Machining Second End 17- 4PH H1025 Part

[@cnyjody9650]

Displaying cam simulation & actual machining at the same time is awsome. I hope to see more of it. Always great content!

[@paulmace7910]

This is a good example of why CNC is not as simple as doing the program and hitting cycle start. You have to be a machinist and understand how your tools behave and then you have to understand how the computer behaves. Good job. Thanks for sharing.

[@Brentiannoli]

Peter, excellent video as always. I wanted to let you know I suggest to all of my operators that they watch some of your videos. You are excellent at the craft, I have a lot of respect for you. Thank you for sharing.

[@EdgePrecision]

Cool, thanks

[@AbbeyRoad69147]

Yes. The spring pass / final pass / rough pass explanation is so very true. Getting tenths tolerances is a black art.

[@maverickbaitsmb7790]

hi Pete i have never had any experience of using a lathe my brother has a small Myford lathe he was an apprentice toolmaker when he was very young and i need parts turned all the time for one project or another i have watched many of your videos and have learnt so so much from you and the youtube community and i know turn most of the parts i need from only ever watching youtube you inspire me to do this many thanks dave

[@jonwatte4293]

I like the simulation play along. It's an interesting different view!

[@skfh3]

Thanks so much for putting these up. It has given me the confidence to get a multitasking lathe. Please keep putting out as much as you can:)

[@johnlawler1626]

Hi mate, great video thanks for sharing, I also found that it helped me with bar deflection is to program a spring pass along the same profile then back the offset off for the test cut ,true precision means doing whatever it takes 👍

[@SR-ml4dn]

Thanks Peter for the video, interesting video and always full of hints and knowledge. My machining skills are more than 30 years old and at that time we only could dream about silent Boring bars like the Sandvik. Even ordinary boring bars does not have stiffness enough to eliminating sprigpass. My approach when the tolerance is 0.01 mm. was to use 3 final cuts where each cut debt was 1/8 of the nose radius of the tool. Use radius 0.4 mm gives 0.05 mm debt or 0.1 mm in diameter. Making a hole for Ø25 H7 (Max 0.021 mm, Min 0.0 mm) and the we must try to be in the center tolerance eg. 0.01 mm above Ø25 mm. Roughing to 24.7 mm cool down the object and change a boring bar with new inserts to R0.4 make 0.1 mm "Final cut" with minor correction for each pass. Newer missed a part but it was slow. In stainless steel it was better to avoid spring passes, the surface could be terrible, like the insert did not have enough cutting debt to make a stable chip. So it was better to calculate with minimum 0.1 mm in diameter as minimum.

[@WillemvanLonden]

I like the animations. It is helpful to understand what is being done.

[@manfredweberhofer6433]

Actually never had to do a Blunt start. Neather have I heard off it before. Thanks for the knowledge. 🤝❤

[@EdgePrecision]

It's quite a common thing in oilfield parts. Mostly done on Acme threads.

[@punkdudex69]

Hey Peter, thank you for sharing your process and mindset. I just found your channel and do like the content I have seen so far. I wanted to comment on the blunt thread that I see you milling. I have recently been truncating blunt threads using a G32 thread turning cycle with a grove tool to a specified depth with much success. I also was turning 17-4 with that process.

[@reinierwelgemoed8171]

I love the CAM animation to show what the software is showing at the same time as machining.

[@jimsvideos7201]

Hey, what great timing! I hope you're done for the long weekend and have something relaxing to do now that it's nice out again!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very good job peter..thanks for your time

[@Horus9339]

Thank you Sir, another information filled video. Have a great weekend.

[@theessexhunter1305]

That cad vid is the NUTS Peter. Happy Easter from the UK

[@franklinblazek25]

We use those silent bars all the time at work for deep bottle bores. Sandvik sells one that is carbide and the other half is silent for real deep bores. They are a great tool but you’re right deflection is a problem that one must understand. They call that blunt start a higbee this eliminates the chance of cross threading. I would say more for finer pinched threads. I don’t think you could ever cross thread a amce.

[@PaulPassarelli]

I don't know exactly what it was, but there is something about this video that made me ask the rhetorical question: Q: What's the difference between a machinist & a machine shop owner? A: The machinist gets paid by the hour, the shop owner gets paid by the part. --- or --- A: The the machinist has the luxury of time, shop owner still has too settle for piece work.

[@richardbradley961]

THANK YOU , WELL EXPLAINED. REGARDS RICHARD.

[@poetac15]

I learned a lot from this. Thanks for posting!

