Make Cobblestone from Caulking? YES!

[@damianhubisz7485]

Jeremy out there proving to us that we need more Caulk in our lives.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Everybody could benefit from a little more caulk.

[@pingASS_]

My caulk is too soft

[@patryk9354]

@@pingASS_ you could ask your grandma how to harden your caulk.

[@jek__]

Nothing fills a crack like caulk!

[@shoreknightseer3152]

That's what she said

[@vincentmalfait4091]

For the purest unrefined joy anyone has ever seen its from 5:42. I can personally NOT get enough of it.

[@jherazob]

Yes! Love how giddy he gets with these successes!

[@evanhughes7609]

"It's alive! IT'S ALIVE!!!"

[@SCUBAguypnw]

It's not even dirty, it's just a bit milky... Said in any other context would sound dirty.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

@@SCUBAguypnw Milky residue from the caulk. Say it out loud.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

@Jeremy Thurman FEATURES!

[@jeffheller3045]

IDEA: use the textured result to wrap a large cylinder. Instant texture for a round tower.

[@metajock]

Exactly what I have in mind, too.

[@Jake-dx7vn]

Thingiverse has printable rollers. Have fun!

[@timago4443]

Great idea !

[@lanasmith4795]

That is quite literally the reason I bought my textured rollers in the first place. But haven't been able to properly use them because of the normal limitations. It's go time

[@onebigholiday42]

Is where my mind immediately went

[@intercrossed]

For those looking for alternatives to the rubber mat, I have had great experiences with just using fabric and caulking to create game mats. Grab an old bedsheet and you're off! I will say, I expect the rubber mat to be easier to work with. You really want to stretch the fabric out, but nails and a board or clamps and cardboard work well. Happy crafting!

[@WilliamHatton0]

A while ago think I saw a video by someone else that used paint drop sheets which are a heavier fabric/canvas.

[@Ali-cw6ui]

Do you think those 'wipe clean' large vinyl table mats that you buy off the role would work by chance?

[@WilliamHatton0]

@@Ali-cw6ui It should but could depend on the surface/caulking. But best to test before doing anything big.

[@CronosVids]

I wonder if you could use Jute to add the caulk onto. It’s more ridgid than regular fabric, but still flexible. Although it might be too porous.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

@@Ali-cw6ui If you get a one-sided vinyl mat, you might have better grip of the crafting materials on the fabric underside. It can also leave the vinyl side available for use if you don't go too 3-D.

[@benweinberg3819]

The rollers' success got me thinking about doing a stone block texture, a wood texture, and speeding up my medieval house construction tenfold with premade flexible wall textures. Glad it worked out the way it did!

[@DrKrakow532]

See I wonder how the caulk adheres to other materials. This is making me think of walls with the rollers being easy to make and slam out a bunch of the really easily

[@abmackay]

@@DrKrakow532 Perhaps a contact cement or rubber cement would stick it to things?

[@Harbinger1776]

That’s where my mind went as well. If it beats placing individual bricks I’m interested.

[@timothyyoung2962]

thought of that the moment the textures worked. No need to cut little bricks. You could create as many sheets as you needed cut to the exact size for the buildings in question. The glue them onto the structure and add any additional details like window frames, shingles, etc. hell, with the right roller, you could create the shingles as well and just stagger them to make a nice roof. I don't have any fantasy buildings in my terrain, but this makes it look REALLY easy to create some now.

[@johnphilippatos]

For us Europeans, there are quite a few alternatives to Dynaflex. Try Bostik's (ex Den Braven) Hybrifix, or ClearFix, which our both hybrid products, that combine acrylic's, non acid silicone's, polyurethane's and Ms Polymer's attributes. Extremely flexible, paintable, neutral products that have also adhesive properties which will help them stick to the rubber securely. Same products are Sikaflex-111 Stick & Seal and Sikaflex-112 Crystal Clear, but knowing Sika they ought to be more expensive than the Bostik's products. Durostik has something similar, but I think they are only for the Greek market. Cheers Jeremy.

[@MalcIgg]

Thank muchly :) was goign to have to ask, checked the comments and boom - right here and waiting :)

[@lordofswarm538]

And for those in the US, Alex plus is a paintable acrylic/silicone that is easy to work with and will probably do just as well.

[@daniellacasse7800]

Word of caution: Sika flex 111 stick & seal is a no go. It is far too tacky, even when using soap water. It will absolutely render any roller useless.

