Machine your own Low Profile Slitting Saw Arbor

This video shows one of many designs for a low clearance slitting saw arbor you can make yourself, and have forever.
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedinnovationsllc.com
Web Store: www.advancedinnovationsllc.co...

[@joepie221]

A similar build by Matthew Perlman Check out his version kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3aamXuebp2UeLc

[@bokkievatikaki5676]

It is much easier to follow Joe as he explains it much better even with auto focus issues.

[@feez357]

I call that "taking the high road" pinning a video from a guy with 40 subscribers because he's upset. I had recently made my own arbor and probably stumbled across this video because of my search history for the damn blade.

[@coreycupps3130]

Matthew was “F’in pissed”, (his words) he said you copied his arbor, think plagiarized was the word he used. It’s a freaking arbor for heaven’s sake, what is that dudes problem? Great build, keep ‘em coming Joe P

[@chriswest5209]

@@bokkievatikaki5676 😊

[@PeterWMeek]

One of those things that are obvious AFTER you see it done: The head of the cap screw can go INSIDE the bore of the tool. Thanks.

[@cullenpurkis4593]

You give excellent info Joe, and I thank you. So here's a tip for you: I use Heat treatment quenching oil as a cutting lubricant. It is designed to have a extremely high flash point so it doesn't smoke when you cut with it. I get it from Brownells and it keeps my basement shop smoke free.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Good design! What I like to use as a material for the shank is case hardened linear shaft, it comes fairly straight and nicely centerless ground.

[@paulpfeifferjr6054]

JOE PIE--this comment does NOT go with this video. Your technique for setting an ACCURATE angle on the lathe cross slide is second to none ! A little bit fiddly, but so accurate, and REPEATABLE ! Thank you x 3 Paul P

[@joepie221]

Thank you. I've worked for some very fussy inspectors. Had to stay one step ahead of them. :)

[@zumbazumba1]

What a great tool holder! Well there is a one advantage lets call it if you put long screw from back and make threads inside the cap.You can put a tailstock center if you are going to use a slitting saw on the lathe.That way you get rigid setup. I know,i know slitting saws arent exactly a lathe tool but beggars cant be choosers and if you got milling attachment its a tool you can use if you are too poor to afford milling machine.

[@charles1379]

very much appreciated especially pointing out the technical issues of what to look out for. - like the square inside corner at the seat of the saw blade and how you overcome the issue. great work.

[@jimad]

I never knew the slitting saws were hollow ground. I was gifted a bunch of them by the widow of a wonderful machinist, and I've always taken baby cuts fearing a binding accident. Makes my day to learn this!

[@sharg0]

But be careful so you don't have any closing forces on the part! (And they are still rather sensitive.)

[@johnantliff]

I'm really glad you made that comment at 3:45 about "chewing sounds". Despite making very accurate arbors ALL of my slitting saws run eccentrically. I suspect the manufacturers are not as careful as we are, tolerance wise, when they grind them! I'll make another one just to see if I can eliminate that effect. Cheers from NZ - your videos are the ultimate mentoring program for us hobbyists.

[@alexvonbosse5090]

I have several slitting saws that are awaiting a new arbor! Thanks for sharing and keep up your great work!

[@johnbladen4931]

Thank You again Joe. I have to machine up an new arbor, for a new design I'm working on, and this Arbor design, will be a major help to me with this job. Just a Dumb Question from me Joe, I'm a 64 year old, that has worked in my trade (Mechanical Fitter-Machinist (manual), etc), all of my working career. I have noticed on a number of occasions in your Great videos, that when you are using a Centre Drill, to start a hole in material, that you drill into the material, so that the Tapered/Beveled section that the centre drill hole makes, is larger in diameter, than the diameter of the following twist drill (see at 7 Minutes and 10 Seconds, in the above video). I remember back to the mid 1970's, where my Tech Teacher (Mr John Saunders), told me to ensure that the tapered section of the centre drill hole diameter, should be smaller than the following twist drill? Have things changed over the years, or does it make no real difference? Best regards, JB, Australia.

[@joepie221]

I do that to eliminate the need to chamfer the hole when I'm done. I let the tapered part of the centerdrill do it for me before the hole ever begins. I do it for threaded holes as well.

[@thingmaker3]

Thank you, Joe! This is exactly what I was searching for for a hobby project! It's awesome that pros like you are willing to share this kind of thing.

