The 3D Printer That Broke Me: My 10-Month Battle with the Elegoo OrangeStorm Giga

[@Spenceizzle2]

As someone who has built a klipper printer from scratch, this seems like an excellent candidate for a full electronics replacement with custom parts, a BTT mainboard, CANBUS board, a whole new CAN harness, and a custom Klipper config would probably make this a beast.

[@GenuineTraumatizer]

My thoughts too. Got good bones, just bad brains.

[@MajorHardware]

That sounds horrible

[@Spenceizzle2]

@MajorHardware I guess I'm a deviant for thinking it would be a fun project 😂

[@androiduberalles]

Yeah I've done all that from scratch and like, just nah at this point lol

[@mahendradhungel8011]

By that much cost you would be better of making your own lage one using aluminum extrusion

[@MrDFH22]

Professional electrical engineer here, if it's tripping a 15 amp breaker with a standard residential plug, it does not meet the requirements per code. It is not deemed safe to use in the US. It would technically need a nema 5-20p to pull anything over 12 amps continuous. I wouldn't recommend. Possible fire hazard.

[@nicholasclark4329]

An issue they could do to resolve this issue is to stagger the heating of the beds. Make it so only 1 bed can be heated to full power at a time. When at temp heat up another one. So on and so forth. That would probably let it draw 800 ish watts at a time when printing.

[@MrDFH22]

@nicholasclark4329 absolutely correct, this could be fixed by software. Another option would just be pwm the heated bed to maintain a 12 amp Max power supply in current. But it's a fire hazard as it currently sits with shipped firmware. Odds are it was designed around a standard 270 to 110 volt power supply international. And wouldn't be an issue in most countries as they are 240v. Ty for the clarification. Maybe we can get it fixed sooner.

[@CotyTernes]

This comment needs to get bumped up!

[@Cynyr]

How the heck did they get a UL,ETL, or CSA label for it with it doing that? if the software should be limiting the bed power, then the software is a safety critical component and would need to be controlled and retested on each update.

[@float32]

@@nicholasclark4329insulating the bottom of the beds would probably cut the power usage 1/3.

[@itsaflyboything]

the irony of getting a mid roll ad for the exact product on a negative video is amazing.

[@TheAruruu]

on the bright side, at least youtube successfully recommended an appropriately related product... lol

[@GapRecordingsNamibia]

KZbin...

[@impuls60]

Respect for not shilling an unfinished product!

[@SuperUltimateLP]

I mean.. anyone that had one of them for Review, shat on it 😂

[@ClaraCl2005]

Don't feel bad, yours is the third video I've seen from people struggling with the giga. Even 3d printing nerd has given up on it.

[@MrFamousguy13]

Actually, I've seen 10 other videos and counting STILL so definitely staying away from this POS

[@Eff917]

Any positive videos out there? :)

[@Hellsparkt]

the fact that such a big printer does not have: auto Quad gantry leveling, All Wheel Drive, beacon esque probe is beyond crazy to me.

[@MrFamousguy13]

Bro ngl for the price i didn't expect much in hardware it's DIRT cheap to other large printers like this

[@markuskrypton604]

Sounds like a school project donation, to find all those enthusiastic people to get it to run properly.

[@deechvogt1589]

Yes give it a good home in a school. I am sure some enterprising team of students can get doing useful things!

[@stevepoling]

Agreed. Donate it to the nearest's high school's vocational program.

[@Those_Weirdos]

Don't "donate" your e-waste to a school. They have to get rid of it too.

[@Personnenenparle]

Also, check the power supply for the 110/220v switch.. It might kinda work at the wrong voltage but power up sequence be misstimed. The mcu error might be one of the power supply failling to give power in time for the initiation communication. Its a realistic cause, they might have had supply chain issues and had to swap one of them without fully testing it.. You could try to make it work without assembling it entirely

[@Cynyr]

with a permanently connected NEMA 5-15P cord, i'm pretty sure that a device pulling more than 12A continuous is a safety code violation. I'm not really sure which code covers printers, but in general things with cords can't exceed the plugs rating.

[@HairyStuntWaffle]

@@Cynyr only in america.

[@Cynyr]

@@HairyStuntWaffle sure, but if you are selling a product here, then it should comply with USA regulations, and probably needs to be marked by a NRTL (Nationally recognized Testing Laboratory, Intertek, Ul, or CSA). I'm pretty sure you won't get something that pulls 15+ amps over a NEMA 5-15 marked by one of them.

[@mromutt]

@@Cynyr I think it would fall under space heater code haha, jokes aside that is the closest device characteristics to it. The rating on the product also should only be its peak (spiking) wattage just like a space heater being "1750 watts" but its actually 1500 watts. I had left a comment suggesting he should check his breaker switch to make sure its ok or just replacing it since they are so cheap. Because realistically it shouldn't have tripped unless the printer is drawing (even for just a few moment) WAY more power than it should. A 15a allowing 1800 peak watts, that would mean the printer pulling more than like 2000 watts instantly to trip it.