[@kryptkeeper2303]

I personally like this experimenting process more than just "hey I made this thing heres how" it shows more of your thinking process

[@PaigeMustang]

5:41 it makes me happy to see the excitement at this working on the first try 😄😄

[@truesprue]

Gotta love the mixture of construction expertise and terrain building skill. This channel is one of the best resources for ingenious terrain techniques!🎉

[@CronosVids]

The way he used the clamp to open the tube blew my mind the first time I saw it. Made me feel like an idiot using scissors to open the top.

[@dillonsiedentopf8889]

If the caulk works so well with the rollers, I imagine it could play nicely with stamps!

[@jaggedtoothgrin]

this is fantastic news! I have been working on this project myself and I have been psyching myself up to potentially ruin one of my rollers to try exactly this. Knowing I don't need to worry is a huge boon (Also for any Australians out there who need a suitable material, Bunnings sell flat sheets of Neoprene in a tile that is fantastic. it also comes in thin but much longer rolls that are a great for roads/streams but come with a nylon grid embedded that makes them want to hold their curl. I am still experimenting to see if I can get those to soften with heat or pressure. They also sell a big roll you can buy by the metre but it is thicker and less flexible, and seems to hold it's curl pretty vigorously. Experimenting continues, but the neoprene seems like the winner by far)

[@williamaitken7533]

This is INCREDIBLE for wargaming. Making relatively flat, low profile roads adds so much to the visual interest in terrain. Are you able to cut these with a hobby knife afterwards? I was thinking you could potentially 3d print some kind of stamp and then stamp it onto some caulk, then cut it out. So you could make like a rune circle or lava pool or wood planks or vines or something. Using a stamp to make scatter terrain seems really interesting.

[@dancoles2235]

Good idea

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yea you can cut these just as easily afterwards

[@EdAllen]

People also 3D print custom rollers.

[@Dan_Does]

Loved watching the trial and error aspect of this video. Very relatable!

[@sikViduser]

These are my favorite kind of videos. Quick, easy and affordable options for crafting.

[@lennescustomcreations]

I love how you experiment and how honest you are about it. Love watching your stuff!

[@ericsmith1508]

Shoot some hot glue into that small silicone mold! Hot glue is spectacular for casting into silicone molds! It picks up detail surprisingly well, and it is cured and ready for paint in as little time as it takes to cool off. It peels right out of the silicone, no problem. I have had issues with air bubbles and I don't really know a good way to prevent them with hot glue, and occasionally you do miss a spot and not realize it until after you demold the piece and see holes in it. Even with those issues (which are really minor IMO) it is a great fast way to cast in silicone. I know "casting mediums for silicone molds" wasn't the point of this video, but I still wanted to share! 😁

[@bbasmdc]

For the air bubbles, could you anneal the hot melt while in the mould by finding the melting point of the glue and using an oven? The silicone should be fine at those temperatures but it would give the hot melt glue a chance to degas.

[@ericsmith1508]

@bbasmdc possibly. I've never tried. Actually never even thought about it. Honestly I really don't care about the air bubbles myself, I mostly mention them for the sake of transparency for anyone who may want to use hot glue in a silicone mold but would stress over such things. I am very much a "that's close enough" type of crafter! 😆

[@adammiller8617]

I immediately thought of using those strips for making round buildings/towers.

[@GoobertownHobbies]

Dayum! that worked pretty dang well!

[@sindarpeacheyeisacommie8688]

Brilliant innovation! Well done!!

[@leroyjenkins880]

Dude, I wanna say, I have been following you from the beginning, and you are the absolute Goat to me. You have ups and downs like all of us, but you deliver awsome content time after time. Keep it up Jer.

[@zramirez5471]

Oh man I'm SO GLAD I watched this! This is SOUCH BETTER than 3d printing bases or to dress up, say, an entire Leviathan box worth of bases!

[@realkillerdm]

I gotta tell you, I LOVE THIS IDEA. I was so inspired that I actually just tried my own project last night with caulk. I spread out a thin layer and then wet it down real good and rolled out a wooden floor pattern on it. When it is fully cured I am going to use it as a skin for making boats for an upcoming water adventure. No more cutting out hundreds of strips of foam board and it contours better than foam board too. I'll be posting the video when I get it done.

[@shinybugg9156]

Oh man, I didn't even think of using this for boats, but that's a great idea! I'm gonna try some on a sheet of eva craft foam and see how that goes.

[@mtgemperor]

OH! I'll bet if we mix some sand in with the caulk and then lay down the textured rolling pin on it, it would make old ruined roads. Time for me to test it out! Great work, Jeremy! A random thought into a new technique?! You help me exercise my brain so well.

