Developing Color Film at Home - Everything You Need to Know

[@eddyexpo]

Best tutorial on YT, even after 5yrs later…thanx

[@i3aluchi]

The amount of effort and thought put in making this video is quite remarkable. I watched this video a few times. Not only informative, but it also produces confidence which is much needed when processing C41 film for the first time. Thank you Mac for such an amazing video.

[@alpineflora586]

Just home-developed and home-scanned my very first roll of 120 using this method and cinestill's at-home kit. Thank you, Mac! You're the man.

[@ChrisLawrence]

About to develop my very first roll of film ever today. Wanted to say thank you. This video is staying near me the whole time. Much appreciated Mac!

[@litttlewolf]

Your video is the only one that made me feel confident to develop film at home. I appreciate it so much. Im Glad you did put it out.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad I could help!

[@justrock28]

I never comment under a video but this helped me so much and took my fear of doing something wrong! Great video

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@homesteadingwithsilkiechic678]

Love the video could you please give me total cost of everything needed or that was in discription thank you

[@juans8356]

I used to work as a photo specialist at a Walgreens while we still processed film in house. This is an excellent tutorial. Brings back a lot of fond memories.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@GirdHerd]

Mac, I know this comment is being posted 5 years later but thought I would post it anyway. An excellent in-depth "how to" video for any beginner. Just one comment and one suggestion. First, the comment, glad you use Photo Flo on your color negatives. You're the only KZbinr I've seen using it on color film. Second, the suggestion, when loading film using a changing bag, use a leader retrieval tool to pull out the film leader, cut the film leader off and start the film on the plastic spool BEFORE placing in the changing bag. That first few inches of film was already exposed to light when loading it into the camera and does not have any images on it so it's safe to do that procedure in daylight. This procedure eliminates the hardest part of loading film in a changing bag.

[@natecrossland3874]

Thanks for that suggestion! I was thinking that would be an okay way to do it. Quite literally sitting here, just before my first processing attempt, with a leader retriever in hand wondering if I can get away with that. Cheers! And thanks Mac!

[@b6983832]

This is just the beginning, developing the film. In my opinion the most interesting part is printing your pictures. It requires a little practice, but it is totally possible to print color papers by hand in a home darkroom. In my opinion, if you use film, you should also make your prints in the analog way, with an optical enlarger.

[@klk1900]

I’ve been doing it 5yrs now and I completely agree with you. I’ve did some weird stuff on accident and I only messed the first test roll up because My first canister was one I could get next day shipping and it allowed the film to collapse on its self so it didn’t contact the developer or any fluid. But after I got my auto loading reel I’ve never screwed another one up. So yes this guy is 100% right don’t be afraid I’ve had the water temp 10-13deg off my first batches when I just used a tub of water and manual thermometer and I would add more hot water to the bucket. After 2 times I figured out that way of maintaining it. So you don’t even need fancy equipment. Just the biggest and easiest mistake is loading the film on a cheap take up reel. If it’s a cheap one the film doesn’t even fit it and it comes out of the slots. I recommend the auto loading one you slide the tab in and crank it and it sucks it on. I had got one for $5 cheaper because I could get it the next day the one that cost more was going to take 3 days because a back order. Just do yourself a favor and wait the few extra days if you run into that same problem. The cheap one the 35mm film the reel was like 33mm or less and it collapsed film in several spots.

[@photonfantastic]

This is a crazy good video. Thank you, Mac! Easy on the Photo-Flo, though. So happy that I’ve found this channel.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@michaelsingJiuJitsu]

I use like 12 drops of photo flo and I've been told thats too much lol Watching Mac splash it in there... He's gone completely mad lol

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

I used to do color slides back in the 70s. I love how easy you flow and work. Thanks for all the tips. I was so uptight and crazy. Way more chems, glass thermometers and hot water in a kettle. Getting back at it in retirement . Bang!

[@fatherdeha]

Finally a video that is completely thorough… I know it’s super long but it’s so worth it just to be sure of everything you need to know

[@kylemccourt663]

Great video for getting people jazzes up to develop their own film! People should be aware though that inaccurate temp is not a big deal for those who choose to scan. The scanner hides inconsistences that you surely would not want to deal with as a dark room printer. It makes me laugh when people sing the praises of Kodak Gold that has even been home processed. I would just put them in the darkroom once with that stuff and they would soon be sending their Fuji film off the the lab:) I have obviously spent too many years as a commercial photographer and professional photofinisher.