[@dmk_games]

I've often wished I had 40x40cm build plate. I've only in my dumbest dreams wanted a printer big enough to make furniture.

[@deltacx1059]

I have a 47x47 and a 350x420, they have a odd way of making you want a 50x50

[@MrTrilbe]

@@deltacx1059 and that 50x50 will fuel the ideas that need a 75x75, that will fuel the ideas that need a 100x100 and so the cycle continues...

[@saso23D]

I have 2x 45x45 still want bigger

[@deltacx1059]

@MrTrilbe for me after the 50 point I'd want to start making the bed wider and keep the depth at 50.

[@deltacx1059]

@saso23D I'm telling you printers are like cats, you just accumulate more

[@woodcat7180]

16:36 What I did not expected in 2025 was Bambu trying to tell me what slicers I'm allowed to use.

[@mromutt]

I am new to 3d printing (got my first printer last year) and even I thought that was an insane more! The first thing I looked into for 3d printing was software and was amazed how many options there were and that you could use any on any printer.

[@float32]

My theory: they’re collecting all prints to train an AI.

[@jeremyglover5541]

You didnt? have you watched the way the whole bambu thing has unfolded from the beginning at all? they dont even like you using different filament really.

[@ThumpertTheFascistCottontail]

There must be some kind of jailbreak for that

[@SaitoGray]

I was obvious from the start. never trust a company who sell you a closed system in an vastly open source hobby. Especially when they try to imprison you in an ecosystem.

[@blacklion79]

Such printer should use 3mm filament and like 2mm nozzle, otherwise it is unimaginable how long something as big as this build volume will be printed. Standard filament and nozzle could squeeze only so much plastic in one second, and big orints in standard printers could take days already

[@theangryotaku3361]

i downloaded the slicer for entertainment, and, with a standard profile on a .4mm nozzle, basically anything that uses a justifiable amount of the build volume would take 3 or four days at minimum

[@TrinomCZ]

It really depends on what you print. I can imagine fairly low parts, which are long in just one axis. In such case, you will never use full Y and Z, but can max out X dimension. In that case, it makes sense to use small nozzle, so the print is fairly detailed and still made in one piece.

[@WDMurphy]

Now print a life-size version of yourself holding a fan, as a yard sculpture. New series of you trying to get it working?

[@_BangDroid_]

Then make a casting of it with aluminum

[@0whitestone]

After a terrible experience I had with my Elegoo Saturn S due to basic shitty design, and the response of "well you're more than welcome to buy a new printer", I am not surprised at all at their customer support or the issues with the printer.

[@Mad-Jam]

Sounds like it's tested for 220v 50hz (china) and not checked for 1 phase 120v 60hz or 2 phase 240v 60hz (you did not tell how you connected it). Voltage problems can show of random problems.

[@Alan_Jr]

True, I live in Brazil and 15A is not a big problem because we use 220V@60Hz, and 120@15Amps will be something close to 220@8A

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

Just to be pedantic it is still 220V single phase, it is a split phase system not two phase.

[@Cynyr]

If it was only tested for 220V 50/60Hz it should not be coming with a NEMA 5-15P plug. There is no way it would be certified with a permanently connected cord with a NEMA 5-15 plug if it could pull more than 12A continuously. NEMA 5-15P is only for 125V. NEMA 6, 7, 10, and 14 are all available for 250V systems (220V-250V).

[@Mad-Jam]

@@Ammoniummetavanadate Thank you for correcting me. I live outside North America who is the only place using Split-phase electric power. I think in 3-phase.

[@1DwtEaUn]

@@Mad-Jam easiest way to envision our setup is 3-phase at the pole, then a transformer on each of those phases that step-down to 240v and have a center-tap which is our neutral wire for the 120v. Each phase going to a separate house, unless you have some big toys.

[@dmangTV]

will you make a video on the recent bambu enshitification?

[@JT-rl4ki]

I canceled my Kickstarter right before it ended because they couldn't show any part of it working properly. Just the still pictures. Elegoo was well established at that point and should not have needed a Kickstarter for it. I'm glad i did. Thank you.

[@Middle-AgedWhiteGuy]

Sounds to me like your MCU issue is basically that your tool headboard or control board isn't booting up before the board in the screen. Probably based on some kind of raspberry pie, and it's obviously running klipper. I built my own 500 by 500 by 800 from scratch with electronics from Big tree tech. It's a pain in the butt with the software, but I find all I have to do is hit firmware restart when I get an MCU error. It is such a pain because there are two different power switches. I have to turn on the control board first and then the host board. Then it connects fine. Also, double check jumpers on the tool headboard and make sure the 120R jumper is on there to terminate the can bus chain. Everything with clipper requires knowing a little bit about code and more about Linux. It took me over a year to work out software issues and having to learn things as I went. But I'm a tinkerer and I love that stuff. It's definitely not a plug and play type thing. I get the frustration. And all of these things I've mentioned, only work if all your cabling is good. I don't know why they would put so many plugs in a cable. That's ridiculous.