[@dancoles2235]

Please reply here to let us know how it went with your experiment.

[@mtgemperor]

​@@dancoles2235It added a neat extra texture to the cobblestone but I did add some sand after rolling to get the end result I was looking for. Still, it works!

[@judyrankine1697]

I use Dap Concrete Patch with texture rollers. The concrete patch comes in two varieties: The can has a gritty concrete texure and the cartridge texture is like cake frosting with no grit. They are flexible and dry very fast. You can smooth them with water when applied. I have applied the mixture to heavy watercolor paper and you end up with a thin flexible sheet of texture. If I am in a hurry, I just use a hair blow dryer and they dry in -10 minutes. Great video! I have not tried the silicone caulk so I am going to give that a try.

[@tibbsy649]

I absolutely adore how hyped Jeremy is at ~6:00. Incredible video as always

[@darthhall6187]

I have a theory that Black Magic Craft really is magic. A couple of months ago I commented that acrylic/latex based caulking was almost impossible to find where I live, apart from really expensive imported brands. Suddenly, there is an abundance of it in the same online shops I always use, and for reasonable prices. Coincidence? Or a little Black Magic?😆

[@tacite-ol]

I just tried it today! It's an amazing technic! Also, I tried it on an eva non-slip mat for kitchen for its thinness so I can build a road on a curved bed! This is litteraly a new world that opens to me!

[@hmgirlpopuri5819]

I thought you were getting caulky with all these novel ideas but they're working great!

[@johnmurphy5295]

Have to say I am a long time follower but still very new to the hobby, this is definitely the easiest way to get started with out buying all the foam and stuff. Jeramy my friend the Word legend gets thrown a lot these days but you wholeheartedly embody the word.

[@bradcraig6676]

Loving your recent series of experimental techniques, and this one in particular. If that mold test in fact turns out ok, please let us know, waiting a week to cure is not a major problem for a lot of crafters.

[@Hoody1147]

that rollout at 5:40 is my favorite. Ive done weird ideas like this and when it works and ITS SO EXCITING!!!!

[@Jim-yk9if]

You're knocking it out of the park with one game-changer after the other! Kudos!

[@AAAComics]

5:46 AND THAT's when i SUBSCRIBED. i used your caulking idea for my battlemat. couldnt have worked any better for my band of brothers set! thanks again

[@janete3511]

I love this format of video. You just trying something out and rolling on with whatever result you got. Hope to see more of It in the future

[@oldmanofthemountains3388]

It's wild how well this turned out considering how simple it was to make!

[@aldahesu28]

The joy in 5:54 made my day. That is why I love crafting terrain.

[@michaeltowers4301]

A great idea; well worth the time I spent watching; as are all your videos. I thought I have regarding the moulds, can you apply a very thin layer, let it cure, then apply a second, and repeat until you have a cast that works.

[@neilahalter9663]

I appreciate your creativity and the ideas that helps me make some for the games are family play. Thank you for what you do

[@callmestumps6954]

I was considering mixing the silicone with cornstarch to make more of a putty before using the rollers which would likely help prevent sticking to the rollers as well, but I'm glad to see that this worked. I'm looking forward to trying this out

[@charlesincharge4593]

I was planning to test this next week with my rollers, and now I don't have to worry about it working. Thanks for doing it first and removing any worry I had!!

[@HasteHobbies]

Fantastic. Actual innovations that make terrain making cheaper and faster. Kudos maaaan :)

[@soeffner6833]

Using dish soap in a silicone mold works well for silicone/ acrylic filler. Silicone requires an additive to remain fluid. This additive reacts on the surface of 'cured' silicone. Liquid soad creates a slick barrier that doesnt appear to have a reaction. Alternately use pure acrylic in the mold.

[@echodelta2426]

I always enjoy watching experimentation of new techniques. Thanks Jeremy.

[@shawnrudolph7879]

Thank you! I was thinking about trying this, so I'm glad to see it worked!

[@House-Atreides]

This is gold! Been wanting to make cobblestone modular roads that for the longest time. Flexibility is even better!

[@TheCrafsMan]

MANNNNN, LOOK AT YOU GO! :D Thank you for sharing this!

[@antherthalmhersser7239]

Another material I've been using is maskmaking latex. Its a little more expensive but very flexible

[@undeadamerican1107]

Nice to see the frostgrave battle mat mold coming out again!

[@NorthToSouthChannel]

Um so this is AMAZING. I love that your idea didn't have that expected "fail" that we often encounter as crafters... it's just nice when a project goes totally great the whole time, huh? Amazing.

