Machining - Bridgeport Controls 101 ( and some other stuff )

This video helps the new user acclimate to all the knobs and levers on a Bridgeport style Knee mill. There are a couple of gems included for the seasoned user. Take a Look !!

[@nevetslleksah]

Power Quill feed is in inches per revolution, typically .0015”, .003”, .006”. Love that outrigger fixture for machining the ends of long parts, going to add that to my project list. Turret knee mills are very versatile. Thanks for making the video. Stay healthy.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Joe. I am still slowly getting to know my machine. It's surprising how much love there is out there for Bridgeports! You solved one conundrum for me. I couldn't figure out why the spindle rotation seemed to reverse sometimes. I didn't realise that the back gear reversed the mechanical drive. Regards, Mark Presling, Queensland, Australia

[@richardfuerst5286]

Again Joe, another great video. After 3 years of high school metal shop and college for machining & welding I spent most of my life as a mechanic. Retired now and started a mobile welding business. A few weeks ago I acquired a 1974 Bridgeport. Now thanks to you Im getting back into the swing of things. Thank you sir.

[@joepie221]

That is awesome!

[@marksarginson1916]

Hi Joe, My machine is also a Bridgeport clone and the feed is marked at .0015" , .003" and .006" per rotation of the spindle. I enjoy your tutorials and thank you for your time.

[@dougberrett8094]

Thanks for the memories. Whilst working as a prototype machinist in the late 1970’s, I had put the Bridgeport mill into every extreme position. Back then DRO’s were unknown, so no worries about dealing with their parts.

[@dondotson4604]

the control on the side of the mill settings 1,2,&3 determines the feed rate of the quill up or down under power feed. I appreciate your videos. I am a amature, and have learned many helpful things about machining from you. Thanks

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@troyclawson6192]

I am newer to milling and started building some fairly tight tolerance parts for others on the side as something I enjoy. But it is a world of change from my nursing degree I went to school for. You have provided me with a wealth of machinist basic's that I use often and continue to build on. Thanks Joe keep the video's coming!

[@joepie221]

Great to hear. Thanks for the confidence.

[@murdoch817]

Interesting I recently replaced the clock spring on a bonified Bridgeport. I did a really bad thing I read the instructions. They claim the clock spring tension should be set to keep the quill in position only. Not tight as to where it moves the quill rapidly up like yours did, or loose as to where it falls (-Z). I am not saying your right or wrong, clone versus B.P.. Personally I am going reset mine to where it brings the quill up just a bit slower. That being said I love your channel; I have learned so many great little time saving and accuracy improving techniques, thank you so much. I have been working in the field for a mere 10 years, you remind me of the guy I used to work with, a 30 year tool and die guy. Every day I would learn at least one thing from Harry, it was a sad day for me when he was fired for no good reason. Hope your doing well Harry wherever you ended up & thanks again Joe.

[@tomthumb3085]

Great video again Joe. Very informative and interesting as always,thanks.

[@tedmattingly7564]

Joe, you have great timing. I was just looking for this type of video and I got the notification that you just uploaded a new video. I just got a new (to me) Bridgeport and I'm still learning the controls. Your format is perfect and easy to follow. Thank you sir.

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@spiderbrandt4066]

Hi Joe, love your videos , I all so love this stuff that's why I became a Fitter and Turner in 1967 now retired but I still love it , people like you are good for the sol you help people you don't Evan know , that doesn't happen very often to day , so good on ya mate.

[@joepie221]

Happy to do it. Thanks for watching.

[@erichockuly9819]

Thanks for the videos...one comment said that you would make a GREAT shop teacher, and I agree. I have shown all my new apprentices your videos. Your explanations are a perfect teaching tool!!!

[@joepie221]

Thank you. Whats the school or business name?

[@erichockuly9819]

@@joepie221 Ford Cleveland Engine Plant...Machine Repair apprentices do not get a lot of machine shop time. Before they go into the shop with Toolmakers, I like to show them ideas of things they can complete in their time in the shop and give them a better foundation of safety. Some of your videos showing the math on the dry erase are very interesting and it puts a "hands on real life" dimension that they find interesting. Keep up the great work!!!

