Making a faux (fake) Roman shade? Watch this first!

This video covers ring spacing, sewing methods, quick tips and where to purchase supplies you will need!
Amazon is an affiliate link and some of the proceeds goes towards our channel however it does not cost you a penny more!
Visit my Amazon store here: www.amazon.com...

[@juadonna]

Greetings from Florida! Thank you So Much for this follow-up video! I have been stalled on my ginormous faux Roman Shade (75" wide) make for at least 4 years! I will now be able to finish it and my extremely patient husband will be so pleased! Not to mention the relief I will feel!

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Greetings from upstate NY! Im sure it is going to look awesome when your finished!

[@marianmalone9523]

Thank you so much. I see for an interior designer and have made these but this takes so much of the guess work out and makes making these so much easier.

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

I’m glad this was helpful, thanks for dropping by!!!

[@AbdaTur-fm2dv]

Thank you ❤

[@YoAug62]

Thank you for the updated video. I plan to make one for my dining room.

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Thank you for watching, good luck!!!

[@Brightviewimage]

Sir you are the best ❤

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Thank you!

[@user-sm8go5vr6c]

This is amazing!!!!!

[@aristepp680]

Hi Scott. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I need to make a shade that will result in 3 folds at 2.5 inches apart. What vertical spacing should i use? Thank you.

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Sorry I don’t have a method for this, however if you wanted more of a valance look you can make 3 separate valances 7-1/2”, 5” and 2-1/2” and sew them together at the top to make it look like on valance.

[@kjvw1261]

This is wonderful! Thank you for sharing these very informative videos. I'm hoping to make some London shades. I'm assuming the placement of the rings would be in a bit more on the left and right and 2 box pleats at the top? Any tips for placement? If an order for a London shade ever came across your desk, I'd be very interested in a video showing the difference between the 2 shades! Thanks again! I've learned so much from you!

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Hi there! A London shade for an average single window would only have pleats on the ends but if your window is 50” or wider than you need to include a center box pleat to support the width. There is also a bar sewn in above the stationary pleats to keep the shade from buckling when raising. You will also notice in every picture on the web and in magazines the shade is always 1/2 way down and never shown fully raised. This is because they look like a wrinkled mess when in the up position and depending on your material the shade may always look wrinkled from every day use! Next time I get an order for one I will make a video!

[@kjvw1261]

@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom thank you kindly for the detailed response! My intention is to make them fixed window treatments for decorative purposes as opposed to fully functional shades. Your videos are wonderful! I'm looking forward to a London shade edition!

[@suezalewski7689]

Hi Scott, What do you recommend as a weight if the width of the shade is over 72"?

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

The weight used in the video goes up to 78” (I think) but you can also use 1/4” threaded rod from Lowe’s and it goes up to 8 ft. Depending on the material you are using you may have to make a rod sleeve to cover it.

[@nancyhessler3358]

Question as a complete “newbie” how do you square fabric prior to cutting ? What if the table and cutting mats are not large or long?

[@joanlubas4973]

@@nancyhessler3358 I’m not sure if this is the most perfect way to square your fabric but what I did was to fold the fabric horizontally a small amount and match the selvages perfectly. Then finger crease the fold you just created. You might find that the width of folded piece varies-indicating that your fabric is not perfectly square. If you cut along your crease you should be pretty close to a good horizontal line. Hope this makes sense.

[@joanlubas4973]

Hello Scott. Thank you for this very helpful video. However when I attach the last two sets of rings on both of the 5 inch mark they do not drape to create another fold but rather stack upon each other, which makes since when you think about it. I found I have to decrease the ring spacing to 3 1/2 inches to make the last fold show. And this would be in line with your formula of going from 6 1/2 to 5 then my assumption of 3 1/2. That is each ring placement decreases 1 1/2 inches from the previous one not counting the first placement which is set at 4 inches from the hem. Of course this formula only works for the faux Roman Shade. Can you comment on this please.

[@joanlubas4973]

Hello Scott, Your measurements for the vertical ring spacing was absolutely spot on! Although I couldn’t wrap my mind around it, I decided to put my faith in your expertise and placed my rings vertically just as you recommended. The faux shades came out PERFECTLY. I’m the kind of person who likes to understand why things works out and after I put the shades together I realized that there is a ‘hang’ factor involved. Your spacing took that into account. Thank you again for this very informative video.

[@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom]

Hi there! So sorry for the late reply! The only reasons I can think this formula didn’t work for you is if you used very small rings or you didn’t use the clip rings like I show and just tied the rings together which would not allow for the rings to relax. One of the benefits to clip rings is you can use additional ones as spacers to separate the rows if necessary. We also use thermal insulated lining on the back which adds body and creates a softer fold. I’m sorry it didn’t work out for you!

[@aristepp680]

I'm having the same problem. Did you figure it out?

[@jaynepolvere419]

@@Factorydirectdesignersworkroom same issue here as well ... goes right until the (2) 5" rings...