Make your own Motorized Camera Slider (Part 2) - the electronics

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2x Limit Switches: rover.ebay.com/...
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1x Rotary Encoder: amzn.to/2cA2WRe
2x Limit Switches: amzn.to/2cA2rGS
In this project I will show you how I repurposed two old camera tripods in order to create a motorized camera slider. The mechanical system consist mostly of aluminium and steel which makes the slider sturdy and pretty decent looking. The electrical system consists of an Arduino Nano with LCD, rotary encoder, limit switches and stepper motor.
Music:
In the Hall of the Mountain King, Kevin MacLeod
Ecstatic Wave, Jens Kiilstofte
machinimasound...

[@eW0LF]

When I made camera slider for my customer, I used 12mm staninless rods and there were no problems with shaking. Everything was perfect. You should really consider changing diameter of your rods.

[@scyther1141]

I dont understand like 90% of the explanations of how stuff works but i really enjoy the projects.

[@rexczi6299]

I have no idea what you're talking about, but i still enjoy it..

[@Clipppur]

To reduce the shaking on the wider try using a camera mount/tripod head that is smaller than the one you are using. It would be better to put a quick release plate on the moving section so the camera is closer to the rails making a lower centre of gravity thus removing the shake

[@greatscottlab]

I will give it a try

[@xDMG15x]

@@greatscottlabi know this is old, i’m in a greatscott rabbit hole. The stainless rods have no rigidity because the only thing holding the whole rig together is the two pipes. If you used a piece of aluminium C channel as the body of the rig and mounted everything to it then the whole thing is rigid and the rails would have very minimal movement. Also sandwiching the slide beatings between two aluminium plates would make the platform more rigid lower the centre of gravity.

[@curiosity2146]

i have finished watching all of your video and have no patience to wait for the next video so i watch your video 2-3 times

[@hdt1948]

i love your videos, the auto-subtitles is loyal with you speak, is very good for me who isn't a native of this language

[@unmaskedeagle1229]

Scott LOVE THE VIDEOS!! Keep up the content very enjoyable

[@greatscottlab]

Thanks mate ;-)

[@XXTechMoXXNew]

Your awesome great scott. I have no idea how to do anything your making but I still like to watch your videos because some day I'll learn and i'll make these types of things like you.

[@Rachel801]

Great Scott! I really enjoy your videos, but I do need to give some pointers on Loctite. Loctite is applied to the threads before the nut goes on, it only takes a tiny drop. Loctite is also anaerobic, meaning that it will only set in the absence of oxygen so only the film that is in the treads between the bolt and nut will set. Please keep the videos coming!

[@ZesarMad]

Oh man! I don't I can do that level of electronics, but certainly it's very entertaining to watch you doing that. Great work!

[@callumjackson100]

legend has it that the great all mighty Scott will reply to this comment.

[@ceptimus]

Always rotate your 3D print designs so that the surface that you want to have the best finish is printed against the print bed.

[@Diamonddrake]

Moving to the solid rods was key, but you want to get hardened chromed rods are used in 3D printing, If you want the system to be able to hold weight, you would want the rods to be above and below each other, not side by side. Try turning the whole thing on it's side and see how it works. it changes the box structure and affects how the internal forces relate to each other. Might not make a noticeable difference is the load is high, but for smaller loads it definitely will.

[@MultiTerpen]

I am building one right now, but I am using roller wheels and 22mm aluminium pipes. It is about 1m long and I am going to make it motorized later on by using an old battery drill and some switches.

[@favorite89103]

So that's why the camera was shakey! Great video as always :)

[@Nesh.b]

Cooles Video ! Schau mir jedes Video von dir an immer wider interessant was du alles baust echt super mach weiter so 😁✌🏼️

[@fandigladion7051]

scott... you are genious... please keep your brain from injury...

[@calvin-7540]

I suggest you may rotate your 3d printed part clockwise by 90° so that you do not need any support for your printing to save both your printing time and material.