[@tomtomsonton]

Thanks for keeping the vids coming, I am liking these back to basics. Two areas with little coverage on YT are Mill DRO operation, and as simple as it sounds Cleaning best practices, tips on keeping the work area and machine in good shape. Daily, part by part, air, vacuum, coolant cleanup, that type of thing. Anyway thanks, when I cant get to my machine I watch these!

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that. Thank you.

[@TAWPTool]

Yet another great video Joe. I have a Precision Mathews Bridgeport clone and this video complements the manual nicely. Thanks for sharing!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching Guy. Stay well.

[@brucewilliams6292]

It is amazing just how versatile the Bridgeport mill is. I had no idea how far it could be bent around. Thank you as always for the video. Now I just need the room for one! :)

[@joepie221]

Move the refrigerator outside. problem solved.

[@brucewilliams6292]

@@joepie221 LOl, that makes sense to me. Just need to convince the wife and kids!

[@e.d.s.inc.shandon9133]

As always always informative, loved the outrigger idea. Thanks again Joe!

[@joepie221]

It works well. Thanks.

[@robp3918]

Joe thanks for putting these videos out . I'm a journeyman (manual)machinist and I still watched it Haha. I think the #1 thing you missed was informing about lubrication of the machine before anything else happens! Lazy machinists are the death of machine tools !!!!!! Aslo years ago I watched your ar build, I'm happy to say I've completed my own on a manual knee mill . Some of your tips were helpful. Thanks

[@joepie221]

This video was just for the controls and knobs. I considered adding the oils and greases, but left it off.

[@joecnc3341]

Great VIdeo, Joe Pie. You should have been a shop teacher at a community college - as you would have been one of THE BEST EVER.. One thing that you didn't do - that was drummed into my head - was to run your finger or thumb up in around the inside of the spindle - to make sure that there are no chips or burrs prior to putting the R-8 collet in... Just a difference in how you are taught. I have a Chevalier, a upgraded CNC SuperMax YCM-30, a Brother 215 CNC mill, and a table top mill (Sherline that I CNC'd - its an addiction, what can I say?). You are totally awesome machinist and instructor - love every video... THANK YOU- for taking the time to put this all together - you're a great instructor. Please keep up the great work.

[@joepie221]

Thats quite a compliment. thank you. I do regularly check for debris in the spindles, on all my mills, but didn't show it here. That is a good thing to point out. Just do it with the machine turned off.

[@zmotorsports62]

I'm not sure on your Enco but on my Taiwanese Precision Matthews, which is a Bridgeport clone like yours, the low, medium and high settings are labeled as .0015", .003" and .006" respectively. Enjoy your videos Joe. I now even use the "bump" technique with the tailstock on my lathe when drilling deep holes after watching one of your videos. Great tip and thank you for sharing your knowledge and years of experience. Mike

[@johntenhave1]

another excellent insight, thank you. I have a Bridgeport and was convinced that there was a hand wheel missing on that power feed direction shaft.. thanks for sorting that out.

[@joepie221]

Glad it helped

[@carlwhite8225]

Joe, I am taking delivery next week of the nearly same Enco machine, Thanks as it was very informative.

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ctjctj2]

Joe, the "power down feed speed" is not a speed, it is a feed rate, locked to the spindle rotation. On my Bridgeport it is 0.0015, 0.003 and 0.006 PER revolution of the spindle. I'm new to all of this so I run my machine relatively slowly. Last job where I used the power down feed was in drilling through a brass weight to clamp to a trombone. I was using the power feed to keep the drill bit from being yanked into the hole.

[@glenncpw]

You make those who don't have one envious, (I upgraded my round column mill to a clone a couple of years ago) great video Joe...

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@rtkville]

Thank you, I don't have a mill but always have wanted one but at 74 I'm coming to the con conclusion it's not going to happen but thanks I've learned a lot!

[@anonymousgeorge4321]

I really like that outrigger -- the lamp holder, too. Great video. Thanks.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. That lamp holder is simple, but very helpful.

