Making a backpack: sewing water bottle pockets

I show you how to make a pleated water bottle pocket with an elastic opening for your backpack or other project.

[@HeidiandFranny]

I liked the use of needle nosed pliers to pull true the elastic. Very original. Heidi

[@carish1452]

I used to use locking hemostats leftover from a surgery my dad had. You don't have to be gutsy enough to ask the doctor to keep them like he did though. Amazon has them for $5 now 🤣

[@JamieNotLamie]

I like how you used a thick fabric, other videos I watched had thin mesh and I think I like a bit more insulation. Going to pimp my 5 yr olds backpack out for her first yr in kindergarten!

[@metakchik]

Thank you for a clear, fluff free tutorial. This is what I worked out in my head, but I am such a visual persona and need to see something like this to confirm and reduce the time It was going to take to work from scratch.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks for watching!

[@chrishayden9599]

Thank you for all your great tutorials.

[@MizoreWannabe]

*Me, a woman, watching a video, for men*: Heheheheheh

[@thejasonofalltrades]

For the record, my videos are not "for" men. They're intended to encourage men who might be interested in sewing, an overwhelmingly female-oriented hobby. Everyone is welcome here. Thanks for watching!

[@wallflora]

@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for clarifying! i love the bags

[@Tapiocamilktea]

Nice! How did you then sew it onto the side panel? It looks like the pocket fabric is wider than the side panel. How did you sew it on so perfectly?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks! Actually, in the video it's just clipped in with binder clips for now, as there is a lot of work left to do before I actually sew the pack together. But it will all be sewn with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance and will look pretty much as it does clipped together. The bottle pocket is just laid on top of the side panel and sewn in the side-panel-to-front-panel, side-panel-to-bottom-panel and side-panel-to-back-panel seams. Hopefully I can shoot a video on the assembly process to make that clearer. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@enkoos]

@@thejasonofalltrades I have the same question. Try to figure it out by myself, and still error. Hopefully you have video how to assembly it. Thanks.

[@KuntryRD]

Needle nose pliers: LOVE IT!

[@thejasonofalltrades]

In a recent project, I used a surgical clamp (hemostat) for this step, and it worked even better, since it can be locked onto the end of the elastic. But needle nose pliers work great, too. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@KuntryRD]

@@thejasonofalltrades I have a hemostat in my fishing stuff; thanks much!

[@brucecanny]

Thanks for the video. I wished you had shown how to attach to the bag, kind of a critical part. Did you sew hidden seems on one or more sides or bottom? Also Better to cut your elastic after you sew. Much easier to handle and no need for fishing and all other sewing is accomplished on flat fabric.. Lastly, adding the Elastic should be the last step and reinforcement stitching should be at the same time as securing the elastic.

[@triciaediale7105]

Thank you

[@ginger9475]

Very helpful.

[@dangerouskilldozer]

Awesome Video I am going to sew a couple of bottle pockets to my Camelbak Mil-spec H.A.W.G now, I have been holding bottles on the side with a carabiner for too long! Thank you Jason!

[@esavirtanen6418]

Just found your channel. Want a clear tutorial, this is how it's done! Thanks

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thank you so much!

[@zentinele]

thanks for great video I wonder how to build that waterpocket into main body of the bag? Do you have any video of that process?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I don't yet have video to post of that part of the process. I'm in the planning stages of a full backpack build video, so stay tuned! In the meantime - there are numerous ways to attach the bottle holder to a pack. The method I'm using on the pack in this video is to sew the edges of the bottle holder into the seams between the side panel and the front and back panels. The bottle holder fabric just gets sandwiched between the other pieces, then sewn all as one. If you were adding a bottle holder to an existing pack using this method, you would seam rip those seams open and trap the bottle holder fabric in the seams. This is one of those "easier to show than tell" things, but it's very simple to do. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!

[@moomoo9920]

Do you think its a good idea to use fabric glue. Or it want be syrong enough? I think im gone try.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I don't have much experience with fabric glues, but I would be very surprised if it was strong enough for this application. If you try it, let us know your results!

