Machining a Custom Porsche Turbo Fuel Cap! Widget105

Machining, Powder Coating and Engraving a Custom Porsche 930 Turbo Fuel Cap!
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Links for this video
Powder Coat Gun: amzn.to/2artWkX
Headphones for Audio Recording: amzn.to/2apXBu1
BRCHN Design: bit.ly/2aohHrN
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Reach us / CNC Info:
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Music copyrighted by John Saunders 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH

[@thedge7]

Just like in auto racing the crashes are what add to the interest. Thank you for not editing them out!

[@GeofDumas]

Sorry to hear about your grandpa, John. Best wishes to you and your family

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Really sorry to hear about your Grandpa John. When your ready I think it would make a cool chip break to tell us a little more about him or do something in his memory if you wanted to. I know I enjoyed your previous stories about him and his impact on you. This was a cool project, glad to see it all wrapped up. Thanks again for all your contributions to the KZbin machinist community.

[@lancer2204]

Simple solution would be a dab or two of super glue between the mounting block and your part, a gentle heat with a blowtorch once you're done and the parts come apart. The gent at clickspring uses this method for machining very thin items

[@TheMetalButcher]

I've done some machining with superglue. It's not always foolproof.

[@CalebMayfieldMHF]

This was my thought as well. I think a dab of superglue between the parts with the bolt would hold it and keep it from spinning. Lots of ways about it.

[@tomdag7860]

I would have put a reverse thread on it so it wouldn't loosen.

[@loomjake]

I would have just made a fixture. Always useful to have laying around for future projects too.

[@i.bcraftsman5977]

Yes it work I learn it from Chris from Clickspring too

[@rb26kinigos]

I love the way you showing everybody that cnc world is not perfect,Its not like throwing a piece of metal into the machine and it gives you back a perfect part!Very good job and quality videos,well done!!!

[@brandonl.5998]

That 5/16 3-Flute cuts like there's nothing there! Its glorious!

[@DOCDARKNESSREAL]

My sincere sympathies on losing your grandfather, best wishes to you and your family for the future. The cap was a work of art, tool marks and all! Thanks for sharing.

[@jaredcallahan9515]

Just use 2 screws to hold it....quick to do and no way the machine can unscrew it

[@mikey7326]

It's video series like this that keep me up all night watching them.

[@formablegrabber1436]

In the spirit of hating to see the texture in powder coating, the next time you do an aluminum part like this look into brite dip anodizing. It's so much cleaner, doesn't have the 'wavy' look of the powder coat (Which did cover up the 'oops' that we all experience). You polish the part first and then send it off to have it anodized. It looks like black chrome when it comes back and holds up to all kinds of crazy solvents and what not that are used all the time in the pro racing circuit. Cheers!

[@4DIYers]

Who knew watching a fuel cap being made would be so mesmerizing. Amazing work!

[@TxStang]

A second indexing pin from under the part to the fixture would be very simple and easy to do and make the jig easily repeatable

[@RobiSydney]

Locktight on the flat shear face of the end.

[@colinbastien8389]

Left hand thread. I cringed when I saw that OD operation about to start. Why you would use a right hand screw for that fixture, I cant understand.

[@bradfordburgett8088]

+NYC CNC or a left hand cutter, either way the cutting force would tighten rather than loosen

[@PeterWMeek]

Except with a left-hand screw (or cutter) the problem would just have migrated to the interior cuts. Possibly using a right-hand screw and cutter for the inside cuts and switching to a left-hand cutter (still with the right-hand screw) for the outside cuts might work. Something positive would be best - pin, second screw, glue/Loc-Tite, etc. You really need a vise or solid clamps before you can count on friction to prevent a part from moving.

[@meichler23]

+Colin B. Geez...

[@GregsGarage]

I really enjoyed the whole series John. The mistakes, the recalibrating, problem solving. Just top notch. Thanks for bringing us along.

[@TAWPTool]

I'm so sorry to hear about your Grandfather passing John. Know he will be forever watching you from above, beaming with pride as he sees what you are accomplishing, and knowing that he had a part to play in it all. Prayers to you and the family.

[@travisshrewsbury7169]

nice work john,glad to see this finally complete. Sorry to hear about your grandpa man

[@alphambeer]

Sorry about your loss, John. It sucks losing relatives. About the vid, I really like that you show your mistakes and don't edit them out. As a hobby machinist(well, I do work with CNC-mills, but I have no training) it really helps with my learning and also give me some hope :-) Even you guys with experience, know-how and cool machines make mistakes now and then. Thank you for yet another great video.