[@TgWags69]

Hey Joe, thanks for the follow up vid. The power down feed and holding the brake to tighten the draw bar were new for me. You can always hear stuff being done in all the machining videos but no one shows it. I remember Keith Fenner mentioning in a couple videos that he used the crank wheel on the down feed as opposed to the spindle in times that something would grab and wouldn't suck down through a part. He didn't show how though just described it. Anyway good job thanks

[@kennethfrick9879]

Great video!! As another commentator stated please do a video on how to evaluate a used machine if you were purchasing. I would like to buy one myself, but I am not sure what is good vs bad on tolerances. Always great videos and I agree with many others that you make a Fantastic Instructor!

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much. Dale, over at 'Build Something Cool' channel recently did a video on this very topic. Thorough. Check his out.

[@RagsdaleCreek]

Nice training video. Could have used that 40 years ago. Awesome for the beginner and novice as well. God bless Stay safe

[@coleenlofgren6385]

Thanks for a basic vid !! I wish I would have seen this years ago and mounted a power strip to the back of my mill, instead I have four wires running to a outlet box on the wall (clutter) Thanks again Joe ! Mark

[@joecnc3341]

I like the Power Strip Idea too - will definitely steal it.

[@ngauge22]

Brings me back to high school machine shop. Thanks again.

[@joepie221]

You bet!

[@winstonjones7519]

Thanks Joe. I appreciate the education. Will use it at work.

[@ericmcclelland7942]

Joe - Thank you - as always. Ever thought of doing a video on the care and feeding of a "Bridgeport? What oil and how often to fill the cups up with and what to put in the way oilier on the side of the machine. Just some general "do's and don'ts" for daily use?

[@tedmattingly7564]

Joe, as far as spindle speed goes, the VFD that runs my Bridgeport only shows Hertz on the digital display. I got an inexpensive Electronic Tachometer from Amazon and made a small cheat sheet for Hz to RPM for spindle speed. It has really helped me with my speeds & feeds. As my health allows, I've been making an adapter to replace the quill feed lever with a nice hand wheel. I believe it will suit my needs better than the single handle. Cheeers

[@toolbox-gua]

I’m learning a lot. Clearly. Thank you.

[@joepie221]

Glad to hear it!

[@iareid8255]

Hello Joe, my views on some of the points:- Handwheel versus the hand lever to operate the quill. The hand wheel is positive control but depending on what operation and material you are working with e.g. drilling through some plastics, using the handle it can grab and pull the quill down as you break through. With the hand wheel this does not happen. Personally with most jobs I do I just use the handle, the hand wheel is not any real gain, and not as easy to use.. Power feed selector. I had to rebuild my Bridgeport (Well it was cheap) and I seem to remember that the feed is dependant on spindle speed and the three options are simply travel per spindle revolution, what the actual distance is per revolution, I have no idea? Quill handle. The Bridge[port manual states that the spring tension should not return the quill but simply keep it in the position it is, i.e. a neutral influence on the quill. It certainly seems a better idea, from the knuckle rapping potential you mention with your machine. Thank you for all your videos, I have enjoyed them immensely

[@treyinok]

I've never seen a Bridgeport with a rear view mirror. Very cool... 😁👍

[@niwachien]

@ Joe Pieczynski .. When tramming the head, would it be possible to have a fixture that bolts down to the table and has an arbor standing so that you could insert it into the head with all the adjustments loose and then run the draw bar down to line everything up ? Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@robertegan3889]

I love your videos! Something I never see anyone mention is is tramming in the turret. Personally I think it should always be done. If you forget, and, decide to use your tilt or your nod then you will have a compound angle. Then again if your doing work like that a person should know to check it. I just never see anyone mention it. Or do it.

[@joepie221]

It would be very difficult to convey in a video. I think its something we all need to suffer through to really get it.

[@robertegan3889]

@@joepie221 you deffinately do a great job with making videos. I love how simple you keep things. You are a very efficient teacher for sure.

[@reiniertl]

What I find interesting is the absence of a power draw bar. It saves a lot of time. I use to machine in the shop at the university and with limited time to change tools my actual cutting time has increased dramatically since they installed power draw bars. I guess is the same for everybody because finding an empty mill is not a big issue anymore.

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Good video just got a hold of a 20 year old new old stock 9x42 J head Comet Mighty Max clone for $3200.00 . I'm a retired mechanic and just started getting into machining this last year .Thanks for the how to videos. Now i need to sell my new ZX45 bench top

[@joepie221]

Buy nice or Buy twice.....