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

Thanks joe another really informative video that just outlines i need to make one for my bank of tools. Thankyou for adding to my knowledge base too

[@jameslezak8179]

Another great video, Joe. Covers all the bases, no radius inside corners, using the larger cap screw, perfect. Thanks for your time!

[@darkhorsestudios76]

I've been watching your videos for years, and as usual, another great project Joe . There are so many people out there making videos regarding "machine shop tools/builds/how to's etc. yet only a few are good educators as well. Its a whole new level if you can put your content across in such a way that enables absolutely anyone to be able to understand what you're doing and what you're talking about.

[@DCFusor]

Sweet one - I need to make one of these myself. Thanks for taking the extra effort to do high fidelity voiceovers. They really make these videos more enjoyable.

[@johncoulter9287]

You’re very talented at what you do Joe. I really appreciate your videos. Thank You.

[@garthbutton699]

Without a doubt I have learned more tips and tricks from you Joe,thank you for sharing your craft🤗

[@BOBB1947]

That is a really nice arbor! Thanks so much for showing it to us. Another project added to the to do list.

[@rexmyers991]

I can’t wait to get started on an arbor for my slitting saw. Thanks for the details on the creation.

[@patrickcolahan7499]

Very cool, always enjoy watching your videos and the explanations that you provide. Thank you.

[@fredgenius]

Perfect timing! I was just thinking about making something along those lines! Thanks Joe, given me some ideas...

[@jeffanderson1653]

Well done! Perfectly executed. I like the low profile too

[@bostedtap8399]

Useful addition to anyone's shop. Thanks for sharing.

[@michaelbush2905]

Just made one over the weekend and found this vid. Came out great ! Thank you.

[@joepie221]

Glad it helped!

[@johndevries8759]

I like how the low profile is attained by sliding the cutting blade arbor OD into the main arbor ID. This makes it robust and usable with varying thicknesses of cutting blades. Nice design, Thanks for sharing.

[@michaelcoceski5442]

Another great lecture. Thanx Joe. All the best.

[@timmer9lives]

Love your videos Joe. Almost every time I use a slitting saw the nut is always in the way. Watching this build, it occurs to me that my level of “ machinist “ knowledge is very limited. Turning wrenches for cars... I got that. But machinist, I’m just a rookie. Anyway, that’s why I always respect any skilled craftsmen that truly knows their trade. You sir, KNOW YOUR TRADE !!

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I enjoy what I do.

[@715bambam]

No Joe, We enjoy and are very thankful of what you do. Passing your knowledge, insights and years of skill building from your experiences in the field. We are very Grateful for you

[@joepie221]

@@715bambam I'm happy to pass it along. Do the same and we all win.

[@RANDALLOLOGY]

I like that design. Got some saw blades I bought at a yard sale that are really sharp. Going to make that arbor so I can use them. Thanks for the innovation and inspirational video.

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

I have just about finished making the internal key , piston type as i have never seen one before . And then you show one ! I did not realise they were even available . Cheers .

[@maciekm7953]

Thank you Joe I definitely use your tips when I make one similar, it is just perfect for my machine and my needs.👍

[@seanbrinlee4752]

I just made one of these today in 304. Lots of runout but I think that's mostly due to the Amazon special slitting saw blades. Thanks for the inspiration Joe!

[@andrewthick185]

Always a pleasure to see you work. God bless.

[@primedesign9738]

Great Project! great to see you give all the conversions to metric for 99.9% of your jobs now, This is great for us using the metric system 'down under' keep up all the great work!

[@RockingJOffroad]

Nice project! I know it is a fairly simple job, but as usual, your attention to detail shows !

[@markshomeengineering5243]

Awesome Joe! You take engineering to another level. Great Video(s).

[@johmcinally3521]

Fantastic technical knowledge, glad to subscribe Joe.

[@hootinouts]

Joe, as always, your skills and craftsmanship are impeccable. Your arbor configuration is superb. I plan on making myself one following your design. Thank you for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much!

[@richardsedenquist3222]

Made one before watching your video joe....had some runout....now I know how to leave it stick out like you did to counter act that.......thank you and keep up the good work!!