[@franciscosoto1773]

which is better to sew backpacks on the sailright walking foot or the industrial singer?

[@enkoos]

I kept watching this video but I can't figure out how to attach the side pocket into the side. How to make the bottom shape? Is there anyway you can make video for attaching the side pocket? Thank you Evia

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi, It's a little hard to describe in words, but check out my video on "the manliest yoga bag." The pocket on that is similar and shows how it is attached in greater detail. I hope that helps!

[@MyWorldInDisorder]

Great video, exactly what I was looking for. Off topic question, but do you ever work with lightweight fabrics. I was trying to sew with some 1.2 oz Robic fabric and had nothing but headaches, from the thread bunching up underneath to the fabric being sucked into the machine. Ruined 30 bucks worth of fabric. Thanks!

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! I've worked quite a bit with 1.1 oz Silnylon and other similar fabrics (I haven't tried Robic, though). I made my DIY hammock, under quilt, top quilt and tarp, and I think I used four different machines over the years working on those projects. I have a few suggestions that might help. If your machine has multiple needle plates (the metal - depending on the age of your machine - plate the needle passes through on the bed of the machine), and if one of them is straight-stitch only, switch to that. (If your machine is not capable of zig-zag, you already have this in place.) The hole the needle passes through must be larger for zig-zag, and lighter fabrics can get "sucked" down into the hole, so switching to a straight-stitch plate might help. I have a 1936 Singer Featherweight that is my go-to machine for lightweight fabrics. If your machine has an adjustment for the presser foot pressure, reducing that pressure might help. Generally, you want to select your thread to work with your fabric, and your needle to work with your thread, so if you aren't sure you were using the right fabric/thread/needle combo, that might be a place to make changes, too. What kind of machine are you using? (And what are you making?)

[@MyWorldInDisorder]

thejasonofalltrades it's a Kenmore 20 15358. Probably a real basic machine, something my wife already had. I've got Guttermann polyester thread and am using Singer titanium 90/14 needles. I'm not sure at all about the metal plate, I haven't touched it, it has measurements and little teeth that grab and move back. The presser foot I think is just a straight stitch one. Mainly where I had failure was at the ends or beginning, the fabric would get pulled into the machine. It would also fail sometimes when I would do a lock stitch, everything would bind up. Today I was messing around with some cheap tarp fabric I had and the thread snapped a handful of times. No rhyme or reason. I'd do a real nice stitch and then I'd notice I was just punching holes. I'm sure it's something with the operator. I always spin the wheel towards me, I always sink the needle holding the thread before starting, I don't mess with the tension, it's at 5 (of 9). The pattern I use is the straight middle stitch and the length I do is usually around 3. It goes from 0 to 4 and then a long line then it reads 'L'. I was trying to make a hammock, which shouldn't be too difficult, rolled hemms and create a channel. I've tried to make a few things, some turn out okay, most end up in the trash lol. Thanks!

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I made my hammock on a 1987 Kenmore. Since then I've moved on to a bunch of pre-1970 machines (with the exception of the Sailrite and an industrial Singer). Honestly, I think machines from pre-1970s just work better in every way, and might make your sewing life more pleasant. Check your local thrift stores, I've bought several machines for $20 or less, and they're great. That said, don't be afraid to play with tension (especially if things are going badly, since you are unlikely to make them worse!). If the machine has a manual (likely available online if you don't have it), READ IT. There is a surprising amount of helpful information in some sewing machine manuals. It might not be a terrible idea to see if there is a sewing machine repair shop in your area (most large fabric stores will have someone they contract with) and have your machine checked - as they age, sharp points can develop on metal-to-metal contact points that can tear thread. Whatever you do - DON'T give up. The first projects I did were pretty bad, and there were lots of frustrations (go watch some of my earliest videos if you'd like a laugh). If I tried to write the simplest line of code I'd pull my eyeballs out, but it's just a matter of learning. My email address is in the "about" section of my channel. Feel free to email me if you have other questions or if I can help. Sleeping in a hammock you made yourself is one of the most satisfying experiences ever :)

[@MyWorldInDisorder]

Code is simple, plus if you mess something up, you can just erase and fix it, that's hard to do when dealing with scissors, rotary cutter and fabric hehe. I will do just that! I'll check the thrift shops and see if I can find an older machine. Sleeping in a hammock period is satisfying, can only imagine what sleeping in one I made would be like. Fortunately I have a couple months of bugs until they die off (in Arkansas) so I have time to learn. Thanks!

