Making 3D prints actually waterproof

[@CPSdrone]

Here are all the models from the video: www.printables.com/model/768471-waterproof-3d-printing-tests-oceangate-titan Have fun and don't make full scale models!

[@czaro8006]

Studenci PG na Traugutta? 🤣

[@OneHappyCrazyPerson]

Whahahaha oceangate test models 😂😂

[@johnnyrocket3200]

Pro Tip: When staying in one unit, positions after the decimal point are called out one by one. So 0.25g is "zero point two five gramm" otherwise good luck with pi. ;-) With money, you change units. 3,75€ is three euros and seventy-five cents. That's why "three seventy-five" is ok. Same with hight.

[@justusxavierbarboza246]

oh no mini oceangate sub has imploded

[@Khorde_theHusk]

why not paint the 3D print in a layer of epoxy to fill the pores?

[@tricycleboi]

I like how he prints the scissors gripper to prevent himself from touching the dichtol but still dips his fingers in it to use the grapper

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Why use the appropriate gloves when you can over engineer a solution, right?

[@BobWidlefish]

@@BrunodeSouzaLinoengineer a solution then not use it.

[@roidroid]

This is the first video I've seen on this channel. Is it a parody channel? The switch from "this stuff will kill you if you touch it" to "I'm too stupid to care" made me legit angry. There's also other weird inaccuracies in the vid that ppl who know about water pressure should know better than. If the whole video is parody then that would make sense. edit: it's possible the other inaccuracies were just language issues tho.

[@tricycleboi]

@@roidroid ok sure thing blud

[@TwigPB]

@@roidroid Bro doesn't understand jokes

[@Twig_ash2610]

That creation in the thumbnail is absolutely *imploding*

[@DaPigeonGameer]

💀

[@yigaclangaming]

💀

[@SubSpaceSans]

💀

[@jmramirezp1]

💀

[@Sputnick_00]

💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

That 3D metal sub was cool. You're probably right that it could go deeper then the real thing

[@Goofyahh_shark]

💀💀💀💀💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

@@Goofyahh_shark 💀💀💀

[@jeremy6384]

Is the bottom of the ocean not deep enough?

[@Sainsburys_Femboy]

@@CarlinPlayz💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

@@jeremy6384 nah. Gotta go deep. Like Europa deeper. I'm pretty sure those oceans are much deeper then earth's

[@fin7152]

In industry, reinforced O-rings are used to seal vacuum lines. These have a metal ring on the vacuum side that prevents the seal from slipping.

[@fin7152]

google centering ring ISO-K to see it

[@noen-_-7446]

I love all the little jokes and reverence in the video, makes the video way more fun to watch and gives a nice atmosphere.

[@siz1700]

I can’t say that this atmosphere is ideal, but at least it’s better with it than without it 🤭

[@sydnerd]

Props to JLCPCB/3DP for supporting this channel, shame others wouldn't because you folks are doing an amazing educational and inspirational job combined with top tier engineering.

[@AronFigaro]

Cheers from the openROV team. We actually thermally annealed our PLA to waterproof ours back in 2014, and this worked quite well by boiling them in hot water just to the point of deforming and then letting them cool. If you get the temp correctly it will work, though less well for solid fill.

[@bendixflight7310]

0:55 better performance than the real thing

[@TheCuteOscar]

💀💀💀

[@luketrain6270]

That’s crazy

[@IsaiahLynch-dj3iy]

Yes

[@anglebracketsemicolonthree]

💀

[@Arek_R.]

Doing second process with the dichtol stuff probably will seal it even more. Btw. another technique to seal a FDM 3DP is by printing it in ABS and then doing acetone smoothing, it dissolves surface of the part and once dried creates solid layer all around.

[@scoopidyschloop]

I love all the little jokes and reverence in the video, makes the video way more fun to watch and gives a nice atmosphere.

[@waterstudio5571]

I have some reasons for love your videos: 1. Good video editing 2. Stilling voice 3. Gripping content

[@bodach2921]

You can put the print in dichtol and put it in a vacuum chamber. This allows air to escape from the pores and at normal pressure the dichtol diffuses into the pores.

[@maximthemagnificent]

Love your sense of humor.

[@saturated2350]

Would be quite interesting if someone made a full scale model for testing!

[@draco5991rep]

I would use carbonfibre for the hull, since it is pretty stronk. Also it doesen't like to deform 🤡

[@happninmojo]

I can take millionaires for rides in it!