[@CMAenergy]

I made one arbor similar many years back, and an old tool and die maker told me to put it into the mill and then true up the face and it will always run true, It definitely worker for me,

[@donmathias1705]

I was given the task of cutting 90 slots inside a dia 1.771" (45mm) bore 0.236" (6mm)deep and 2 3/4" (70mm) long using .020" (0.5mm). I used std 1/3/4' slitting (60T) saws with a 5/8' bore. This was a very challenging job because of two things. The bore was blind and the material was 347 duplex stainless steel. I made an indexing head that was "automatic'. That was the 90 slots solved. The cutter was run on a chain driven (motorcycle cam chain and sprockets to get them small enough) arbour and fitted inside the end of a slotted bar to facilidate the chain. This bar was mounted onto a clamp assembly that attached to our bridgeport mill quill.. The cutter was driven by a chain that was driven by a sprocket in an R8 collet. I think it ran about 120rpm. We had full flow coolant. The first time we ran it in trials it smashed the saw without doing one slot! Not wanted to give up we got some cutters coated with TIN of some sort. That worked better but still only got a few done before it shattered. The cutter was not blunt but something else caused the failure. So I set about making a high pressure oil pump and associated tank and filter and return system. With straight cutting fluid, same as gear cutters used it survived. We then bought another milling machine, adapted our setup for "production" and we ran that machine for some years, each cutter doing between three or four components before replacing. These components were "heater heads" for a stirling engine and the slots were only there to act as a radiator for the heat transfer of the high pressure nitrogen. These components ran at about 900degC at 45bar for as long as 30,000hrs. Each machine had four "heads" on it and we made thousands of heads over the years. We also used the same technique to cut 0.014" slots in a gang of three but 180 slots in total in our cooler part of the engine but these were more like cylinders and had a thru hole of around 55mm. We did these stacked 2 at a time, and cut going, in indexed, cut coming out etc. It was brain teasing stuff. I was lucky to be surrounded by clever mechanical engineers but they valued my "hands on" engineering skills.

[@joepie221]

A good combination is a clever engineer and a clever machinist who he listens to. Thing happen when they find each other. I bet that was interesting to see.

[@bpark10001]

Couldn't you have used broach instead?

[@johncarey9400]

Thanks Joe! Another excellent project for the shop and toolbox!

[@grayskwerl4973]

Very good video and a well done saw arbor. Every detail important - and a lot of details on this one. Great idea about doing the final bore with the arbor extended. I think the major reason most people don't like to use the slitting saws is the lack of a good arbor. + This one is certainly a keeper. +

[@davidstansbury3204]

Awesome video as usual. Another project for me to try. Thank you for your time and knowledge

[@joepie221]

Have fun!

[@JanBinnendijk]

When i was much younger... (25) i came up with the same design.. and this design has served me very well over the last 27 years...the only thing is.. mine is a bit smaller.. but these tools pack a punch!.. Keep up the good work!..

[@artfiend75]

Beautifully made yet simple little piece. Thanks Joe.

[@joepie221]

Glad you like it!

[@christurley391]

Handy project for sure. Thanks for the video Joe.

[@sethwinegar]

Great video Joe and thank you. I’ll definitely be making one of these in the near future.

[@georgehayden7723]

Great build! You mentioned heat/expansion and measuring. Here’s a little tidbit that I’ve found useful over the years; Almost everyone can hold something 140F. No one can hold 160F (without smoke😏). Just a quick way to get an idea how hot something is.

[@1crazypj]

Few months ago I needed a low profile arbour for 1" bore cutter. I literally picked up a 7/8" high tensile bolt at the side of the road that had fallen off 'something'.(head markings showed it was HT bolt) (I was getting mail from mailbox!) To make sure things were concentric, I centre drilled both ends and made a centre from a piece of scrap in chuck, live centre in tailstock. Turned off threads to 3/4", turned off hex head then drilled and counterbored to 1" for about 3/4 of head thickness. Threaded 10x1.25 as I do most stuff in metric (50 yrs working on Japanese motorcycles) Made the 1" plug from 1144 I had bought to make low profile arbour.It worked so well I picked up some 5/8" bolts to make smaller arbours for slitting saws ith small bore. Thanks for vid, it has been most useful and saved some cash

[@Rsc-dz2sh]

Love your dial test indicator clock

[@keithmonarch447]

Very nice and I use to actually sold circulater saw blades were manufactured in different European machines 😀 I'm getting going into using a small drill / mill. This is good 👍 way to show people.

[@oldschoolengineer58]

That's a neat low profile arbour Joe,thanks for sharing Brother!

[@TomokosEnterprize]

I have always liked "Rapid Tap" products for my general light use cutting oil. Since it no longer has the skull and crossbones is no longer on the can I have used it more frequently than before when I used it only for hand tapping. I sure hear you on working with stainless. I often compare it to cutting an inner tube with a 2x4, LOL. That is a sweet little arbor that should stand the test of time. Thanks Joe.