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Joe what do you think of the Comet clone made in Taiwan it has M in the casting I'v saw this on the Acer brand Thanks Steve

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Hi Joe one thing i don't like on the Comet clone is the saddle has a thin nylon strip on it that the table rides on . the knee is scraped

[@joshwhite6947]

@@junkmannoparts9696 the M that is on the machine indicates that the castings are Meehanite not just cast iron. Nice find.

[@junkmannoparts9696]

@@joshwhite6947 thanks for the info.

[@gentharris]

The typical "Bridgeport" clone down feed is #1 .0015", #2 .003", #3 .006" per rev. The older Bridgeports were marked this way.. There is a "clutch" in the mechanism that won't allow too much down force to be applied. Max drill with power feed is 3/8" in mild steel.

[@danseely5447]

Joe, thanks for all your great videos. Do you typically have to tram the head when you extend for reach and/or rotate on the column (like reaching a part on the end of your table, not tilting the head)? Tram again when you return it back to the normal operating position?

[@larryschweitzer4904]

To protect the gears for the power down feed I think there is an adjustable clutch behind the cover that you can see @ 8:12 with a lever going into it from the feed engage handle.

[@chrispavlou6602]

beautiful machine. thanks for the how to use tutorial!

[@joepie221]

Glad you like it!

[@Beechwood18]

Hi Joe, I have an old Adcock & Shipley Bridgeport and my Quill feed selector is marked 1.5, 3 and 6 which according to the manuals equates to thou per revolution. Hope that's helpful. Regards Pete

[@edlappin7707]

I like the extension sleeve on the right side feed handle on the X axis . the power feed gear housing is very close to the handle on a standard setup and can be a nasty surprise if not aware.

[@joepie221]

I got pinched as a new guy. Never again.

[@totalcardetailing2022]

I have a Jet 10x50 mill the top is .006, middle is .0015, and the bottom is .003 that how it is marked on the machine. Great video. I will be making one of them outriggers to stand a peace vertically in the machine. I actually have a project that I need it now. Thanks.

[@joepie221]

Awesome. Be sure to put that lower stop on it. It makes clamping the part pretty easy.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

These small mils can sure do a lot of big work. Thanks for the post my friend.

[@joepie221]

No problem 👍

[@dalemcinnes1834]

Hi Joe,. liked the video and right now dream of owning one some day. I'm sure it will probably be a clone if I do. Sure liked the check book analogy you used. Hope you will keep carrying on as you do and hope you keep on unloosening things. Dale in Canada

[@MatthewHolevinski]

I wonder if all the newcomers are thinking, "Why does this guy keep saying unloosening?" haha :)

[@wlogue]

Hey Joe , thanks for the video. I just wanted to mention that the feed handwheel is pretty useful for drilling in grabby materials like brass or copper, where you might need to peck as opposed to power feeding. I dont use it often, but it is a nice option sometimes. Btw, I sure miss Enco! Thanks again bud, taker easy

[@joepie221]

MSC bought ENCO a few years back. I bet the machines are exactly the same.

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video Joe.

[@joepie221]

Any time!

[@iancoulston6452]

Thanks for this basic level lesson.

[@joepie221]

Everybody has to start somewhere.

[@Smallathe]

Awesome into and tip! :)

[@rfcarlson1]

Thanks. I have a Sharp look-alike. There are some features on the machine I've never used and I found your video very informative. I'd like to see you review the maintenance of the machine. There's lots of fittings on the the machine and some take way oil, others spindle oil and at least one for grease. A lot of machines' manuals call out lubricants that are no longer identifiable having been referred to by their 40 year old trade names. (Esso who??).

[@1967Twotone]

The 'Grease' fittings on my Bridgeport are meant to receive way oil, not grease. Machines with these often get greased by those who don't realize. That was the case with the previous owner of my machine.