[@happninmojo]

It's pretty expensive, I'll save money by using an xbox controller to pilot it.

[@draco5991rep]

@@happninmojo genius idea, we should start a company but what should we call it 🤔

[@paulrippcord506]

@@draco5991rep The name should reflect that we are a gateway to the ocean, any ideas?

[@segment932]

To both prevent water damage your electronics and make the sub survive a deeper dive you could submerge the electronics in baby oil. Then the submarine drone don't have any air in it, thus can not break from over pressure.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Or ordinary mineral oil, to avoid that smell reminding you of changing time and diaper rash.

[@bastienx8]

It's the same thing used in some dive watch, it prevent them to collapse, and since oil dont mix well with water it also prevent small water drops to enter.

[@johns_craft8582]

Also get a better receiver so the controller dosent disconnect

[@Duolingo.524]

The sub I think comes with a Xbox

[@AnotherOtherMan-alive]

When using a gasket or o-ring, you need to design around it with a groove for it and having multiple sealing layers. You want to maximise the path the water takes to get in from a deliberate opening.

[@LeeRox91]

You could use a "clear transparent" setting for getting a really solid print which reduces gaps in between layer walls

[@magdalenao4229]

Panowie wysoki poziom. Fantastycznie opowiadacie o swojej pracy. Czapki z głów. Powodzenia

[@decoy741]

A najważniejsze jest to że on jest Polakiem najprawdopodobniej

[@beatrizmf9965]

He is polish

[@armanayuban9225]

@@beatrizmf9965 okay

[@Travis141123]

I used to repair cracked/seeping plastic fuel tanks by pulling a vacuum on it, then applying epoxy. The same could be done with your printed vessel and the dichtol. Also pressure regulating the hull is a good idea.

[@glenndhooge6787]

it's awsome to see you guys continously working to improve your underwater drones

[@atranas6018]

I just painted the FDM prints with thick paint & brush when I need it to be water/gas-proof. Works every time.

[@DrTheRich]

For the O ring, you need to design the seating of the seal in such a way that the pressure of the water tightens the seal. then the higher the pressure, they better the seal.

[@Ironarmgaming1]

0:32 I’m pretty sure your hull is more resistant than the real ocean gate one was

[@ryanswn8753]

LMAO

[@toniweldon21]

💀

[@Robinlarsson83]

One note about o-rings and other rubber seals, the one you used looked more like a EPDM "string" rather than an o-ring. Way better to design around an off the shelf available o-ring (proper one in fairly hard NBR or similar rubber) than trying to glue something together. Glueing seals with CA glue or really any glue that is harder than the rubber will be a problem, it creates a hard point that almost always leaks. The usual way of doing it is to have nice cuts that mates well and make the seal a bit to long, so the ends gets compressed into each other. No glue :) Or getting some way to vulcanise the rubber together, but yeah :P

[@Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer]

"creates a hard point that almost always leaks" sounds right, but is completely wrong. I've worked at Engineered Pressure Systems ( EPSI) at Sint Niklaas for seven years and we ALWAYS glue the large O rings (Nitrile cord) with a standard cyanocrylate glue, because noone makes standard O rings with a 800-1000 mm diameter at an acceptable price and delivery time. Perpendicular cut with a sharp knife . These O rings will easily seal high pressure vessels up to 9000 bar (900Mpa). BUT you need a very proper fitting groove and the exact amount of compression for a proper seal. I don't think he used an EPDM cord, but a nitrile one. Of course you're absolutely right about designing around an off the shelf standard is always better . In this case I 'm pretty sure the leak comes from the fact that his O ring is rather thick and not properly pressured ( seriously only 4 little screws holding the lid down ?? )

[@golden-c1y]

i died laughing when i saw the submarine

[@ShawZ-b6z]

Finally waiting for you to release a new video. I'm so excited.

[@HalalMuaz]

titanic is a legend: 1912: 1500 kills 2023: 5 assists

[@KiritaChan]

You could of use resin printers because it just prints each layer in a second because it uses uv lights to solified it

[@KaliKavala]

Guys, there is a Prusa wiki article for the infill types in 3d printing. THere are a few that are extremely well for filling up the infill part with something. This way you can print your model and fill up the "infill" space with 2 part resign. After curing it should be pretty much waterproof inner skin of your model.

