Making a Commando Dagger PART 1

Custom Knife Making: The Commando Dagger
Thank you for joining me on my channel. Today, we will be making a Commando Dagger, inspired by the iconic World War 2 British Fairburn Sykes dagger. I made this knife using 5mm Bohler K460 steel for the blade, 3mm 1070 steel for the guard, 12mm 5160 round steel for the pommel and stacked leather for the handle. Feel free to use whatever you have available or prefer. Don’t forget to like and subscribe.
Check out PART 2 here: • Making a Commando Dagg...
01:00 Cutting the profile
04:07 Grinding the bevels
07:30 The heat treatment
08:33 Cleaning the blade
09:26 Cutting the guard
12:05 Shaping the tang
14:14 Drilling and shaping the guard
DISCLAIMER:
The information provided on this channel is for entertainment purposes only. Any action you as the viewer takes upon the information on this channel is strictly at your own risk, and Zeeman Knives will not be liable for any losses, damages, or personal injuries in connection with the use of this content (including losses, damages, or injuries sustained while you were trying to emulate the actions and projects on this channel).
Always wear the appropriate safety clothing.

[@TheGarner77]

Love the attention to detail

[@zeemanknives]

Thank you!

[@grahambarber2766]

A Commando dagger made in the spiritual home of the original Kommandos 👍 All the best from a former Royal Marine Commando 🇬🇧 🗡

[@zeemanknives]

Thank you for watching. Yes, the roots of the Kommando's stretches far into South African history.

[@rayellgeral9065]

Hi from a fellow South African, your videos have helped me tremendously, I am only on my 3rd knife... Please upload more!

[@zeemanknives]

Pleased to meet you. Glad you found my content useful. All the best with your knife making.

[@aah4632]

Super nice!

[@zeemanknives]

Thank you!

[@JK-pk1ez]

Can you do a video on how to sharpen blades with stones etc? The techniques etc

[@edharker5775]

Amazing, as usual. Nice work

[@zeemanknives]

Thank you!

[@tyleringle268]

I remember you said you were going to make the fairbane Sykes fighting knife!

[@zeemanknives]

Yes, it took me long enough. So many projects i want to film still.

[@wadesaunders583]

Hi sir. thanks for the video. appreciate your videos Would it be possible to get the knife dimensions?

[@zeemanknives]

The blade length is 177mm, the tang is 113mm, plus the added pommel of about 20mm. The blade width is 26mm at the widest point. The guard is oval shaped with a 50x15mm dimension.

[@tyleringle268]

Got a question what apps do you use to add music to your video?

[@zeemanknives]

I use Adobe Premier Pro for all my video editing, including adding music.

[@rastafara81]

Very good work👍!

[@zeemanknives]

Thank you!

[@AA-69]

Really No need for two parts, i gave uo at 14 minutes !.. Makes No sence to cut tge gaurd out before drilling All the holes in it first surely ?!?!

[@zeemanknives]

The two parts are only for keeping the duration of the videos shorter. The drilling of the holes before or after shaping the guard really makes no difference to me. Some knife makers prefer drilling the holes first...i prefer shaping first then drilling the holes center to the shape.

[@nebojsanesic5326]

You annealed it only 4 times before quench?!? Commando knives need at least 12 annealing cycles before the quench!!! Amateur!

[@zeemanknives]

Are you referring to "Annealing" or "Normalising"?. It is two different processes with different purposes. I am "Normalising" the blade, not "Annealing" it.

[@nebojsanesic5326]

@@zeemanknives Daaam...I messed up the joke. Pardon me bud, it was 4h. in the morning when I wrote it. I meant "normalizing". Anyways, done wright (just above the quenching temp.) once is sufficient. Absolutely sufficient. Steel looses carbon trough thermal cycling.

[@zeemanknives]

@@nebojsanesic5326 That is one of those subjects where each bladesmith has their own way of doing things...so many debates doing the rounds. I normalise my blades three times, starting with the highest temperature first (Just above critical temp), and letting it air-cool, then reducing the temp the second time, then reducing it even further again the third time. (Its difficult to show the entire process on camera for various reasons) but I get good consistent results that way. Like I always say, this works for me...I am a results driven person. It is definitely not the only the way to do it, and if there is a better way, then please share.

[@nebojsanesic5326]

@@zeemanknives It's not what they thought me in the school. There are new kinds of steel being made all the time and each one has it's own specifications how it should be worked (easy to find on the net). So it would be irresponsinble to claim that one process fits them all. But generally speaking ONE normalizing cycle on 20-25'C above the quenching heat is how it's done. But even when working with steels that require multiple normalizing cycles (albeit rare) you should ALWAYS start with the lower temp. and finish with the higher! Normalizing is process of REDUCING the GRAIN. The grater the heat-the smaller the grain (and you want it small before the quench). By finishing with the lower heat you are enlarging it and thus nullifying your previous work. But do not believe me, or the guys telling you different-do your own research. You will find that what I just wrote you is what's written in the books, and done properly the result with also show it. Take care bud and GL!