[@ElGrabnar]

Great channel, great machine and great advice Joe! I was hoping you'd answer a few questions. Little background; I've been Machining for 6/7 years, started in injection molding repair but I've been in optics and collets/spindles/gears. I've run Bridgeports, Lathes, surface and rotary grinders, a lapping machine and a Studer CNC. The company I'm at now pays better than the grinding job (for the company that actually builds and sells grinding and milling machines, somehow.) but the only mills are the oldest cheaper J head fixed speeds you have to manually move the pulleys on from around 68 and 73 respectively and the company has been around since the 40's. Any tips on running those for non nominal radiuses and compensating for not having variable speeds on materials like stainless? Or tips on convincing them to upgrade to something better?(suggested a prototrak converted mill ours are too old to convert, vmc, bed mill or haas mini mill as it's a small area and I'm trying to be reasonable with cost and haas has payment plans lower than 900/month.) Also they told me I'm their expert but I wouldn't say I can be one, I don't even have a full decade under my belt and all my experience was otj not classroom, except for one 4 day welding intro (after they already had me handle welding for about a year without complaint.) what do you think makes someone an "expert machinist"? Sorry for the long post just think people might find this helpful/interesting and I'd like to know what the oldest model you've ran/seen used is and what models you'd recommend to suggest if you find yourself trying to do your job on old or abused machines.

[@unpob]

thank you Joe! Happy fourth.

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@jwjco]

Thanks for the great videos

[@joepie221]

Glad you like them!

[@wilsont6651]

Your outrigger fixture reminds me of a story told to me by an older machinist. The shop that he worked at had a part that they made frequently that was a 12' long shaft that needed work done on the end similar to the part that you showed in the video. They had a hole in the floor on the left of the mill that they would put the part into to do the work on the end. I don't know if they just made a hole in the concrete and then drilled out the hole or if they added a casing to prevent the dirt from filling the hole in. I would assume the latter since they made the part daily for years.

[@joepie221]

Thats a great idea until they hire a new maintenance guy that fills the hole with concrete.

[@fzapp]

Joe thanks for all of the good information you share with us! BTW what brand and model number is you X axis powerfeed? Thanks again.

[@DanLance100]

Hi Joe , I was going to ask the same question .

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

I do like the power board behind the machine . Thanks .

[@joepie221]

Its a no brainer the first time you blow a bunch of steel chips off and a few land across the prongs of one of the cords. behind the machine it always stays clean.

[@michaelryan7515]

Hi Joe thanks for all the informative videos. I have learned a lot from them. Question , the oilers on the side of the head how often should they be oiled and what kind of oil in them and what kind of oil in the main lubrication point also. Keep up the good work, Mike

[@joepie221]

I fill them as they get low. Check them daily. I put light spindle oil in the cups. Way oil in the side auto oiler.

[@dperfetti1]

Joe, Before you put that fixture away I would like to see it mounted in the vise. I could use a fixture like that off the back of the table but I don't understand it being any better in the vise. Great video! I always learn something from you. Thanks!

[@joepie221]

I may be able to do that for you.

[@dperfetti1]

Thanks Joe, if it's to much trouble to make a video I can give you my email address and you can just send me a picture. Doug

[@nathanwrobel5534]

Great video Joe! I have the same question. I’m not able to put together in my head how the outrigger works while in a vise.

[@johncoulter9287]

Awesome machine.

[@joepie221]

It sure is! I'm lucky to have it.

[@Steelcrafted]

I believe the 3 position down feed selector is either .001", .003", or .006" per revolution...no matter the speed, although I believe you aren't supposed to run the power down feed above a certain rpm...like 2000rpm or something

[@mickeypigduck2307]

Ah the good old Bridgeport. The backbone of shops everywhere.

[@Cws351]

Thank you Joe!

[@dudleycornman1624]

The speed setting knob/lever on my machine (Kondia) has thousandths per rev listed on each of the 3 positions.

[@HighOctaneSD]

The last shop I worked at was almost 100% CNC. We had one Bridgeport but only got used rarely as a drill press. We were a mold shop but would take in the occasional general machine work. Well I quoted 20 lathe parts that in the end needed 4, 3/16 drilled holes off axis in two directions. I figured we would just run them on the Bridgeport with the head tilted in two directions. I discussed with the milling lead, he didn’t have a clue. Said to job it to a 5 axis shop. Discussed with a old toolmaker, no clue either. I was out for three months. In the end it got jobbed out to a 5 axis shop. Had to find someone with a 1/2 million dollar machine because no one knew how to run a $5,000 Bridgeport. Silliest thing I’ve ever seen.

