Mains Voltage LED (and how NOT to handle mains voltage!)

Testing a mains voltage LED from China. This one is rated 220V and 20W. It really can be connected directly to AC mains with no LED driver. 30W and 50W versions are also available. In the listings it's called "smart IC" or "integrated driver" or "driverless" COB LED.
WARNING:
-Mains voltage is very dangerous.
-Risk of deadly electric shock.
-Never try to do this!
-This video shows very inappropriate handling of mains voltage!
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/ diodegonewild
My Instagram:
/ savage_danyk

[@FrancescoOlivieri001]

"High resistor"= my body Next level LIFE hacks 👌

[@jizburg]

@@cahaya2336 well. its only 20w but yes its very much a bad thing to handle mains power this way XD

[@blacknoir2404]

@@cahaya2336 doesnt hurt much so long as it doesnt go across the heart. try the finger in the light socket. just make sure youre not grounded to anything

[@ketas]

2:32 resistor in series really made my day!

[@antkoos]

2:36 We can observe DiodeGoneWild in his natural habitat trying to power mains-voltage LED panel

[@andydvsn]

“Mains to breadboard interface.” ;)

[@MrPzyt]

Very common. I use it also. Quite often. :-P

[@colinkraus7139]

Only the best resistors used in this video. Awesome video man.

[@DenRowRecords]

I love your "SOMY" tv

[@jeanyvespochez]

your oscilloscope is really ... unexpected !

[@pierreuntel1970]

dat SOMY branded TV

[@xiro6]

registered trademark

[@monstercolorfunco4391]

What a good channel. Diodes and soapsud brazilians.

[@mrdummy_nl]

I thought SOMY is hided under SONY. You see it also in anime where real brands are never visible but slight renamed to SOMY or so.

[@sralismazgalis]

@@mrdummy_nl totoya

[@alphameric3786]

very educational backed by proper measurements and instrumentation such as scope and meters. good stuff for technical audience but dangerous to those who are not technical

[@fuzzybobbles]

Big Clive did a test on these. The board is aluminum with a thin layer of fiberglass. On the top of that is the copper traces for the circuits. He did an insulation test of 1000v 3 times which it easily passed. But yes, always earth the heatsink just in case. I just wish they made these with filter caps to stop the flickering.

[@theoneohmresistor]

shit power factor+shorter lifespan

[@ggesdsdsdsd]

Just get ur own capacitor, I did! It works well, I also got a external full bridge rectifer, then soldered the wire to the L an N

[@lifeai1889]

@@ggesdsdsdsd the light now runs at double the power

[@rustymotor]

Thanks for explaining the LED, seems like a well made unit considering its low price. Love your Oscilloscope, great idea to use an old TV as a display module.

[@alnicospeaker]

These can be made much more efficient by adding a dropper C on the AC-side and let its reactance limit the current, taking strain off of the linear regulators. Then simply add a 400V electrolytic (10µF+) across the DC side of the fuuull bridge rectifier for almost flicker-free light.

[@emililie2244]

Very cute oscilloscope. a video about him would be interesting. Thank you in advance

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

There are two kinds of people. Those who do things the safe way because they fear for their lives, and those who ain't got time fo dat and are just careful (or not). The most important thing about electricity is to not become part of a circuit. When you become part of a circuit, you have a bad day.

[@SauvikRoy]

"If you see me doing something, it is always an example of something you should never do!" Ok!😂😂😂

[@napnapnop]

Good explanation step by step, very educational, keep it up!!!!

[@Wekon]

Dobré video, jsi borec, vysvětluješ to srozumitelně, že i laik jako já to pochopí. Palec nahoru.

[@blg53]

Actually the LED chips will light up at a significantly less voltage than 222, it's more like 2.4 volts per chip rather than 3. At 3 volts they are at full brightness. So the "on" interval is in fact a bigger proportion of a sine curve than you indicated. But they do have the "off" periods hence the flicker.