[@ryandowney9383]

This thing even pissed off Joel the 3D printing Nerd, and he's joy personified!

[@Personnenenparle]

If your ac isnt up to 120 and is instead arount 105 or 100vac, it may draw more amps to reach that 1580watt

[@tek9058]

Good base for a heated doggo house

[@DangaRanga]

Hey man, i'm in michigan as well, have a ton of machine most on klipper as well. And have helped build a modix big meter machine. I can help if you want. I'm not surprised it's got issues. companies/people underestimate just how hard it is to build a large printer. Something this size, for $2,500 is the equivalent to buying an Ender 3 for $40. there's a reason its cheap. The modix 1m cube machine cost like $30k and still required full assembly

[@lordsqueak]

sooo,,, 800mm showdown season when?? ♥ Joke aside, I'd love to see a fan that size ! Just one at least, to make it all worth it.

[@PeakDecline]

Not surprised. Elegoos standard printers have software issues too. My Neptune 4 Pro was a year of constant headaches. It would work right for a week and then just have all kinds of bizarre Z offset and such issues for no obvious reasons. The openNeptune project made it slightly better but ultimately replaced it with a P1S and that's run flawless since day one.

[@Jodah175]

Sounds to me like this is a good candidate to have Elegoo come pick it up and reclaim your space.

[@AndTecks]

Been working with klipper for 8 months. If you are just using stock parts, its a headache. If you are adding a few more features, just be ready to have nightmares from the error codes.

[@celulari]

Bambu user trying to troubleshoot klipper. Golden

[@nekrosoft13]

Haha😂

[@Borkery]

i lul'd

[@TaintedLemur]

Yes but how often do you see “MCU” errors on the Klipper discord and such. Even Klipper people have issues with the basics…

[@kf4hqf2]

Any user expecting a Klipper based printer to just work OOB, also golden.

[@ContaminatedCurly]

@@kf4hqf2 Qidi, Creality and Sovol all manage to do it.

[@l33b80]

You wired up an entire basement outlets off of one single 15 amp breaker? It's not the 1980s anymore, we use 20 amp circuits for outlets now. Plus it's not just the printer that blew the breaker, you have to add in everything else that was on the circuit.

[@MegaDman42]

Exactly what I was thinking when he said he hadn't thought about that, I literally said it loud, "you should've"

[@infidelgaming1670]

Don't hate on the old breakers. I'm still running my welder on an old style glass thread in fuse panel 😂😂

[@l33b80]

@@infidelgaming1670 all good there, just put a copper penny under the fuse ;) Jk DO NOT do that!

[@soundman98]

what code are you referencing? because that's not at all part of the NEC.

[@l33b80]

@@soundman98 seriously bro, this video shows what happens with you run outlets on a 15 amp breaker. Common practice now is 12 gauge wires and 20 amp breaker for all normal use outlets.

[@vahvelpoiss]

if I was local, I’d gladly take it off your hands as I made myself a very custom Voron Trident already and got my hands on a large-scale Modix 3D-printer. framing itself is fine, its just electronics that is crap. vanilla Klipper is quite fast and not that problematic. again, all I can do is drool on the other side of the pond 😒😀

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

I haven't seen anyone that has this printer have a good time with it.

[@GuusKlaas]

Honestly, the 110V power grid in the US is, from what I notice, often an issue. It makes proper induction hobs a challenge (those usually are 400V 2-phase, 2x230V or 3x230V here for 7 to 11kW of power), it makes proper water boilers a challenge (thank you technology connections for pointing that out), and it makes stuff like high inductive loads like 3D printers, car chargers, etc, a nightmare, needing either HIGH current (48A for a Hyundai Ioniq 5 which just does 16A this side of the pond). From having built a klipperised beast of a printer (the ratrig VCore 3.1), which is GREAT (honestly, I love DIY Klipper, it makes hardware stuff software which is amazing -- the errors you had on CAN and MCU connection outside of the elegoo abstraction to me on my raspberry pi is just changing 2 lines of python), which has seemingly similar beds but just 1 of them instead of 4, I can tell you, that each tile "peeks" to 1kW. Unless Elegoo is SMART (like Prusa with how they do the PrusaXL Tiles), and hooks up the beds through direct AC and a controllable solid state relay, causing tiles to heat up in turns (because when it is on temp it is actually not drawing a lot), you'll have to be prepared to have 4kW draw for JUST the bed. Which is 17.3Amps for a european plug (which caps at 16), and 33A for an american plug. Which is WAY too much. Those are car charger levels of power, so you'd either need a 20A 230V circuit (in European terms: blue plug). Honestly those levels of silly on silly on silly just radiate a company that has perhaps mastered mechanical engineering, but micro-electronics (such as how to have those heaters and motors work smartly)-wise and software-wise they have a lot to learn. It's not hopeless, honestly, for the price, realising I'd have to probably add my own 48V stepper drivers and something like a BTT Octopus, I'd buy it if I had a use case other than: "lol let's build a boat". I'd love the fiddle. But as an out of the box printer, I'd not be okay with it. But then again I'm not okay with bambu either on how they went TOO closed. I prefer a mix of "not relying on a manufacturer" and "ease of use", and so far just a few brands managed that...