[@joepie221]

Wow. Never a FOG around when you need one.

[@HighOctaneSD]

Joe Pieczynski but it gets worse. When I got back three months later the parts were just back from black oxide coated. The 5 axis guy screwed them up, had to weld them, all parts! I should have jobbed them to you. I didn’t know it at the time but your only a few miles away.

[@2lefThumbs]

I hope you remember to unfasten all those clamping bolts after you've unloosened them👍

[@turningpoint6643]

Your spindle feed ratios may be different Joe, but it's not hard to check what yours has. I suspect they probably did copy what Bpt decided was correct though or it might even be listed in your operators manual. Fwiw my Tai built clone shows feeds in thou at all 3 positions so a bit different than yours with only those numbered positions. On mine with the lever straight up that gives .006" feed per spindle revolution. Middle position is .0015" and straight down is .003". I believe the real Bpts have the exact same feed ratios. Since they are geared to the spindle rotation then whatever feed rate you pre select remains the same per spindle rotation no matter what rotational speed the spindle is doing or high / low range (back gear) your in.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Imagine that! Thanks, Joe! Be healthy.

[@joepie221]

You as well.

[@tdubveedub]

Great tour Joe! I am looking to buy a used knee mill, but so many online look beat up. Could you give a lesson on what to look for when inspecting a used mill?

[@joepie221]

Dale, over at 'Build Something Cool' channel recently did a video on this very topic. Thorough. Check his out.

[@krazziee2000]

good lesson, thanks

[@joepie221]

Glad you liked it!

[@SuperAWaC]

re: spindle brake, a lot of newer bridgeports (post-2015) changed something, and the brake likes to stick a lot more than on older machines, so sometimes it won't return itself to off. they added a page in the manual about it.

[@joepie221]

Make sure the lever stays flat when you use it. Some cam designs are very sensitive.

[@turningpoint6643]

@@joepie221 Not all the Bpt clones allow the brake lever to be locked like you showed. Mine was built by Bemato in Taiwan and it's brake lever can't be cam locked to hold the brake in the on position. Why they neglected to add that simple feature seems real odd to me.

[@mikenixon9164]

Nice fixture.

[@jpwipeout99]

Thank you it is so hard to find a video that talks about this. I have an issue With my Bridgeport where you turn the auto feed on and off. I have also had to head toward apart to replace the bearings so I know there was nothing in the way everything works properly. Do I need to shift it into neutral or something and try to put it into the opposition? It is a manual Bridgeport

[@joepie221]

As I recall, that knob can be tempermental. A little wiggle and they usually cooperate. be gentle. Make sure you pull out on any black ball knob to disengage the pin.

[@russelldold4827]

As usual, a very clear walkthrough of a very versatile machine. If I saw correctly, your machine is not bolted to the floor. Is there any danger of toppling the machine when the head is extended to its extremities?

[@joepie221]

Thanks. The machine mass still remains very central, but when the table is extended and a heavy part is up, the machine should be bolted to the floor. I have seen them lift.

[@rescobar8572]

Hey Amigo Joe! Great overview video! Still have the small handwheel on my Bridgeport! I think it's a aftermarket but I don't think I've ever used it either. I was wondering if your machine came with the x axis powerfeed installed or did you do the install?

[@joepie221]

I ordered it with it installed.

[@rescobar8572]

@@joepie221 I miss Enco. They had incredible pricing on their products. I guess its what led to MSC buying them out.

[@CJ-ty8sv]

Although many have beat me to it but in case someone doesn't know and doesn't scroll low enough, the feed rate sitting on the left side of the head is usually .0015", .003" and .006" feed rate per rev (i.e., how much the quill moves per rev of the spindle). There are some rare machines that have a different feed rate but probably 90+ % of the Bridgeport and clones are those mentioned rates per rev.

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@okflyer777]

Hey Joe: with so much weight on the table, would you be concerned about the machines lateral stability with the turret swung out to one side and the table moved in X to same side? I was doing a job recently just like that and wondered if the mill could get to nearly tipping over to one side if too much weight got offset. ?? Thx!

