Making a Lathe Ways Dial Indicator Holder

My lathe does not have a digital readout, so I've been wanting to set up a 2" dial indicator to allow precise carriage movement measurement. For the purposes I need I think this will work just fine. If you have an import lathe and think it might be useful to you too, let me know and I can send you a copy of the plans.
As always, thanks for watching and for all your support!

[@larryshaw796]

I'm glad someone is out there that doesn't feel crippled without a dro

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Well, it's not that I wouldn't use one if it was there, but can't justify the cost right now. I got to use nice DRO systems during my machining certificate program at the trade school and will admit that they are nice to have. For now dials and indicators suffice. Thanks for joining in!

[@gordonwickstrand2598]

Hello from Cold Lake, I seem to be in the same position as you, buildings tools used to build other tools and this tool is something I need to add to my ever growing list of things to do. Really appreciate you sharing your experiences and knowledge.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi Gordon, this sort of thing, as well as a lot of stuff I do, is all part of what we as hobbyists do as shop tool building. We all have similar needs, just approach them in different ways depending on the materials and equipment we all have at our disposal. I'm glad you like what's happening on the channel, hopefully the stuff yet to be done is interesting as well. And don't be a stranger, if you're ever headed to the Edmonton area with a bit of time to kill then feel free to give me a shout. Cold Lake isn't that far from here, it's good to know the locals with like minds.

[@ChrisB257]

Hi Everett - Glad you got a bit of shop time. No luck here right now as winter and low temps just drag on and on. Until things warm a bit just no use even trying to heat my shop, not to mention the expense if done all the time. That was a very nice way to use a relatively small piece of Al - turned out a super addition to the lathe. :)

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! I think we all have a bit of packrat in us for small bits that might be useful "someday." Would have liked to use a mag-back type indicator but the shape of the rails on this lathe doesn't work as well with them as some of the bigger machines I've used. That and the mag-back would cost money, the price was right on this one!Yeah, sounds like the recent weather in the Eastern states has been less than pleasant of late, hopefully it smartens up soon so you can use the shop again.

[@Jwil3743]

Thanks for the vid, Everett! I like the preload idea with the spring tension. As an option, an additional fearure could be a third hole drilled/tapped with some UNF thread and a knob or stud with a wing nut between your existing holes. That way you could jam the existing wave/lock washer bolts at a desired preload for ease of movement, and would also have an easy access locking system to secure the sliding indicator holder without a tool. And it woul still be loose enough to allow it to slide in case the carriage crashes into the indicator like you already noted as a design feature. Thanks again, looking forward to more shaper work!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks James, I had a number of ideas but this was the easiest for what I needed at the time. It still works, and yes I have forgotten it in place and pushed the carriage into it. The indicator is still working thanks to that ability to slide under higher pushing pressure. I've got a lot more to do on the shaper but getting shop time over the last couple weeks has been a challenge so progress has been slow. I really do want it running but don't want to cut too many corners on it.

[@BillyTpower]

Hello from Saskatoon, just found your channel, looks like we have similar equipment so i'm looking forward to watching more vids.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for stopping by! Been to Saskatoon a number of times for product training when I still worked for a Chrysler dealer. I quite enjoy the city, it's one of my favorite places in Saskatchewan. There are a few shop-made equipment projects I've drawn up and have material for but have to get through the list of jobs that friends and the better half need done first, lol. Hopefully you find it interesting as we all share ideas in the KZbin hobby community.

[@tompuckett9937]

Yours really great machinist Everett!!! Always enjoy all your videos!! Your sooooo easy going guy! Thanks so much!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Tom, but I am really just a hobbyist when it comes to machining. Glad you like the videos so far, hopefully they continue to be interesting for you!

[@JourneymanRandy]

Nice work Everett. Its rewarding to make your own tools. Take care

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! It's partly the challenge and partly trying to keep the hobby affordable. We're in the same boat, lol.