[@886014]

I really like how you keep things real John and are happy to put up your mistakes as well as the successes. We all learn from mistakes, even those others make, and I really appreciate that and once again tip my hat to you.. Having said that, that was a super sketchy setup, and I was just waiting for the inevitable crash. I think it's always good to consider the cutting forces whenever setting up. In this case the cutter was pulling the work up, and trying to unscrew it. It was also climb cutting IIRC. All are conspiring to crash the setup. I've heard of reverse helix end mills helping in situations like this, however have never tried it. FWIW some shops have a rule that one fixture setups are NEVER allowed.

[@SamBirchenough]

Really great job John! It's been such a pleasure doing this project with you. Awesome to see the final part on the car!!

[@TomsToolRoom]

Turned out Awesome John! We never learn anything until we make mistakes.....Great recovery!

[@remiew45]

In reference to your part spinning off of your fixture, soft jaws made out of aluminum in your vise would have been your best bet to hold your part. Make a set of jaws and bore a diameter in them the size of your OD of your threads. Use a spacer between your jaws in your vise. You can then clamp your part tight and never have to worry about it spinning. In my 32 years of Tool & Die making, I used dozens of different soft jaws to make parts. I would have never tried to hold a part like that with (1) 1/4-20 bolt when milling that much material. Other than that, nice looking part!!!!

[@rayfalcone6897]

you got me hooked john,i never thought that I would like this type of work at my age( 79) its beautiful work thats a lot to remember I'll be watching now that I subscribed and like all of the videos I've watched so far.thank you great job, well done.

[@DCT_Aaron_Engineering]

What an awesome part. Nice work John 👍

[@chrismoore6980]

A "fitting" end to a great series that I enjoyed very much Jon. I really appreciate that you share your mistakes with us on video. Everyone has them, but it takes a certain kind of swagger to share them with thousands of people. Jon has that swagger. I am truly sorry about your grandpas passing. I recently lost my nana and it still hasn't sank in to me as well. Cheers to everything he has taught you Jon. Chris @ Steward Machine Shop.

[@No-Pro]

Just came across your channel today, great work. Could watch this all day. Your face when you see the cap come out the oven after being powder coated is a picture, so pleased, priceless. Good job!

[@1339LARS]

Impressive piece of work, could watch it for hours !

[@airgunningyup]

even the best make mistakes , wow , his polish and cleaning collection on the shelf was insane .. cool project !

[@sanjapones1577]

Dude, i dont always leave comments on here but i got to tell you, you're pretty good at doing what you do. Keep up the good work..

[@gregorywest2029]

That is a combination wrench, a box end has box on both ends. Great video.

[@some______guy]

My favorite part of this project, was that it'll be covered 99.99% of the time. I kind of assumed it was one of those exposed gas caps. Somehow it makes it better

[@tyymclarenfan]

Thats absolutely astonishing 👍

[@frederf3227]

Half year armchair QB'ing from a non-machinist: I would love to see a version of this two-tone with the hand-touchy parts (pocket, scallops, text) painted, anodized, and/or sand blasted and the rest machined/anodized/polished. I would cancel paint on the thread side of the gasket groove as it's exposed to fuel. A lot of plastic caps are hollow in the thread center which would allow a fat fixturing post with or without a couple index pins inside. Overkill but with a little taper to the post and hole your fixture fastener gets tons of grip, probe to pickup Z in the program.

[@Rich77UK]

Nice job. Looks great and not tacky like so many of these style caps can do.

[@VLAHECO]

I loved this machining

[@dcmkcbbq]

There are 2 things you could do to keep the part from spinning. 1. Use 2 bolts in the base. If you did them 90' off your thread on the cap, you could use them to locate the part so it lines up properly to keep the name straight, or 2. Use a left hand threaded bolt. That way the spin of the spindle would tighten the part.

[@paulthemachinst6545]

I don't know why but I hate cnc machines. but yet i loved watching this video. Looks great and I wouldn't complain about owning that fuel cap. THANKS

[@williamclark77]

I ran into the EXACT same issue with Fusion 360 while trying to do a timing pulley from round stock. I wish that I had thought of your solution instead of just letting it cut square air space. Very nice end result on the gas cap!