[@randyreddig5239]

Bill, the manual is very clear, the machine should be bolted down.... If you don't want to bolt it down I've seen guys make outriggers with leveling feet.... It raises the machine a couple inches but improves the stability greatly..

[@okflyer777]

@@randyreddig5239 Thanks Randy. Good to know!

[@banadams9555]

The handles on Kurt vises (and I assume most others) are a 3/4" hex which will fit the draw bar and all the bolts on the head of the machine, so you don't need to keep a separate wrench at the machine.

[@joepie221]

The 3 arm speed handle saves time "unloosening" the drawbar. Smack it and watch it spin.

[@dmcllc2088]

Hey Joe,, Nice vids been watching you for years,, Been using many of your tips and tricks. (thank you) I'm a tool shop machinist and use several Bridgeport’s with the EZ Trak cnc controls and kurt auto draw bars on them,, just wondering if you are familiar with the EZ Trak controls? We have excellent results and hold 0.005 with them.. super tough machines. Thanks Much. -K

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

Camera's just not cooperating today, is it. Oh well, still a TREMENDOUSLY helpful video for me! Thanks.

[@joepie221]

I was leaning on the front telephoto control and didn't realize it. Sorry about that.

[@mainstreetmachineworks651]

Regarding the outrigger setup, do you think that the thickness of the aluminum plates used would make a difference in rigidity? What is a good minimum thickness? I’m definitely going to be making one. I was just curious about thickness affecting rigidity. Thanks!

[@joepie221]

For something like that, Go with 1".

[@mainstreetmachineworks651]

Joe Pieczynski awesome! Thanks for the reply, I will be getting on it this week

[@imv5197]

Thats a good machine, the first one i operated.

[@joepie221]

I like it. Its held up very well.

[@bbumpy4523]

I've been "familiar" with these mills for nearly 30 years, and yet you still managed to teach me a couple things. First, I never realized the Brake Lever for the Spindle had a cam lock on it. And I'm happy to learn that my power feed direction lever/knob isn't the only one that's been hit with a hammer on the upswing while seating a part. Not to brag, but mine runs out a bit worse than yours. :-) You mentioned that the bolts that secure the ram movement are only snugged down. Do you happen to have a torque spec for those & the bolts that lock the pitch & roll of the head. I snapped one of the 3 pitch lock bolts off a few weeks ago.....I may be tightening it a bit too much.

[@joepie221]

I bet a lot of old guys didn't know the brake lever cams. You're not alone. I don't have a torque spec for the bolts, but weight is your friend up top. If you are really banging hard on a cut all the time, getting a spec may be worth checking into.

[@turningpoint6643]

@@joepie221 I've seen 40-50 ft. lbs mentioned for the head bolts that attach the head to the knuckle assembly. Some who know these types of mills real well on the PM forums state that going past those torque numbers will distort the head castings spindle and bearing bores. For the ram then just tight enough for it to not move is all you need. And about 50 ft. lbs on the turrett rotation locking bolts. One trick I borrowed off that Practical Machinist forum is once the tilt / nod is adjusted and the spindle is trammed true to the table you should then back those tilt / nod worms off to there neutral position so they can be moved back and forth with your fingers with the backlash in either direction. Leaving them pre loaded after making tram adjustments is what helps the head to slowly move out of tram due to normal cutting loads and vibrations. It's not much movement, but a few 10ths at the worm locations equals a couple of thou out at the spindle. Since I started doing that the head stays put a whole lot longer imo.

[@pamrides]

@@turningpoint6643, good point on the worm screws, mine is really sensitive about that

[@mikedigirolamo3991]

With the head offset as shown in this video, is there any chance you are getting top-heavy to the point where the machine could become unstable? Because you are doing head offsetting, is it necessary to have this machine bolted to the floor? Most folks I know have leveled their machines but not necessarily bolted them to the floor. Please share your practical views on the matter.

[@joepie221]

This is a very good point. Normally, the mass of the machine is sufficient to keep the machine steady. If you place a large rotary table or part close to the max weight suggested, a tipping danger will increase if the machine is not bolted to the floor. I have seen them tip over, but only with the table extended all the way out and a huge mold body on the very end. Nobody was injured, but it made a heck of a thump and ruined the machine.

