Make your own Sensored ESC || Electric Bike Conversion (Part 1)

[@northshorepx]

What a great project. I love how your earlier videos are now making it easier for me to follow your block diagram with a a minimum of explanation. Normally I'd think - why an inverting Schmidt Trigger? But now I see oh the P channels can be driven with it and no further explanation. Thanks for such great content.

[@wi_zeus6798]

Should you ever want to use the full potential of such a motor, I'd definitely recommend torque-arms! I built something similar with a VESC and the steel of my bike was deformed rather drastically (after about one month of driving around). Please add regenerative braking too, it would be extremely interesting to see that implemented. Since I'm already asking, some current shunts for power measurements would be a nice touch too ;)

[@LoganT547]

Manuauto another idea is recycle a Fisher and Paykel washer motor.

[@KerbalLauncher]

It already has regenerative braking, if the motor is running at say 20% max speed and you feed 10% duty cycle, current will backfeed into the supply because of the inductance of the motor windings.

[@Lagggerengineering]

I am sitting here like... try a 48V power supply maybe? :D

[@LiamTronix]

I have a feeling this is why you've been experimenting with building 18650 packs recently...

[@greatscottlab]

Possible...

[@LoganT547]

GreatScott! I was just wondering if you will be comparing the new raspberry pi 3b+ with another board???

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

+Logan, probably pointless RPi 3B+ is behind many existing boards in regard of tech features but it has great software support and community

[@hjw5774]

I appreciate that you'll probably never see this comment - however I just wanted to thank you for this video and all your other videos. I'm in great awe of your electrical abilities as well as your language skills. Keep it up!

[@JOELwindows7]

0:05 Yes, my region is *burning hot* since April. 1:01 long intro *world record?!* 1:46 long intro ends! *Lets get started!!* 7:56 Duper Awesome!!!!

[@ericviger4984]

I gotta say man, your solder joints are top notch!!!

[@terminashunator]

As an avid eBike cyclist, I really enjoyed your video! Just so you know, you can remove the disc from your old wheel and use it with the eBike hub if your alignment is correct. The six hex screws on the side of the motor should align with the holes on the disc rotor from your stock bike wheel. This project is really interesting to me, since I play with RC rock crawlers (that use brushless sensored motors) and eBikes (also use sensored motor). Keep up the great work!

[@jarenhudson9794]

The whisper... And I love your Videos. Great work Great Scott. I'm sure you get that way too much. I appreciate your thorough explanations and "rebuilding the wheel" approach to help yourself and others understand.

[@rodrigo_dm]

My week wont start till i get a new GreatScott video. Nice as always

[@MC-01]

Your english is getting even better when ever you make a video keep up the good work hope you get a 1Million Subscribers 👍👍👍

[@ams0063]

Wooow who else never saw that awesome cycle before ? Awesome great Scott. Cycling itself is ecofriendly and this awesome project made it even awesome.

[@ShaneMatthews27]

BE CAREFUL!! that front fork looks like an aluminum one to me. You should NEVER use a hub motor with aluminum forks. I learned this the hard way. My fork failed and caused me to have a severe accident that landed me in the hospital for two days, suffering a concussion, severe abrasions to my face and shoulder, as well as a lacerated liver. On my new bike I have used a steel fork and welded on reinforcements on the front and back to make darn sure that it does not fail again. These things are very dangerous when not used correctly, as I learned.

[@omprakashmaurya611]

Thanks for the tip!

[@silicongarden]

If using aluminum forks then you can always use a torque arm to absorb the load.

[@DigBipper188]

It depends massively on the power of the motor as well as how much metal is in the dropout area. I would highly advise against going with motors with a power output greater than 500 watts if you have an Al fork unless you have the ability to fit some decent quality torque arms to the bile to prevent fatigue. Although even with a 250w geared motor I would ensure you use a torque arm wherever possible. Especially if you have thin Alu dropouts... My bike has done over 6000 miles since I went with a BLDC kit using a 450w controller on a geared hub motor just for reference. It's done a fantastic job so far of getting me from A to B only needing the wheel off for basic maintenance (tube changes for example). and each time I've checked to ensure there was no bending or cracking, and so far, there hasn't been any. That said, the dropouts on my forks are surprisingly beefy!!

[@rickrandazzo]

Yep. He's running 1000w motor. Mine run 25 to 30mph, even hitting up to 35mph. You do not want to have a catastrophic failure at those speeds.