[@dtylerb]

All I've heard about this thing even from other videos makes me think they should have named it the Lemon Storm Giga.

[@williamsteele]

Interesting... I got mine (from the Kickstarter) and fired it right up without issue. It's been running for almost a year without issue. I have the 4 headed version, but have modified it so that the 4 extruders are fixed to the edge and feed a single hot end... that way I have a good automated failover for 4 filaments (or color changing) for larger prints.

[@jensenni1]

Mcu error for me was having the wrong device ID entered and needing to include mainsail.cfg in my printer config. Canbus duplicate could be one pin having two assignments, it sounds like some code errors rather than physical issues with the printer. Removing the splices and running new wires wouldn’t actually be that difficult to do, and is something I’d recommend if I had one. Such cool machines, I’m sorry you ended up with that experience. I didn’t see the kickstarter until after it closed or I may have got one 😂 sounds like a tinkerer’s treasure

[@Powertampa]

This is my major issue with the 3d printing space. Nothing seems to be moving. This stuff should be solved by now. It's software, bug exist and can be resolved, so why is there still so much buggy software out there. You have printers come out that go back in terms of how they design hardware despite years of use showing what works and what doesn't. It should be a matter of just putting together the stuff that works and spending time to write decent software based on an existing software stack like Klipper that works. It simply shouldn't be that after nearly 10 years of 3d printing that we still see issues that are akin to the first ones that came out years prior. As software developer and sysadmin this level of stagnation is infuriating and when I look at my own printer being in pieces, because I have had to change nearly a dozen parts to fix common problems I get even more angry. Then you have companies that solve most of these issues while introducing others or pulling an Apple and trying to create walled gardens around their things to the detriment of peoples' wallets. The information is out there, so it's no surprise things like Voron are somewhat taking off, but even that is attached to a steep asking price for some weird reason despite using mostly off-the-shelf parts. We have enough technology and understanding of it to make printers under $1000 that have a decent print volume, work fast and reliable and are fully open source, yet I struggle to find one that I don't see reviews outlining issues or potential immediate upgrades after purchase to fix them. I been wanting to just build one myself as well, selecting the parts that are known to work, but the effort in getting all that, configuring software and the whole part about electronics I'd happily outsource to someone more qualified. Yet unless I find someone in that space to do it I certainly cannot expect the larger companies to it as is evident. I really hope this changes at some point, because I have tons of ideas on things to print, but fighting a printer every time or having to worry about it breaking down at some point just isn't something I should have to do when I already spent hundreds of dollars on it.

[@lukahierl9857]

You should get a Bambu Lab printer, not open source but just works. I have 1400h on my P1S + AMS with no software faults and only replaced the filament cutter.

[@DVSProductions]

Yeah no. Especially since they just announced that all bamboo printers will have to be connected to internet at all times now via forced firmware updates.. And they break slicer support just cause they feel like it. I'd rather have open source than be at the mercy of some company

[@PaperScarecrow]

I wonder if using klipper on a pi or dedicated device to bypass the trash firmware would make it more usable. Obviously you need to be in a situation where you really need the multi nozzle printing or gigantic size to even consider it, and a dedicated print room/farm to house it. Edit: posted this before you mentioned klipper.

[@kaizoor]

Your idea is still valid in my opinion. Just use the control board with plain klipper and standard interfaces like fluid or mainsail. The whole config files for klipper are all inside the firmware downloads on the website.

[@TheRealAlpha2]

When you see some other youtubers build their own ginormous printers from scratch, and I've seen like 3 or 4 of them (I think Ivan MIranda has two of 'em) they never seem to hav this much trouble. The first company to try to make a ready to go giant printer seems to have universally screwed the pooch on it and it's their job to make these. I haven't seen a single KZbinr that got one of these (for free mind you) be happy with it.

[@KaminKevCrew]

I have been dealing with the MCU issue on a printer build of mine. It’s almost certainly the USB cable that goes from the SBC/Raspberry Pi to the printer’s control board. Swap that out with an actually good cable, and the mcu error will likely go away. The default name in klipper for the mainboard is just “mcu” which is not that useful, especially with that specific error because it ends up saying “unable to connect to MCU mcu”. If the mainboard has a useful name, you’d get something like “unable to connect to MCU Octopus Pro” which would tell you more explicitly which MCU is not connecting.