[@DmitryKiktenko]

Your first trial resistor is awesome! Please, keep it safe, don't burn it! ;)

[@TheLightningStalker]

A capacitor on the bridge will eliminate the flicker. Inrush could be a problem though on a bridge that small. The CFL bulbs use a 0.47Ω resistor. You could probably get everything from a couple dead CFL bulbs.

[@TheLightningStalker]

Do you have any ideas on how to overcome this problem?

[@NoahNobody]

Best electrician in all of Kazakhstan. High five!

[@petibatyo]

He's from the Czech Republic.

[@arthurmead5341]

petibatyo Crimea and czech republic annexed Kazakhstan last year, keep up

[@stephanc7192]

Please do a video about that oscilloscope! Regards.

[@harrymartin1661]

You are the best! Allways interesting also with LEDs...

"My mains to breadboard interface" I am dying over here

[@lazyh-online4839]

2:18 if it has the same controller that I've seen in other tear downs you can theoretically run them without a heat sink because it will throttle the current when it gets too hot, basically current limiting and temperature limiting built in! 🤣

[@groundrail]

Great video. You helped me understand when the LEDs turned on and off. However you made a mistake calculating the efficiency. You need to use calculus and maximize the derivative of the area.

[@user-rt3xo3si7i]

Срок жизни у светодиодиодов очень маленький. Из 4 шт, вышли из строя уже 2, светили чуть больше 1000 часов! Установлен хороший радиатор и принудительное охлаждение. Не нагревались более 45град. Выброшенные деньги.

[@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797]

I wanted to build your scope, but I don't have atmega88 on hand. Can I use smth else instead? I know that atmega8 won't work because of its inferior specs, but what about atmega 328? Anyhow, I'll make sure to grab mega88 next time I order parts :)

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Atmega88PA-PU is on Ebay for about $ 1.30. You can also use the older version Atmega88-20PU. I'm not sure the Atmega328 would work, I haven't tried it.

[@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797]

DiodeGoneWild Well, I'll buy it eventually, but I wanted to play with the thing now :D Your scope is not very fast, but it is excellent for slow things. I really like how you captured discharge curve of a battery in your article. Plus I have built that battery analyzer myself, works great. Huge thanks for posting your designs!

[@umloginqualquer]

If you want to diy a scope, get an uC with very fast ADC. Or even better, get any uC and a fast external ADC chip. If you want to spend zero money and do zero soldering, there are some PC scope software which use the audio input of the computer as ADC, this might enable some 40ksps albeit at a low voltage.

[@TheLightningStalker]

The STM32 has a faster ADC but it's a bit more complicated from a programming perspective. It's still not very fast though compared to the ADCs used in oscilloscopes.

[@mrnmrn1]

THANKS man, for pointing out that DiodeGoneWild is the same guy as danyk.cz! I've never thought of that! I also used his website a lot, but eventually I forgot it. Now I'll check it regularly again. And I have a crush on that cute minimalist DSO, I'm amazed how usable it is, despite its simplicity. I'm a total dummy for programming, but I think it also must have a quite clever firmware to cram in all that into a tiny and old ATMEGA88. I'll definitely build it, I have a similar 5" Chinese CRT TV, and I'm going to build it into that. I'll also add some protection to the inputs, and a compensated, calibrated divider network for measuring higher voltages (maybe even a preamp, to increase the 0.2V/div sensitivity).

[@MertNazmiSerin]

okay the main question is how to we avoid the flickering of the led? its really makes problems on my eyes.

[@yuby985]

how did you made your 8:27 oscilloscope???

[@gabeulrickson2496]

Mide Sabic there's a video on his channel, crt into oscilloscope

[@gabeulrickson2496]

Mide Sabic kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4TGco2ImqyEmZI

[@MOtt-wu3nw]

danyk.cz/avr_osc_en.html

[@the_danksmith134]

Yeah GreatScott! made an osciloscope from a crt tv but there were still many problems.