[@RotaFury]

Ooo this one is massively impressive! I wonder if i can use this technique for mini basing. Very exciting

[@andreleblanc1839]

It's really cool seeing you try new techniques like that! I hope to see more of these, even the failed ones!

[@juliehamel8330]

The pure excitement when the first roller worked ❤❤❤ this made me happy.

[@williamluciano6092]

Woot!! Thank you! I have these rollers, had been wondering if this idea would work, and here's the proof of concept! Yay!

[@lostsanityreturned]

I love the idea of using this for oddly shapes buildings and walls. Especially since making texture roller balls is so doable thanks to 3d printing.

[@FallofZee]

I tested this out with a long mouse-mat and a cheaper caulking I found in Aus and it's worked really well! Nice!

[@PatriciaDILLON-o8x]

Idea for you, using Forest Green as background,adding a little black if needed.Then dry brushing Barnyard Red over top,maybe 3 times,will make it look like real brick.Im 76 and been doing it for years.Did it on real fireplace, over red and white paint,looks original. DO the same for grass,only using greens adding browns and black.On stucco dry brush brown,tan,rust,in spots after laying down a basecoat of black.All my life I've painted,houses,ceramics, porcelain, canvas,fabric and I love trying to get things to look as close as I can.

[@JennellJaquays]

I’m curious to see how you use the rollers and caulk on a battle mat to get a continuous pattern.

[@Le_Petit_Lapin]

Oh THATS what that dangly pokey bit is for on those caulk guns! usually I'd go find a stick or something! Learning more than I expected here!

[@Demante]

A long time ago I used to make molds out of calk. So if you want to use it with your molds you could try a similar process. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I think it was mixing the caulk with baking soda/powder. This additive should allow the caulk to cure all the way through. Caulk however does shrink, so you could lose as much as 10%.

[@N1GHT_H0UND]

I’d be interested to see the texture rollers in the creation of some 3 x 3 dungeon tiles. I’d be a lot more slim and portable

[@SeanHunter]

Make a large mat then slice it up into 3x3 tiles. Sounds quick and efficient.

[@cerisekappes580]

Never did I think that would work!!! And looks awesome!

[@Raptor1970]

Tip for caulking / sealant, baby wipes are brilliant for smoothing it out and cleaning up.

[@LostHereticPress]

This rules hard. Gives me plenty of great ideas to experiment with myself!

[@Decado1628]

That is really cool! Ican imagine making roads and walls from this material. Super easy and durable.

[@manofaction1807]

You had me interested in this with your hobby store bird house terrain. Good to see this, because I want to use that soft hobby styro fabric to base for the roadways/ trails.

[@debbiem6860]

Thank you for sharing 😊

[@chadmrrsn]

Seeing Idols of torment content is great, Can't wait until everything finally drops

[@dartmart9263]

I already tried this on strips of hobby EVA sheets. Works like a charm.

[@thomrade]

I think youre about to start a revolution in game mats, textured play areas that arent rigid (and thus easy to store!) Proof you really are the High Wizard of Black Magic Crafting !

[@palexanderrice]

I was straight up thinking about the rollers as you were explaining and I can’t believe how well it worked

[@FamBoren]

So many good ideas, so little time... I will definitely look for similar rubber mats and try this out.

[@raecheldoes]

This is GENIUS and opens up a whole world of possibilities 🤯

[@dodgydioramas]

This is brilliant, definitely going to give it a try

[@marklindsey4112]

Hey Jeremy, some possible solutions for making the tiles out of caulking. For some reason this problem has been rolling around my head since this morning: 1. Would it be possible to make (3D print?) a longer roller, say a foot long, to make bigger tiles. 2. Alternatively, casting a negative solid texture stamp based on your silicone mold trays, maybe out of resin, could be a way to cast bigger tiles. They might have to be slightly oversized to account for some squeeze out, but the result would probably be thinner and therefore cure quicker, possibly as quickly as the rolled version. 3. Erm ... nope ... that's all I've got. In any case, great video. Keep up the good work my crafty friend.

[@RauMins]

Honestly, so satisfying to watch this, so happy to see it work so well ♥

[@timago4443]

Cool stuff ! Maybe you could push the rubber mat into the mold with the caulking. To fill it out so it cures better and already fix it together

[@pez5767]

Really great to hear you think through the process. Fantastic video!

[@OrginalDravas]

Mineral oil on the mold with cornstarch in the silicone to make a silicone playdough like consistency wonderful thing about doing it this way is the silicone will dry all the way through and you can add bits to the silicone to give it even more texture like rocks or sand. Great work always love watching your videos.