[@rolandolievanoagudelo.5112]

Buen trabajo maestro muy bueno 👍

[@Mokkisjeva]

Run two finish cuts just deep enough to measure (25mm/1"), put offset to where it should be to reach correct size and run two complete finish passes. Been doing this for years and it's repeatable within 0.02mm every time. IF you should find yourself undersize (on very tight tolerance) run a 3rd pass and you're spot on. Only downside is if you use a steady rest you won't pick up on any taper caused by missaligned steady rest.

[@bcbloc02]

Ever done much with floating blade reamers for precise hole sizes?

[@EdgePrecision]

Are you referring to adjustable hand reamers? If so these are one of my least favorite tools. I would not try to power drive one. I think they do have a place when used by hand. Just kind of scraping the hole out a little at a time. The order of my preference sort of goes like this. Depending on the tooling I have. #1 Boring, #2 Boring/roller burnish (For size and finish. maybe the best if I have the tooling.), #3 Reaming/honing or roller burnish after ream, #4 Reaming alone, #5 adjusting reamer, #6 Hand adjustable reamer. A reamer sometimes is the best way depending on the size/material and how many holes. But if possible. I would rather bore. It is easier to guarantee size and finish. It does take more time than a reamer.

[@geoffgreenhalgh3553]

We call it half threading in the UK. It makes it easier for the male to couple up.

[@Josephe998]

Thanks for the video. Would you be able to show an example of the iso code how to blunt start the thread. We mainly program mazaks in mazatrol. Would be interested to see how this program looks like using live tooling.Thanks.

[@jobkneppers]

Peter, what material is the silent bar made from? I experience a lot of flex on steel bars and my approach is exactly the same as yours. Using carbide shanks I don't experience this problem as much. I'm a prototype shop so when parts get expensive I creep up to the inner dimensions anyhow. Great videos to watch. Especially with the simulation showing too. I wish I would have room and money for such a machine. It's a real beast. One additional question with probably an intimidating answer for me; how much time did you spend on the design and build of the custom groove measuring device? It turned out great by the way. Thank you for sharing all your great work and experience. It's learning and enjoying combined for me. I like your style! Stay safe and all the best! Job

[@jasonruch3529]

Man I love that mazak!

[@Cheeta666]

Nice video Peter! I remember have seen in one of your videos how you align your automatic steady rest, but i cant get to find it back, it would be nice to see you do that , its a little Tricky and i cant see what im doing wrong while aligning mine

[@EdgePrecision]

The easiest way to get a rough alignment. Is to mount a piece of stock between centers. Take a turning tool and turn a area where the steady rest jaws will clamp on. Now losen the bolts that mount the steady rest to its mount and back off any adjust screws. Now close the steady rest on that turned diameter. Then tighten the bolts. Now put a dial indicator on the top and side of the part. If you have two of them. Open the steady rest. Zero the indicators. Than close the steady. Ideally you should see no change in the indicators between open and close. If not, back off the steady’s mounting screws just enough so you can move it with the adjust screws. Adjust them a little at a time until you see no chance between open and close. Then tighten the mounts screws and check it again. You should be there.

[@Cheeta666]

@@EdgePrecision thks!

[@FuzzyPanda53]

Great work 👍

[@taylorlooney1]

You need some silent tool milling attachments? Have a slew of them I bought at an auction from Baker Hughes in OKC.

[@davidcolwill860]

Could some of the deflection on the finish pass be coolant pressure? I've never used through coolant tools so am not sure how the coolant comes out. Thanks for another informative video!

[@EdgePrecision]

I don't think so. I have never noticed a difference from that. It comes out at a angle hitting the insert first.

[@steve_edm]

If you start your thread exactly a a multiple of the thread pitch from Z0.0 the thread should start at C0.0 on the part edge?

[@EdgePrecision]

Not necessarily. It depends on the Z offset of the parts end in relation to the spindle's encoder marker used for the threading. If that makes sense. So wherever my C zero and Z zero for my fixture offset may not coincide with that. That's why I put the blunt start on it's own fixture offset. That way (as I said in the video) I can align the blunt start to the thread.

[@zjhouse]

Looks like your TSC seals are leaking? Great video as always!

[@EdgePrecision]

If you are referring to the bubbling around the spindle. There is a air purge always coming out of the spindle to keep out debris. Also with some tool holders the HP coolant does bleed out around the tool. This is normal.