[@centurialinc]

Very Nice! Well done. Best Matt

[@bigdawgsbusa2]

NYC great video my work ethic is the same, nothing wrong with a small failure, it becomes a learning curve and the extra care in clocking the part makes a difference, i have had a few show vehicles over the years and people look for the details

[@MichaelMcGill_emtwo]

Just noticed your machined gopro mount...that's sweet!!

[@h2o11h2o]

I watch these five videos. Great job~

[@floodo1]

Can't beat that moment when you screw it in and it's a wrap! as others have said an adhesive between the fixture and the part probably would have worked a treat. Thanks for "keeping it real" for us though (-8

[@meichler23]

Great video as usual, John. Sorry to hear about your grandpa. Hope all is well!

[@ronkluwe4875]

John; Nice work as always. Now that everyone has seen the cap, expect the orders to come in. If you do decide to make a limited production run, what about using 2 locking screws on the bottom to attach to the jig block or a couple of dowel pins plus the locking screw? That way there is no worry about loss of connection and rotation of the piece and you will know it will always clock correctly even if you have to remove the cap from the fixture. I bet that cap would look great with a good polish on it followed by a candy powder coat and engraving of the name. Regards; Ron

[@shootgp]

You are wrong Sir! It would look better anodized!!! J/K... Seriously, I think an anodized one would look pretty sharp though...

[@dcm7777777]

Condolences on your loss, Take care and Thank you for the vids.

[@forrestaddy9644]

Spinning parts retained in the fixture by center bolts: relieve one mating face about 1/2 its diameter, in this case the fixture plate around the bolt. This gives a larger radius of resistance. Flat to flat, the bolt tension pulls a slight crown in the face so the greatest force is concentrated near the bolt. Relieve one face ...

[@jamesspires8096]

Great to see this project finished! I saw the car at the open house and was wondering if you would come back and finish the cap. Hope you and the family are well

[@cstrado]

when you were milling the inside the spin of the tool was trying to tighten the 1/4 inch bolt. when you transferred to the outside the tool was loosening the bolt. using a left handed end mill would have solved the issue.

[@snake8700]

Sorry to hear about your grandpa. I Saw a few more comments about it but I also was thinking about a second bolt or pin to keep from spinning and also make it easier to get it set up to engrave after powder coat

[@bluedeath996]

If you use a bolt with the opposite thread angle (Left Handed), the standard direction of the mill would tighten rather than loosen it. That would give a more reliable fixture.

[@bcbloc02]

Sorry to hear about grandpa. I think a female threaded slug that would let you hold it lower down and with more thread engagment might have been a better option to avoid having your endmill screw the cap loose.

[@proteummachining]

For your 3D adaptive stock boundary, you can just activate your stock body and click the rim of that for your stock contour. No need to create another circle! Also the part unscrewed because if you think about the force from the flutes on the edge, its directly in the unscrew direction. You'd be better with a left hand spiral/left hand cut endmill, or a left hand thread to hold the part down. Fun project! Condolences about your grandpa!

[@KeenanTims]

The tool torque on the interior profile will push the part clockwise, tightening. On the exterior profile, it's the opposite and will loosen it. Nothing to do with the differing radius or tool pressure. Nice save anyway!

[@justkeen18]

thats a neat project bloke!

[@rayfalcone6897]

John,that wrench is a combination box and open end wrench... in your case they sell them in a longer version,which work better in small areas I use them all the time on my milling machine...more torque. and less effort....just my two cents and thank you again,

[@theo_angelos]

very nice machining, awesome work!

[@kannznichkaufen]

Great video of a great project. Also I find it kind to allow us to learn from a mishap. Now that we have learned, I would lean towards a jig with one screw and two short indexing pins. For repeatability of the mount after the coating. Thank you for sharing your experience. Awesome.

[@H4rleyBoy]

Re powder coating, if you pre-heat the item first it will get around the Faraday cage effect, just be careful as it is easier to over coat this way.

[@outsidersTexas]

Really nice work!

[@scottlang7564]

thank you for the vids I have just gotten my CNC lv 1 cert and I really enjoy seeing what can be done with a cnc

[@eightmantis976]

Looks great, I was wondering if you had used a lock washer, that might have helped.

[@toddpeterson7316]

John, I am sorry for your loss. You are in our thoughts.

[@howardwhite9773]

Amen to ditching the adjustable wrench! :)

[@KenToonz]

So sorry to hear about your Grandpa, John. I know he meant a lot to you.