[@skipgoryews1356]

Very smooth job ! Looks like you are at ease moving around your machines . Very good content, this is the first time visit , I know I will enjoy your past projects good luck ! Skip

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Skip, I'm glad you're finding what I get up to interesting. Now that I have a shop again there are some things going on again, in fact there are 3 videos worth of footage that is in the middle of editing. Biggest thing is finding time around kids, lol!

[@johnathonmullis4234]

I have a Taiwan made 12x36 with the Norton gear box. Grizzly and precision matthews both have similar models as does Enco and a hundred other companies. Darn decent machines and great for imperial threading. Who needs a dro with your indicator holder? I’m gonna make one of these for sure. Thank you. Good stuff.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

These 12x36 lathes seem to be ubiquitous, both of Taiwanese and Chinese mainland construction. I suppose like anything one gets what one pays for, mine is mainland and needed a few tweaks, with some work still needed. I would still like DRO at some point but the indicator has been very handy thus far. Glad you liked the video, the idea is by no means original but this is how I made it work in my situation with my particular scrap pieces, lol.

[@Gauge1LiveSteam]

Great video. I'm going to do this as soon as I get my shop set back up. And set up a baby crib in the shop. My dad did.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Robert, the next step is making a carriage stop using the same basic design but incorporating a surplus metric micrometer head. As for my son, he's 4 now so hopefully once the new shop is set up I can set him up with his own work bench.

[@PhaseConverterampV]

Thanks for sharing plans. You do a lot of milling with hss EM’s , just cutting on the bttm 1/16 for example. I have a great R8 face mill with 3 carbide inserts. It’s 1.25 dia with 3 triangle inserts. It’s a good option if you are taking a lot of light face cuts like in many of your projects. I’d recommend getting one. I can send u the link if you are interested. It saves your EM’s big time, plus you can run it at 1000-1500 rpm.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I have a 3" face mill that I got from eBay, but save that one for really hogging aluminum as the machine isn't super rigid and it has 7 inserts so it gets pricey to refill with fresh carbide. Seen those smaller ones, and have wondered how they fare on a mill-drill, I think I will get one on your suggestion next time I have some hobby money to spare. As for the plans I make, they are usually made to get what I need from the scrap I have, just glad if others can make use of them! Thanks for coming by again, I do take good suggestions to heart.

[@NathanielIten]

Hello from Russia! And thanks for making a special mention for us and our machines :)

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hello Nathaniel! I have always wanted to visit Russia, hope that happens some day. My grandmother was Russian, and I was very close to her. As it is I have some projects planned (time permitting) to make an ochag for my wok (it's almost like a kazan) and a mangal for my shampur skewers so I cna make shashlik . . . I am very impressed by what the Russian and Ukrainian hobby machinists make as you all have different parts and pieces to start with. And for what it's worth I'd love to have an old Stanko lathe as they are built like tanks! Hope you're doing well. (and if you have any good plov or shashlik recipes, by all means please share, thanks!)

[@NathanielIten]

@@EverettsWorkshop ah, that's a surprise, and a pleasant one :) I'm from the Pacific coast part of Russia, next door to Japan, China and both Koreas, so wok is known to me just as good as the shashlik and shawarma :) Doing reasonably well with my DIY alum. foundry and recently purchased not-so-mini 28x70 cm (11x27 inch) chinese lathe, but it needs a full disassembly, inspection and some improvements. Thanks, and I'm sure going to visit my grandma for the plov recipe, as she grew up and spend quite a period of her life in Tashkent and still knows some things. Have a nice day!

[@surfcitygenecarrothersabec7634]

Great video I just stumbled on... I'll make one for my lathe next. Tried to read your print but the focus was not good enough but I'll make mine work. I see some more I'll have to watch as well.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hi, thanks for the kind words! Sorry for the late reply, life's been crazy this year. I'll gladly send you my drawing if you like, just email me at [e-mail] and you can have a copy. I sized my block and parts for what scrap I had on hand but the vee dimension should fit most import lathes about the same size as mine.