[@SpringHaIo]

You should be able to significantly decrease the shaking by not having the camera so far above the axis of rotation. Add a shorter camera mount and you should see a big improvement. Great video as always.

[@Tristn-1]

you could make it use the hollow set of rods as well as the solid rods for best stability in the middle

[@MrBiky]

Hey GreatScott! I received a breadboard as a present and started to analyze how a breadboard has the rails attached. Now I finally understand why you have all that mess of cables on your trusty breadboard. (I use copper Cat5e cables on mine, as I have a literal sh*tton of it - works like a charm). :)

[@brandondaniels9471]

Me, too. I think I have close to a mile of Cat5e and Cat6 in my garage... :-D

[@MrBiky]

Brandon Daniels Well, now that's impressive. I have around 25m or so of Cat5e (and around 3m of optical fiber, though I can't use that with my breadboard).

[@MC-Cali]

on the 3d printing blemish.. you could cover it with a plate that says Great Scott on it. cool video!

[@sendercopier4290]

that was great project man! btw you can use delayMicroseconds(uSeconds) in the interrupt function to software debounce the rotary encoder so you dont have to use schmitts. Good build bro!

[@Rubysh88]

The camera mount seems to be the issue here, its too tall, maybe if you find a shorter mount or even make one by yourself the plus addition of a counterweight on the bottom, that could help kill some of the wobbling.

[@leethallee6718]

even maybe hang the camera from the bottom of the rails

[@Rubysh88]

Leethal Lee That would also help as well, but wont look as elegant. Right now, it is like an inverted pendulum, It will be more stable with a shorter mount plus the counterweight on the opposite side so the centre of mass is exactly in the middle of the rails, Is that or a more sturdy triangular design with 3 metal rails.

[@blakenelsnelson]

To create smoother movement you should gear the steeper using simply pulley reduction. This will make the stepper rotate faster so the steps won't be as apparent

[@cyborgsheep6077]

in a separate video you should use 2 stepper motors and an accelerometer to make a diy camera stabilizer you could also talk a bit about how accelerometers work

[@kaumohlamonyane272]

Wow! nice work and your work space looks so nice. I remember when you didn't even have a variable lab bench power supply😂

[@greatscottlab]

Time flies ;-)

[@elisandrosouza3131]

Congratulations!! I'm from Brazil and other Elisandro enjoyed your channel , thank you for sharing your knowledge , hug !!

[@copystring]

My GF thinks you're great! Especially your voice. She loves it.

[@jetter1019]

ne cool to see you make a DIY servo gimbal for a camera

[@BenedictTanShanWen]

Hmm, just so happens I have a spare DRV8825 lying around and this looks like a fun project to build around it :) Though I think for the mechanical design I will base my build around Musumi 2020 extrusions and 3D printed parts. Thanks much for the electrical diagrams! Concerning the deformation of your print, what it looks like to me is the support material in that spot was likely fairly thick and the total thermal mass in that area did not allow your print to cool quickly enough for the filament to solidify as it was extruded. Seeing as your print fan was running I'm guessing it was PLA, knowing that I can tell you that you will see a dramatic increase in your print quality if you were to print a circular duct for your fan and add it to your Delta. Slicing wise, as some other commenters have said; best to flip the print on its side and print it as a wall without support material. I'd also suggest adding maybe 2-3 millimeters of brim to prevent the corners lifting.

[@labassproject2897]

if you attatch other two guides to the steel bars you will get more stability

[@standbyme6395]

everything about this channel is awesome!

[@aliranjbar5999]

Those who have the problem of engine vibration and high noise should use a pull down resistor for the buttons

[@rondlh20]

I would not use paper for insulation, use plastic instead. I also suggest to mount the camera directly to the platform to reduce weight and vibrations.