[@Matt-bb3nr]

Correct

[@massriver]

Temperature compensation , warpage, drift must be mind-boggling. Doesn't surprise me white pla and large nozzle works best.

[@bridget_clinch]

Yeah I converted a 300mm cubed Cartesian to klipper ages ago, then built a little voron. I think I could manage this printer, but, we have 240v here, so I don't run in to current issues. Even on my 300mm cubed printer, the breakout boards were concerning and the plugs had some indications of burning on some pins that carried decent current. I rewired those from the hotend back to the board and put higher rated inline plugs at the hotend end, I would probably do the same with this one, and probably use an aftermarket board and just do a from scratch klipper built to simplify it and make it work.

[@MissingZtech]

9:45 Even I started to facepalm myself from how much work this sounded.

[@WillemvanBortel]

Sad to hear you have that many issues. Triggered by this, I measured the currents drawn. The heat-up phase draws 13A at 216 Volts. 2.8 KiloWatt(!!) .That would be close to 25A for 110V grid. Yes, that is a lot. After heatup, it will throttle down to about 5A. That is about 1kW. In my shop it is around freezing temperature, so normally this could be about 700W when set to 60 degree bed temperature. So yes, i can confirm you will run into issues for 110/115V grids combined with low amp fuses (12 or 15A).

[@questionablecommands9423]

I've been thinking for a while now that it'd be cool to be able to 3D print a full chair. It'd probably snap the first time I tried to lean back in it or worse, tried to tip it on its back feet, but it'd be fun to do once and then divide the chair model up into pieces that'd slot together so I could print the different parts in a sensible orientation. So, I was pretty excited to see the OrangeStorm, but so many folks have had so many negative experiences its pretty scary. They should've halted production, paused sales, and sent out a disclaimer that they need to address some issues before going any further with the design.

[@Matt-bb3nr]

You need to replace all the wiring above the platform, in the chains. Ask me how I know.. The wires they used were run poorly and not made for cable chains. Let me know if you have any questions. Mine has not errored since.

[@gadgetdeez7069]

I would 100% replace all the electronics with a new (non-elegoo) klipper/marlin controller. That would be a minimal investment for a free $2500 machine. That being said, the MCU error you are having is likely the control head to the main controller board. Considering how long the thing takes to boot, staging the power to the unit may resolve your issue. Ie: unplug the control head and let the main board boot first, then plug the control head in and let it boot. If that doesnt work, try flipping the order if possible. Once you get that set up, it'll be reliable, fast, and repeatable. No muss no fuss. Like i said, replace the controllers and that thing would be a beast. You could also segment the heated beds so you dont need to pull 1.21 gigawatts to heat the room up. Also, as another user stated, if the thing is pulling more than 12a it should have a 20A plug on it. Check the power supply rating. Are the print beds 110v? How many watts each? I think with minimal investment, a little time, 2mm filament and .8-1.2mm nozzles, you could pump out some amazing stuff! Just because you dont print large things now, doesnt mean you wouldnt if it worked properly. I bet if it were dialed, you'd be LOOKING for things to print! Dont disappoint your channel, and dont let yourself down. We got your back!

[@Matt-bb3nr]

Boards not that bad. The 4 beds make it complicated to replace. This needs all new wiring above the platform. Nothing wrong with the electronics

[@wrxsubaru02]

Get a shorter CAN cable and bypass all the oem cabling. Just seems like a communication issue which could be caused by interference or bad connections. If it works with a new shorter cable, do another firmware install once its communicating properly and then get new single piece shielded cable to replace the original.

[@Matt-bb3nr]

It's the wiring, they used sub par stuff in the chains. 1000%

[@malerra]

One of my friends bought one of these and just ended up replacing all the electronic to a Core XY setup. It finally works well but not much needs that size of print bed. We both think a 500x500 setup would have been better.

[@NormanHumal]

Honestly just a DUET 3d 6HC sounds the perfect upgrade. Powerful board, CAN BUS setup for reliability and expansion. Rep Rap Firmware which is well supported, ease of setup and also reliability.

[@TheMotoDude420]

The moment I heard "it was like using creality customer service." my heart broke for you a little, I have had to reach out to them before for my old ender 3 and it took legit a month to get a reply, in that time I had fixed it myself and bought new parts. I hope you can get this thing going, I know Joel from 3d Printing nerd had a bunch of issues with his and he had to do some pretty major modifications to make it work properly. He still hasn't done a full video of what all he had to do but it seems to be working for him now.