[@DonPavardenis]

My favourite electronics diy KZbinr!! Scott i learned so much from you, keep up good work brother.

[@Cambpictures]

Hope you get it working! I bought a 1.5kw version and they are loads of fun! I would recommend though if you get a motor larger than 1kw that you get a sturdy bike like a Mountain bike or a fat bike. City bikes simply just won't do.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Very nice job as always. Fella KZbinr here, working on same project. Already have a few prototypes. How much power will draw that huge motor? Can't wait to see second video where I guess you'll test the bike around using your ESC. Keep up good work!

[@greatscottlab]

Well, I will probably not use my own ESC for the second part of the video series. But I think a test run with it will follow.

[@northshorepx]

@electroboobs I love your channel too!

[@abbasmaghazehi8630]

Hi Andrei!, from my own project, those hub motors usually consume about 16-20Amps of current at initial start, then when the speed rises, it drops to around 10Amps

[@anycatdessai]

You've been of great help regarding quad-0copter construction.

[@TheIdiotPlays]

northshorepx electroboobs lol

[@officializm4171]

What kind of king you are GreatScott. :)

[@rexczi6299]

Was just about to build one too!! Now you started a series! Yess!!

[@cyrustakem7993]

your perf board skills are on point, nice

[@greatscottlab]

Thanks

[@jeremyseelig2432]

Holy shit, i dont understand a thing what he talks about but everything he says sounds just to confident and good

[@bobalong131]

Heads up if you haven't looked into it already. The front wheel electric motors will often turn inside the front fork either cracking it or rounding out the section and subsequently winding up all the wire and possibly losing the wheel. been there done that lol

[@R3MIXMODZ]

A couple years ago, my parents had a motorized bike that the base was a cooler so it was a motorized cooler to hold drinks and stiff. It ended up breaking(which was probably a simple fix) and they sold it at a sale for $50. Sadly I wish we still had it because I love to work on that stuff and I would have had a great time with it.

[@kedarprabhudessai]

Great Scott and electronoobs are going hand in hand. Great keep it up👍

[@CSparzo]

Hey Scott, I think I found an error in your code and a reason why the motor wouldn't spin very fast. In your switch cases I think you have your ports D and B backwards for case 3, 4, and 5. If you look at the direction (DDRD) registers in setup() you are manipulating registers that you haven't declared as output, which also happens to be exactly flipped between D and B. I think the only thing you'll need to do is flip them back. Another reason the wheel won't spin quickly is because you only had it hooked to 15 volts. From the looks of it you'll need at least 36.

[@bunnypeople]

Who the hell downvotes your videos? Seriously???

[@rizkyp]

why would anyone dislike a project video like this?

[@apurvsharma1261]

Finally After a Long Time New Series Like electric Skateboard TY GREAT :)

[@Vindix007]

I like your channel. Greetings from Brazil.

[@Pawelr98]

This is why I use Brushed DC. Simple PWM and no extensive electronics. May be less efficient, true but it's much easier to repair (both motor and controller) and cheaper.May jump BLDC once I get some funds and gain experience with current Brushed-DC setup.

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

Getting an e-bike is on my to do list, so this is going to be helpful for me.

[@anycatdessai]

Again you deliver a video about something I was researching about. Great job! I'll be working on this too in some months hopefully.

[@yuzhang3243]

It's amazing. I always enjoy watching your videos.

[@RoamingAdhocrat]

Great videos! Now the series is complete it'd be pretty helpful to have links to part 2 and 3 in the description here.

[@Pneumaticcannon]

You might need torque arms !! Otherwise the axle will spin in your dropouts. Also the speed co troller that comes with the kit has a low voltage cutoff to protect a battery! Awesome build :)

[@embeddedbastler6406]

Dear GreatScott. In my opinion you use too much close up shots in your videos. Its kinda hard to follow if you have not enough overview. Thanks

[@JanCiger]

GreatScott, your driver has one serious problem - if you only use inverters to switch between the FETs, there is no dead time. The transistors don't turn off instantaneously, so you are going to have very nasty current spikes (shoot-through) because for a short moment both transistors are on, causing a short circuit across the power rails. That's bad both because it will cause the FETs to get hot (or even blow them up), because you are generating a ton of EMI with it and also because it wastes energy, which is important if you want to run this from a battery on a bike. That's why proper FET drivers for half bridges have an option to set dead time. Many microcontrollers designed for driving motors/bridges have an option to generate programmable dead time too. If you are using an Arduino (ATMega328 and similar), you will have to generate this dead time in software by inserting a delay between switching one FET off and the other from the pair on. You will pretty much never see a simple inverter used in this kind of application.