[@decisive.moment1634]

Thank you so much for doing this! I watched it about 3-4 times in the last couple months before I finally got the courage to finally try it. Best piece of advice I got from it is not to worry too much if you mess up a little bit (though I did try to be as precise as possible). The lid popped off during an inversion cycle and blix got everywhere + it threw off my timers. I probably would’ve panicked if you didn’t share that helpful bit of advice about taking it easy. The negatives still came out great! This was the best tutorial I’ve seen, especially for a beginner like me. Definitely appreciate the time you took to make this video!

[@rogerwalker3201]

Thank you so very much for this video. I’ve already purchased the kit, but I’ve been procrastinating on developing my two rolls of color film, mainly on a lack of confidence in being successful. Now, thanks to you, I’m ready a run through the gauntlet, as it were.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad it was helpful!

[@carlmcneill1139]

Everyone told me that black and white was easier. I think it's because you can use it at room temperature. You're right about all the variables. Not only do you have different types of b&w film that give you different grain and cobras contrast you have different developers. Every developer will effect how the grain and contrast looks. And then you have the developing time based on the type of film andtype of chemicals but also the temperature. And then there's different techniques like under exposing the film and over developing it or over exposing it and under developing. You mentored making sure the funnel lid was on the tank and double checking it. I developed my second roll of film a few days ago. I had just finished up with the developer and was pouring it out when the lid came off and the reel almost fell out of the tank. I was panicking. Then I remembered that the developer had already done it's job but u still wasn't sure how things would turn out. I put the lid back on and poured the fixer in and went on. In the end everything came out ok. My first try at developing didn't go well. I was using a steel reel and I had the film on too tight on one side. The film was touching itself on that side. Chemicals weren't able to make contact with that side. I only had 4 or 5 frames come out ok and several half frames. I ordered a Patterson tank after that. I noticed that you don't use a stop bag. You use water instead. That's what I'm doing with b&w film. I have 2 rolls of portra 160 that I need to develop. I'm going to order a c-41 kit soon and start developing color film.

[@noose7613]

finally a video that shows you how to do EVERYTHING

[@MacShootsFilm]

Hah! Right?! That's why I made this tutorial. I appreciate the feedback.

[@izzyescandon4300]

Can’t tell you how much you helped me with this one. Much appreciated.

[@Cocytus]

Very good video. I personally use a blacked out room with night vision binoculars. I never really took to the Dark Room Bag thing. I like to be able to see with my eyes, rather than "see" with my hands, if that makes sense.

[@Jack-qn6vy]

Thanks for this. Old timer black and white developer, getting ready for first color developing experience. I also love mystery movies: The case of the missing shirt!

[@emorilong2818]

this is the most in depth video I’ve seen thank you so so so much!!!

[@Rico-ns5dt]

My only comments lol are damn I never seen someone rip a 35mm canister apart haha. The tab at the beginning of the roll is called the leader. If that matters. Lol that's a lot of photoflo Annnnnnnd... I really love your videos. I've seen almost all if them already since yesterday. Laying down all weekend even have 120 4ooh and ultrafine extreme on it's way today for my mat-124g. Thanks for sharing your passion. Thanks to Mary as well, for any patience or sacrifice that allows you to share your experiences with us. As well as her full support I'm sure.

[@MacShootsFilm]

I love tearing those canisters apart! Stress relief. LOL! Thanks for watching!

[@prpla145]

Fantastik! I've never had a clearer explanation than this... Congratulations!

[@spiritwalker6153]

I am very glad you mentioned water quality because I live in an area of the country where the water is hard and I am worried that will affect the chemistry. This is a very well thought out video/tutorial. Well done.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Great comment!! Maybe consider using filtered water for the final rinse because thats when it matters the most. The harder water the more sediments will be left over when the film is drying. Good luck!

[@spiritwalker6153]

@@MacShootsFilm I shall try to remember that. I tried developing a roll this past weekend with very limited success. I think I missed a step or two or maybe didn't agitate enough. I use the Lab box for my processing and it is easy to forget something. I will try again.

[@UncleDon226]

I realized I spent almost $700 on development services this year, so I figured it's probably time to start at-home development. Thank you for breaking it all down for a novice like me.

[@MacShootsFilm]

We all start from novice! Developing your own is the best way to save money.

