Make Perfect Resin Castings

[@flytrapjohn]

I look forward to seeing how this part turns out.

[@katevandeweghel2691]

I'm so fond of my new friday molding nights out 🥳, looking forward to the next episode. Will start my sculpture over in the mean time with molding and casting in mind. Thank you for your valuable lessons. Next friday I'm going to put my dancing shoes on.

[@thelmy7473]

You are amazing, your tutorials are very useful and exciting. Thank you so much

[@joelnoles4530]

Your channel has been so incredibly helpful. The theory you explain behind designing molds is so well delivered. I’ve been able to craft molds for my fishing lures with almost no parting lines that are far easier to use than previous designs and are much more consistent in the results.

[@RobertTolone]

That’s fantastic Joel! Glad to hear that the methods are working for you.

[@richardedwards3851]

You have become my new mentor, thank you

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching my videos Richard!

[@rossknowles5608]

great use of the overhead shot so we get a great expert-eye view

[@RobertTolone]

Using my DJI action camera strapped to my head is a recent innovation that I am pleased with so far. I just have to remember to hold my head reasonably steady and know that the camera only sees what I am looking at because I aimed that way. It has stabilization called Rocksteady that works really well! Otherwise I’m pretty sure the shots would be unwatchable.

[@ChempZee]

It'll be interesting to see you cut this one. Looking forward to it.

[@RobertTolone]

Pour cut and cast is next week!

[@robblatt9120]

Can’t wait to see how it turns out!

[@RobertTolone]

Should be fun!

[@ScottBourke]

Always informative to see how you attack organic objects for molding. Thanks

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Scott!

[@kurogiza]

I really enjoy this video. As you say, in an ideal world, a sculpture that will be molded and cast should be designed to be molded and cast. However, in the real world the artist will want to create a certain look to their sculpture without being constrained by something like resin / air flow inside a mold, and so problems have to be solved. Looking forward to the next video!

[@RobertTolone]

In the world I come from, which is sculpting prototypes for character-based premium toys (Happy Meals) and other products, displays, etc., the manufacturing process dictates every detail of the design. It’s an object that looks as much like the character as possible. It is not an accurate sculpture of the character in the movie. That is what differentiates what I do from what other sculptures do. I sculpt for the manufacturing process.

[@kurogiza]

@@RobertTolone absolutely! I understand. And it is fascinating to see how streamlined you've made your approach. But also good to see how you adapt to obstacles. 👍

[@wertsdb71]

Love seeing how you handle the vents and sprues--very informative!

[@RobertTolone]

It’s so important to place them properly! And it also helps you to cut the molds correctly. Because you can follow the vents as you cut down through the mold.

[@wertsdb71]

@@RobertTolone Will be curious to hear why such a small connection between the two arms at the finger when there is such a large funnel at the top where you'll be pouring. Looking forward to the follow-up video!

[@RobertTolone]

@@wertsdb71 Because a big thick connection at the ends of each finger with mean a lot of sculpting cleanup. I want to do the least work on the castings as possible. And I don’t need to fill the entire second arm with that little bridge - I can just fill the hand and then pour more resin in from the sprue on that arm.

[@wertsdb71]

@@RobertTolone Ahhhh. For some reason I thought you would only pour down the "P" arm and then wait for the resin to rise up to the other spout in the "V" arm. Now it makes sense! Your videos and time are much appreciated!

[@joek600]

This video is gold! Robert there are alot of videos that briefly shows how to mold and cast. But nobody thoroughly explains the logical steps you need to go through when you design a mold. Where to cut the master, where to place the vents, how to place it in space. Im very happy that you are doing a human-like figure. In the future if possible, I would like to see you molding a fairly complex tabletop miniature figure. Because that would share some of the complexity problems you have with this sculpt but also due to the small size (32mm height) the weight of the resin as a material doesnt help during the pouring process.

[@RobertTolone]

I have several human figure projects in line right now. I keep waiting for someone to send me in a miniature project. Several people have contacted me about casting miniatures but so far no one has committed to a project. Pretty sure it’s inevitable though, there’s a lot of interest in miniatures. Thanks for your comment Joe, I appreciate it.

[@Mokaygee]

Another set of insanely impressive work

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks, let’s see how the entire figure comes out. With luck it will cast well.