[@EKUL34]

I needed to make prints air tight under significant pressure, I found a few layers of spay clear coat automotive paint works well.

[@hazimreitz]

The design is very human

[@Smartnerrd115]

Fr lol

[@raihands6244]

Qwertyuiopfhy

[@WebbHelin]

Everyone has been made for some particular work, and the desire for that work has been put in every heart.

[@ClevelandSamuel-m3q]

People take different roads seeking fulfilment and happiness. Just because theyre not on your road doesn't mean they've gotten lost.

[@Max-mb2el]

“i think it will collapse”

[@Giyutomiokashinobu]

E

[@Marder_IFV]

A

[@BrandingIsHard]

Sports it's in the game

[@thisaccountwillhelpmechang86]

Please pay 500 dollars to continue

[@jedert9774]

That submarine design is amazing I bet it would make it to the Titanic

[@imtube333]

hahahahahaha

[@eliel_360]

ermmm actually, the Titan did actually made it to Titanic multiple times 🤓

[@ploomike]

@@eliel_360no it didn’t

[@eliel_360]

@@ploomike buddy, yes it did

[@ploomike]

@@eliel_360im sorry I rechecked it and it made 23 trips 13 of which made it to the titanic

[@Devills_hill]

Funfact: opensls brings sls printing to the hobby space for 2000-2500 euro. Print metal at home with lasers!

[@ishanmelwani6924]

Awesome!! Super interested about your DIY Pressure chamber, do you have any vids/posts talking about how you made it?

[@TriremeBoy]

This is probably the best Dichstol advertisment

[@AubreyFelix-k6f]

She felt that chill that makes the hairs on the back of your neck when he walked into the room.

[@porek965]

"Actually i think this hull might be pretty pressure resistant." Leaked footage from certain ocean exploring company

[@Jack-ny7kn]

I don't know about those extreme depths, but I've had good luck with just spray painting 3d prints to make them waterproof, in case someone is looking for a cheap solution that doesn't require special handling precautions.

[@raphaelboll6096]

With the Oring test i think it might be better to either use more screws or maybe even print the entire cap with a built in thread, since it only needs to tighten enough to press on the o ring consistently. You can look at watch caseback designs here. The caseback has a thread and screws onto the case, making enough pressure on the (sometimes multiple) O-rings to withstand immense depths. Most common dive watches are certified to 200m but it is not uncommon for them to go to 600m. Some of them like the omega Ploprof or the rolex deepsea can go far deeper than that (some have been taken to the mariana trench on the outside of a submarine)

[@bastienx8]

These dive watch are often filled with oil to prevent them to collapse, and since oil dont mix well with water it also prevent small water drops to enter.

[@dutch_person6634]

bro just simulated the titan

[@Thegoofygoober-f5s]

Hopefully that 3D print of the ocean-gate, submarine doesn’t explode

[@notfunnirobloxyt9494]

I love the subnnatica reference!

[@jamster2400]

I used to work for a vacuum cleaner company as a designer and we used a product called nanoseal to make our fdm printed parts water / airtight.

[@damianbrew5056]

Super materiał. Przyjemnie się ogląda, tak 3mać:) Jako że pracuje w różnych technologiach druku 3d to podpowiem: MJF, SLS i SLM to technologie druku w proszku i nie da się drukować w nich zamkniętych pustych przestrzeni jeśli nie zrobi się otworu na wysypianie nieutwardzonego/s topionego proszku. Więc jeśli rozetniecie te wydruki to albo wysypie się z nich proszek albo technik w firmie zauważył ten problem i poprawił modele że są pewne w środku bez powietrza i bez luźnego proszku. Powodzenia w kolejnych eksperymentach!

[@bimodesign1815]

What if metal plating the submarine, I don't think iron man drinks water.😂

[@I.no.ah.guy57]

I love your videos guys, and the scientific process you guys have and the documentation as well! Keep it up!

[@jackzhao604]

During my undergraduate years our additive manufacturing lab was just comparing how different post processes can increase 3D print integrity, and realized heat and pressure treatment can help layers better bond and reduce the “ pores” under microscope it looked much more adherent almost like a injection molded part, and the tensile strength increased drastically. Maybe that could also help with water proof? But it wouldn’t technically be only made from 3D print since post processing is involved

[@julianpalmer4674]

Rather than trying to make the electronics container conpletely water proof, have you considered using a high pressure gas supply (CO2) cartridge for example with a regulator to pressurise the inside of the container to maintain an acceptable pressure differential between the inside and outside? Using an automatic vent valve to perge the pressure as you then come back up. Your depth limit then is really the pressure of the gas in your pressuising 'air supply'. Look at how a diver in a dry suit stops getting pinched by his suit as he goes deeper, as well as controlling his bouyancy. Just a suggestion.