[@staha]

By far the best and most detailed developing video I've seen... big thumbs up! waiting for my Cinestill powder kit to get delivered! Can't wait. Thanks for the video.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks so much for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@staha]

@@MacShootsFilm just so you know, I watched every minute of it and it's awesome. Received my powder kit and coming back to review the video. Thanks a million again for doing this.

[@jgarcia8776]

Just ordered the CineStill kit with everything I'm so excited, thank you for this informative video.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Hope you enjoy it!

[@lcdmvdoact]

The BEST VIDEO on C41 Process....PERIOD

[@jerry.cray_II]

I followed along with this video step-by-step. I didn’t want to mess up lol. So glad I had images at the end! Now I just have to scan on the v600.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Easier than it seems, huh? Gladd you have images. LOL. Cant wait to see the scans!

[@ltmltm4945]

Hey would you happen to know if I can use the v600 scanner along with a MacBook Air??

[@wilbmoore]

Mac this was excellent bro. Concise and to the point.

[@pabloheimplatz]

Thank you! I develop some black and white film at home and had some worries so I don't want to try colour film. But you tipps are awesome and I order everything to try it myself. So than you very much to encourage me in this process! 🎞

[@qnetx]

Great job Mac! I develop quite a bit of BW and color film and use the FPP powder for color. My work flow is similar although I don't have the fancy water heater that you do. I also cross process E-6 transparency film in the C-41 chemicals with good results. By the way, for less than $2 you can buy a pack of 40 clothes pins that I use for hanging the film instead of tape and pennies.

[@HerfingPug]

Bloody marvellous. Thanks Mac.

[@chriszietz1236]

I love your attitude, and really enjoyed this video. Thanks for putting this out.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@CalumetVideo]

Love his attitude! Not some stuck up kid!

[@SuperAce780]

developing film for the first time this weekend and I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right with my cinestil liquid kit! thank you so so much.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad it helped!

[@SuperAce780]

Mac Shoots Film it sure did - the pictures came out awesome! :)

[@kenblair2538]

Thanks for the great vlog, Mac . Been doing B&W for some time, been looking into this C 41 process and using Cinestill. Got temperature controller on the way, now to order the chems. KB.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Great to hear!

[@alanstanway6118]

Maybe it was long but you did a great job for anyone who wants to have a go at C41 home processing. I've lost count of how many films I processed for customers when I had a minilab from Gretag, now sadly a company no longer in existence. Keep up the good work!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thank you!

[@timothylarson3558]

Super informative! Glad to find out about the Cinestill TCS-1000. Thanks for making a quality lengthy video.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@mplabs23]

Search vor "sous vide cooker" on aliexpress. Same product, different price ;)

[@JonasWeckschmied]

Great video! Just one little thing: C41 Stabilizer is basically just Photoflo (and a little bit of Hexamine), so your last step is really not necessary

[@stevek8829]

Used the Cinestill kit last week for my first try at film development. I used a sixteen years expired non-refrigerated roll and it came out fine. The best part was no dust or water spots, a problem I've been getting with commercial development lately. Note: the blix only needs to be between 75º and 105º so not at temperature sensitive if you leave it on the counter.

[@alanabaxter8113]

oh my gosh thank you SO much for this video! literally every other video left me with questions so this video was insanely helpful!!!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rickrowell8465]

I usually clip off the film leader before putting it inside the dark bag for loading on the reel. I will also clip off the corners a little bit to make it easier to load onto the reel.

[@TheSH1N1GAM1]

You spoke about this process not being overly scientific, but it reminds me a lot of working in a genetics lab haha great video! I’m definitely going to need to try this someday soon!

[@MacShootsFilm]

You should! It's so easy and very rewarding!

[@nunca_te_acostaras]

everyminute is gold on this video. Just a pro tip. watch it at 1.5 speed ;) Mac, have you tried stand developing on color film?

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@lunarcontentxplosion]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I watched the entire thing. It was super, super helpful. You made it look easy. I bought the same kit you used for the video. Thanks!!!!!! I love all your content!

[@MacShootsFilm]

omar briseno Thanks so much for watching!

[@stefanriegel9099]

Mac, that's a perfect explanation. Thanks for this video. Greetings from Germany.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thank you!

[@noahsutton3787]

Thank you so much for this video this helped so much. My question is though, how would I be able to keep the water at 102°? That’s my one really big concern

[@miracleyacht__1538]

Get a something that fits all your chemicals and fill it up with very hot water from the tab. Then you wait for it to cool down to the right temperature and then pour it in.

