MACHINE SHOP TIPS

[@astaschak]

The dro I have at work on my mill is a 3 axis one and it'll even do bolt circles for you. It's a pretty fancy rig. It even goes down to a tenth of a thousandth. Now my mill is way to wore out to keep consistant cuts at that accuracy lol. The boss needs to have it sent out and completely re done. I just don't know how to use all of its functions haha. No one at work really does actually. It was bought at an auction.

[@Patroand]

SURPRISE, SURPRISE, again you surprise us with a new technique. This is great because you will show us different methods for doing that kind of operation. Thank you so much. And show our respect to Tubalcain 😉

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for continuous encouragement.

[@ccook64]

Just wanted to drop you a line and say how much I enjoy your videos!! Growing up I thought I wanted to be a machinist but ended up being a chemist instead. Our next door neighbor was an excellent "old school" machinist. He was retired and had an old 13" South Bend lathe from the late 40s. We spent a lot of time in my father's carpenters shop were the lathe was set up. The last "project" he assigned me was to make a plumb bob and your video on this really brought back fond memories. Keep up the great work and give my regards to Tubal Cain, Jr.

[@mrpete222]

THANK YOU & I will.

[@CompEdgeX2013]

I agree with you Mr Pete, spokes look "authentic". Not that a nicely made machined wheel looks bad but the spokes are nicer. Looking forward to the next in the series. :-) Colin

[@rootpass74]

Great videos. Really enjoy learning from you Mr. Pete.

[@Panzerzimmerpflanze]

Absolutely great video - I'm learning tons of stuff from your videos, very much appreciated.

[@wyattoneable]

Outstanding instructions and the results are quite impressive.

[@dannyh7908]

You have a good eye, finished product looks great.

[@mrpete222]

+Danny H THANKS FOR WATCHING

[@bradapprentice1397]

Looking forward to the next episode of “Bolt Circles” by Tubalcain. Kind Regards, Brad

[@jimliechty2983]

Thanks!.....I'm just doing my first DRO install on my mill, so I'm looking forward to be able to do some operations relying on coordinates

[@reconteamohio]

Another great one, Thank you for posting,

[@TT-qo9dv]

I like watching your vids. I run external grinders and can appreciate your work. Thanks

[@Karebear9001]

Nice video as always! Keep up the good work. I just got my first steam engine kit and am enjoying putting it together.

[@timr31908]

Hi Tubal "Your right there at the top of people doing machine shop practic or how to do's.Ive watched lots of your videos and like them all.I have a nice little machine shop and im into old engines and farm tractor and i must have about a 100 or more hit and miss engines .I have built a hand full of minature gas engines all my own design and it seems you are alot like me and have all the same stuff right down to the gravelys.....We are the true amercans

[@mrpete222]

Sounds like you're my kind of man.. Very smilar

[@foothillstrailhiker2426]

Awesome video! Thanks for sharing the bolt circle on a DRO. I want to see the video for the spill proof cutting oil can.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching

[@CactusforceX]

was hoping to see some trig here to make sure I'm getting it right!, that website looks a bit quicker though. great video, fascinating stuff

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Getting my 5/8 keyless chuck for the mill was money well spent 👍

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@wiav8r]

Neat video MrPete. Thank You!

[@chrischapman8000]

Love that oil can ! Nice vid Pete Lot of bit changing ,BUT the bed is locked for each operation so past comments made are a bit harsh Chris C

[@KeithDDowning]

X on DRO appears to be swapped. Numbers to the right of 0 need to be + and to the left need to be -. But you work with the setup you have. Another good one Tubalcain.

[@danielguerrero4336]

Do you not like indexing chucks for the mill? I've had one that really worked well. Just changing a gear plate for how many holes you plan to drill. Then you just need to know distance from edge to hole center. Great for flange bolt patterns.

[@mrpete222]

YES I DO.

[@DanuAl-FLY]

Happy Easter !!!

[@fall22123]

I've always thought basic right angle trig and the Pythagorean Theorem are something every machinist should know how to do. Most blueprints for major manufacturers use true position to tolerance hole locations. You need to know the PT to figure out if your holes are on position or not. Then trig also has many uses, too many to mention.

[@tortrodz]

Enjoyed your video and learned something. Thank you for all of your videos. Later

[@NevinWilliams71]

is moving the table's position with digital controls a lot more trouble than it seems to appear...? I'd be inclined to drill all 6 holes before changing bits, due to the precision the digital unit seems to convey... I could see how one wouldn't want to move and verify the table manually 18 times...

[@Samsgarden]

Hey you did a link Tubalcain. Excellent!

[@n6jwp]

After watching this, I was thinking of a different tool changing process. I would think it would be easier to center drill all 6 holes, then change to the 3/16 drill, drill all six holes and so on. My thinking is less tool changing, but you have to reposition the part more, and that there is a higher chance of error. But the DRO should eliminate that error. Mr Pete, what are your thoughts?

[@mrpete222]

6 of 1 , half a dozen of the other.

[@n6jwp]

mrpete222 Good to know that there are more than 1 way to skin a cat.