[@EmmaHopman]

Mains to breadboard interface

[@ZillionPrey]

I was like: You are not bridging a live ac connection with your fingers are you? Yeah... That was scary :D

[@bakisha]

I don't say that SOMY oscilloscope is bad, IMHO, but even DSO150 (or even DSO138) could be useful (with voltage divider).

[@1marcelfilms]

You need to buy a 50w one and then desolder 4 of the 5 current sensing resistors. you get a 10w led but with more led chips. more lumens per watt

[@gabrielmadrid8698]

He needs a new sponsor to help him get an oscilloscope, if he can do that oscilloscope from the protoboard, imagine with a Rigol or something like that

[@leozendo3500]

Mains to breadboard converter taught me a lot.

[@juan-ro6vp]

quick but good analysis!

[@CausticCreations]

"if you see me doing something it is an example of what NOT to do....." Fucking serious man? You chase death for real.

[@simontay4851]

Do as I say, not as I do.

[@saurabhsuman8079]

Explain me !! How could he do this 2:36 .

[@juntendo6104]

current is limited by the led in series

[@josipzlk8019]

i want to build that scope can you give me link to more information about it,thanks.

[@Purple431]

8:27 memory oscilloscope Sounds cute ;)

[@SC-hk6ui]

good video - I never knew about the flicker. just be careful my friend.

[@richardnanis]

I get goosebumps when i see you plugging in these tiny little and bad insulated cables directly to mains voltage! Could easily be a little fault in insulation. At least use insulated plyers or solder a better cable! I hope you use at least some kind of FI-fuse? But i like your informative videos - go ahead! P.S. maybe someone could donate an old analog oscilloscope to you :-) (i have an old Hameg 60 MHz that i rarely use - but still like it for the screen and lissajous-figures e.g.)

[@henrique7221]

I'm sorry for the ignorance of the question. Is there any risk of electric shock if I lean against the aluminum heatsink? Does the bottom of the chip have power when turned on?

[@bojackson3073]

your voice is hilarious. liked and subbed.

[@mitropoulosilias]

:-D

[@harisyoung4110]

what accent he speak ? . sound like indian speaking english..

[@longrunner258]

In a series string as used in this unit, forward voltage matching is a non-issue. (I don't know if luminous efficacy at low current could vary much between chips…)

[@peterfitzwell9658]

I just got a few of these (50W) but I don't have any heatsinks for them. I do have a 1/4” thick aluminum plate thats about 8"x10". Can I just cut a piece of that bigger than the LED (maybe leave about a 1/2”-3/4" border around the LED?) and mount it to that? Would that work well enough? I do have some thermal paste also.

[@maxhijacker]

Could you give a link to your oscilloscope schematics?

[@DiodeGoneWild]

It's here: danyk.cz/avr_osc_en.html

[@maxhijacker]

DiodeGoneWild Thank you) Díky)

[@umloginqualquer]

DiodeGoneWild Are you Czech? From the accent I would guess Indian.

[@manolisgledsodakis873]

He writes in Czech so I guess that's his native language. But I agree that my first guess would have been Indian.

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Czech, of course :)

[@vidasvv]

great video ! Love your scope !!!

[@csaracho2009]

You do a very fine work out of curiosity and even with the lack of resources. Encouraging!

[@jackb3232]

This cob chips with good heatsinks are great.I run 2 for 6 month 24 h a day.

[@maximumnoise78]

First of your videos without clipping audio, are you using a different mic for this one?

[@kaoshavoc]

Do you have a video on your scope you made, I can't seem to find it, seems awesome. Love your videos btw.

[@MrLennonson]

Help! I connect my driverless cob led directly to AC 220, it exploded and burnt my table. What did I do wrong ? And my room all outlet not working, while the other house area fine. I checked my fuse box no breaker trip. What should I do?