[@billstanley4819]

Oh snap... I just have to make one of these arbors. Thanks for the great vid Joe.

[@joepie221]

Go for it!

[@VKC83]

I've never had the pleasure of using a carbide slitting saw but definitely danced with HSS a lot. My Dad n I used to manufacture LG2 Bronze filters for a steel mill here. Our biggest order was for 1250 pieces. My Dad made my first arbor for me (back in those days I was only on the milling machine, Dad kept me away from the lathe). If my memory is not failing me, 2mm thick 100 tooth 100mm ø. Each filter had 8 slots roughly 50 long n 5mm deep, 10 000 slots in total. I went through that first run with one slitting saw. Depending on the quality of the slitting saw, there is definitely always a bit of run out, I've even had slitting saws where the teeth where not ground to an even depth but the cutting dia ran relatively true. I've exploded one 1.6mm thick when working in steel too, wakes ya up lol. I will definitely remember this arbor design, I'm sure one day it will come in handy. Apropo stainless n tapping, we have a product called Tapmatic here in ZA, it cools n lubricates, wish I could send some to you to try out, curious as to what you'd say, that smurf goop looks like a pain. These days I do a lot of stainless, 304, 316, 431(EN57), N685.

[@maitajack]

Many thanks Joe. I'm heading now to my shop and make a saw arbor.

[@MegaLostOne]

Thank you once again Joe. I made the mill vise stop last week that you did and this weekend I made the slitting saw arbor like yours here, the only difference is I made mine out of 4140 and my blades are .750. I took my time and worked it slow so there was no challenge to the time you did yours in 🤣. It took me probably six or seven hours but I had to turn down a piece of 1.125 4140 to .875 and I was able to hit within a couple of tenths on all my measurements (after I let them cool to room temp and did a finish pass) which is the first time I have been able to consistently do that on a project without having to start over with a new piece.

[@abennett5636]

Made one similar myself a while back really useful bit of kit 👍

[@michedmck]

Congrats, Joe! This is the first slitting saw arbor I've seen (including home-built and commercial ones) which runs true. I call these "ching-ching" saws because of the characteristic sound they make as a result of being non-concentric. Even the arbor made by Stefan Gotteswinter went "ching-ching". I hope to replicate your success when I remake my arbor. A concentric slitting saw has a much longer life!

[@joepie221]

You can 'unloosen' the ones that go ching-ching and spin them a couple degrees as they get dull. Uses a fresh section of the blade.

[@MaturePatriot]

A very slick saw arbor!

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed....lots of lessons shared in this tool build

[@joepie221]

Hi Chuck, thanks for stopping by. Glad you enjoyed it and I hope you are all well.

[@Amritt_Poncho_Villa]

Solutions, knowledge, experience, pass it on!! Good call! 'n good on you! Thanks ; -)

[@dr1verman]

Nice job, I like the tip about rubber to dampen vibrations. Un-loosen is kind of a double negative, but hey, brilliant job as always.

[@gregloubser4744]

Joe, I made a very similar arbor. The main difference was I used a 16mm bolt as stock material. Grade 8 bolts are a reasonable steel.Threads were cut off, and the head makes a convenient place to grip the arbor when tightening the cap screw.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Joe, A good project and worth taking the time to make an arbor that will last for a long time... Have a good week. Paul,,

[@eastcoastandy2905]

Quinn might like one of these... Tidy work as always, thanks.

[@theeddies]

Thanks Joe. Nice little project and something I need to make soon.

[@samrodian919]

Nice one Joe, I am going to order some material and make one of those as I have a couple of slitting saws but no arbour. Thanks for showing the proper way to do it lol

[@johnsavoy4784]

As always another great video,I'll be making one,even though I may never need it,

[@jamescopeland5358]

Great project Joe, I'll give it a try! Thx

[@jdm2651]

I have just realized how little market offer there is for saw arbors, especially for small diameters like 5, 8, and 13mm. Thank you for showing how to make a proper one.

[@donswords6671]

That was a freaking awesome video. I learned a ton. Thank you Joe!

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@melgross]

A real expert makes it look easy. Getting these tolerances isn’t always easy.

[@PayneKiller23]

I made the same tools years ago, works great

[@Smallathe]

Wonderful build! I always clean and oil my lathe when done...

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Great video and cool tool, thanks, Joe!