[@runin1wild]

Good points to know on laying out a project. Another good lesson learned!

[@davidstinson6188]

Love the hands free camerawork!

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, strapping my DJI action camera to my head freed up both hands and makes it possible for you to see what I am looking at. I’m pretty excited about the possibilities for this new camera angle.

[@DINHVANTAM-QTRI]

Wish everyone stay safe. I do sculpture in Vietnam 🇻🇳 😍😍😍😍

[@Gtown1777]

Hi Robert, thanks for the great lessons. I had an idea for closing mother mold shells. I think Ace bandages would work well. They are stretchy and can be tensioned by hand while wrapping. A "claw" or saw tooth cleat can be imbeded in the shell. I think you will understand what I'm talking about. If not, let me know and I'll explain further. I think it would be quicker and more controlable for even pressure than rubber bands. Cheers!

[@RobertTolone]

It would be worth a try! Never thought of that. Could be especially on larger molds.

[@vernonleeper]

Robert, Truly a master at your craft, I enjoy watching you work with these materials. The videos are not just entertaining but very informative and I’m learning about all the mistakes I’ve made in my process. I have only made a few molds and casted a few items, I using the wrong resins though because the pot life is way too short and I get some failed parts. I just subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more and, I have a metric ton of questions to ask you about the pressure pot, resins, vents, and mold building. Thanks for sharing.

[@RobertTolone]

I think I have something like 80 videos so far on my channel; I’m trying to build a resource library of techniques for many molding and casting challenges. I hope it will help solve many of the problems you may encounter while making your projects.

[@figrollin]

Also Robert! You need to build yourself a mini crosscut sled! Some of those tiny cuts had your fingers pretty close to the blade - something I see you were acutely aware of! Haha. Maybe you don't do that sort of task often enough to make it worth it, but I think it would be useful :)

[@vernonleeper]

I was getting a bit nervous watching

[@RobertTolone]

At the very least I should screw a piece of scrap wood into my miter sled. There usually is one on there but sometimes there isn’t. The list of tools, jigs, fixtures, stands and everything else that I need to build for my shop is pretty endless.

[@Aurelius_Khan]

Good! Loved it!

[@JoaoRodrigues-cb9zh]

Tuning every week for my Molding and Casting class. Tremendous work, thank you so much for sharing something like this.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks João!

[@chartle1]

I was worried we were going to only get that one fail video this week. 👍

[@RobertTolone]

I just wanted to explain why I was starting a new project and not continuing on with the snow globe.

[@fuzzpuppets]

Robert, you made my day! I have been eagerly awaiting your approach to this. As one commenter already said, a lot of artists sculpt to their vision, not thinking about casting. This series should help us think more about that and how we can make subtle changes to improve reproduction. I love working with monster clay, but it is not a permanent solution (never hardens) so casting should be a huge consideration. Thanks so much! Can’t wait for next week!

[@RobertTolone]

Mr. Foot is going to be at least three videos. I will probably be consulting you soon about the redesign of the mouth/teeth. I’ve already molded and cast the arms but I will not spoil the next video for you by telling you if they came out or not.

[@glenfisher728]

G'day Bob , clear globes and hairy monster wax always with the new challenges ! Enjoying the hat cam I think it's working well . You look a bit more relaxed back in your shop , how long are you back for ? All the best .

[@wollibar5263]

Robert this is great your video comes to the right perfect time. I am just about to design some molds as well and I am happy about the honey you are offering to be sucked once again. Great informative as usual and right on time Sir. Thank you very much enjoyed every secon of it.

[@RobertTolone]

I hope my videos help you with your current project Wolli!

[@Gtown1777]

Excellent info, thank you so much!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching!

[@sculptique]

This channel is a real find! The only thing I'm confused about and can't seem to find that much information about is silicone safety, is it necessary to wear a respirator while mixing/pouring and most importantly does it produce fumes while curing? Can you be in the same room while it cures if the area is not ventilated?

[@RobertTolone]

I would direct those questions to your rubber supplier. The particular brand of rubber that I use has a very mild odor and does not come with any dire safety warnings regarding respirators, etc. I have been pouring it for 30 years without any noticeable ill effects. But check with your supplier anyway. Most will supply safety and handling information as well as a material data sheet which tells you about the characteristics of the rubber.