[@charruauno386]

Thank you for sharing, good design and video, you are a good person, take care of your son and have a good day.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! Hope the video was of use to you!

[@charruauno386]

@@EverettsWorkshop yes the video was good, however, I do not have a mill so for now I can't make one for my use, oh well, in the future.Have a nice day.

[@tectalabyss]

Like your channel. I Liked,Shared and added to Playlists. All my best to you and yours. Bobby

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you! All the best for you as well!

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great work. Thank you

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks again Donald!

[@markgrevatt4867]

Enjoying your videos I've subscribed 👍👍👍

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Cool, glad you enjoy them so far, hopefully the upcoming stuff is enjoyable too. Thanks for coming by!

[@stanjarmolowicz]

very cool idea ..thank you for sharing ..i start to make my own now

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you, but I can't claim original credit for this one. Now I see I need to make a hard stop for the left, lol

[@stanjarmolowicz]

@@EverettsWorkshop That's okay ..few inventions on the planet is original 90% is repetition sometime of ancient inventions . But you are shearing and helping the other enthusiastic machinists . Please check my website ...i'm not machinist but that field is one of my exiting avenues . stanislawcollection.com

[@Georges-MILLION]

Bon boulot ! Good job !

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Merçi! Ce n'est pas une idée originale, mais ça marche pour moi.

[@pierresgarage2687]

One of the bigger challenge in a home shop, making our own tools in order to keep the hobby afordable... The suggested improvement on this tool is to use some shoulder bolts with a knurled or whatever head to eliminate the need of a key to tighten to the ways. I know it never seems to end, there is lways a new tool or improvement to be done, but, this the fun part of the workshop... ;)

[@EverettsWorkshop]

The home built tool challenge is part of the fun of it, that's for sure. As a kid I saw my Dad improvise all sorts of cool stuff to fix machinery and I was always fascinated by it. And I agree, knurled clamp bolts would make it more convenient - I just need it to work for now but that is definitely an idea that will happen at some point.

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Or how about some studs with wing nuts. That way you can snug the holder up by hand and no need for a wrench.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

That would work too, depending on clearance to the leadscrew below it. If I find it becoming a nuisance while using it then the clamping system will get revised, figure to just try it as is for now and see how it goes.

[@jessestrum]

i,m going to make a poly v pulley and thats just what i need thanks everett

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Glad it could be of use, hope the pulley works out well!

[@alfaspiderveloce6617]

Very nice, and want to make one myself- Had you thought about drilling all the way through the large mounting block, and having two wing nuts, or knurled knobs to tighten from the top? You could leave the bolt heads at the bottom of compression plate, but be able to tighten (clamp) down the block/plate from above and not fiddling around tightening the bolts at the bottom? low profile knurled knobs on top would be better and keep you from skinning your knuckles screwing around on the bottom?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I hear what you are saying, and I want to make a work stop for the left of the carriage with a locking mechanism like you describe. The reason I used what I did for the indicator mount is that using the spring of the lock washers it's always got tension on the ways but will push aside if too much force is applied. This way if I'm absent-minded and crank into it the block slides and it doesn't damage the indicator. When I get around to making the carriage stop I will be using a more positive lock like you describe, though. Thanks for coming by!

[@jameshailey3028]

I liked your video. May I have a set of plans for this holder. Thank you.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Sorry for the late reply, just getting back into the KZbin groove after a year hiatus. By all means, if you email me at [e-mail] I'll send you a copy of what I have. Thanks for the kind words!

[@hhyhh6693]

very good vedio thank you

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you, I hope it was of use to you!

[@allendustin2837]

I would love to have the plans for you indicator holder and I would like to know the brand and where you got the dial caliper for your mill quill it drilled easy most are hard I'm a new subscriber and totally enjoy your channel thanks

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Allen, I'm glad you like what I get up to when I have time to play in the shop. Not a problem if you would like plans, just send me an email to [e-mail] so I know where to email the pdf's. As for the brand of caliper I am unsure if even has one - totally have to admit ordering that straight from China. Was expecting the jaws to be harder myself but at least in this application non-hardened parts was preferable!