[@simonryske4975]

you have the polish version of "la gotita" (the superglue), I didnt even knew it existed

[@simonryske4975]

im flabergasted

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

Tbh the Way you do the Drones with the watertight pressure resistant tube inside the shells, is how actual submarines work. Like for ex the Russian typhoon, is an outer aerodynamic hull and stealth hull. And the there's 3 or 4 pressure tubes inside, and ut doesn't that wat natter if some water gets trough the first layer

[@AlJay0032]

If you want to use O-rings, make a grove, smaller than the volume of the O-ring and make the surfaces conical so the higher the pressure gets, the more the tube presses on the end piece.

[@etreimanis]

Holy c, this video was so good. What material did you use, as I see Dickgreat does not support PETG? Also, what material O-rings did you use for the door submarine?

[@Adventures_EC]

error: the ordered ones based on powder methods, they contain powder inside because of the design

[@SLJedits]

Bro is so good at 3d printing that his ocean gate didt crumble

[@Denis_Stein]

What type of plastic did you use for FDM printing? This is a fundamentally important issue, since of all plastics, only PETG provides the best adhesion between layers.

[@Sphyxx]

You should use a vacuum chamber to soak the dichtol into it faster

[@Aviation-PTFS]

6:31 it might be that there is air inside the sub, and when it “come back up” the air will expand or be larger, for example if I were to take a balloon filled with air underwater, it’s going to get smaller because all of the pressure around it, but when I bring it back to the surface it’ll become bigger again

[@KingJeffKiller]

Could you please build a lifesize model and proof yourself that its stronger than carbon

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Did you try annealing it by baking the print buried in salt or really fine sand? One alternative to try would be removing all the air from the print whilst having it submerged in stabilizing resin, then baking it. In theory, that would do the same thing as dichtol but less dangerous, as you'd be filling all the pores in the structure with resin, then crystalizing it into the model by baking it.

[@avigetsbored]

i wonder what the performance of a nontoxic conformal coatings or nail polish would be on water proofing it, i've used both to effectively weatherproof pcbs and it could be a less toxic alternative to the dichtol stuff

[@oljobo]

My first idea was using lightweight PLA (with deliberate foaming), and then dip it into - or paint it with epoxy, which will be absorbed into the print, making it very solid and also waterproof.

[@chimee1237]

8:37 “This cup is extremely toxic, so we will use a straw to drink from it.”

[@maximthemagnificent]

Not that it matters, but if anyone's interested an abbreviation formed by first letters in a phrase that makes a pronounceable word is an acronym (e.g. RADAR), if it's not it's called an initialism (e.g. FYI).

[@oneheadlight8000]

Haven’t watched yet, but in our testing.. vapor smoothed MJF nylon is the best waterproofing we have witnessed

[@paulrossjones2234]

hi, great video. What filament are you printing with? cheers Paul

[@surmur]

The vase printing method made pretty waterproof walls even it was only 1 wall thick. It leaked a bit, few droplets on walls if left for hours but it stopped leaking

[@gameeverydaygamer3527]

these are the only ones that you should use a logitech controler for

[@Pinkiewithmint101]

Bro predicted ocean gate implosion incident 💀

[@ikilyou1b]

no

[@Pinkiewithmint101]

its true tho

[@Joshua_Ramey]

He did not predict it if it already happened

[@Tbugfish]

If you want to make an fdm print waterproof, maybe try electroplating it? You could coat each model with copper, nickel, aluminum, or silver.

[@Sembazuru]

I don't know how liquid tight the electroplating will be, but if it does work the weight of the metal electroplated on can be part of the ballast, requiring fewer added weights to get to neutral buoyancy.

[@acb_gamez]

You can definitely eliminate those pores by tuning your 3d printiner, jacking up the nozzle temp a little higher than usual, increasing the flow rate, and decreasing the print speed. I had to do this for something I print for my company.

[@benashbaugh5982]

Why don't you spray the surface with something like the Flexseal? It's a rubber seal that work well enough.