[@sculptique]

@@RobertTolone Thank you 😊

[@BrianFowlie]

15:00 Min mark! cool saw trick!

[@RobertTolone]

Just be sure to keep all your fingers. I would be wise to build a decent cross cut sled!

[@paulhayton3423]

Looks like a challenge does this monster..

[@RobertTolone]

Figurines are what I have done for most of my career so I have a reasonable chance of success. The hair is the most worrying part. No matter what I do it is going to catch bubbles and/or eat the mold pretty rapidly. Quite a contrast from your object. I feel that you can get a lot of parts out of one mold because the original is so highly polished.

[@YoiYoi雕與塑]

thank you so much, Robert. I am wondering how I can find part 2 of this video. would you please tell me?

[@roger.agburn]

Oh no, no rubber pouring. ^_^ The creature looks awesome, looking forward to see the final casting.

[@RobertTolone]

Ran out of time! Full rubber pouring and casting next week!

[@AsainNerdfighter]

Exciting project! Wondering why you went straight into pouring the mold where as the pug project was a brush on mold.

[@RobertTolone]

The pug was considerably bigger and would have been very heavy in solid resin.

[@5spottedbass]

Old school drill motor 💪

[@RobertTolone]

80’s vintage Porter Cable. The bearings are pretty tired!

[@figrollin]

Thanks for sharing your process Robert! Out of curiosity, how did you film the pov segments at the table saw? A head mount? For a camera or for your phone?

[@RobertTolone]

Just added a head strap to my DJI action camera. So yes, I am experimenting with POV shooting. So far I’m pretty pleased with how it’s coming out. Just have to have stabilization on and try to keep my head as steady as possible so nobody gets seasick!

[@figrollin]

@@RobertTolone Its possibly the most successful execution of POV filming I've seen!

[@RobertTolone]

@@figrollin Wow, thanks, good to hear. I like doing it and will work to really refine my video technique.

[@shemwilson5764]

Make Perfect Resin Casting, this video is more along the lines of what I am having a problem with. I called myself making it mold ready but I'm not sure it's too mold friendly. I can't wait to see how the arms turn out because I started another figure and this time I left the arms separate. Now I'm wondering how to suspend them in the mold.

[@666toys6]

Hi Robert! Loving your videos they are so incredibly helpful! I have a new art toy that I would like to cast, I was wondering if you would be able to help me on which approach I should use, positioning, spouts etc. 🙂

[@RobertTolone]

email pics to me a [e-mail]

[@666toys6]

@@RobertTolone just sent you an email, thank you!

[@ArianHypnotiq]

Love your videos! Can I use a 5 day cure epoxy in cut molds or I have to use fast curing resins?

[@RobertTolone]

Generally, you want to have the resin in contact with the rubber for as short a time as possible. But it’s theoretically possible. I would ask the manufacturer of the resin about it.

[@ArianHypnotiq]

@@RobertTolone 🙏

[@davidhoogewijs1718]

hey Robert,do you have a video on how to make the mold and cast a lunchbox,i made one on the 3d printer and i am faced with undercuts for the locking lid,would you make an open back mold or a 2 part mold,if needed i can send you pictures,grtz david

[@RobertTolone]

send pics to me at [e-mail]

[@danielefound]

A lot of makers create the mold with the base in foamboard and the wall with some photo paper (stick with hot gun glue). Why you use wood to create your mold? It seems more expensive, time consuming . What are the advantages of your method ? Thank you and continue! You’re great

[@RobertTolone]

You must find the solutions that work best for your experience and your shop. Almost all of the wood I use is scrounged from free sources like construction dumpsters. I started out as a woodworker so I have a shop for woodworking. For me it is much faster to work with wood than to work with cardboard and paper.

[@danielefound]

@@RobertTolone Thank you! Your channel is unique. Love you, really.

[@RobertTolone]

@@danielefound Thanks Daniele!

[@gremics-gallery]

Hello, Is their a minimum size to the venting sprue ? Under that certain size the silicon mold may start to close off a vent thats too small ? Also can a common soldering iron be used in place of your Fordom wax carver ? Thanks.

[@RobertTolone]

You can make the vents very thin but remember you have to follow them down when you cut the mold. I would rather sharpen a vent to make a small connection than use a very thin wax wire to form it. A soldering iron is OK if you can regulate the heat down to the melting temp of the wax. Most irons run way to hot for wax.