[@gixerman01]

Just seen your video on this. I made one also, a little different from yours. Nice work.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! Not a unique idea, just works for what I need here. Half the fun of the hobbying is making your own gear!

[@davelewis3963]

This is great. Just getting my 10x31 old Logan back in shape. Could you send me the plans?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Sure, I can send you what I have, just shoot me an email at [e-mail] and you're welcome to a copy!

[@richardmeyer418]

Hi Everett, I would love the plans for this. How do I go about getting them, please? Thanks.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Will be in your inbox shortly! Thanks for coming by!

[@mortvid]

This problem was solved many years ago nicely. It's called a travadial. Try it you'll like it.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I would gladly use a Trav-A-Dial unit, but even the cheaper ones on eBay are hundreds of dollars. Maybe at some point I can save enough hobby budget up for a DRO system but until then this is what I have to work with. Thanks for coming by!

[@mortvid]

@@EverettsWorkshop Trav a Dial is much easier for routine tasks than a DRO. I"ve used them both. My old jet metal lathe has a travadial I paid $200 for on E bay with bracket. What you built is very cool but once you have a travadial you'll never go back. They're expensive because they are worth it. Nice vids BTW I like watching you build stuff.

[@machinist_kwt]

Nice work , can u tell me What is ur lathe model ?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! It will work for my purposes, as I cannot justify an expensive digital readout right now. The lathe is a King Canada model KC1236ML. It was made in China, and the same basic lathe is sold the world over under various brand names, so it should be able to fit a number of models.

[@Mike_S_Swift]

How can I get a copy of the drawing you made? My lathe looks to be very similar to yours. Nice video & thanks for posting

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you, I'm glad you could find the video useful! I share any of the home made tooling plans I've made to whoever wants a copy, just email me at [e-mail] and I'll send you a copy of the pdf's.

[@peterjones6945]

Is there a good reason you take such tiny depth of cut? In aluminium you could easily take mill diameter depth

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I know that they are conservative depths of cut, but sadly I've found the rigidity limits of this round column mill on a few occasions. I got spoiled using a nice big universal mill in machining classes, and with that unit I could make hay but sadly these round column units (at least this one) need a smaller bite to stay accurate. With aluminum it's a bit more forgiving than steel, but it can still be easy to push it too hard. One can always take a few more passes, but if it bites, hooks, and pulls off-cut then the project is scrap. I can see why you ask though, and it is a very fair question.

[@garyhall867]

What did you say the name of your drawing programme was please and is it a Free Programme or Paid??

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I'm using Fusion 360, the same package that Randy Richard uses. It's a free license if you're a student, hobbyist or startup company with less than $100k in sales. Not a fan of cloud-based programs but it does work. I like it, and getting more comfortable with the features with every new drawing.

[@dalejones4186]

Hi. What mill do you have? Do you like it? Thanks

[@EverettsWorkshop]

It's a Craftex brand CX-604 round column mill - not sure where you're writing from but it's the house import brand of Busy Bee Tools here in Canada. For what is in its design criteria it's ok, but I am saving up for something more like a Bridgeport clone. Won't be for a few years so I'm just thankful that I do have something to use right now. One of the biggest limitations of the round column mills is that as the head is raised and lowered as required by different operations and setups the quill center location changes because the head can rotate on the column. But yes, overall, I like it. Just have to keep within its limits.

[@dalejones4186]

Thanks for the reply. I’m in the USA. Oklahoma. I just purchased a precision Mathews PM-935. It’s a 2/3 size mill. I am just starting out and enjoy your videos for learning. Thanks.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Those are nice machines! That's the idea of what I'm saving for. I'm still learning, like all of us hobbyists, it would be cool to see some of the stuff you build too. We all come from different interest areas and backgrounds so all of our projects as hobbyists have slightly different flavors. Thanks for stopping by and joining in!