[@Phanterinos]

with the rubber mat & caulking videos of yours you set a paragon level among those like me who spend time in creating terrain for gaming. Thank you

[@jherazob]

This series has been full of wins!

[@xraydeadgirl]

Jeremy, you have blown my mind. I've been dwelling on your technique for the last three weeks. I've been working on building a set of board games. I need to make rigid textured walls and floors that are repeatable and fast. I going to use the 230 on pva and black paint covered chip board for sci fi walls, floors and doors. Great sci fi rollers over at Curown Made. Modular corners, walls and doors - stackable. I have 18 games across 5 genres and this will have me making terrain and props in 1/10th of the time. When I get something I'll send you some pictures. Thanks man. Rick, in Memphis

[@sbushido5547]

When you said "rolling pins" I couldn't help but picture you doing this on a large scale with like a half-meter wide texture roller. Heck, you could probably buy/make something to fit onto a paint roller. You know, the ones with the removable sponge things people use to paint walls.

[@WylochsArmory]

Rockin! I despise clay, and those rollers just don't work on foam. But I have caulk for miles!

[@WylochsArmory]

....I swear that was unintentional.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I hate working with clay too, never had a good experience.

[@EdAllen]

When I was experimenting, I tried filling in some of the too dry patches that didn't take an impression in the caulk with DAS clay mixed with Mod Podge and rolling that. A bit of a pain to apply but it took the rolling well and stayed pretty flexible with the road.

[@joshuasetzler]

@@WylochsArmory I don't believe you. :P

[@Highwaym4n]

Nice! Im glad to see the suggestion worked out for you!

[@BarringtonDrive]

I really like leaving in the thickness bit at the start - its this kind of experimentation that reminds me as a viewer that despite slick video editing, it's normal to mess around at first :D

[@kaze2277]

This works so well! Can't wait to try it. Maybe a small spray of clear coat for added protection for the paint? But maybe it would Crack once hardened?😅

[@KalimombuMBanga]

awesome video! I cant believe that roller didn't stick, what a win!

[@brandonfeeley514]

Roller looks amazing. If you watch back, I think the "thin" spots were more the rolling pin rocking side to side as you switched hands.

[@aaronmorano1662]

Like to see new methods of crafting from content creators like this. Especially when it was a mashup of new materials that give them a new idea. Thanks BMC for being a beta testers for all us model makers.

[@Mezzier]

When I worked in SFX (more than 10 years ago) we used PVA spray to make silicone in silicone mold, spray, wait for it to dry and once you take it out of the mold the PVA was removable with water. Also, when using latex silicone like this, you said water helps 'kick' and for that, we used acrylic paint mixed with the silicone, just pour into a cup, add a couple of drops of acrylic paint (the cheapest one, no need for good pigment) and then mix. With the color you see when you mixed correctly and after that it was "hardening" (curing?) in a couple of minutes and all the way through..

[@goforitpainting]

I really like to use the GSW Rolling Pins. Thank you for this tip.

[@andersand6576]

Great video! Topic suggestion terrain ideas for stuff that could go for different scales 28, 15, 10, 6mm and so. Could use some stuff for several games. Both scifi and fantasy

[@mmmpi1866]

Great Video as usual! Cornstarch at 1:1 ratio will allow it to cure a much thicker layer. I would also be a great mold release.

[@majsmith66]

I work in hardware surrounded by caulk. I now have a new hobby with my terrain rollers. Bloody brilliant video!

[@PaigeMustang]

Yay! My friends were just talking about trying something like this yesterday! 😄

[@ducomaritiem7160]

I think you have to mix some corn starch into the caulk. It will be a bit like a putty then, and cures fast. I've used that trick a lot since I learned it. Make cheap rubber shapes fast. You even can mix some acrylic paint into it. Try it and you'll be a happy camper.

[@billtempleton2870]

Great minds think alike - I’ve been meaning to try this myself. Thanks Jeremy!

[@gilbertpatrucco5196]

Amazing discovery Jeremy!!! As always you push the envelope in crafting :) As a long time subscriber, I always thoroughly enjoy your videos!! Great job mate!!

[@theblondskeleton]

One of your best, my dude. Well done and thanks!

[@thegoblintrader]

Maybe dry spraying the mold with water before you apply the caulk... That type of caulk uses water/moisture in the air to cure.. Another thing to try is what we used to do in art class which is squirt the caulk in to a cup of soapy water then take it out and put it in the mold.. Doing it that way you can make a mold with it that is about 1/8-1/4 inch thick that will cure over night.