[@mjones410]

Great video Mac, was nice to see how the Cinestill TCS1000 works. Another tip for anyone struggling with loading the patterson reels is to get the ARISTA PREMIUM DEVELOPING REELs, Freestyle photo sells them. They fit in a paterson tank and they have over sized take up lugs for loading the film which make it much easier. So easy you can do it with your eyes closed ;)

[@Nicholasishappy]

thanks for making this video! it’s giving me the confidence to actually do my own processing!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thank you!

[@wotterdog]

Best video on developing I've seen! I'm attempting a few rolls today.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Have fun! You got this! 🙌

[@groovesme]

Pretty good share. Get some of the office binder clips they are what I've been using. Proper film clips are a bit better but hard to find these days for the better ones.

[@b6983832]

The temperature of water is not crucial when mixing liquid chemistry. It is more of an issue with powders, that may not dissolve correctly, if the water is too cold. Those accordion bottles are impossible to clean. There will be quite lot of residue in the bottle you store your color developer. And you are paying a premium price for those bottles. Buy your bottles from any store selling equipment for laboratories instead. Bottles cost almost nothing bought this way, and they are designed for chemistry. Same goes with measuring glasses, funnels, thermometers, etc. In photo stores you are paying a premium price for these. Also, the "stabilizer" in modern versions of C-41 is actually a final rinse. It is like Photo-Flo, but it contains also an antifungal and antibacterial agent to prevent mold and bacteria growing in emulsion during storage. It should not be washed off by Photo-Flo, which lacks this component. This stuff is meant for black and white only, where silver will prevent growth in the emulsion. Stabilizer, such as it was used before, for stabilizing the dyes, is no more used in C-41, but the old name remains.

[@loganmartinez6487]

Something you can do too when you are putting the roll on the wheel is to cut the film where the spool is and insert that side onto the wheel and you don’t have to cut the other side.

[@andrewortiz687]

Dud this helped a lot as far as mixing the chemistry and when to maintain what temperatures. Thanks a lot developed my first successful roll of cinestill 800t after screwing up about 4 rolls of Fuji 400

[@MacShootsFilm]

That's awesome! Congrats and welcome to the world of developing! It gets fun now! :)

[@johnirby493]

Cut the leader off the film before putting it in the changing bag. You can easily cut it off straight and round off the corners, making it easier to feed onto the film reel.

[@smokeybear390]

You should close your dev before pouring your blix. Don't worry about getting developer in the blix, worry about getting blix in your developer.

[@smokeybear390]

and it's mineral deposits not chemicals, same thing happens when you wash your car with hose water and let it dry in the sun

[@MysteryManBob]

I didn't think I'd be sitting through all fifty minutes of this but its all pretty helpful

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks so much for watching!

[@Nightwatch1986]

Very informative video Mac! I appreciate your time and dedication to making this. Stay safe brotha.

[@AdrianDoyleIreland]

Cheers not developed any film myself yet so this was super useful to see the process.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thank you!

[@AnthonyGrisier]

Very informative video. I've been thinking about delving into color developing and this helped me realize that I just might be able to pull it off.

[@MacShootsFilm]

If I can do it, you definitely can do it! :)

[@xxmtfkxx]

Great educational video!!! I've just bought a canon A1..and this really helps a lot!! Anyway what scanner do you recommend?.. thank you!..😊

[@grapeful6899]

Tauffik Hassan try the epson v600 scanner

[@boernes_bilder7194]

Great video with lots of information and great tips. Thank you for taking the time to record it.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@filmbyhari]

Most useful and thorough video ever... thanks for this!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thank you!

[@kentonjoegibsonii2211]

Excellent video dude. Im starting to get into film developing and this has been a really helpful video.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks so much for watching!

[@abriewren3013]

thank you so much for making this video-- i was so confused before, but now i think i have a chance😊

[@MacShootsFilm]

I love hearing stories like this! Film should be approachable and accessible to all. Sharing knowledge and developing at home helps us get there! Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have, Kaylyne!

[@brianselfridge2182]

I have been developing B&W film for years. Have thought many times about developing colour film but what I have read on it turned me off of it , as you put it intimidated by it. I watched your very long video and loved it, I am now looking at colour film processing, your vid was long but on the other hand showed me how easy it really is and how cheep it is, lot cheaper than black and white

[@GeoffreyEduard]

There is a much easier way to put the film on the spool. Buy yourself a film picker aka film leader retriever. Then you just get the first 3 or 4 inches film out and cut the end into an arrow shape. While still out of the bag you already slide this part onto your spool. Put this, your tank and a pair of scissors into your bag and just roll your film further on the spool. Easy breazy.