[@mromutt]

I had to use their support once XD they have a chat bot that does nothing and tells you you need a human and to type "human" to get one lol then no matter what day or the time there are no humans. I then tracked down I could email support, then that took forever so after waiting to long I just got a refund from amazon... then a while later creality support emails me back finally and even though I provided them all the info like product name, model number, serial number, problem and all that their reply is giving me run around and worst of all they are asking me to take videos of the "printer" not working and I wasn't contacting them about a printer XD. I will just stay away from them and their products from now on lol. Though I did eventually take apart the filament dryer and was able to fix it (basically rebuild it) and from the looks of the insides I wouldn't want to buy from them again just on that alone.

[@anasevi9456]

problem with Kickstarter is sometimes it works.... but often it doesnt... and sometimes it's a scam. But also sometimes you realise why the manufacturers didnt do that even ignoring market trends. 3D printers operate like an irony of a analogue clock motion, the size to air is so large; but the tolerances are still soo small.

[@MM-fr7mz]

Hey Elegoo, where is the required NEMA 20 plug?

[@an_unknown_source]

Sounds like a similar issue I run into with my odd setup of a proxmox node running Klipper in a container, driving 2 printers... Assuming it has a separate pi clone or the screen is a tablet with Klipper installed, the MCU is booting before Linux/Klippy is up and running, or vice versa. One of the two times out and stops being available before the connection is established. When you get the error, try a Klipper restart from the screen, and when Klipper says it's trying to connect, unplug the USB cable that runs to the screen and reconnect it. The USB Serial connection is refreshed and now they talk, without having to power either down. Maybe it'll work for you 🤷🏻‍♂️. If you can't do it from the screen, try over the network. You might be able to back up the config files (or find them online) and install mainline Klipper and get better results, but the connection issue might still be there. Aim High!

[@Jdbye]

Try replacing the cables. You already replaced the mainboard, so I can't really see what else it could be other than the cables. Possibly there is a loose connection in one of the connectors, and it makes just enough contact to work intermittently. You could check all the connections for continuity with a multimeter.

[@Matt-bb3nr]

It's the wiring, had to do it on mine. 0 errors since. Everything in the chains. I also recommend swapping the chains to 10x20 to give them a bit of breathing room. I used igus cable flex.

[@ZVexxPlayer]

I own one of the first that hit the shores here in the US. Your critiques are valid. I have been able to get succesfull prints, albeit I print a couple flat layers first due to leveling issues. I've got mine in a good spot but it's still finicky. I agree that just splitting up larger prints could be faster in many circumstances too. It's not a horrible printer, it's just plagued with all the old school pre-bambu troubleshooting as you pointed out. I have a voron I tinker on, but sometimes I just want it to print. Most of the projects I work on tend to stay on our farm of P1P/S machines. I also wasn't a fan of the 4 prints, if I need 4 smaller items.. just using the bambus.

[@bartdelege929]

For the mcu error, some mcu get power over data line, i got a board with power over usb, and use the usb to host connection, klipper enables usbflash, wich is a problem on boot, if the board is transfering power while booting with flash enabled you most likely get this error, in that case, you could prevent it by giving the board external power and making sure the data line's do not have powerlines connected. I understand that you don't like to mess around in the firmware, but its fairly easy to limit heater's max power( the printer never uses 100% while heated, only while heating), so its able to keep under the 15 amp. Also for the fan noise, increasing fan pwm, in the firmware, helps reduce the audible high frequency's. Good luck!

[@popgyorgybotond4741]

Put some better electronic inside of it, BTT board use mosfet for the bed and use it that way the board you show is the shitty.

[@WillPower311]

I have witnessed issues with a giga at work where we don't use it. Maybe someday when we have the time to spend on it...

[@crippninja4664]

I watched your video when you first posted it when you originally got this machine I can't believe you still have it😂

[@streetguru9350]

I feel like the Version 2 is going to be much better, especially if it comes standard with pellet printing. Maybe some extra rods just to give the printhead more stability, don't need to be screws.

[@Jdbye]

For sure, other manufacturers have a lot of catching up to do with Bambu on the software side. The Creality K1 series is a pretty good competitor, but apart from that, there's really nothing that offers the same ease of use and feature set for a reasonable price.

[@youtubasoarus]

I wonder if inrush current to the motors is causing the high draw issue. I can't imagine the whole thing draws 15 amps. Unless the bed heating element is what is causing it.

[@SuperJimBobJoe]

If you ever get it to work, please use the big printer to print a box fan size version of the NF-A12x25! :)

[@tigheklory]

Thanks for this video I actually thought about getting one.

[@paulthetexan]

Thank you for taking this bullet. I was thinking about getting one...now I'm not. I salute you, sir.

[@OGmolton1]

idk, i would super duper check that your entire wiring is infact rated for 20 amps because running a 5 day print on the wrong wiring woulld be no beuno. i recommend getting yourself a cheap thermal camera just to check things out when your running that beast. cool video, cool machine

[@logitech4873]

They should probably do like Bambu does for the US versions, which is to reduce the power draw to accomodate for their 120v infrastructure.