[@adrianjost-dev]

DIY Perk has also build a camera slider a while ago that is as easy as this but way more stable. but sadly without any motor. but for the next time you could use his model and add some electronics. but all in all it's well done. keep going

[@kevinlivingston9563]

Yeah Scott. If yours was stationary, didn't have all those pesky circuits and motors or if you held on to it, it wouldn't wobble so much! Lol you should just take off all of the cool stuff and convert it into a sliding cup holder.

[@vidanatural_oficial]

I think, it works great!

[@andreglud]

I'm fairly impressed with your welding skills. That shit's tough is fuck.

[@irfanaslam5859]

I think you should make a basics video in debouncing switches and rotatory encoder

[@applehugger]

Have you tried adding some light lithium or silicone grease to the tracks on which the camera slides? This may help reduce the jitter present in your final iteration, especially in the middle. It doesn't look like wobble to me, it looks like the camera platform is getting continually stuck and unstuck on the rails just enough to cause that wobble.

[@mossiemansteve]

Fantastic, just what I have been looking for Thank you.

[@YURIKAVLAKOV1]

that shaking is mostly due to friction - so use some lubricant and try to polish the rails

[@JOELwindows7]

Yay it's complete! Duper Awesome!

[@ChristianJoyAzucenas]

Nice vid, It's been 2 weeks

[@glenthemann]

"a bit of loctite." lol I guess a bit means the opposite in German

[@John_Ridley]

Yeah, that's about 10 times more loctite than is needed

[@Max-qs7sd]

As a german I can confirm "bit" does not refer to a low quantity. The german word which would first come to mind when hearing "bit" is "bisschen" which means exactly the same as "bit".

[@jigneshpatel618]

as always it is like a charm perfect for beginners.! Really GREAT Scott.! or whatever your name

[@chaitanyaloll9183]

it very good . I liked it

[@MarianKeller]

To further improve the Footage, you could just use the warp stabilizer of After Effects. Doesn't produce any strange artifacts and makes even handheld footage look like its straight from a steadicam.

[@hoctrimededebutry8655]

Great job !!! Next step is to control the camera directly by the arduino ? ;-)

Great Scott! Thanks. this is great as you Scott.

[@JeremyCook]

Love time lapses - subscribed to your #2 channel!

[@KaneSwartz]

obviously if you wanna sort that wobble out you should move the room and keep the camera still

[@tomatoplot]

Hey GreatScott! Great build! How about making a lightning detector camera trigger? Would be very helpful for storm photography! I tried making one with a Arduino Uno once but couldn't get it to work consistently.

[@charles3450]

I have two questions: - If I understand correctly the Schmitt trigger cleans the noise from the rotary encoder? - What would be the easiest was to trigger my camera (canon 600d) between every step? Thanks for the video :)

[@ZAIDAAS99]

notification squad for life (only greatscott!)

[@j-roadtrip1244]

my god.. I love this channel

[@prateekprajapati9419]

Very very nice

[@dtvieperakarrytuo5767]

Could you make the speedometer and revolution counter for Arduino? For moped or sycle

[@RicolaMint]

Wonderful work!

[@gegego1337]

Impressive work! Thx for sharing

[@main_py5853]

Amazing video

[@DenysSene]

great project!

[@MDFRESCUER]

Good video.

[@Loopyengineeringco]

Great techniques and great videos!

[@ahmedbasiony8582]

thank you for part two

[@John_Ridley]

I would use M12 drill rod and linear bearings on that. Otherwise it's going to be way too wobbly. M8 is really only good for maybe a 30cm span at most.

[@pkabzik]

great project. I wish there was also a connector to Nikon that would result in step-shoot-step function...

[@T_Coolwine]

Hi scott, if you'll do another Q&A, will you answer this question please? What is your key to soldering, everytime is see your video's i think it is easy, but when I try it myself, everytime I get small bals of solder sliding everywhere.