[@svg98]

I am so happy that you keep uploading, thank you! Have fun with your bike ;)

[@CristalianaIvor]

I thought about making my own pedilac and powering it mainly with solar panels. Just think about it: when your battery runs dry you just chillex on a green lawn, unfold your solar panel, eat, drink, chill and then after an hour you have power again. or even mount the solarpanel in a way that it charges the bike all the time. at least the math somehow adds up: a foldable 80W panel should be small enough, but provide enough power even on cloudy days.

[@VariasCapivarias]

Omg. You have videos for everything

[@jensk3767]

Love seeing a Geodreieck in action :D

[@POTATOEMPN]

I have no idea wtf any of this is, but I keep watching your videos because I feel like I am learning something, even if its just a little bit lol

[@elii__.1232]

Really well done....a Project for the future you could build youre own racing drone

[@andycapo9you]

The best conversion is the Tongsheng Or Bafang BBS02/ HD. Mid drive has the controller inside and looks much better on a bike. Yo also keep both original wheels that are most of the times better than the one that comes with the motor. You can also use your rear gears to get a more efficient ride. The screen on those mid drive motors are nicer too

[@sidneymuli8560]

I just love your creativity

[@cameron20020]

Once again, excellent work. Love the level of detail!

[@MCsCreations]

Really awesome work, man! Really nice! 😀

[@lennox1558]

At first I read '' how to make your own censored esc'' 😂😂 But as always great video!

[@mattiapassera5084]

Very cool, I'm working on a PIC based one, it is very time consuming but also a lot of fun!

[@xxmountaindewxx7893]

Morgen in der Bild: Student fährt mit Fahrrad auf die Autobahn!

[@Michael_Michaels]

This is a great project!! Really nice one!

[@LazerLord10]

I'm currently working on an electric scooter project, and the ESC (and motor) I have are both sensorless. It kinda works, but fixing the problem seems to involve buying an ESC that's far too expensive. Any recommendations?

[@jakegarrett8109]

I've seen a $20 ESC power a pretty big brushless motor (actually it was a full size car alternator being used as a brushless motor, so pretty big). As long as its not over 500 watt, I think it shouldn't cost too much, but it also depends on the voltage. 12v (3s Lipo) is usually pretty cheap, but getting into 48v or something like this video might be expensive, so it kind of depends on the motor you want to run.

[@93matarl]

great video, tanks for explaining the hall effect sensor in a good practical way, keep up the great work.

[@giannebaron6139]

Can't wait for the next part!

[@uday88121]

Best project. I just love your videos. I am too electronic enthusiast. Keep it up

[@GuilhermeGumerato]

Hi, first of all, i whould like to say congratulations! Your channel is amazing and helpfull a lot on my projects. What about to create a serie, in which you analyze the projects of the followers, giving suggestions and tips to improve them?

[@HaLo2FrEeEk]

This is great! I've been thinking about getting a bike and converting it to an electric bike for commuting to and from work once it gets into the warmer months.

[@praveenelumalai7624]

Awesome!I love your project and likes to watch in the next few of upload

[@sss-tw3jh]

I built one of these with a gas two stroke motor that drove the rear wheel, and an electric wheel for the front. It was two wheel drive. Electric gas human power hybrid. I took apart the twist for the electric kit throttle and figured out how to make it activate the motor at %100 power with just a switch, that way i could stuff that switch into a brake lever, and wire the cable for the carburator onto that lever. So one lever would drive both the gas and electric motor at the same time. I also had two switches next to that lever. One of them was the kill switch for the gas, the other was the kill switch for the electric. So i could change between front and rear wheel drive, both, and or human power. But then i just bought a motorcycle and stuffed that Frankenstein thig in a storage unit.

[@Elisworkshop]

Hi great Scott! This was a great video, you are a genius! There is one thing I really want to point out to you for your own good. I have made many ebikes, I purchased a hub motor for the front just like you. When I put it on my bike the hub motor the second I put power to it on the ground the mounting taps broke on the forks. I don’t know what it is but the magnesium alloy is very brittle to the motors torque. I really hope you see this because I have broken 3 forks like that and had to get steel ones. I think it’s a huge safety hazard and don’t want it to happen to you!!!