[@chrisstephens6673]

By using a stub length drill, the Slocombe (centre) drill is a bit superfluous so you can save one round of tool changing. I am in the drill all one size before changing the drill camp, but whatever it takes to get the job done is the right way, right?.

[@FinalAnimus]

For bolt holes I always just decide how many I want, divide 360 by that number to get the angles between each one, then decide where I want my holes at each of those points. then calculating is just simple trig.

[@bluehornet6752]

Would it have been preferable to cut the recess(es) before milling the holes? Seems that you could avoid all the interrupted cutting on the lathe--although maybe that's not so much of an issue?

[@jamiebuckley1769]

ithought the same thing tom b.

[@lms6201]

he,s primarily showing methods of bolt hole centers more than turning methods

[@robertlee2775]

Keep them coming

[@Zakardis]

The other day Jay Leno was showing off his 1925 Doble steam car, the gas cap filler lid was held on with a circle of 13 screws... "because Rolls Royce only had 12". 6 looks good.

[@TinkeringJohn]

At first, I wondered why the computer program asked for the diameter of the holes since you only need to locate the centers. You could make the holes any size. Then it occurred to me that the program may give you an error if it determines that the holes would touch or overlap each other which would cause the center hub of the flywheel to fall out. You could make the holes different sizes (i.e. alternate between 2 size holes) as long as the flywheel stays in balance.

[@x1144]

Why not turn the recess first so you don't have an interrupted cut and you can chamfer when on the mill?

[@danbreyfogle8486]

I think nearly every machinist I watch on here talks about their DRO, certainly that has made some methods quicker to set-up. Now off to part 2, You Tube suggested I start at part 4, they must not have like parts 1 through 3, grin....

[@iiinsaiii]

Nice work like always.

[@robertgad3269]

Just curious (#1): Is there a reason why you did all three operations of each hole before moving to the next hole? Perhaps displaying my ignorance, I would have done the starter holes on all six holes and then the pilot holes on all six holes, and so forth. I'm guessing there is no issue with trusting the repeatability of the DRO (and, in any event, the subsequent bores would all naturally center on the prior ones, no?). And just curious (#2): in the absence of a DRO, would the dials on the table handwheels be accurate enough for the coordinate method?

[@lms6201]

2 reasons , easier to change tooling than coordinates, and yes all systems have some tolerances

[@kycoalminer35]

good morning mr pete. Idea, when you were talking about the spill proof oil can, how about putting a link in the about section. Now i have to search it.

[@mrpete222]

Don't know how.

[@kycoalminer35]

I don't either. KZbin needs a tutorial site, lol. But that idea could get you more views.

[@Guds777]

Mr Pete, if you go to your videos and click video manager, and go to a specific video, then in about section there is a logo of a pen in the right upper corner, push it and then you can edit about text...

[@MrGoosePit]

Wondering how you would go about drilling a set screw in that. I'm not a machinist, so I have no clue. I see how you could have done it on the spoked flywheels, but can't figure out how you would do it with the short shouldered hub on the this one.

[@fuzzy1dk]

put it at an angle?

[@MrGoosePit]

Lasse Langwadt Christensen I went back and watched the video again. At about 13:42 he explains how to do it. I wonder if he then plugs up the access hole with silver solder or some other kind of metal?

[@mikeadrover5173]

Mr. Pete I think I have asked this question before do-you sell your steam/air engines? I doubt if you remember but I would like to make one out of wood, and I need a prototype to make it. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~

[@mrpete222]

Hi Mike. sorry, do not sell

[@andymandyandsheba4571]

looks good Tublalcain i always enjoy watching your videos i watch the oil can video that chicken in a tin must taste pretty bad does it keep up with the great videos

[@one4stevo]

Thanks for sharing, Could one mill out spokes, instead of holes?

[@colt4667]

One of the earliest issues of "Home Shop Machinist" shows how to mill out a spoked flywheel. The spokes are curved - not straight. I think the article was by Philip Duclos. Are you familiar with Village Press and their publications?

[@kleinesmaenchen]

You would probably have to use a CNC machine for that since the inner contour would be something like a pie shape. Also most spokes have some sort of profile to them.

[@kleinesmaenchen]

ajju poku I know it is possible but IMO the effort is way to much for what you get in the end.

[@kleinesmaenchen]

ajju poku It sure is possible and using a rotary table is probably the only way to do that.

[@FredMiller]

I really do like the look of your modified flywheel. I will be modifying the flywheel on the 8" engine I made this winter. But only after watching your series on hole indexing. Here is a link to the engine before I modify it. > My second larger Steam enigne

[@rescobar8572]

Mr. Pete, did you cast those 6 spoke flywheels yourself?

[@mrpete222]

Yes--shown in another video

[@danielguerrero4336]

Hey mrpete222 have you seen the new Noah movie. If so, what's your take on how Tubalcain was portrayed?

[@mrpete222]

Have not.

[@maxhammontree3169]

Looks good

[@brianswan3559]

Excellent.