[@unshanks]

Try adjusting the orientation of the 3D model before printing, that print looks like it could have been rotated to it's side to avoid most of the supports. Took me a long time to get in the mindset of figuring out the best method to print.

[@greatscottlab]

I had it oriented like that because that was the best print result. Other orientations were a fail.

[@unshanks]

+GreatScott! Ah, okay.

[@guillermop7802]

You could use brim or rafts techniques to improve the bed adhesion www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/

[@nichofmann1800]

as always a great built from great scott :)

[@greatscottlab]

Thank you

[@ArkadiAbramovic]

pure perfection!

[@itslegendarytiger6924]

now an easy diy gimbal!!!

[@lyu0001]

Amazing work!

[@naami2004]

Very good job ! love it

[@MilitarySeeman]

Everything in order, like in Germany and in the germans. :)

[@judck]

I hope you post a timelapse video using it.

[@dangersdnb]

nice build! would, have been ace to add camera control so you could use it for time lapses too

[@rammsund]

"And a little bit of locktite" No. That is way to much loctite. A small dab on the threads is enough. :)

[@oskarosaurus8770]

hey :) great vid. i'd love to see you make a diy motorised standing desk. Grüße aus Hannover:)

[@supersu5406]

Maybe use another camera Mount which is closer to The moving platform and also put maybe some weigth under it. I think The wobbling is a weigth Problem also i would secure The Pipes with Not Just One bolt, i saw at The end they were shorter than before and Just secured with One bolt per side+platform.

[@alvarorodriguez4557]

Awesome, great video Scott :D

[@netcom4248]

Nice! Really very good work. I tried to do like u, but I could not find the schimit trigger ic, can I remove it from the diagram and connect the rotary encoder directly with arduino pin D2, D3 and use Debounce2 library instead?

[@kevindelima4829]

thanx and great vid

[@SamuelCarreira]

Hi great video! Why do you choose to use a hardware debounce method instead a software solution? Any advantages? Thank you

[@dominikpitz6538]

how about mounting the camera underneath the rails to minimize wobble? also great work, keep it up

[@charlese40187]

Could you make a video of your lab setup and possible links to the components you use? I'm looking to by a variable bench power supply but I dont want to get cheap one and have issues with it, thanks in advance.

[@nateh2665]

I was expecting a simple video on how to connect a motor already designed for sliders to a manual slider hahah good stuff though.

[@rustbeltrestoration]

Hi Scott

[@HOW_SELL]

Take some 20mm linear rods and the Problem is solved!! But at all as always a realy good video

[@daziefernandes6245]

i love your work.. n keep it up

[@Prouser123]

Great part 2. Love your videos and keep it up! Also, your videos can be watched again and again, and that's a good thing. :)

[@MrNeOCzx]

Nice video mate, very educational, really enjoyed your videos. Keep it up :)

[@AhmedSLilah]

pleas make a vedio to show us if we can connect an Arduino board with a raspberry pi not just to program the Arduino but to make them do jobs together each on by it's features and if it possible make a project that combine both of the boards and keep going in these vedioes I watch you from Egypt and iam inspired with what you do

[@TomRoot]

Will you ever do a video on shift registers?

[@BadassUchiha]

You should see diy perks camera slider

[@CrazyFilmsofficial]

next you diy slider update. you should use 2040 aluminuim extrusion and some roller wheels.

[@artjar1000]

microstepping doesn't work so if I use the 470K resistor from M0-GND do I still need to connect it to D10 on the nano or I just connect the M1 to D11? thanks for the answer​

[@Od3o_ela_sabil_rabek]

What's the function of schmitt trigger ic?What's bouncing?

[@jearl961]

Why didn't you print the enclosure on its side to reduce the support/waste and maybe better print?

[@basilbatov]

So how slow can the slider go (time) with that stepper motor?

[@greatscottlab]

40 minutes with smooth movement.

[@basilbatov]

GreatScott! Thanks for the reply.