[@jaroslavkubacak3089]

jasný čech :D

[@tomashovorka2117]

No to je danyk

[@davidpolacek4902]

alspoň se přiučím anglicky

[@vampejr4789]

jo no :D:D

[@shad0wshyper394]

Som si to tiež všimol... 😂

[@Azaakiel20]

5:24 hence the flickering effect of the leds

[@mrroronoa8]

I have the same single strand wires as you. :) I think they are from ethernet cable.

[@Surmoka]

Excellent explanation!

[@cbs1710]

I accidentally bought two of these in 110 V variant, but I am in Europe (220 V). Could I, maybe, wire the modules as-is in series, and still get them to work? (Alternative proposals/solutions with deeper hacking/workarounds also welcome.)

[@viktorherrm3407]

How would a circuit look like to minimize the flicker for 2 x 50W LED 230V. I thought of a phase shift.

[@mentaldemise]

Do you have more info on your memory oscilloscope by chance? I searched and didn't see a video of you covering it.

[@sunnych659]

sir my 20w led chip operate 12v 1amp through adapter but the chip is heating .i use heat sink also. what i do to use for a long time pls reply. thanx.

[@justADeni]

2:32 WoW, so much safer! LMAO, you must've adapted safety habits from chinese products!

[@damagexxx]

GOOD EXPLANATION MY FRIEND

[@JanKowalski-ic6np]

8:47 nice and intresting original tv, does it some other japan company or fake model?

[@LeopoldBlooom]

Hi. Nice video. Does the flickering affect the heating of the LED?

[@JustDum_]

Yes, flickering draws less power because the led only turns on at half the sine wave which means it generates less heat

[@umloginqualquer]

6:00 The area over the rectangle represents power dissipated ONLY IF the current drivers are linear (where's their datasheet?). If they're PWM, power dissipated will be much lower. Also, would this flicker less if you put a bigger capacitor in parallel with the existing one?

[@hackeritalics]

Didn't cover this at all inside the video, but if you look at big live channel he has an entire video on this we goes into the data sheet and the chips functions . These are linear ICs .

[@Gringo_In_Chile]

Just an FYI - Big Clive's KZbin channel has several videos on this device. Just skimming his video uploads, I found 3.

[@DEADJ0E]

These are great for growing cannabis... Just add a cheap CPU cooler.

[@Riddhi42069]

CAN WE HAVE VIDEO - # HOW YOU CREATED THE OSCILOSCOPE ,

[@Zebra_Paw]

2:34 the plug is not polarised, it could have been live!!!

[@dortak6797]

He probably was off-ground

[@Zebra_Paw]

How can you be that confident in not being grounded?

[@amperak]

ja du skočit z okna... 20W svítidlo za třicet korun... i s driverem... Nechceš to zkusit na DC? vyměnit odpory aby to dávalo správnej proud?

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Ono by to šlo napájet usměrněnou sítí a zvýšit ty odpory, ale pak je střední napětí vyšší a tím i víc ztráty na regulárech. Celková účinnost dost klesne. Lepší by bylo dát před to můstek a elyt a před můstekl ještě střídavej kond do série jako kapacitní omezovač. Pak to jede prakticky úplně beze ztrát, protože ty vnitřní regulátory omezej jen zapínací náraz a pak už je proud menší, než jejich práh, a tak maj prakticky nulovej úbytek.

[@АндрейЩёголев-м8о]

Thanks for the scheme.

[@bitterlemonboy]

Resistor with 0 resistance? What's that useful for?

[@za1981zee]

Thank you, really good videos on your channel, I am always waiting you videos

[@Neo_Chen]

His extension cord looks like something has exploded on it. LOL

[@Cubetech]

Nice work, 👍👍👍

[@zx8401ztv]

Yes you are mad with mains voltage, no im not quite so mad LOL :-D Hmm spare i.c positions for higher current leds :).