[@kevCarrico]

holy cow... another AMAZING VIDEO!!! yet a slight error in saying a flywheel's mass is best served on the outer edge -- *total* mass of the flywheel is all that matters. spokes of any type, and any other machining (that removes material and takes away mass) are simply concerns for aesthetics, ability to construct (for example, on a very large scale such as a steamship) and overall material cost savings. simply put, the more mass in motion the better -- at the hub or on the periphery, it does not matter -- and removing any mass between might look better, but it can severely degrade the flywheel's main function: that of established inertia/stored energy.

[@jayphilipwilliams]

+KevCarrico Ol' Tubal Cain was right and you are wrong, Kev. The farther away from the center the mass is, the greater the moment of inertia of the rotating mass. Look up "angular momentum."

[@kevCarrico]

with a fixed diameter, not at the sake of removing material from the total mass (creating decorative spokes, etc.)

[@skkkannan81]

I like that machines videos

[@mrpete222]

🤙🤙🤙

[@robertkutz9540]

nice work i like

[@68sweetnovember]

excellent

[@renbooth4147]

excellence work!!

[@MrJohnnaz]

Center drill with the Mill, use the Drill Press for the other hole drilling operations. Almost as accurate and saves a bunch of drill changes. What ever works, I guess, always more than one way to skin a Cat.

[@mrpete222]

Yes-I often do that--much faster

[@ponkkaa]

The hole version looks more Hi Tech. The spokes give it a rustic look.

[@stephenc6256]

At work if I am on a machine that does not have the a built in PCD function on the DRO I use a Zeus Book www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Reference-Drawing-Toolroom-Workshop/dp/B0000CLZUO there is a a chart with Co-ordinate Constance you just multiply by the diameter. In England we say PCD Pitch Circle Diameter

[@AJKandK]

You're going to confuse some people with your flipped "X" coordinates T.C. I’m guessing you must have a backwards mounted scale causing the reversal. If you want your machine to be backwards from all others in this solar system I’m OK with it but you must flip both the “X” and “Y” axes in order to maintain proper relationships within the Axis trinity. If moving to the left is "X" plus then "Y" plus must be toward you. I suppose maybe you flipped "X" and "Z" which keeps the system in check but would just be too bizarre for any person to do. Everyone please reference the right hand rule if you need to its OK. Mr. Cartesian C. System would not be happy with what you have done to his magnum opus. Moving on. I’m not sure if you were aware of this but the Machinery’s Handbook also has the constant tables for calculating the coordinates of bolt circles. It’s in the Jig Boring section for those who may care. It looks like the web program is the better way to go these days. A little trivia to add, for a long time, though not sure it’s still the case, the table diagrams in the Mach. Handbook showed the “Y” directions flipped.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

If you look carefully, the table is actually moved in a negative/minus X and/or Y directions, despite the move on the material being positive/plus! I thought about it for a while. Mr Pete is 100% correct!

[@Kalkaekie]

Interesting !!

[@joe-blow1613]

HOW Abought if you have back lash?

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Rely on the DRO to get you to the correct position after you turn the handle to remove the backlash. It should have no effect on reaching your final position.

[@jamiebuckley1769]

the dro does not recognise backlash it only recognizes movement.

[@TommiHonkonen]

The cast ones look way better. And I like CNC machining better

[@n6jwp]

But what about those who don't have a cast part or a CNC?

[@TommiHonkonen]

They do it how they do it. And I don't personally do flywheels (or steam engines) I just like the looks better with the cast. And I don't have cnc machine either, I am a cnc machinist, so I operate other peoples cnc to make other peoples parts. Not that steam engines wasn't a great hobby and I would like to own some cnc myself.

[@scottd692]

You really need to get the directions for your DRO and fix the coordinate + - . To he right of center is X+ left is X -. Away from center or bringing the table towards you is Y+

[@jayphilipwilliams]

Not to split hairs, but this really doesn't have anything to do with DROs. The same technique could be done with just the dials on the tables. It's easier with a DRO, of course, but a DRO isn't necessary to use this technique.

[@larryrobinson7492]

Not sure how you got by with that for a year or more....LOL. What you are saying is only true if you have 0 backlash in your machine, which I know is impossible.

[@philoupaulo]

18 times changing tools... It can be made 3 times changing

[@ksb2112]

Yes, but it's a trade off. You will then have to reposition the table 18 times. My guess is that it takes less time to change the tool than to do the repositioning.

[@serkankazak5471]

teach me master

[@BUILDNIGHT]

Remember your Cartesian Graphs! FIX that DRO! Your +/- X directions are reversed!

[@mrpete222]

How do you reverse it?

[@BUILDNIGHT]

mrpete222 depending on the brand of your DRO, you should be able to go into the SETUP of the DRO Screen and change the +/- Directions of any Axis. It appears that only your X Axis is backwards. The Y looks correct. On SINO brand DRO’s, you turn Power ON and press/hold the DECIMAL KEY immediately to enter the SETUP SCREEN. Then ARROW DOWN to select the Axis to change. If its on ZERO, then change to ONE. or vice versa

[@BUILDNIGHT]

www.acu-rite.com/pdf/Vue_Change_Count_Direction-pn.pdf

[@MRDAbob22086]

You should really do it yourself with a calculator at least equal space holes are always right triangles