[@Shadowchamp]

Man if I was your buddy I'd have been excited to help you move cool new technology to the basement and play

[@tomasruzicka9835]

duplicate canbus, I guess one of the components had to be replaced (or flashed with different uuid) but which one? 😀

[@InTheWrongTimeline]

I bought one of their Max ones and it had to heat up for over a half hour. Then there was a problem with the screws... I love their pro printer. They did a half assed job on the largest ones though.

[@Mozart13331]

Those little clips added to the video are funny 🤣

[@milolc]

I have a 500x500x500 build volume RatRig printer. It is a *beast*. However, it will still barely fit through a standard door assembled. I can't imagine going even larger. Also, it runs klipper and mostly "Just Works" once I got past initial configuration (which was pretty painless).

[@BrianVoelker]

I custom built my 3d printer. I would love to take that thing and just swap out some boards and for sure I would have myself a new printer. Let me know if you want me to show you shots of my current rig.

[@UNgineering]

if X1C was priced proportionally to this beast, it would cost about $100, so I'm not _too_ surprised by its quality.

[@esqueue]

First make sure that your power supply is set to 110 volts but I don't think that this is the case. Here in the US, out limitation is sometimes forgotten by companies out of the country. Sometimes they test something that works on 220V, but with our 110v that we get to our typical outlet, they would need to draw twice the current (amperage) to result in the same wattage if all things were equal but with 220 volts. Example, 1530 Watts with 220V equals 6.95 amps in China and many other countries. That would equal to 13.9 amps here in the US Simply due to it being 110V. Current (amperage) is what causes heat. There are also many cases for surging current, like it would run until you try to heat up the boards or something and it initially surges past 15 amps. 13.9 amps doesn't leave much leeway. They could easily adjust the PID to the hot end and bed heaters to heat up slower without breaking the circuit but that would come at the expense of time.

[@harambeexpress]

I don't recall anyone saying that this thing required a 15A+ circuit back when these were doing the rounds. That's interesting and would be a nail in the coffin for me. Probably not a huge deal for Americans since they have to wire their houses with high amperage wire because of 110v stuff (less volts = you need higher amperage to get the same power) but it would be a deal-breaker in most other countries.

[@SaitoGray]

They use 120v. The rest of the world is in 220, you need to divise the amp by two.

[@harambeexpress]

@SaitoGray yes exactly. So by default they have circuits wired for twice the amperage of everywhere else in the world because to get the same power (as in P=IV) they need to draw twice as many amps. The nice thing about that is they can often configure a 220v circuit on existing wiring and it can handle more amperage.

[@chezcotton]

If I got a giga for free I would strongly consider upgrading it with “co print”. Their stuff looks awesome and multi-colour on the giga would be cool.

[@GonnerMeLeggies]

Honestly a 400 or 450mm printer is more than enough for anything I have ever wanted to print. The fact that this is 4 of the max build plates is crazy. That being said messing with and upgrading printers is almost as fun for me as printing, so I would probably have fun just making it better

[@executormmm]

Well, compared to its competition - injection molding of furniture and car parts - difference is huge! Try to place a 15 ton injection molding tool that costs like $8M and the whole press is probably 40 metric tons in your living room, watching TV nearby :D. Supply such machine with a TV plug..

[@Arek_R.]

Interesting, I also have a klipper based, but DIY printer, and it also had this error very often, but it would never come on the boot, it would randomly get this error when siting idle. Eventually some update fixed it I think, I think firmware reflash of the mainboard did the trick.

[@Arek_R.]

But for that exact reason for work I chose bambulab X1C so there is no fiddling with the printer.

[@Monopek_Cannibal]

It seems to me that this 3d printer is necessary for those who create large and unusual planters / flower pots in the vase mode for 40, 50, 60 + liters using nozzles with a diameter of 1.5 - 2+ mm. Or by changing it to print the same as above, but from clay/porcelain.

[@AudioGearhead]

The fact the you have a R-820-F chilling there makes this so mich better. I have a klipsch speaker or two 🤣

[@TheAruruu]

it would be interesting to see if you could hybridize the orangestorm giga with a bamboo printer. i don't know how much work it would take to get the bamboo system to think the giga is just an oddly shaped bamboo printer, but if it can be done, it should eliminate most of the issues with it. the fact that the build plate is 4 separate heated beds is an issue that i don't know the solution to. that's a lot of electrical draw, no matter how you go about it.

[@jaredrivera2619]

Im really sorry you had a terrible experience with it. Mine took over a year to arrive. I got it for $1200 as a kickstarter backer. I had a dedicated spot for it ready and had a 20 amp circuit installed for all my printers. I've had it 2 months now and have had 2 week plus prints complete on it. No errors, thank God. Maybe elegoo changed some stuff...I can't say. But yeah that's brutal, so sorry.