[@anders98]

Have you tried using Sandvik's 3 pass method for finish boring? It is supposed to calculate and compensate for the deflection of the tool. Another question; Did you have any success using Fusion with your Integrex? Autodesk has added a ton of new Mazak posts and machine simulation models, i would imagine one of the 8 Integrex posts they have would work for your machine? Keep up the good work on the videos, as a young CNC machinist and programmer i have learned a ton from your videos 😁

[@EdgePrecision]

I don't really know about Sandvik's 3 pass method. But essentially I am using a 3 pass method here. Take one first larger rough/finish cut. The bar gets deflected the most. This left .014" in the video. Then a second pass moving out roughly half the way to the finish. In the video .008". But this cut left only .004" in the video. So it really took .010" instead of .008" offset change. So .004" to go I took .0032" Third and final pass. This came to size. I didn't say this in the video. But I tried to run one part where I didn't change the offset on the finish bar from the previous part. I just ran it. On the first pass it cut .002" under the size. Now in theory I could jus run it again. But if I did that it would cut oversize. Because the .002" left was smaller than the .004" of the last pass that brought it to size. It would probably cut .001" over my target size. I didn't do this but you see what I mean. As far using Fusion for the Mazak. Sense I got Esprit working, I really haven't tried to use Fusion for it. I may investigate that further in the future, I don't know.

[@maloyaircraft1174]

Could you run a macro on the integrex to undercut and measure with the probe then execute another pass in small increments until reaching desired ID?

[@EdgePrecision]

I could be possible. But the probe can only measure so deep. Also on this version of the Integrex it isn’t really possible to measure a bore like this very accurately. Because the machine only has -10 mm of X axis travel. So you really probe the bottom of a bore this large.

[@hskmakinamuhendislik]

I will cut this type material AISI 630 soon.Can you give some advise? Cutting tool quality, Vc and feedrate ? Thank You

[@EdgePrecision]

It sort of depends on the heat treatment. It actually machines better if it's heat treated than annealed. It is not difficult to machine. I machine it about the same as commercial HT 4340 steel. Rough around 350-400 surface feet and around .012"-.015" per rev feed (Turning) and finish at 400-450 at .005" feed. At H900 is where you might have to slow down things a little. At that HT it can be around 43 Rc. Hardness. I use mostly carbide tools. Except maybe a HSCo spade drills (say Allied spades). Them I run at around 65 SFM at around .004-.006" per rev.

[@metlmuncher]

Sneaking up on it

[@jdolecki100]

So if you have to build special tools to check your measurements how is the customer going to QC it?

[@EdgePrecision]

If they have the part on the surface plate in a V block. They can check it with a electronic height using a disk probe to get into the grooves.

[@artmckay6704]

Peter, I don't know how old your machine is but isn't it, and the spindle - especially, designed so that critical parts never actually touch and, thus, the accuracy never degrades and the expensive parts never wear? Is that still uncommon or is it just par for the course? Not being a pro, I really don't know....... Thanks for your extra work to share machining with the rest of us! :)

[@EdgePrecision]

Everything runs on bearings that have lubrication systems. If all that is properly maintained the accuracy should also be maintained. But everything wears out in time.

[@artmckay6704]

@@EdgePrecision Thanks!

[@gilbertotejeda4167]

What psi in that Mazak

[@WilliamTMusil]

Hiya Peter

[@Dylise]

I love the videos, your great at what you do. I set up Hardinge Twin Turn 65 CNC Lathes. Upper and Lower Turret, 2 spindles, 2 programs, so lots of wait codes and stuff. Your skill level definitely surpasses mine and I learn from you all the time, so thanks! I'm here for a specific question though. Can you please tell me how, or what that overlay is called of the tools cutting in the top left? I am very interested in that, because I work in a shop with a lot of guys that are operators, and they want to learn more, but it really helps to have visual stuff like that. I feel like I could really get through to a lot of them with visuals of tools cutting while simultaneously showing them which line of code is telling the tools to do what. If you see this, and if possible, can I please know the name of the software, or how you do it? Take care and keep the good content coming!

[@EdgePrecision]

It’s just a screen shot of the simulation in my cam software. The cam software is Esprit TNG.

[@Dylise]

@@EdgePrecision oh ok, I see. Where I work, everyone just writes the lathe programs by hand, and if it's tricky numbers we have partmaker to figure out angles and stuff, so I'm not versed in that stuff. I'm going to look into it now though. Thanks for the reply and info. Much appreciated. Heading to google to check out Esprit TNG! Peace!

[@hugohugo6445]

profession...

[@MetalMetz88]

Probably best to rough od, finish all internals, then finish od

[@EdgePrecision]

In this case the OD size is only a + - .005" tolerance. So I wasn't to worried about it. Also the ID was already roughed to .100" of the finished size from the material prep operation. So there was very little material being removed. But you are correct if I was drilling it on this operation. I would have roughed everything. Then finished.

[@MetalMetz88]

Your coolant concentration looks high like 8%

[@EdgePrecision]

Actually 11% but this is the recommended concentration. I also prefer a higher concentration because of the materials I machine.