[@UselessDuckCompany]

I'm jealous I still have snow outside

[@aayush3782]

Useless Duck Company I'm Jealous, It never snows here 😧

[@felixgamingvlog6702]

same spesialy if you life in asia (south east asian)

[@aayush3782]

felix gaming vlog Yeah. India

[@lukemagdalin6169]

lol its snowing right now in spring XD

[@lukemagdalin6169]

you should invest in fake snow XD

[@redhalahlouhi9033]

Such a professional Work from you keep on :)

[@73notch]

Hmmmmmm...should I get a 48V battery, or design a brand new ESC from scratch to allow 30V? Although 1000x harder, I’m glad you went with the latter 👍🏻

[@PhG1961]

Great video ! I love your work !

[@phinok.m.628]

Yeah, I wouldn't do that if efficiency is something you care about (6:45)... If you wanna use a PWM-ish approach to control the speed, by only applying voltage for a limited amount of time, be sure to leave the phases floating while not applying voltage (except during regenerative braking of course).

[@steve0steel]

Great video, but attention: There have been some bad accidents with these kits, because the front wheel isn't designed to take the pulling force and can break off mid-riding!

[@jakegarrett8109]

That's weird, must be some cheap/really bad bikes. I have one of my bikes powered by a 3.5 HP (2.6 kW) chainsaw engine, it can do burn outs and smoke tires too fast for me to afford except occasionally. The bikes I've used were already super cheap (one of them cost $5 at a thrift store). That's not the only front wheel drive bike, the other was powered by a much more mundane grass trimmer. Its top speed is only 28 mph for legal reasons (legal for most states in the US without insurance or licence), and I took it off road jumping terraces in fields and some small natural ramps my cousins and I usually jump quad bikes on. Never had an issue with the bikes/frames/tires handling it. The big difference is my power is not delivered through the spokes (pulley is another bike rim welded to the normal wheel rim, or riveted together for alloy wheels). I think even my Binachi road race bike would be fine with electric (front fork is carbon fiber and kevlar hybrid weave), but I could see maybe a defective knock off carbon fork snapping (they can already do that on some potholes in the road, if they are made bad).

[@kubburdigital]

hey i want to know more about that, could you link something please

[@jakegarrett8109]

FPV Kubbur Sorry, too many people would copy my design without giving any design fee. I've put in hundreds of hours designing and hundreds more testing (also materials, I broke a couple engine shafts so the design has been updated, I test these to the limits and beyond). Too many people would just steal my design and hard work. That's why I don't post videos of them, some copy cat would feel entitled.

[@kubburdigital]

Jake Garrett no I meant the breaking off the front wheel

[@jakegarrett8109]

FPV Kubbur Oh yeah, that would be a fun compilation. I imagine most failures would be from uneven spoke tension or way too loose spokes. My cousin drives the back wheels with a 212cc engine that can do wheelies at an 800 rpm idle. He has managed to brake some stuff, but those were due to bad design for the most part. One of those was spoke failure, but he was drag racing it against me and that put a rediculous strain on the spokes... I doubt the forks would break, after all they need to withstand impact and the brakes (which are enourmous loads, probably in the 4 kW range). I know my disk brakes are mounted on a pathetic quality wheel (thought the rims might just snap while tensioning spokes...).

[@Andrey43915]

Nice sponsor! Thank you! :D

[@Rajkumar-kn1uv]

Keep it up,You are doing great🙂

[@OliverHynds]

scott

[@EngineeringNS]

You better finish this project!

[@adithyapillai4259]

Awesome Video as always. Keep up the Good Work :D

[@thecubinggamer2191]

Great video. I built a similar ebike but with a rear hub motor. I think with the front hub motors you have to be carful to make sure that the front forks can take the force. I’m just using stock ESC for mine, I’m interested to how yours will turn out.

[@mustardroshi418]

This some tony stark tech right there zer good

[@satriorudi7940]

You great can create your own circuit i admire you job

[@anlpereira]

Waiting anxiously for the second video. I hope you find out why it is to slow. Thanks

[@sciencechemistry9259]

Great video keep up the good work

[@TECHWITHGAYAN]

GreatScott! Can i konow something.😇 what is your voice recording equipment?