[@vim55k]

It tried this. The problem is that it only coates on the outside, does not penetrates

[@nkronert]

Adding some bags of desiccant on the inside should resolve the moisture issue 😉

[@Tylerz_theman]

E

[@Tylerz_theman]

E

[@mebami9682]

Did you test different filament types (e.g. PLA vs ABS)? When making a top lid for a batch reactor, I looked a bit into it and apparently you should use ABS instead of PLA when working with water, because PLA is bio-degradable. I guess it is not important for a 1 time test, but can be significant when using your model for a long time. (as a teacher, love the video btw, it's fun and shows how you do a 'simple' experiment to really test something)

[@tomcarroll6744]

Impressive work. I've been around a long time and you guys are OK. Keep going.

[@xaly79]

The thumbnail is the titan gate sub

[@Swiss_Person]

I too love nylon but I alos love this video Really really Awesome! Keep it up :D

[@MrKiar1611]

from my pov, only abs-like and the Siraya Tech BLU (the one in video) are kind of usable for mechanical purpose while stay with relatively cheap price. Otherwise, I would have gone for esun PA100 nylon/esun hard tough/Phrozen Onyx series for something as critical like this. Also, those UV resin perform differently over time even without sunlight shining on it. I usually let it dry for a few days instead of using UV cure station. anti UV clear paint is another trick to stop its curing over time. Although UV light can cure the resin, it is still polymer which can be break down by UV light. So when curing as thin as 0.8mm/1mm, you can easily over cure some part of it and causing small cracks(since the UV light isn't spread evenly on your print), hence, brittleness.

[@Nonde-w8l]

Behind the window was a reflection that only instilled fear.

[@Izayoink_Saccuy]

Now its time for the test of *WILL IT IMPLODE?*

[@MRSPORTYTRUCKER]

Why dont you just put expoxy on the outside of the print then use sealant on the joints Or coating FDM prints with printer resin

[@SarmiTube]

can you help me find some guide related to this water enclosure that you put your part in it ?

[@glennboyd939]

Try stopping each layer and spraying with hair spray or a mist of super glue. Hairspray will fill the gaps, superglue will liquify the surface, 2 paths to choose.

[@jnavjnav3802]

Another solution that works is painting the outer surface with resin!

[@victortitov1740]

yea, that's what i do for my speaker enclosures. I was never able to achieve perfect airtightness though, it always leaks very slowly (for speakers it's actually a good thing).

[@AlexvrbX]

if you're going to use an o-ring, use an actual o-ring and not a glued one... and make round indentations on both surfaces, tight fit (if you have to force the rubber in ever so slightly that's not necessarily a bad thing) that was the o-ring has more surface area to seal against and it's unable to shift around. A flat seal might be even better, but only if you can apply LOTS of pressure spread evenly across the entire perimeter. Speaking of which... more bolts = less (or more even) distortion = more sealing power.

[@MrTryice]

Incredible video !

[@KeozFPV]

Ok, now i need to buy this dichtel for my outside encloses!

[@JayTheDev-tc7ue]

If you had a pressure chamber, could you seal the pores by forcing resin in? Not that it might not be wasteful, but if you replicate some of the pressure it would experience under the water, and force resin into those same pores would that make it possible to achieve a greater quality of water proofing? Asking as I am also working on some aquatic drone ideas.

[@wls18]

Could you give me some advice or a video on how to build the device you use to test the waterproofness of prints it would help me a lot for school

[@TheDroneOperator.]

13:09 nope, not unless it used to have a hole that's been plugged. SLS and the others use powder sintered in layers. There is no way of avoiding the trapped powder in a fully enclosed print. It takes high pressure air and some holes to remove the inners.

[@THE_BARNABY-GUY]

I like the thumbnale i wonder if it happened in real life ?

[@mishtrong]

Me with an SLA printer: I am waterproof!

[@timothytilley5594]

Did the Dictol (or whatever you call it) increase the strength of the part, as well as water proof it? Did you test that? I’m excited to try that.

[@OAikoT]

How did you install the O-rings? This is the crucial part. Remember its about which way they are squished that makes them work properly.

[@dustin7970]

What if you put the dichtol in the pressure chamber with the printer? That way im guessing you force it into even more cracks

[@dalivanwyngarden3204]

If the pressure doesn‘t matter thaaat much you can just dip the printed parts in some resin or even coat it from the inside as well.

[@SadIsOut]

Ocean gate’s brother 💀