[@CandorPerlicious]

CREALITY CUSTOMER SERVICE.. AAAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHH! I've lost half my hair from those encounters 😓

[@geezher]

Wtf does Creality have to do with an Elegoo printer? Guess I better call Lamborghini because my Audi ain't working....

[@CandorPerlicious]

@geezher he mentions CREALITY customer service in his video as a comparison to the horrible service he was getting, albeit not AS BAD as CREALITY customer service.

[@nekrosoft13]

I don't get it... I contacted Creality once.. I had a new part in mail after 3 emails (2 days). I had more trouble with smug Bambu support that I had to contact for the x1c.

[@geezher]

@@CandorPerlicious No shit. He was throwing Creality under the bus at the expense of Elegoo... very disingenuous. Not defending Creality here as they have their own problems.

[@Stant123]

Once this is actually working reliably to some capacity, the room circulator fan showdown can officially begin.

[@leemerie3d]

How are these beds not staggered when initial heat up? Thats crazy to me they didn't correct this in software. Reach out sometime I would love to collab with you! Great channel!

[@rickh6963]

I liked to fiddle with my Ender 3 Pro until I had upgraded it to the point that it in no way resembled the original printer I bought. After all the upgrades if just printed everything I asked it to print and I didn't have to think about it, other that the bed leveling check about every three months which usually didn't require any adjustments. Then I bought the Creality K1 MAX and all I have done is print with it, no fiddling at all. The poor Ender 3 just sat there unloved so I gave it to my 12 year old grandson.

[@MegaDman42]

No offense but I wouldn't influence an ender on a kid, there's just too much wrong with it. Kids need something that works to get into first and maybe one day if they prove themselves to be able to problem solve enough I might let them take a stab at it. I'm the meantime I've gone to an A1 mini and am thinking of making my old ender into one of those bottles recycler things

[@rickh6963]

@@MegaDman42 You are so wrong. My Ender printed for thousands of hours without a problem. If you had problems with yours it's probably you, not the printer.

[@MegaDman42]

@@rickh6963 Yours is the minority experience with that printer, look around online. Most people I've seen had a much more similar experience to mine where it just never quite worked. I did everything I could and tried to upgrade it when possible and in the end gave up on it. I am far from alone in looking back on it as the abusive ex.

[@rickh6963]

@ Oh hey, Go ahead and buy that BL A1. They just fucked over their entire user base. Closing off access to their machines, gotta love closed source machines. At least my grandson doesn't have to rely on the availability of someone's servers to print to his printer.

[@TooManyHobbies786]

This seems like a really large parrts machine now...are you allowed to sell it to a local buyer?

[@ghadturner5645]

I was just thinking about this. Did you happen to come across the switch on any of the five power supplies that is maybe trying to run 230 V instead of 115 assuming you’re in the US because I got my reality printer and the switch was set to 230 V and I’m glad I double check before I plugged it in, but that might be why it’s trying to use more than 15 A of power.

[@riba2233]

Sorry to hear that unfortunately these are really flaky. Maybe you could swap to a BTT board or something, it would be a cool project

[@mromutt]

I would check your 15a breaker switch (or even just replace it since they do not cost that much) because it shouldn't trip at 1500 watts, should allow a peak of around 1800watts so even if this was spiking it shouldn't be an issue. So either your breaker may need replacing or the printer may have a major problem like its shorting (but it worked on your 20a so not likely), or one or more of the psus are really bad and just sucking current like a busted AC starter.

[@speeddemon2262]

Let's hope some firmware updates fix issues.

[@Craysv2]

Have you checked cable connection to the bed ? or the head ? try to move the cable see if the cable or the connection is bad ?

[@Matt-bb3nr]

Correct

[@renchesandsords]

is the printer added in post at 1:19? why does look like is has bad tracking?

[@christryba5536]

Love the klipsch speakers! 🤩

[@dennislafrance7183]

After seeing this, I would not buy one brand new. But to pick up one used and do a full custom replacement of the board and electronics, that I would. The frame and hardware seems to be built solid and with the right setup,(BigTreeTech board with Klipper on a Pi) this should be a printing beast!

[@gerthddyn]

I'm tired of doing this. I don't ever want to have to dork with a printer to make it work anymore. I did that since 2012.

[@KRAVER_]

Love the editing :)

[@1DwtEaUn]

Well this makes me realize might need to do some more electrical planning before attempting a 1m print area AWD 48V+ coreXY style printer, and here I was thinking that finding a 1.2mx1.2m bit of carborundum glass was going to be the challenge.

[@tarnaigy]

Oh my, did you get Shitstorm Giga? I feel for you Major... :D

[@OmegaGamingNetwork]

I wanted an OSG but the lack of multi material support was the major hold back for me. At this point my interest has faded entirely as it just seems to have gone the way most Elegoo printers have gone where it just seems like they have forgotten about it.