[@anlpereira]

Hi Scott, another thing I would like to see. Could you make some deep approach showing the relationship between number of poles of stator and rotor. Where to place the magnets and when to commute phases. I don't see, for example, a motor with same number of poles in stator and rotor. Thanks a million

[@vgamesx1]

I'm no e-bike expert but I've read that it's not the best idea to replace the front wheel, it technically shouldn't be a problem for motors under 1000W however, a normal bike frame isn't designed to handle the reverse stress put on it from the motor, this is especially bad if your bike is made out of aluminum, since if it does fail it'll just snap unlike a heavier metal such as steel which will slowly bend out of shape and give plenty of time to notice the failure and as you can imagine it would be pretty painful if not fatal to be traveling at 20mph (32kph) and have a frame failure, so personally I would rather not take the risk and just avoid frontal installations or at the very least take it as a serious issue and add some torque arms to reinforce it.

[@paulmacgiollacaoine8619]

Super video. What pitch are your perfboards?

[@reinveenstra1]

Great video! What is going on with the diy jbc soldering station? Are you still using it? If you don’t, what are you using as your main soldering station at this moment

[@surajjr7235]

Thank you! @Greatscott! Great job as always... I am also working on a similar project. Can this circuit be used with a input supply voltage of 48V?

[@Edainboy]

@Greatscott, what happens when we increase the voltage?

[@胡飞-g8j]

Sorry,I have a question. The TC4427 chip's operating range 4.5V to 18V,why you use LM7815 15V regulator? why don't use the LM7805 5V regulator ？ Could the three pieces of TC4427 & one 74HC14 Hex Inverter Schmitt Trigger share the output of LM7805 5V regulator?

[@timramich]

I don't get the problem with just getting 48v worth of batteries...

[@westonsmith7858]

What ever happened to how to make a drone

[@shreyasdetA]

Check out his Q&A video

[@jamest.5001]

Weston Smith its going to be a EBike / Drone! next level Ebike! ride and fly!!! ha I wish. I'd like to see that!!!

[@shijupmohammed]

Weston Smith shall I get circuit diagram

[@CSparzo]

Where do those two electrolytic capacitors go in the schematic? I notice they are in a few of the images but not in the schematic.

[@albertox0404]

Hi, nice video, I recommend you to use the irfs7530 mosfet for this kind is currents. See the Vesc project of Benjamin Vedder, it can be very useful for your esc. Hello from Salamanca (Spain)

[@thokankit007]

How about IRF3710. will it work with it?

[@thokankit007]

great tip on mosfet . thanks

[@mtalhakhalid1679]

Great videos you are like Linux user find the solution of problems by yourself

[@liamduncan7096]

Solar generator is what we should all aspire to. Seen it on you tube

[@rajeshkanna6596]

Thank God you made a video on this

[@abbasmaghazehi8630]

Very Nice video GreatScott! I was looking forward to when you would make the Sensord version of the ESC Controller :) If your looking into a more better version and faster speed, I have created my own design for our competition at Shell Eco Marathon Asia 2018. Would be glad to share it with you

[@abhijithekv]

Can you share it with me?

[@jotarolevagabon8030]

I would love to make an electric bmx but I dont know how to do that :( Great video btw keep doin it man that's dope

[@josephnealescratchcards]

Interesting video as always

[@bboyandrezzz8237]

who are you ? good job man i am going to suscribe

[@TheMechanicGamerVids]

An amazing video as usual

[@venuji1]

An awesome project to get inspired thank you great scott sir for inspiring me you are my teacher i regard as like that

[@thokankit007]

Great video and clarity in explanation. it is good for rotating the wheel with no load but if will burn out if u use it for the eBike. i would be great to see a real 48v version of this. i have been trying my own but current level is too high.

[@NNNILabs]

Anyone getting Reps vibes?

[@MrOverlader]

Me too!

[@WorkinDuck]

Reps Circuit was much cooler. Big heatsinks, sketchy controls and much power.

[@theGODliebl]

Is there any advantages on using N-fet mosfets only, or is this configuration with P-N mosfets better?

[@greatscottlab]

You can not easily use N-Channel MOSFETs for high side switching.

[@theGODliebl]

GreatScott! in spite of that I saw a lot of people using N-channel MOSFETs for high side configuration with bootstrap capacitors, but I don't really know de advantages of it. thanks for answering me, really love your videos!!

[@kasunchamara7497]

Stay Creative And We Will See You Next Time.....

[@wwklnd]

I would love to see you attempt to build a BLDC motor from scratch!

Can you make a video about home automation with Arduino (with voice commands)?

[@Wilson84KS]

partly he did, just look in his videos.