[@stephendeakin2714]

Thanks for such a detailed video. Investigating C41 process with the aim of developing XP2.

[@michaelsingJiuJitsu]

I develop xp2 using ilford ilfotec hc b&w chemistry. It turned out better than when my local lab processed it using c41 chemistry.

[@stephendeakin2714]

@@michaelsingJiuJitsu thanks for the info.

[@elmelmon]

To weigh the film down when drying instead of tape and pennies I us small magnets. Cool vid, great job! p.s. it did not feel like a long video.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@kylemccourt663]

Or just use clothespins. One clothespin at the bottom is more than enough weight. For top, put a wire through the spring of the pin, bend the wire like an "L" to prevent it from slipping off and then form a hook on the other end that goes over the curtain rod. Been doing it this way since I learned it in photography school 30 years ago.

[@loading12342000]

The TCS-1000 can go up to 125 F needed for mixing the blix or you just mixed the chemicals on a lower temperature than recommended? Sorry, I'm new to this and probably I am missing something? Cheers

[@MacShootsFilm]

loading12342000 it does go to 125, but 102F is sufficient. Thanks for watching!

[@julienlecocq9545]

Nice one ! Thanks for sharing. What quantity do you pour in ? For one 135 B/W film, I pour 37 cl of developer in, same for stop bath and fixer. How is it there ? Do you just eyeball it, or fill up the tank ? Thank you !

[@SamSilk]

Thanks Mac, this is really a complete guide for a noob like me! Have you got something similar for scanning?

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad the video helped. Right now I only have a vid on how I edit my scans. -kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJWTdaCAqLJon8U Great suggestion though! I will have one in the line up ASAP. Lots of new content coming out so make sure you're subscribed.

[@SamSilk]

@@MacShootsFilm i am! And i also clicked the bell

[@GideonSmit]

Very useful to see you go through every step. Thanks!

[@johnhan9171]

That's a lot of work you put into this video, thank you!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@lilianaornelas5152]

Mac, Great video! Will definitely do color developing at home. I saw your comment on the Plustek 8200i. Do your recommend the SE or AI? Thx!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Ai for me!

[@lilianaornelas5152]

@@MacShootsFilm thx!. I went with the SE since I edit in LR & called Plustek tech & they suggested the SE.

[@alexchapman7303]

When you finish each step, do you pour your chems back into their designated bottles and save them? Are they reusable? I watched a video earlier that when he poured his developer out it was a different color than the way it went in lol. Makes me nervous. I wouldnt want to mess up a batch

[@carlitodcreative]

Excellent Video!! Thanks mate!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Glad you liked it!

[@adamdagosto570]

Mac, I have the same kit and getting ready to try it out. I noticed you did the wash step between developer and blix. As you know this instructions do not call for this, yet, it makes a ton of sense to me to do it. Have you tried it both ways (to wash and not to wash)? Any experience you can offer there?

[@1911geek]

Be confident follow your system it works for you so no need to worry about who does what. I had mini lab kid teaching me salary custom lab tech how to, all the time I smile and and say have you memorized 80% of timing for major film in the market notch codes. E-6,C-41 and BW

[@richmatthews9344]

Thank you gif sharing, awesome stuff ❤

[@codeastronomer]

My concern is how to dispose of the chemicals later. I can't seem to find info for disposal in Singapore.

[@MiguelBricaBrac]

Great video, but I have a question. I just bought the starter color developing kit from Cinestill and the kit did not include stabilizer, but I see in your video that it is needed. Why would Cinestill omit this chemical from their starter pack?

[@MacShootsFilm]

Cinestill quotes the manufacturers statement that stabilizer is not needed in modern film emulsions. I use it just out of habit. I have developed rolls without stabilizer without any issues.

[@JonasWeckschmied]

Stabilizer is pretty much just diluted Photoflo and some antimicrobal compounds like Hexamine, which are not really necessary. The modern dyes don‘t need any additional stabilization

[@Seeattle]

Beginner here...just a simple question: I know with developing black and white film, we look at an ISO chart to see the development time. Is this just not the case for developing color film?

[@MacShootsFilm]

Correct. Color film develops for the same time regardless of ISO. One of the reasons i love color film.