[@davidabbs4459]

This was a fantastic series, if you did it again would you machine the thread last to get it clamped in the vice easier?

[@SmokyFrosty]

You should definitely make more use of super glue when designing fixtures. Little bit of heat to break it of, simple

[@17hmr243]

lock-tight on the bottom of the cap facing the scrap as well heat gun to brake bond as well as the screw?

[@shootgp]

A million ways... Left/reverse thread screw to counter the torque...

[@blasebermea3493]

i would have drilled a hole and put a small pin.

[@rafaellastracom6411]

I agree, even with Aluminum.

[@pierremf6277]

Easy way to stop it from spinning is to put a few drops of superglue on the bottom where the fixture and the part meet and then tighten it down . After the machining just heat it up and it wil come loose.

[@zacharymuzzin5878]

Reverse threading the bottom hole might have helped keep that bolt from loosening up on you. Just an idea for the future

[@TheMorbidMagpie]

older brother said to thread an internal of some ali stock tube clamp that and screw the cap down into it depends on how many you are making

[@theking-dn3sv]

Love watching your videos man! You make me want to buy a tormach lol. My condolences to you and your family. Keep up the good manufacturing!

[@Regalmetalworks]

You know I'm a little partial to Porsche....Great series....The 1st thing I thought though was not a center screw, ha! I may have to see if the 996 turbo cap is similar enough!

[@demonknight7965]

shoukd have figured out how to add those marks,around the rest of it I think it looked awesome.

[@ArcheryBestEdge]

use left handed threads on the part it will tighten as long as you work counter clock wise on the bit

[@TY1979KA]

actually I like these tool marks, they seem like some kind of design feature, if you could have created them all around the cap it would have looked awsome, anyway nice cap, nice car nice work. gut gemacht!

[@eriksonderlon]

Sweet Part! An upside to the character marks is that we get some insight as to how the flutes of the end mill take their cuts into the stock. I'm curious, which direction was the spindle rotating? If it was running clockwise then I could see how it could have unseated the part to the fixture assuming a right handed thread.

[@iznogudsurfer5911]

You should hollow the screw part. Porsche stands for performance and performance depends on weight

[@stretchromer2869]

Looks great to me! Too bad it's always under the fuel lid. Would make some nice bling out in the sunlight!

[@MarioOoGuitar]

Well done!! Great Job!! :) You got a new Abo!

[@user-mz6wu8yt6s]

How bout that micrometer eyeball at 12:59 ! When you regularly work in .001" environment after a while you get the ability to even see things out in the world that stand out to you as glaringly out of parallel and concentricity and it will bother the heck out of you. May even trigger your OCD and cause you to end up buying all new tools also. LOL Your grandfather was a wise man. Keep the crescent wrench out in the truck!

[@danielday2957]

Fixtures for jobs like this can be awkward but you could have added 1or 2 reamed holes and press fitted 2 dowels into the fixture then reamed 2 holes into the job this could have saved a lot on re-clocking the job and stopped it from spinning but other than that nice work first time commenting on your channel but the work your doing is great, and also watching your vids does help me sometimes to figure out any problem that come across when I'm on the high speed VMC at work great to see more people posting vids of there own work.

[@rufusx666]

very sorry to hear about your grandfather, my condolences,

[@EastCoastWoodworking]

Your Grandpa is right use a proper wrench whether a combination wrench, open end or box end never use channelocks or adjustable wrenches in place of a proper wrench. Once again my condolences to you and your family, your grandpa made a big difference in the world and also taught you a lot.

[@freshkryp69]

Try a Black Anodize, then finish machine all the edges with a radius! That would look trick!

[@jaredr2374]

At 17:09 if you change the settings in Fusion 360 to increase the Keep Tool Down (I think) you won't waste so much time with retracts. Not a big deal on single parts, though.

[@manuelmonroy3267]

John it is a box/open end wrench. I send you my Best Condolences Sorry bout your GrandPa !! :( Keep on Truckin Manny

[@lwilton]

Lots of ways to hold that cap registration. If I was doing a few of these I think I'd use a pair of 1/16" or so dowel pins and the bolt. That way you get accurate registration and the bolt hole can be a little oversize, and things won't shift on tightening. For a one-off? I'd probably have made the same oops that you did! :-)

[@alexakkers2859]

Sweeeeeet! Nice Job

[@amadeoortiz]

in my personal opinion I would prefer to knurrling the piece after that scratches.. but it is a nice work!!