[@Larry1942Will]

Your slitting saw wobbles even worse than mine. I have a magnetic back for a cheap Chinese indicator. Quick and easy to setup for various uses. It is surprisingly accurate. My lathe has a DRO that I've never calibrated because I lack a method of accurately measuring long travels. I've used a 4" gage block as a test for that travel and have been consistently within 0.0006 on the DRO. The indicator VS the DRO is also in that same range. So I don't really have any excuses for some of my sloppy fits. About DROs: The lathe came with one but my very used mill didn't. So I bought a 3 axis Chinese DRO & installed it myself. Way more fooling around than I had expected. Again the lack of a precise way of measuring resulted in lots of time spent in trying to calibrate. The wear on the table ways and the wear on the screw meant that there were variations in travel over the full stroke. Since nothing is ever absolutely dead on, my compromises will have to do.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Yeah, we all do what we can with what we have available - I bought my lathe new, but being a cheaper import it has its quirks too. It's not as though I don't care about precision, it's just harder to repeat on some equipment, as it sounds like you know all too well. The slitting saw arbor isn't perfect, by any means, but it does work for what I need of it. I also sometimes I wonder how much of the runout is in the Chinesium slitting saw blade. Sounds like you do some hobby stuff too, don't be a stranger if you have some cool pics of projects too! Thanks for coming by!

[@davet9740]

G’Day Everett, Greetings from Australia. Great looking Carriage Stop , Thank you for the drawings. I shall make one. WD40 is an ok cutting fluid for aluminium but not much good for steel , there’s nothing in it except for some sort of solvent and some nice smelly stuff. It has very poor lubricating properties. Ordinary engine oil is better or a home brewed WD40 of 50% kerosene 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid which is a cheap and effective alternative. Again , Thank You for a beaut project Regards Dave Tointon

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Dave, I used this one as a holder for the indicator but I do plan to make one for the left side of the carriage to use as a stop, with a micrometer head mounted in it. And yeah, I generally only use WD-40 as cutting fluid on aluminum but have been trying a few other things as an experiment too.

[@stephenwagar2663]

Nice Looking Rig !!! I Have No Idea What Pierre Is Talking About But It Sounds Good . L O L Bear With Me Im Not A Machinest ( Retired Land Surveyor )

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks, and thanks for sticking around! Pierre's right - I use a 7/16" wrench to tension the clamp up using the lock washers as crude springs. Using a couple bolts with knobs would eliminate the need for the wrench. Might do that at some point, it's a good idea.

[@stephenwagar2663]

If I Had It In Front Of Me I Might Realize How It Worked , Perhaps Will Watch It Again. Some Close-Ups Would Be Nice,Best Regards From The High Desert Of New Mexico

[@stephenwagar2663]

Watched It Second Time \ I See How It Works !!! You Guys Make It Look So Easy...

[@supergeodotca]

Hi Everett. What lathe and mill are you working with? Enjoy the channel. Thanks

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thank you! It's a King Canada KC1236ML 12x36 lathe, and the mill is a Craftex CX-604 round column mill-drill. They have their quirks like any machinery does, but part of the fun of hobby machining is working around the quirks. Just thankful I get to do this stuff again!

[@supergeodotca]

Everett's Workshop thanks for the info.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

No worries, thanks for stopping by!

[@francoisconvertini4166]

tres bien bon tutto

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Merci beaucoup!

[@stevethorpe1754]

Hi. Great video informative and entertain could I have the plans. Thanks Steve in England

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks Steve, by all means you can have a copy, just email me and I can send them to you in PDF. I just made up the plan to a squared block I had on hand so you might need to adjust dimensions slightly to what you have on hand and the geometry of the lathe ways that you have. My email is [e-mail]

[@stevethorpe1754]

[e-mail] I enjoy the videos keep them coming. Many thanks Steve

[@1QuadControl]

So if you had a DRO on your lathe... you wouldn't need that. Is that correct?