[@DiodeGoneWild]

I think each regulator is designed for up to 10W LED, so the 30W version will have 3 regulators and the 50W version will have 5. I have ordeder a 50W version, but I'm still waiting for it. It was just $ 1.30.

[@zx8401ztv]

That's really cheap :-), but the sceptical side of me just can't see how they make them for so little money. i'm allways expecting some defect or short lived part due to the cheapness. I'm sure you will give the 50 watt version a good test when it appears :-D.

[@steevek]

I have learned something. Many Thanks! Any way to know the power factor for this LED lamp ?

[@DiodeGoneWild]

If the power factor was measured using the phase shift method, it would come out as 1, but even the proper power factor is probably not so bad.

[@steevek]

Thanks for your reply...cheer!

[@electroumit]

Thank you. %70 effiency is very bad.

[@mattikaki]

Please, BE CAREFUL! these look really dangerous. Do you have recidual current device? I hope so. But even it can’t help if you put your fingers between N and L.

[@DolezalPetr]

Že uděláš video na ten tvůj osciloskop prosím, vypadá supr užitečně

[@Fth024]

What happens if I connect this with a phone charger?

[@shrimpbynightbythomas8212]

Does it need heatsink for long use?

[@milanzizka4636]

Where did your pretty cat go?

[@davidbolha]

Hi, You eerily sound like this YTer Deirones who had free energy clips on his channel... :) Exactly the same voice & style of talking. :D

[@jadamcak]

@DiodeGoneWild zaujal ma tvoj osciloskop... vedel by som sa nejako dopracovat k jeho parametrom a scheme???

[@DiodeGoneWild]

danyk.cz/avr_osc.html Tady :)

[@marcopilati7464]

I would like to see your face so and so much. I thought you were Indian by your accent, until I saw you buying items by Czech crowns. Please, show yourself, my friend!

[@STDNY]

It's a meeee ! Mario !

[@samuelhirner4081]

Hned som vedel že je to čech :) video je zaujimavé je vidieť že niečo o tom vie ...

[@U_Kamrc]

Tudi jaz.

[@coolfirefelix]

Hi DiodeGoneWild, as you said, I should not try this at home. but could you explain to why you won't get a shock at kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpzPknWveraGkKM or at 2:38 ?

[@zUltra3D]

I'd love to have a SOMY Pleystetiam for

[@kokotajebka]

Not useable for rotary mashines ( can cause strobe effect )

[@Tjup]

LOL how often u get electric trough body?

[@electroumit]

Thank you.

[@tw11tube]

Big Clive has the 50W versions (all 5 chips populated) at kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXzHY39vet2qZq8

[@adnankanaan3116]

This guy voice makes me laugh and I remembered his faky video about the free energy using the same cheap red china power extension damn 😅😅😅😅

[@GarmnCX]

nice vids keep up the good work

[@MrTega1975]

Ottima analisi, bravissimo!

[@bigtime5227]

Great vid

[@Ilaxffxi]

2:33 Human resistance still too low =D

[@smoothntallGWM]

If we plugged this into an American outlet at 120 VAC, would it light up with about 1/4 the brightness ?

[@umloginqualquer]

smoothntallGWM your peak voltage is 180V, and the LED voltage drop is 222v. Due to the current/voltage curve of a diode, it won't get anywhere near nominal brightness.

[@smoothntallGWM]

Lets call "nominal brightness" = 100. What brightness would the USA voltage of 120 VAC achieve ? Would it be 25 ?

[@umloginqualquer]

This is really really hard to assess, due to the way diodes work. They should be driven with constant current, but if you don't have voltage high enough to allow this current to circulate, then you're actually driving them with voltage, not current. And the current through them (thus, also the brightness) varies wildly with tiny variations of voltage. Luckily for you, the video actually shows exactly what brightness it should have at 120v.

[@umloginqualquer]

The part you want is at 7:45 listen what he says and read the voltage at the rightmost part of the video