[@Jimmy-tj5bm]

Thanks for the video. Seems like a lot of work and effort are put into this. 1 Questions. It seems like you are pouring the developer and the blix back in the same bottle. Are they not reusable?

[@AdamAllen]

Great vid! Ordering my supplies right now!

[@justinforpin2103]

Awesome video, Mac! Thanks!

[@haimtoeg]

This is a very good and helpful video, thank you. I haven’t developed film in 40 years, so this is a timely refresher. I’ll be using a friend’s hand-me-down sous vide machine for the temp control.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Thanks for watching!

[@Fairychild432]

I bought my first 35mm SLR recently. Cannon rebel k2. I was disappointed to find out no stores develop this type of film. Photography hobby is expensive... I took a B/W class in school. So much expensive equipment, englarger and chemicals for the prints.

[@chrisdurant50]

I've only shoot a handful of rolls and haven't gotten into home development yet but just curious. Ive seen several people using film squeegees, would that eliminate the use of the Photo-Flo by just getting rid of any water sitting on the film?

[@scotchtalks3252]

Thanks for this video! Hate writing comments on youtube, but really appreciate this video! Keep it up!

[@MacShootsFilm]

Scotch Talks thanks so much for watching!

[@sigtablang4147]

Thanks for the help! How much developing time do you add after developing a roll of film?

[@nathantablang2705]

yeah man

[@jeg569]

Thanks for the great video, now want to try developing for the first time, what do you use for scanning your negatives?

[@miracleyacht__1538]

You need to scan them. This could be done by your local camera store or you do it yourself with a flatbed scanner (200$) or if your starting out with a digital camera. Just search "how to scan film with a dslr"

[@javiersalguero1896]

Any idea on how to reduce noise on the developing process? Thanks!

[@TheMPhotography]

Thanks for demystifying color development. Maybe I will also give it a try. So far I am only doing B&W development and that one is pretty straight forward and I feel comfortable so far.

[@MacShootsFilm]

Definitely give it a try. If I can do, you for sure can! :)

[@sorinmitrea5138]

Interesting and very informative ... Could you recommend other C-41 kits similar to Cinestill CS41? Because in my area I can not find it so easy ...

[@MacShootsFilm]

Try looking for this: Unicolor Powder C-41 Film Negative Processing Kit

[@sorinmitrea5138]

@@MacShootsFilm Hmmm... Unicolor zero stock... What do you think about Tetenal Colortec © C-41 Kit? Thanks a lot!

[@waldemirqueiroz3483]

Great videos. You got a new subscriber. Do you have a video for your scanning process ?

[@MacShootsFilm]

Soon! Have a 3 vids coming out over the next 3 weeks then it's time to geek out about scanning!

[@randallstewart175]

Certainly one of the best and most detailed videos on C-41 development. My minor concern is the use of the Paterson tank, which may be the worst tank ever made for inversion processing (It leaks; it mixes too much air into the chemistry owing the poor design of its internal funnel. Better: AP.)

[@randallstewart175]

Uses way to much Photoflo: waste of money and may leave scum on dried film. Just read the directions on the bottle. Here, that would have been about 4 DROPS, not his generous "slosh". About half the Kodak recommended dilution has worked well for me over 50 years.

[@randallstewart175]

Just rewatched this and noted a significant error which I missed originally. He is using the mixed stabilizer after wash, then doing a further bath of Phioto-Flo. The problem is that the Photo-flo bath will wash out any benefit of the stabilizer, which is meant to be the final solution for the film before it dries. To do this correctly, you just use distilled water to mix up the stablizer, then add about 2 m,l of Photo-Flo per liter of prepared stabilizer (about half the Kodak recommended amount). After wash, use this stabilizer as normal, and you are done while getting the benefits of both the final distilled water and Photo-Flo soak. Hang film to dry. (Using too strong a concentrate of Photo-flo as he does in the video will actually slow down the drying process.)

[@medallasipod]

This would be my first time in developing color and I have a question, does the ASA of the film matters here just like in W&B?

[@aaronpatrick4190]

Just tried following this tutorial and I fucked up by putting the stabilizer in first before the developer, I was distracted watching the vid and didn't pay attention to what bottle I pulled out. RIP to that roll of film, but great tutorial. Do you know if because I already heated my developer and Blix if I'll need to extend the time processing? I won't attempt to develop until you reply as I need that question answered, thanks so much in advance.