[@thejasonofalltrades]

LOL My Dad lived near Ft. Smith, I know the ticks there intimately ....

[@raymundp7752]

hi, which thread do you typically use for projects like these? just got an Elpar Industrial Sewing machine, and starting some small projects. thanks.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I pretty much exclusively use nylon thread in size 69 (sometimes labelled V69). Make sure you get the right size needle for your thread, too (your machine manual should explain this). Thanks for your question, and good luck with your projects!

[@timothythomas1345]

How many yards of dernier did it take to make the pack .

[@thejasonofalltrades]

I have a giant roll of this fabric, and a bad habit of not paying the slightest attention to how much of it I use (I got it embarrassingly cheap). Rough guess, a yard would probably do for the outer layer, and an additional yard of fabric (either the same or contrasting) for the inside. The exterior of this pack is 1650-denier ballistic nylon (I think, I don't have a label to accurately identify it) with 200-denier nylon for the interior. There is a foam padding (about 1/4" thick) in the back and the straps. This one will have two side-release buckles, plus two additional female buckles that will store the straps when not in use. There are two adjusting buckles called "ladder locks" on the straps. And there's some large strips of velcro. I'll shoot a video of the pack when it's done to cover all of the details. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@timothythomas1345]

I found a place for nylon strapping and buckles and such .. It is called Strapworks.com . They have a newer buckle I am thinking of useing on a belt and or or rifle sling . It is a magnetic clip. Strapworks calls it the FIDLOCK . They have a you tube channel . I can see in the recommendations after watching the fidlock video . That a couple companies have licensed it or used it in their products . A motorcycle helmet is one . I think the magnetic buckle is ideal for anything one needs to get to fast and or often . Anyway I thought I would share that source with you if you didn't know of them .

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks for the info! I buy from Strapworks all the time, but I hadn't seen that buckle before, very interesting!

[@timothythomas1345]

search You Tube for Fidlock Buckle . Strapworks has a you tube channel . You have got to see the characters they have in their video's . Reminds me of the Lone Gunmen from the xfiles . You have a guy called strapworks phil and their are 2 other guys that do videos .

[@butterflynoodles]

You sew bro?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

A little .... :)

[@theflamingpi]

Well done! I'm going to be sending an email your way later tonight*. Hopefully it will meet you well. *possibly tomorrow

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks! I look forward to it, whenever it finds me!

[@15430Eve]

Why wouldn't you just use pins lol

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi, I almost never use pins, for a few reasons. One, because most of the fabrics I use are quite heavy, thick or otherwise hard to shove a pin through, pins don't usually work well for me - they tend to bend a lot. Two, for the same reason, I end up poking myself in the finger with them. Three, there are so many other methods that I find work for me - binder clips, basting tape, staples - that pins just aren't even a thing for me. I have a bunch, and I honestly can't remember the last time I used them. Four, sometimes I need to "pin" a bag together inside out (as it would be sewn) and then turn it right-side-out to check the fit. Doing that with pins is like wrestling a porcupine, plus the pins tend to pull out. If you haven't figured it out, I don't like using pins :) Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@TeamFashionAndLove]

Haha got em! go off on her jason

[@brucecanny]

@@thejasonofalltrades I would also like to add that pin holes are not water proof.

[@Yabbagabbagool]

i cant wait to guzzle water from the freshly made man pocket on my bag (I am making the pocket i promise)

[@franciscosoto1773]

which is better to sew backpacks on the sailright walking foot or the industrial singer?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Between the Sailrite and the Singer 20-33 that I have, hands down the Sailrite. The walking foot makes all the difference. The Singer is capable of higher speeds, but it has trouble feeding stuff that the Sailrite laughs at.