[@stanwooddave9758]

Awesome video for a DIY shop work project. Thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

You bet

[@pcbondart]

interesting solution to getting saw to run true . . . i did one recently where i had to use an .008 thick blade cutting 4140, i made a more conventional arbor, but i made my finishing cuts where the blade fit with the arbor IN THE MILL, using a lathe cutting tool held in the vise . . . it ran perfect . . .

[@joepie221]

Can't get better than that.

[@SpencerWebb]

Nice, elegant design, sir! 👍

[@sooty655]

Great design, Joe. Makes my present arbor look very clunky. Time to make a new one. 😊

[@emmettgraham833]

Nice job Joe, was looking for a new project!

[@jamesdavis8021]

Fun and useful project.

[@jeffgrivers8750]

As always Joe. You are the man!!

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that!

[@homemadetools]

Professional work as usual. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)

[@joepie221]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@homemadetools]

@@joepie221 You're very welcome. Feel free to email me at "jon" at our website url, and I'll give you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you like :)

[@matspatpc]

Nice design. I've got two arbors,, 1" and 22mm (nearly 7/8", but metric so precisely 22mm) both home-made! At some point, I may redo the cap in this style.

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Gotta make one of those. Nice project.

[@user-kr6yj4rh1l]

Thanks for another great video, it's a neat little almost flush unit and l have a couple of jobs that getting real close to the surface will make it a neater job so lm going to knock up one for myself and am sure l will find more uses for one as l play in my workshop, thanks and keep them interesting videos coming. Martin

[@joepie221]

Thanks Martin. Will do.

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks. I was looking for how you dealt with the radius for thin saws and that answers my question. The next question would be why choose to make the boss on the removable part rather than the arbor but I now presume that is so you can make it very low profile. Many thanks. I will be making my own.

[@joepie221]

Correct. The boss on the cap will always end up with the same underside clearance regardless of the saw thickness.

[@BensWorkshop]

@@joepie221 Only issue I have is do I (and if so how) put a keyway on for my saw. I have a 3" saw with a 1" hole I need to make an arbor for. I suspect I will make it from 1.5" EN8 bar without a keyway.

[@dabodo932]

Beautifully designed, nice machining & thanks for giving up your time effort in producing this video. Hope you don’t get issues with galling on the close fitting stainless on stainless parts especially considering the environment & use. Wouldn't take much contamination to mess that nice work up. Thanks again for the fantastic video.

[@somebodyelse6673]

Do you use some kind of lubricant when you have stainless on stainless threads?

[@dabodo932]

@@somebodyelse6673 Hi thanks for your question. Yes it’s absolutely essential to use a high quality anti scuffing paste when fitting stainless threads & close fitting stainless on stainless components. I personally have always used the brand Rocol for this. My concern is more of the neat fitting stainless on stainless sliding components . It would only take a small burr, bruise or contamination for galling those components up. The problem of using anti scuffing paste in this environment/use is that contamination is highly Likely to stick to the paste and so could be working against you when fitting removing cutters/parts. For these reasons I personally believe stainless on stainless in this particular design/environment is not preferable. Beautiful design, its just I personally would be reluctant to use Stainless. Hope this helps.

[@ophirb25]

Very nice. I will use this in my new self build milling machine which will be ready in a few years....😜

[@vincei4252]

Excellent as always, Joe. I'll be making a couple of these for sure. Old me would just buy an arbor from McMaster ... now to go buy some 3/4 stainless rod from McMaster :)

[@dziggy3004]

I bought some slitting saws of ebay, because, well I know I'd need 'em one day! actually, i need to watch some videos on slitting saws, cause i haven't got a clue! :) however, i definitely know that I need some arbors to go with the saws! thanks for this!

[@codprawn]

Perfect - I have several small slitting saws I bought to make slots in cast iron guides for my Startrite bandsaw. I was going to buy an arbour but why bother when I can make one! Thanks for the great video as always!

[@sharg0]

About dishing of thinner slitting saws: Yes the good ones are relieved in some way but there are (cheaper) brands that are just flat. Learned this at a previous job where my predecessor had bought some to save money IIRC. Gets expensive when your parts becomes scrap.

[@matter9]

Great tip when setting up to finish bore the arbor re: holding on the application location 👌👌👌😎🤙

[@matter9]

And finish facing as well 👌

[@pwpia5461]

Super job Joe!!!

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Jersey Joe speaks again. 😆 Thanks, John

[@edh.9153]

Great job!!!! As always. That is wonderful! Ed Hicks

[@simonfunwithtrains1572]

Thank you very much. Great job as always.