[@Steelcrafted]

You mentioned that the return spring on your machine is wound pretty tight ...to your knowledge is there a way to adjust that spring tension?? My 10x50 Acra mill is sorta limp in that regard lol.... doesn't return to top as fast as I'd like....

[@RambozoClown]

Yes the clock spring is adjustable and replaceable if it has lost it's power. The ring under the quill handle is where to access that. Be careful as it can bite you, and lock the quill so it doesn't fall while working on it.

[@guyloughridge4628]

Is leveling and / or bolting the mill to the floor an important step before using a mill? Currently my mill (a Bridgeport clone) has some vibrations that can be felt while milling. These vibrations translate into the parts that are being milled. I noticed that you are using shims and no bolts under your mill.

[@waltermayer3425]

The low medium high on the quill power feed on Bridgeport mills is a specific feed per revolutions don’t quote me but I believe it is .0015 .003 and .005 per rev

[@pontoonrob7948]

Awesome, thanks

[@igorbarbarossa]

Hey Joe, any chance you can demonstrate how to tighten the gibs on this machine? Especially the y axis. Thanks

[@zackeudy6236]

It's under the table. You'll see it.

[@paladin44]

@@zackeudy6236 yeah but the feel... i had to assembly my brodgeport when i got it 2-3 months ago and i'm still unsure of my gib and backlash settings. always worry about having them too tight.

[@mslucass]

I have a mini mill and would love to know the tightness on the gibbs. How many nm do you put on them

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Thanks Joe, my mill shows up Friday. This couldn't have been better timed. Now if you had an instructional video on how to install the power feeds, a DRO and a power draw bar, I'd be all set LOL. One question, is your mill bolted to the floor, and if not (I didn't see it) is there any risk of it tipping over by rotating the head?

[@joepie221]

Hi Barry. No, my machine is not bolted down. Most of my work is small or light, so its not a problem. if you plan to have the 'Big 3" conditions exist 1. swing head, 2. extend table, and 3 heavy part, you may wish to bolt it down. I've seen them tip over. It makes a heck of a thump.

[@robertblackman3451]

Great video, if you didn't answer my questions your comment section covered it!

[@rogerrascal8632]

Hi Joe, I have a JET brand mill which looks to be a direct copy of a Bridgeport. Mine has NT30 taper, not an R8 collet like yours where I use an ER32 collet chuck, now to my question...you said put side load on your bit before tightening your collet, why is that and do I need to do that with ER collets? Thanks for you great videos !

[@wilsont6651]

I believe that the reason Joe was putting the side load on the endmill was just to prevent it from falling out of the collet and damaging the cutter. Side load shouldn't affect the alignment within the collet.

[@joepie221]

Wilson T is correct. Its a habit I have developed over the years to force a slight bind between the tool and collet to keep everything together when snugging it up prior to the final torque. Nothing is worse than a new end mill slipping out of a collet and knocking off those perfect corners.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Another taste of Pieczynski gold. Fantastic.

[@joepie221]

Thank you

[@cbfinley4467]

If I remember correctly the feed is ipr, 1.5, 3, 6 thousandths per rev

[@shannonstebbens6992]

The Power Down Feed Speeds on my Bridgeport clone mill are: Right position .003 per rev, Middle position .015 per rev & Left position .006 per rev.; these are the amounts of vertical down travel per revolution of the machine. My mill is an EISEN 9X49 made in Taiwan.

[@shannonstebbens6992]

I should have said Feed Speeds - Up or Down

[@schmidtyyt]

Shannon; I think you may have missed a zero when you typed ".015". Bridgeports and the clones I've seen are .0015; .003; .006

[@shannonstebbens6992]

@@schmidtyyt You are correct about the missed zero.....

[@peteengard9966]

Is your machine securely bolted to the floor? It must be to angle the head that far. I have seen shops where the machines are on just adjustment feet. Accidents waiting to happen.

[@joepie221]

Mine is not. Swinging a head can be made worse when the table is also extended to a limit with a heavy part.

[@muddkipp_1]

What is better for the machine? Running high rpm's in low gear or low rpm's in high gear. Curious.