internegatives I'll incorporate it, hence maybe safe me some pricey large format gear. I'm going to get me some books and study the details. Are you planning on related book reviews any time soon? Some recommendations, especially on out of print and antiquarian books, might make for an interesting video and would be very welcome. Cheers Olaf

[@DaveJSmith]

@@olafwDE Hello Again. That is a very interesting photographic career. Yes, black and grey inks are less effective UV blockers, if you print an HSB colour tablet and try it then you will see it clearly. The big advantage of having a hybrid system producing enlarged negatives digitally is that the availabiity of materials is likely to be more stable in the future. Though I do think that they are easier to produce. Pixel peepers talk about seeing the dither pattern etc but I don't see it and certainly not at normal viewing distances! As for books then Platinum & Palladium printing by Dick Arentz was a good source for me as was Peter Mrhars book on Digital negatives (I cant recommend other similar systems having tried them all, though QTR system is good though complex if you use Epson printers) Check out the ink sets available from John Cone, I haven't used them but will likely change to them in the near future. Good luck Dave

[@olafwDE]

@@DaveJSmith Thank you very much for all the details, I will now order these two books.