[@voiceofreason1629]

I've really been enjoying your videos, and I'm learning a lot, but questions lead to more questions. Can you roto cast multiple parts at once?

[@RobertTolone]

You can, although the hard part is filling them fast enough. If you can dispense the resin quickly into the cavities and close them up in a short period of time you could theoretically rotocast multiple parts at once.

[@annekabrimhall1059]

Wait! this is filmed a long time ago. You’re in your studio?!

[@RobertTolone]

Was home for 5 days. Back in Phx now. I literally finished filming it yesterday.

[@chartle1]

Getting a bit of PTSD watching you use the table saw. At this time, after watching last weeks rotor mold fail, I was in the ER and came out 8 hours later with 8 stitches in my my thumb. 😬 Oddly I've used my saw since then with no issues. But I'm also waiting for some magic push blocks from Amazon should be here any minute.

[@Gtown1777]

I think I'll just use Legos myself. I have to fast forward through those table saw sections. They stress me out!

[@chartle1]

@@Gtown1777 I got my push blocks so maybe I'll stay out of the ER today. I'm almost 60 and I just got my first non dental stitches and only my first broken bone 5 years ago.

[@chartle1]

@@Gtown1777 also I typed that while he was cutting so on my phone its grayed out.

[@maverickstclare3756]

No guards, no dust extractor, reaching over the saw. He would be liable for prosecution here in the UK.

[@RobertTolone]

@@maverickstclare3756 There is dust collection attached to the tablesaw, I just forgot to turn it on! I have been using a tablesaw regularly for 40 years and have yet to injure myself. When I watch my videos I feel like it looks riskier than it actually is. My hands are positioned to keep out of harms way. Even if they are relatively close to the blade they can never be pushed or pulled into the blade by the work piece. It is very dangerous to reach across a blade and try to pull the wood through the blade from the backside. I never do that.

[@spacemansabs]

Hi Robert, I’m making some moulds for casting tin. I’m using high temp moldmax 60 but it is kicks so fast. 40min pot life? In your dreams. Anyway I’m getting bubbles on the parts. Even on the smooth vertical surfaces. I don’t have a pressure pot. I’ve tried pouring from high up but it’s so thick that It’s not really any help, and the short pot life forces me to pour faster than a high thin stream allows. Any suggestions?

[@RobertTolone]

Some things that might help: Lower the temperature of the rubber for mixing and pouring. That will give you more time to work with it. If you can’t vacuum de-gas the rubber, mix and pour the mould in small, successive batches, each from the bottom up, giving time and a short distance for the bubbles to rise. Also, consider carefully hand brushing a print coat of rubber onto the model, manually making sure there are no bubbles on the surface anywhere. Let that rubber coat cure or at least gel and then put it in the mold case and pour the main mass of the mold.

[@StarbucksBob]

Im very new to casting with monster clay, was some curing process done to the sculpture to make sure it is tough enough to survive casting? Im currently using sculpey so I can bake it, but I know monster clay will melt.

[@RobertTolone]

Monster clay does not cure. You cannot oven bake it or post cure it in any way. It is simply a hard clay that remains workable permanently, similar to Chavant or other oil clays. It is more than hard enough to withstand molding in silicone rubber. But you can mold sculptures made of very soft clay in silicone.

[@nagyesszep]

why is the 'P' backwards?

[@ArcticFlies56]

Robert, talk about suspense. On the first cut on the table saw, when you started to use your index finger to move that thin piece of wood next to the blade, I started saying NO!! Then you grabbed the pushing stick to get the small piece away from the blade. I thought we were going to witness you losing your finger. YIKES Robert! I know suspense is nice for the videos but not by giving your subscribers a heart attack.

[@annekabrimhall1059]

Ee gads you’re nuts! Now you’re just torturing yourself.

[@RobertTolone]

Can’t get enough punishment, apparently! 🤪

[@Yo-Da-Action]

Wow a KZbinr that uses a push stock on the price that's against the fence.. The piece between the blade and fence is a bullet..

[@RobertTolone]

I’ve been standing at a tablesaw for more than 40 years. I’m never in line with a workpiece passing between the blade and fence. Kickbacks are very rare but when they happen I’m out of the way.

[@kseniiabondarenko4401]

Awesome content, thanks so much!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching Kseniia!