[@franciscosoto1773]

when you sew with the singer 20-33 do you have to feed the material carefully? Did you make a video on installing zippers? Where do you recommend on buying heavy duty zippers?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

The 20-33 feeds lighter materials/fewer layers very well, but when it runs into thick seams it sometimes needs help. It's really intended to do commercial apparel construction, not heavy Cordura stuff. I haven't yet made a video specifically on zippers - I am planning one - but you might check out my easy zipper pouch project video, there's some good zipper info in it. The toiletry bag video I made a couple of months ago has some good stuff, too. I bought a ridiculous amount of zipper from someone on Craigslist, so I won't be needing zipper for a long time (unless I need other colors). I have bought some from Rockywoods Fabrics, and as always I was happy with what I got. If you're making a backpack or something like that, I like YKK #8 continuous metal coil zipper.

[@MarioOwnsAl1]

what if your sewing the pocket to a backpack thats already made, there really isn't a nice or even conceivable way to sew the pocket to the backpack with a sewing machine

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi, So yeah, if you want to do this to an existing backpack, you pretty much have to take it apart to do it (if you watch my "retrofitting a pocket on a backpack" video, it kind of shows how this would go). This would be a lot of work, but if the pack is important to you, and you REALLY want a bottle pocket .... A cylinder-arm or post industrial machine might be able to reach inside to do it without disassembly of the pack, depending on the pack. Also depending on the pack, and the machine, a free-arm domestic machine might even be able to do it. With any of these options, the stitches would show through the lining in the interior (if any), which may or may not matter. I hope that helps. If you have a pack you are considering doing this too, you're welcome to email me, maybe send a pic or two and I might be able to give you an idea about options. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

[@chrishayden9599]

I am a girl hope you dont mind making my son inlaw a camping backpack.

[@jeniferalvarez2914]

So helpful! How much shorter was the elastic than the actual fabric?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi, The elastic is about the same length as the width of the panel the pocket is sewn to. The dimensions will vary depending on your pack, and how big of a bottle you may want to carry. I have a tutorial series on making a rolltop backpack that covers the dimensions of a pocket like this, you might want to look for that! Thanks for watching!

[@cigjvf]

I know this was like 6 years ago but do you have a list of all the materials that you used ?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi! If you're asking about the whole pack, I don't, but I did a multi-part tutorial a few years ago on constructing a similar backpack that has a complete rundown of the materials (not the same materials as this pack, but you can substitute whatever fabric you prefer). Here is the episode in which I cover the materials - kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5m7fJSDnb93a7c

[@9catlover]

i love your sewing machine

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Thanks! It's a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 if you want to learn more about it. It's a great machine!

[@franciscosoto1773]

is that the sailright that they gave you?

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Yes it is.

[@howardhardy1992]

Jason, I have greatly enjoyed watching your videos the last couple of days. And thanks for the product reviews. I don't currently have a sewing machine but it seems I have often wished I had one. It got serious two days ago. I purchased a canvas tarp to use secured from the back of my truck for shade and protection from rain. I currently have a 6x8 but it's no good for heavy wind driven rains so purchased a bigger 10x12. Added a couple grommets which failed during the install process. So I thought I just need to reinforce the tarp. Didn't want to sew it by hand and there is nobody in this part of the country who does that kind of work. Then the quest for a good sewing machine began. After a long day of research, including watching several of your videos, I have decided to purchase one of the sailrite machines. Ordering it tomorrow. I am a retired firefighter and a carpenter before that career. My grandfather was a tailor so I think there's a little bit of that in my blood. In my retirement I hunt, whitewater raft and fish. So lots of gear and it always needs repairs or improvements. Looking forward to learning how to sew and maybe I can even make a little money repairing or modifying heavy duty stuff for others.

[@thejasonofalltrades]

Hi Howard! Thanks so much for sharing this - this is why I started making videos! If you have a background in carpentry, you'll have no problem adapting to sewing (I was a welder for 10 years, and there is a lot of crossover between welding and sewing, as there is carpentry and sewing). Enjoy the Sailrite, and if you have questions don't hesitate to get in touch with me. Thanks for your service!