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Yes, that's correct. With a DRO a person can touch off on a feature and then move over the desired amount with a good level of precision. With this setup I can get the 2" of the dial travel worth of precision measurement, which really covers most of what I've been doing so far. At some point a DRO system would be nice but I can't justify it at the moment, and some detailed work can still be done with dials - for example, Adam Booth doesn't have DRO on some of his lathes and can still hit tolerance.

[@1QuadControl]

@@EverettsWorkshop You did a nice job on the mount... pretty cool. I currently don't have a lathe... but am thinking about purchasing the Grizzly G0752Z in a few weeks from now. Have you ever used that one, or have any thoughts on it? Thanks - Tim

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks! I have not used one of those units myself, but on looking at the features stated on the Grizzly web page it looks like a reasonable little unit for a hobbyist. The integral DRO would be a plus for sure. You'll have to let us all know how you like it once you get it home and run it for a bit, others might be looking at one as well!

[@metalworksmachineshop]

This would have been a good job for the shaper.... if you had one at this time..

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I totally agree Doug - there is still a need for a carriage stop for the left side of the carriage, that is one of the projects on the list for the shaper once it's running.

[@nostromo4269]

make knobs for the mill. that would be cool

[@nostromo4269]

it causes me physical pain when I see people hand tap when they could power tap

[@EverettsWorkshop]

New knobs for the mill are on the to do list - I would like to make ball for them and currently a ball turner is in the development stage. It will happen at some point, though. Thanks for joining in!

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I have power tapped at times but had a few taps crack off doing it. Rather than sit for an hour and a half with a Dremel and diamond burr to remove the broken chunks I generally use hand force to feel how the threads are cutting. Not to say I never will power tap again, will just need to test the limits of the machines and power tapping in non-project parts first. Hopefully the other parts are interesting enough for you, thank you for sharing your thoughts!

[@lohikarhu734]

I have been using cam lock levers for this kind of application, as you can set the approximate fit by adjusting the bolts, and just flip lever to move quickly, and to clamp in place; for your application, probably one bolt/clamp would work, Lee Valley parts, like this: www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,43576,61994&p=45034 Or, for the economical among us, a camlock axle bolt from a scap bike wheel, cut to length and re-threaded... metric thread, probably ;-)

[@EverettsWorkshop]

That's a pretty good idea for holding a block, for sure! I hadn't thought of using a camlock type mechanism, to be honest. One of the reasons I wanted a spring-loaded holding mechanism is that I've forgotten it was there a few times and there's just enough clamping force to hold it when the plunger of the dial idicator is being compressed but if it bottoms out the whole block will slide and not damage the indicator. The lock washers provide just enough spring, they were cheap, and I haven't had to readjust them yet. The camlock idea is a good one, though - simple and quick to engage.

[@lohikarhu734]

@@EverettsWorkshop what works, works ;-) I wonder if one could make a kind of 'sleeve' to go over the indicator's round 'guide' part of the body, maybe just a slotted tube, slipped on over whatever part of the round part sticks out, or else, a slotted tube around the mounting part, that is clamped right along with the indicator, which would take the hit if the travel is a bridge too far?... too bad I can't put a drawing here, but I'm sure that your fertile mind 'gets it' rather readily :-)! I have to make something like this for my cross slide, since my 'Feinmechaniker' lathe has no long feed mechanism...

[@Bigwingrider1800]

should have made the screws accessible from the top...

[@EverettsWorkshop]

That is a thought, I just wanted to keep it simple. The way it's set up the lock washers on the bottom are not fully compressed but are compressed enough for keeping the block held but not held so tight that when I push the carriage into the indicator (happened many times already) it won't damage the indicator.

[@luizcarlosarrudajunior3402]

I know that I'll be burned alive, but I made mine with a 3d printer. Way easier than this. Great job however.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Hey Luiz, nothing wrong with a 3D printer, and if you made a tool that makes your life easier then the printer did what it was designed for. I'd like to get a 3D printer at some point but there are other things that are higher priority at this time. Glad you liked it, though!