[@stuarthardy4626]

John Ask anyone who has use a RT on a manual mill When you cut an internal pocket the cutting forces are one way on the out side you use the other side of the mill ,hence the problem Great video lean a bit more😀 Stuart

[@DoRC]

I wonder if you could have just glued/loctited the part and bolt to prevent spinning

[@mgp-bct7723]

You could do all those lines in all a round and you could do a ring around , Will look much nicer

[@Taluvian]

Should have put offset pin in fixture to prevent spinning and to locate the correct rotational position.

[@cncit]

A lathe chuck with soft jaws or collet chuck on the mill table would be best..the milling cutter unscrewed the part..a chick vice with soft jaws even better!

[@user-vc5uo5oj8b]

nice work!!!

[@paulmicrons8416]

hell dude just knurl it

[@user-po6hn9id1t]

+NYC CNC now I want one like that fuel cap on my E46 compact... with the white parts of the logo submerged like a negative, and the blue parts being two mm below the black parts...

[@pedrosebriant]

Hello, your idea of a central axis to hold the piece is good, but I think it will be better if you add a fixed guide or pin in parallel to a few millimeters of the axis, this would prevent your piece of metal from rotating by the force of twisting in case Loosen the screw. Hola, es buena tu idea de un eje central para sujetar la pieza, pero pienso que te ira mejor si adicionas una guia fija o pin en paralelo a unos milimetros del eje, esto evitaria que tu pieza de metal gire por la fuerza de torcionen caso de aflojarce el tornillo.

[@ford9501]

Definitely this. I thought the same thing the moment he drilled the center hole. A simple pin on the outside radius. He even mentions it in this video later. It would also serve to make alignment for the engraving so simple!

[@RBravo82]

Looking at it now, I would have roughed it conventional, which would be trying to further tighten the part, then climbed a finish pass

[@robertkutz]

very nice work .

[@PeterWMeek]

I try to think of fixturing as satisfying six points of restraint. In this case the plane (top of the block held in the vise) accounts for three of them (three points define a plane - this restrains Z translation and X and Y rotation), the bolt accounts for two (X and Y translation - while also providing the force holding the part to the plane), but nothing but friction is restraining the sixth motion (Z rotation). Your idea of a pin or second bolt would satisfy that sixth restraint. Depending on friction for that last restraint is a bit "iffy". (It pretty much takes a vise or a good clamp to restrain a part by friction.) We've seen that failure to account for all six restraints here, in one of Tom Lipton's videos (and maybe in one of Abom's or maybe Chuck Bommarito's? - I forget). I've certainly seen it in my own projects; fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) none of them were filmed. So, you need to think about exactly what immovable part of the fixture is preventing motion or locating the part along each of the three axes; what is preventing rotation around all three axes; plus some force holding the part against all six restraints. For instance, your clamp engraving project - the moving fixture plate restrains three points: X and Y position plus Z rotation (accepting the possibility of minor motion allowed by clearance around the part); the flat platen restrains X and Y rotation plus Z position. What remains is the force holding the part against the platen. You have suggested a magnetic hold down and depending on the forces needed for engraving (and any problems involved in clearing swarf from the magnetic field) this may work. Vacuum could supply up to 15 pounds of down-pressure for each square inch of the part, which might be enough for engraving. In the most common milling setup the tops of the parallels define a plane restraining Z position and X/Y rotation, the fixed jaw of the vise restrains Y motion and Z rotation, and a positioning stop (either bed or jaw mounted) restrains X motion; the clamping force of the vise keeps the part from moving away from any of those restraints. ----------------------------------------- I've been very sloppy about consistency. I've used several terms for the same thing: position, lateral motion, and translation all refer to the same thing. Moving along (or preventing moving along) an axis without rotation. Sorry about that.

[@rafaellastracom6411]

Question: When bolting down to a base, does it make sense to first machine those areas which would pose the greatest risk in the interest of time? For instance, in your setup the material to be removed would be right at the top where greater torque arms are more easily generated, contours included. Basically working out to in, maximizing stiffness. On the down side, it would require more tool changes BUT if it gives you better chances with a risky setup maybe its worth the risk. I have no idea by the way, I´m asking to learn a bit more about how machinists generate machining solutions. Regards.